Charger FAQ/Explanation

[Tesla2.0]

Does anyone know if Lucid ever produced NEMA 14-30 adapter yet for its EVSE? I asked bc for alternative option.

 

[Adnillien]

Does anyone know if Lucid ever produced NEMA 14-30 adapter yet for its EVSE? I asked bc for alternative option.

This would be very nice to have but I don't think it is available yet.

 

[DeaneG]

Does anyone know if Lucid ever produced NEMA 14-30 adapter yet for its EVSE? I asked bc for alternative option.

As an alternative, Clipper Creek sells several "mobile" and wall-mount charging units at 16-24 amps with 14-30 connectors. The company's products are well known for reliability and interoperability, though I haven't tried these:

Store Products | Enphase

store.clippercreek.com

 

[Tesla2.0]

As an alternative, Clipper Creek sells several "mobile" and wall-mount charging units at 16-24 amps with 14-30 connectors. The company's products are well known for reliability and interoperability, though I haven't tried these:

Store Products | Enphase

store.clippercreek.com

Great link! TY.

I wish Lucid has produced NEMA 14-30 adapter to reduce foot print of extra cable just leave in the car for future road trip.

 

[Volund]

Looking to buy my first EVSE home charger, and wanted to clarify a few points, I read through the forums and saw reviews online, but although many people specifically talk about the features and list the pros and cons, I haven't seen any video that shows it in action, so wanted tto clarify:

1) I've read that as of 2.0.x the scheduled charging doesn't work, is that still the case? Regardless of Charge point Home Flex or Juicebox 48?

2) I'm looking to buy the Juicebox 48, does it allow you to set the current or charge limit so that it charges at a slower pace? For times you want it to trickle all night and not go 20-80 in a few hours?

3) any con of buying the highest Amp EVSE? 99% of the time, I'll plug the car in before I sleep and for it to be ready by morning, and I don't want to strain the battery by hitting with fast charging every single day. Would it be more beneficial to buy a slower charging EVSE? Like 30 Amp for example instead of 48?

4) any recommendations on chargers that allow both time based scheduling and TOU?
My electrician told me I have 200 amps available on the sub panel, so I am pretty much free to choose whatever I want.

Just want to make the right choice before I place the order.

Thanks!

 

[borski]

Looking to buy my first EVSE home charger, and wanted to clarify a few points, I read through the forums and saw reviews online, but although many people specifically talk about the features and list the pros and cons, I haven't seen any video that shows it in action, so wanted tto clarify:

1) I've read that as of 2.0.x the scheduled charging doesn't work, is that still the case? Regardless of Charge point Home Flex or Juicebox 48?

2) I'm looking to buy the Juicebox 48, does it allow you to set the current or charge limit so that it charges at a slower pace? For times you want it to trickle all night and not go 20-80 in a few hours?

3) any con of buying the highest Amp EVSE? 99% of the time, I'll plug the car in before I sleep and for it to be ready by morning, and I don't want to strain the battery by hitting with fast charging every single day. Would it be more beneficial to buy a slower charging EVSE? Like 30 Amp for example instead of 48?

4) any recommendations on chargers that allow both time based scheduling and TOU?
My electrician told me I have 200 amps available on the sub panel, so I am pretty much free to choose whatever I want.

Just want to make the right choice before I place the order.

Thanks!

1. Depends on who you ask. Works fine with my Wallbox Pulsar Plus. I suspect Chargepoint doesn’t work. No idea on Juicebox.

2. Any smart EVSE should let you adjust amperage, but why? You’d be using the same amount of electricity in either case, just taking longer to do it?

3. Nope. You won’t get “fast charging” at home, and even at 80A it won’t touch your battery’s health. Any “level 2” charging is going to be totally fine. Battery health is impacted by DC fast charging, but that’s charging at hundreds of kilowatts (150-350 usually) and at home your max power is going to be ~19kW on an 80amp charger. There is nothing to worry about there.

4. I’ve loved my Wallbox Pulsar Plus, but it maxes out at 48A. I have both it and the Lucid charger installed right now, and am excited for Lucid to build in scheduled charging.

