Radar Detector Hard Wire Installation?

[SaratogaLefty]

I get my car back from the PPF/tint shop tomorrow and will check it out. I use the blend mount and mirror tap on all my cars. Based on looking at the rear view mirror stock the blend mount could work as you need at least 1" of stock to attach the universal mount. As far as the fuse box dunno. I am having the service techs coming to the house this Friday and will pick their brain at that time and will report back. There has to be a way to do this. Unless, there just is no ignition wire which is hard to believe, my Tesla has even one. Worst case, I drag a wire from the rear 12 volt socket.

You don’t have to use the rear socket if you get the usb to cig lighter socket connection and just use the usb slot in the front console

 

[lwong]

That is what I am trying to avoid

 

[ARamsdale]

Currently have a PS2 with rear-view mirror taps for an Escort 360, so fairly familiar with the taps, voltage, and what to check without tripping the car. I'll have a look when mine arrives and see if there are any that work...

 

[lwong]

Got my Uniden R7 today and it works just fine thru the windshield using the usb to cig plug. Just gotta figure out how to hard wire it. BUT just remembered we have no headliner to hide the hard wire.

 

[bobofat]

Got my Uniden R7 today and it works just fine thru the windshield using the usb to cig plug. Just gotta figure out how to hard wire it. BUT just remembered we have no headliner to hide the hard wire.

did you end up getting a blend mount? If so, which model did you go for?

 

[lwong]

I did not. No place to hide the wire i.e. no headliner.

 

[Electrified]

We know there is 12 VDC in the mirror enclosure, and it will be easy enough to figure it out with a meter; my question is the removal of the plastic housing as I don't just want to start tugging and yanking, and then end up breaking the damn thing, does anyone have the technique/procedure to drop the plastic housing?

Mirror tap pins FTW!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097MGX318/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B097MGX318&pd_rd_w=Clrrd&content-id=amzn1.sym.dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_p=dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_r=7YDSKZHVVT610NEW5QA4&pd_rd_wg=vJHVJ&pd_rd_r=76f368fa-73aa-4840-86dd-c06879cf1d57&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUURES1ZCV0FRVkRJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDEwNTIyMjFETzg3VklNUUpLWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTQxMTIwM0dON1RaWU1BU0hXTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[ARamsdale]

We know there is 12 VDC in the mirror enclosure, and it will be easy enough to figure it out with a meter; my question is the removal of the plastic housing as I don't just want to start tugging and yanking, and then end up breaking the damn thing, does anyone have the technique/procedure to drop the plastic housing?

Mirror tap pins FTW!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097MGX318/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B097MGX318&pd_rd_w=Clrrd&content-id=amzn1.sym.dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_p=dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_r=7YDSKZHVVT610NEW5QA4&pd_rd_wg=vJHVJ&pd_rd_r=76f368fa-73aa-4840-86dd-c06879cf1d57&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUURES1ZCV0FRVkRJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDEwNTIyMjFETzg3VklNUUpLWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTQxMTIwM0dON1RaWU1BU0hXTiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I would love if someone could post a bulletin on dismantling the first cover - I've spent a lot of time working on the clips to that overhead compartment, and gracefully trying to get into it.

From what limited visibility I have, there are two standard clips on the left and right on the plastic shroud just above the mirror, but from there, I'm having difficulty getting any sort of play and obviously incredibly worried about damaging the piece itself.

There appears to be a locking piece that is centered, towards the rear of the plastic shroud, which indicates that it may need to slide towards the back of the car to release itself from the overhead assembly. I'm worried that there may be a special tool or clip that needs to be pressed in order to release the plastic cover, since you have the two buttons + light assembly which that plastic piece wraps around. The top portion of that plastic piece easily unclips from the overhead light bar, the bottom plastic piece doesn't come off in the same manner - so the buttons likely come down with the shroud as clipped in pieces.

It's also difficult to tell, but it feels like there may be two connected assembly screws coming into the shroud from the top, about 1-2 inches towards the back of the car, from the front edge of the plastic, as indicated by the tension points on the plastic. This could be from that rear locking piece, or could be from a top-down screw to hold it in place. If the latter - that would indicated that the entire assembly comes down, or unclips, and then the plastic shroud is released from the entire console by unscrewing/unclipping from above. I hope to god that isn't the case, but that's as far as I've gotten before clipping everything back in and walking away temporarily defeated.

 

[Electrified]

Great post @ARamsdale
Let's keep this topic alive, info like the above definitely helps. I'll be at GI Friday night and I'll be looking for a wrench that knows interiors.

 

[hydbob]

I would love if someone could post a bulletin on dismantling the first cover - I've spent a lot of time working on the clips to that overhead compartment, and gracefully trying to get into it.

From what limited visibility I have, there are two standard clips on the left and right on the plastic shroud just above the mirror, but from there, I'm having difficulty getting any sort of play and obviously incredibly worried about damaging the piece itself.

There appears to be a locking piece that is centered, towards the rear of the plastic shroud, which indicates that it may need to slide towards the back of the car to release itself from the overhead assembly. I'm worried that there may be a special tool or clip that needs to be pressed in order to release the plastic cover, since you have the two buttons + light assembly which that plastic piece wraps around. The top portion of that plastic piece easily unclips from the overhead light bar, the bottom plastic piece doesn't come off in the same manner - so the buttons likely come down with the shroud as clipped in pieces.

