Another close call with Leviton NEMA 14-50

[Worldwide Beagle]

I'm always curious so I gotta ask, why didn't your hubby hardwire instead?

@Babyrocko1908, fwiw, I did the same in our mtn vacation home. Here are my reasons:

1. This home is rented for the winter months. The receptacle allows a renter to unplug the CP unit. And use something else.
2. I used existing in wall 6 awg wiring for a kiln that was not long enough for hardwiring, and I did not want to use a pigtail on a high amperage circuit. Replacing the wire to the panel would have required removing finished drywall.
3. Most importantly, do not underestimate the construction of the Hubbell receptacle. Consumers never use/see an industrial device of that quality. The amount of pressure it takes to fully insert a 14-50 plug into a Hubbell is huge. It took me pressing my full palm and leaning into plug to insert it in the Hubbell. And two hands to remove it. I would guess four times the force needed for a Leviton. With a Leviton, I can use two fingers.
4. Redundancy. If the CP wall unit dies, say at midnight, I can simply unplug and whip out the Lucid cord. The home is in a remote area. Gu
5. I don't plan on ever unplugging the CP.
6. The Hubbell receptacle gives off virtually no heat in EV use. After 20 to 80% SOC all night charging, my Fluke temp meter shows almost no temp rise on the face of the receptacle and no temp rise on the plug.

So, I agree that hardwiring is better. My residence has it. I always encourage it. But using a 14-50 receptacle can be done safely if done right, just more variables: industrial receptacle properly installed, and removal/insertion of plug is infrequent.

Hope that helps.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

Just got latest Covid / Flu shots. Now I have (what I think is) a cold (tested neg. for Cvd). I forgot how miserable it is just to have a common cold. Definitely don't want to have Covid again. Can't imagine that much flying...hope your trip was awesome. Photos?

Yeah...again, cheap insurance. Also, curious if he used a torque screwdriver/ wrench since you did not mention it , or the "three grunt" method used by auto mechanics?

Also, for you pros out there...is this something that needs be checked (re-torquing high-current connections),
like checking the wheel bolt torque after driving ~ 50 mi after a wheel change?

Lots of photos, biking with the Lemurs! Beautiful but deathly poor country. Makes South Africa looked like California.

Imho, I think most DIY installers are unfamiliar with the requirements of properly installing and compressing 8 or 6 awg stranded copper. They are used to 14 or 12 awg wire under a screw into a $1 outlet. I have rechecked work for friends and they never tighten enough. Copper needs to compressed. Resistance, inductance, thermal expansion and contraction of conductors is not intuitive.

Lastly, I do not think retorquing is required under the code. As long as the conductors are not moved. I could be wrong. If you properly compressed the conductors, waited a bit, and rechecked, there should be no need.

 

[borski]

The amount of pressure it takes to fully insert a 14-50 plug into a Hubbell is huge. It took me pressing my full palm and leaning into plug to insert it in the Hubbell. And two hands to remove it.

So what you're saying is... you effectively hardwired.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

So what you're saying is... you effectively hardwired.

Ah, it takes a @borski to cut to the quick.

Forcing the plug blades into the Hubbell receptacle is an "ah-ha" moment. Now, This is how it's supposed to work!