 

[DeaneG]

Looking to buy my first EVSE home charger, and wanted to clarify a few points, I read through the forums and saw reviews online, but although many people specifically talk about the features and list the pros and cons, I haven't seen any video that shows it in action, so wanted tto clarify:

1) I've read that as of 2.0.x the scheduled charging doesn't work, is that still the case? Regardless of Charge point Home Flex or Juicebox 48?

2) I'm looking to buy the Juicebox 48, does it allow you to set the current or charge limit so that it charges at a slower pace? For times you want it to trickle all night and not go 20-80 in a few hours?

3) any con of buying the highest Amp EVSE? 99% of the time, I'll plug the car in before I sleep and for it to be ready by morning, and I don't want to strain the battery by hitting with fast charging every single day. Would it be more beneficial to buy a slower charging EVSE? Like 30 Amp for example instead of 48?

4) any recommendations on chargers that allow both time based scheduling and TOU?
My electrician told me I have 200 amps available on the sub panel, so I am pretty much free to choose whatever I want.

Just want to make the right choice before I place the order.

Thanks!

2) Typically the car would implement maximum current limiting, but the Air doesn't yet.

3) There's no benefit to charging slower - you won't hurt your car's battery with any level of charging power you could install at home.

4) Chargepoint home flex implements a programmable charging window. I don't have experience with Juicebox etc.

 

[MHDave]

Looking to buy my first EVSE home charger, and wanted to clarify a few points, I read through the forums and saw reviews online, but although many people specifically talk about the features and list the pros and cons, I haven't seen any video that shows it in action, so wanted tto clarify:

1) I've read that as of 2.0.x the scheduled charging doesn't work, is that still the case? Regardless of Charge point Home Flex or Juicebox 48?

2) I'm looking to buy the Juicebox 48, does it allow you to set the current or charge limit so that it charges at a slower pace? For times you want it to trickle all night and not go 20-80 in a few hours?

3) any con of buying the highest Amp EVSE? 99% of the time, I'll plug the car in before I sleep and for it to be ready by morning, and I don't want to strain the battery by hitting with fast charging every single day. Would it be more beneficial to buy a slower charging EVSE? Like 30 Amp for example instead of 48?

4) any recommendations on chargers that allow both time based scheduling and TOU?
My electrician told me I have 200 amps available on the sub panel, so I am pretty much free to choose whatever I want.

Just want to make the right choice before I place the order.

Thanks!

3 and 4b: You can take two approaches, as your battery will not be negatively impacted by the higher power levels.
One, you could determine the minimal current level that will consistently charge your car overnight. The lower ampere chargers cost less, and the cost of wiring should be slightly cheaper. Here you might go for a 40A charger, 50A circuit.
Two, you could "future proof" your garage so that the current level will meet the needs of higher capacity vehicles, and go for the charger and wiring that meets your potential future needs. Right now that might be a 100A circuit and 80A charger.
The tradeoff is current value of money vs. future. It will cost much more to upgrade the minimal solution if you need to. But if you're keeping the car for a long time or potentially moving in a shorter time, spend the money difference on new mats ;-)

 

[Volund]

3 and 4b: You can take two approaches, as your battery will not be negatively impacted by the higher power levels.
One, you could determine the minimal current level that will consistently charge your car overnight. The lower ampere chargers cost less, and the cost of wiring should be slightly cheaper. Here you might go for a 40A charger, 50A circuit.
Two, you could "future proof" your garage so that the current level will meet the needs of higher capacity vehicles, and go for the charger and wiring that meets your potential future needs. Right now that might be a 100A circuit and 80A charger.
The tradeoff is current value of money vs. future. It will cost much more to upgrade the minimal solution if you need to. But if you're keeping the car for a long time or potentially moving in a shorter time, spend the money difference on new mats ;-)

I couldn't find a residential 80A charger, 48A is the highest I found and could get a quote for
other solutions were commercial from what I saw, and the Lucid one isn't viable atm because it doesn't qualify for my 75% off rebate.
Also my power never goes out

 

[DeaneG]

I couldn't find a residential 80A charger, 48A is the highest I found and could get a quote for
other solutions were commercial from what I saw, and the Lucid one isn't viable atm because it doesn't qualify for my 75% off rebate.
Also my power never goes out

Clipper Creek makes 64 amp and 80 amp residential units:

Store Products | Enphase

store.clippercreek.com

 

[Volund]

