Radar Detector Hard Wire Installation?

[scoper]

Here is the long awaited information! Instructions for the mirror tap...

Here is the hardware I used. It's a 3 pack and the smallest pins fit.

Amazon.com

You can release the front end of the plastic mirror cover using a pry tool from the middle where there is space (yellow arrow in photo) then pulling down on the sides.
NOTE I was only able to release the front end that touches the windshield which is enough. I was not able to release from the mirror end but it wasn't necessary.

The mirror tap goes red to red, black to black. Nothing goes in the brown wire pin.
The mirror tap photos are taken from the windshield side, facing in to the car. Both photos show the mirror tap already inserted.

Thank you again for posting this. It does work as described. My notes:
1. when you pry off the trim piece, yes use a trim pry tool and make sure to put the tool in between the trim piece and the housing below it, NOT between the windshield itself and the housing. It's impossible to see, but you can feel for it (use fingers to pull on the middle of the trim piece to make a gap). Does take some force - pull center and passenger side corner down. That does allow enough access for the mirror tap.
2. Putting it back (after the wave of relief I got when I was able to pull off the trim, worried I was going to break it) is the hardest part, as described. The thing is, I was thinking - removing it was so easy, so I'm just gonna pop it back in and be done! NOT true. Take your time. As has been noted, the clips deform easily. Make sure the back clip is lined up (there will be some rotation you have to do with the trim piece to line it up) and make sure the front clip is lined up and not deformed. In my haste, I kept smacking the trim piece, just thinking it was going to "find home" itself - just made things worse. Had to break out needle nose pliers to fix the clips, took my time (with many times my forehead planted in the windshield) before it would line up and fit in. TAKE YOUR TIME and do it right the first time. They are VERY easy to deform.

My V1 works great after the install. Just used the suction cup mount that comes with it (transferred from the Tesla S we had). With the ease you hit illegal speeds in the Lucid Air, better to have the warning you need to not get nailed by "Ol' Smokey." Thanks Peegh for the pics.

 

[lwong]

It's a PITA not nearly as easy as it sounds it took me and my brother in law (auto mechanic) quite a long time to get it done. Be patient it takes several attempts to get it done.

 

[hourglass]

Hi All, I will bet taking delivery of a 2025 Touring by the end of the month - on it's way from the factory to Chicago now.

For this that have done the mirror tap installation - is the power supply there a constant 12V (i.e. still hot) or switch only when the car is "on".

The radar detector I'll be connecting is an Escort MAXcam 360c (and possibly repurposing a rear facing M2) and due to the dash cam I would like power when parked. I'd prefer the mirror tap over running all the way back to the trunk, or the trunk fuse in the passenger fuse box (glass roof makes it a bit round-a-boout to either).

Thanks for the info. I'd prefer Lucid opened up recording the built-in cameras (ala Tesla) but until they do, I'll take things into my own hands.

It turns off with the car and turns on when you unlock the door(iirc), or maybe when you press brake. I'm also not sure if the HV battery will charge the 12V if it becomes low. Yes it's a EV and would be a very nice feature, but I remember hearing Hyundai EVs getting their 12V drained so I'm not sure if you should tap into constant power until getting that confirmed. The other route is to go with a battery bank for the dashcams

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

I have a wife in the right seat.

Easy to install ... inconspicuous.

always on...