It's also difficult to tell, but it feels like there may be two connected assembly screws coming into the shroud from the top, about 1-2 inches towards the back of the car, from the front edge of the plastic, as indicated by the tension points on the plastic. This could be from that rear locking piece, or could be from a top-down screw to hold it in place. If the latter - that would indicated that the entire assembly comes down, or unclips, and then the plastic shroud is released from the entire console by unscrewing/unclipping from above. I hope to god that isn't the case, but that's as far as I've gotten before clipping everything back in and walking away temporarily defeated.

Have you tried removing the center light strip and alcantara bar?

 

[bobofat]

I came across the same issues when trying to remove that cover where the interior lights in the front are. I can easily get the sides and section towards the back of the car loose, but there's visible stress changes in the plastic in the center part of the plastic cover, that I don't dare try to force any more, cause I think the clip will snap. I may try to remove the center light bar along the roof to see that that helps, but I don't think it will. I might try to remove the mirror, it seems to be a twist and lock type of installation. That might give me more clearance to see what's going on with the trim. z

 

[lwong]

Whatever you find will be greatly appreciated as well as any pictures.
Thanks

 

[ARamsdale]

Have you tried removing the center light strip and alcantara bar?

Is this a clue, or more curious?

We haven’t, but that may change this weekend based on your response!

 

[hydbob]

Is this a clue, or more curious?

We haven’t, but that may change this weekend based on your response!

I was just curious. I'm not as adventurous as you guys with taking my car apart

 

[Electrified]

Is this a clue, or more curious?

We haven’t, but that may change this weekend based on your response!

I'll be asking the Lucid folks questions this evening, hope to gather some good intel.

 

[Electrified]

Well folks I asked questions and got answers about doing a mirror tap............don't do it. It can get really ugly as that glass ceiling enclosure contains a camera, the spine running down the center contains several antennas, GPS, update, radio, etc., a mistake up there can get real expensive fast.

My plan is to stay away from that and take a look at the 12 VDC fuse box under the rear seat for switched power, or do what @hydbob did for his dash cam, either way I'll use Bob's routing, although I may exit the A pillar and string across the visor using tiny ty-wraps to attach the RJ11 cord to the visor mounting points.

Dash cam

Got a pic of the rear fuse box...

lucidowners.com

 

[ARamsdale]

Well folks I asked questions and got answers about doing a mirror tap............don't do it. It can get really ugly as that glass ceiling enclosure contains a camera, the spine running down the center contains several antennas, GPS, update, radio, etc., a mistake up there can get real expensive fast.

My plan is to stay away from that and take a look at the 12 VDC fuse box under the rear seat for switched power, or do what @hydbob did for his dash cam, either way I'll use Bob's routing, although I may exit the A pillar and string across the visor using tiny ty-wraps to attach the RJ11 cord to the visor mounting points.

Dash cam

Got a pic of the rear fuse box...

lucidowners.com

This isn’t abnormal in this day and age.

Coming from a Polestar 2, similarly, it has a host of MobileEye cameras, sensors, and electronics in that zone. Mirror tap is what I used there, and only one appropriate tap was available. I feel like there are probably more on the lucid that wouldn’t interfere with any sensors.

For instance, there is obviously power to the overhead lighting that is independent from the antennas and cameras.

 

[bobofat]

This isn’t abnormal in this day and age.

Coming from a Polestar 2, similarly, it has a host of MobileEye cameras, sensors, and electronics in that zone. Mirror tap is what I used there, and only one appropriate tap was available. I feel like there are probably more on the lucid that wouldn’t interfere with any sensors.

For instance, there is obviously power to the overhead lighting that is independent from the antennas and cameras.

I'm gonna have to pick the brains of the techs as well. See what info I can get in terms of removing trim. Its just such a long run from the mirror to the passenger side fuse box, middle console just because of the expansive glass roof. To the back is even longer and would require an extension wire or something to make it there. I've already hidden the wiring and have enough slack to the front fuse box, I just have to put the fuse tap into the box. Hopefully I can get this squared away this weekend.

On another note, I was still debating which detector to use. Right now I'm set up to use my Escort redline 360c. Anyone else have experience with that detector? I've been using the Uniden R8 in my other car and that's been great.

 

[MoniputerLM]

I'm gonna have to pick the brains of the techs as well. See what info I can get in terms of removing trim. Its just such a long run from the mirror to the passenger side fuse box, middle console just because of the expansive glass roof. To the back is even longer and would require an extension wire or something to make it there. I've already hidden the wiring and have enough slack to the front fuse box, I just have to put the fuse tap into the box. Hopefully I can get this squared away this weekend.

On another note, I was still debating which detector to use. Right now I'm set up to use my Escort redline 360c. Anyone else have experience with that detector? I've been using the Uniden R8 in my other car and that's been great.

I have used the K40 Platinum360 in several cars with added laser detector. Expensive but works well and completely out of sight.

K40 Platinum360 Dual Receiver Radar Detector

K40’s newest technology makes the Platinum360 the most reliable radar system you can buy, backed by a company that genuinely cares about your satisfaction.

k40.com

 

[bobofat]

I have used the K40 Platinum360 in several cars with added laser detector. Expensive but works well and completely out of sight.

K40 Platinum360 Dual Receiver Radar Detector

K40’s newest technology makes the Platinum360 the most reliable radar system you can buy, backed by a company that genuinely cares about your satisfaction.

k40.com

Thanks for the link. I think I'm going to opt away from a custom integrated install for now and just use a "portable" one for the time being. I may look into this in the future. I think Uniden is coming out with the R9 system this spring.