Clipper Creek makes 64 amp and 80 amp residential units:

Store Products | Enphase

store.clippercreek.com

Thanks, That's definitely going on my list, in the mean-time I did find this too:

Enel X JuiceBox Pro 80 Amp Hardwired Commercial EV Charging Station | Warshauer Green Energy

<p> <strong>Future-proof your EV charging with Enel X’s fastest smart Level 2 station</strong> - JuiceBox Pro 80 is a powerful Level 2 charging station with all the safety and charging features businesses, fleet operators, school districts and transportation agencies need to maximize their...

www.shopevchargers.com

All the pros and features of Juicebox, and I get a 75% off rebate cause it's on my power company's list

https://www.rockymountainpower.net/content/dam/pcorp/documents/en/rockymountainpower/savings-energy-choices/electric-vehicles/RMP_Approved_EV_Chargers.pdf

 

[Volund]

Thanks, That's definitely going on my list, in the mean-time I did find this too:

Enel X JuiceBox Pro 80 Amp Hardwired Commercial EV Charging Station | Warshauer Green Energy

<p> <strong>Future-proof your EV charging with Enel X’s fastest smart Level 2 station</strong> - JuiceBox Pro 80 is a powerful Level 2 charging station with all the safety and charging features businesses, fleet operators, school districts and transportation agencies need to maximize their...

www.shopevchargers.com

All the pros and features of Juicebox, and I get a 75% off rebate cause it's on my power company's list

https://www.rockymountainpower.net/content/dam/pcorp/documents/en/rockymountainpower/savings-energy-choices/electric-vehicles/RMP_Approved_EV_Chargers.pdf

Can anyone look into this for me? It says 'commercial' evse, this will be okay to install residentially right?

 

[Bel]

Can anyone look into this for me? It says 'commercial' evse, this will be okay to install residentially right?

Yes ok residental. It says commercial because its higher amps than is typical for residential. In some years many people may want higher amps for residential just for convinience of fast charging.

I have 200 amp service and ran 125 amp circuit to charger sub panel. My hot water tanks, furnace, range, fireplaces are all gas so lots of amps to spare of 200.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

OK looks like nobody knows what they are talking about. I just looked up "100 amp wire" and discovered that goes from 4 AWG (barely good for Christmas Tree lights) to 0 AGW (correct size for long run to garage and 80 amp charging). But to confuse things, people (like LUCID) say things like " to be ready for the LSMFT you'll need a 100 amp wire. " That is bullshit. WTF is "100 amp wire"?

to be ready for the LuckyStrikeMeansFineTobacco charger you'll need to know how long the wire will be and how many amps you will pull. Don't trust your electrician to do this for you, as he has never seen a Lucid before. Do your own research. Never trust a pro.

Also, what size lugs do I want ? I don't trust electricians now. I'm going to do all of the work myself.

I think we're going to need a bigger boat

 

[AIR.LUCID]

OK looks like nobody knows what they are talking about. I just looked up "100 amp wire" and discovered that goes from 4 AWG (barely good for Christmas Tree lights) to 0 AGW (correct size for long run to garage and 80 amp charging). But to confuse things, people (like LUCID) say things like " to be ready for the LSMFT you'll need a 100 amp wire. " That is bullshit. WTF is "100 amp wire"?

to be ready for the LuckyStrikeMeansFineTobacco charger you'll need to know how long the wire will be and how many amps you will pull. Don't trust your electrician to do this for you, as he has never seen a Lucid before. Do your own research. Never trust a pro.

Also, what size lugs do I want ? I don't trust electricians now. I'm going to do all of the work myself.

I think we're going to need a bigger boat

Even old bulb style Christmas tree lights need no more than an 18 gauge extension cord.

 

[Bel]

OK looks like nobody knows what they are talking about. I just looked up "100 amp wire" and discovered that goes from 4 AWG (barely good for Christmas Tree lights) to 0 AGW (correct size for long run to garage and 80 amp charging). But to confuse things, people (like LUCID) say things like " to be ready for the LSMFT you'll need a 100 amp wire. " That is bullshit. WTF is "100 amp wire"?

to be ready for the LuckyStrikeMeansFineTobacco charger you'll need to know how long the wire will be and how many amps you will pull. Don't trust your electrician to do this for you, as he has never seen a Lucid before. Do your own research. Never trust a pro.

Also, what size lugs do I want ? I don't trust electricians now. I'm going to do all of the work myself.

I think we're going to need a bigger boat

For 100 A breaker and ambient max 30°C, #3 wire is sufficient (but just about so) given the breaker is rated 75°C (many breakers are) and the wire is rated 75°C (most wires are, the commonly used THHN is typically rated 90°C). However, #3 is less commonly used and thus next size up, which is #2 is used instead. For ambient higher than 30°C, ampacity derating applies, and thus larger wire may be needed. For voltage drop and 80 A and 240 V and assuming 2 % drop from the utility to your main panel and from there 3 % to the charger, #3 and #2 can do 185 ft and 225 ft respectively. Thus, for most homes, voltage drop isn't an issue and by far not so. Voltage drop is proportional to cable length. Assuming the charger will draw 80 A continuously and for hours at end, it's prudent, and with just insignificant more cost, to go with #2.

 

[Bel]

For 100 A breaker and ambient max 30°C, #3 wire is sufficient (but just about so) given the breaker is rated 75°C (many breakers are) and the wire is rated 75°C (most wires are, the commonly used THHN is typically rated 90°C). However, #3 is less commonly used and thus next size up, which is #2 is used instead. For ambient higher than 30°C, ampacity derating applies, and thus larger wire may be needed. For voltage drop and 80 A and 240 V and assuming 2 % drop from the utility to your main panel and from there 3 % to the charger, #3 and #2 can do 185 ft and 225 ft respectively. Thus, for most homes, voltage drop isn't an issue and by far not so. Voltage drop is proportional to cable length. Assuming the charger will draw 80 A continuously and for hours at end, it's prudent, and with just insignificant more cost, to go with #2.

Forgot -- meant copper wire.

 

[Bill55]

OK looks like nobody knows what they are talking about. I just looked up "100 amp wire" and discovered that goes from 4 AWG (barely good for Christmas Tree lights) to 0 AGW (correct size for long run to garage and 80 amp charging). But to confuse things, people (like LUCID) say things like " to be ready for the LSMFT you'll need a 100 amp wire. " That is bullshit. WTF is "100 amp wire"?

to be ready for the LuckyStrikeMeansFineTobacco charger you'll need to know how long the wire will be and how many amps you will pull. Don't trust your electrician to do this for you, as he has never seen a Lucid before. Do your own research. Never trust a pro.

Also, what size lugs do I want ? I don't trust electricians now. I'm going to do all of the work myself.

I think we're going to need a bigger boat

 

[Negan1000]

I recommend getting a few installation quotes from licensed electrician before ordering Lucid charger. He can run load calculations required for the permit. This way you will know how much current your panel can accommodate for the charger.

 

[emoylv]

OK looks like nobody knows what they are talking about. I just looked up "100 amp wire" and discovered that goes from 4 AWG (barely good for Christmas Tree lights) to 0 AGW (correct size for long run to garage and 80 amp charging). But to confuse things, people (like LUCID) say things like " to be ready for the LSMFT you'll need a 100 amp wire. " That is bullshit. WTF is "100 amp wire"?

to be ready for the LuckyStrikeMeansFineTobacco charger you'll need to know how long the wire will be and how many amps you will pull. Don't trust your electrician to do this for you, as he has never seen a Lucid before. Do your own research. Never trust a pro.

Also, what size lugs do I want ? I don't trust electricians now. I'm going to do all of the work myself.

I think we're going to need a bigger boat

I read your post with equal parts humor and trepidation. If your intent was humor, it's not quite SNL but it was humorous. If not, then I am very concerned. I've taken basic electricity and circuit analysis as part of my engineering curriculum and have never seen the words that you've used in that sequence. Wire size is expressed not in amps but in gauge. That's because the Wire size depends on its intended use, taking into account length of run, multiple wires in conduit (derating), temperature, etc. I've wired 120-volt circuits hot (not smart by the way). 120 can hurt; 240 will definitely KILL or cause significant damage. Even after turning a breaker off, I still wave that "pen" on the conductors to see if anything chirps. As a future Lucid owner, I'd like to see you enjoying your ride. If you're not skilled electrically, please hire a professional.