Advice - Only getting 55% range & Lucid hasn't fixed after 4 weeks in West Palm Service Center

[chipcaldwell]

I need some advice. My Lucid was not holding a charge and I was only getting 55% range showing on the pilot. That is, when the range was showing 300 miles, I collected statistics over 2 months that I was only getting just over 150 miles. After dying on the road, Lucid towed it to the West Palm service center. I have screen captures from the app that shows the vehicle odometer has remained at 5062 since December 3rd and the locator shows that it has not been moved. I entered all the data in a Google sheets and provided it to the Lucid service center. As of this date the log has not been opened by maintenance. I asked the customer rep, who has been wonderful, if it was unreasonable that I not accept delivery until someone has driven the car 150 mi, taking screen captures in 50 mile increments to document that the range prediction is no more than 10% off. She indicated she thought that was reasonable. However, I got a call from her this morning and she stated that the head of maintenance inspected the vehicle and could find no error however, the Google sheets log has not been opened. I began researching the Florida Lemon law and it appears that my situation is exactly why that law was created. But I'm not quite sure what I should do. Any advice or suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

 

[thecodingart]

The mileage estimates have been discussed to hell in the forums and are extremely inaccurate. This is not a value that matters in any way. You’ll want to check your mi/kWh metric versus the used kWs knowing the size of the battery. This is why battery percentage should be the default just like people are used to understand field gauge values versus mi/gallon.

Just like ICE vehicles, there’s a LOT based on external conditions + driving habits. In winter alone you can expect a 10-30% range drop which will not be reflected on the range estimator.

I asked the customer rep, who has been wonderful, if it was unreasonable that I not accept delivery until someone has driven the car 150 mi, taking screen captures in 50 mile increments to document that the range prediction is no more than 10% off

This is also factually incorrect. Most have been reporting a range of 2.9-3.4 mi/kWh via 21” wheels on the AGT. That leaves us with around 320-340 mile like ranges on a full charge. Again, this information is readily available when searching the forums.

 

[chipcaldwell]

I'm really sorry that I strongly disagree with your opinion. Miles per kilowatt is one metric and it is remain relatively constant at about 3.2. however, if the battery will not hold a charge there by crippling the car at a Max of 150 mi range, the miles per kilowatt isn't irrelevant Factor. Since you seem to be more experienced in this matter than I am, I would appreciate any insight You may wish to share regarding only getting $150 mi on what appears to be a defective battery.

 

[thecodingart]

I'm really sorry that I strongly disagree with your opinion. Miles per kilowatt is one metric and it is remain relatively constant at about 3.2. however, if the battery will not hold a charge there by crippling the car at a Max of 150 mi range, the miles per kilowatt isn't irrelevant Factor. Since you seem to be more experienced in this matter than I am, I would appreciate any insight You may wish to share regarding only getting $150 mi on what appears to be a defective battery.

Not my opinion as I’m an expert in the field and I’m stating facts. mi/kW is still the same even if a battery looses charge elsewhere. The other metric is tied to the total used kWs during a trip.

When you note not having a charge, what are you using to deduct that? Charge state will be accurate within the vehicle and you can easily measure the usable kWs through a full drive draining the battery to zero. Those numbers do not lie and all exist in the pilot panel. This includes the full kW usage in a drive which should roughly match your battery capacity (with a new car) on a 100-0% drain.

 

[larry]

The only thing I'll suggest is that you discard the relevance of the Google sheet (your log). I understand you put work into that and its value is significant to you, but that doesn't mean it's valuable to Lucid/the service team. I presume Service can get all the data it needs from the car itself, which should also be more reliable than what someone else provided. (EDIT: And while tons of people and businesses use Google docs as part of their daily work, you're probably asking them to take a step well outside their normal patterns.)

Put another way, I can definitely conceive of professionals in many industries receiving X THING from a customer/client/user but reasonably giving it no thought whatsoever.

Hope this gets resolved for you properly and quickly!

 

[Coltonw011]

By saying it’s not holding a charge, do you mean you’re seeing a lot of phantom drain, when you’re not driving it’s just drawing down? Or by just driving you’re getting 0.5 actual miles versus rated miles?

 

[tmilone103]

I am getting around 50% of my stated range in the cold but unfortunately this is normal for an EV with cold temperatures. In the spring you will see a huge improvement in performance. I also have a 2022 Model S and it also takes around 70 miles of range to go my normal 35 mile commute when its cold.

 

[Neurio]

Are you saying that when you charge to 100% the miles remaining only reads 300 (instead of 469/516)? Or that when the miles remaining say 300 you only get 155 of those miles?

If it's the former, then there's definitely something wrong. If it's the latter, as many have stated, there are numerous factors that can affect your actual efficiency so 55%, while low, is within the normal realm of loss.

 

[thecodingart]

Not my opinion as I’m an expert in the field and I’m stating facts. mi/kW is still the same even if a battery looses charge elsewhere. The other metric is tied to the total used kWs during a trip.

When you note not having a charge, what are you using to deduct that? Charge state will be accurate within the vehicle and you can easily measure the usable kWs through a full drive draining the battery to zero. Those numbers do not lie and all exist in the pilot panel. This includes the full kW usage in a drive which should roughly match your battery capacity (with a new car) on a 100-0% drain.

For further clarity on the math I presented in the other thread this was posted, is this on a Touring or GT (which have different battery capacities)?

 

[Adnillien]

Miles per kilowatt is one metric and it is remain relatively constant at about 3.2. however

I assume you mean that your trip display shows 3.2 mi/kWhr? Is there a large difference between efficiency of the trip information and the efficiency since last charge? The efficiency since last charge includes non-driving energy used. The trip efficiency seems to only include energy used while driving so it is a better indicator.

 

[idiot900]

This sounds like @chipcaldwell's efficiency is fine but battery capacity is severely degraded. Is that a reasonable interpretation?

 

[thecodingart]

This sounds like @chipcaldwell's efficiency is fine but battery capacity is severely degraded. Is that a reasonable interpretation?

Not really. The numbers haven’t been posted to drive that conclusion. It’s impossible to tell based on the range estimator numbers. Right now, we can just conclude that the range estimator is misleading and @chipcaldwell is not happy as he purchased a vehicle with different expectation. I definitely dont blame him for being disgruntled, but it’s impossible to tell if these are expected numbers or not based on the provided data.

 

[idiot900]

Not really. The numbers haven’t been posted to drive that conclusion. It’s impossible to tell based on the range estimator numbers. Right now, we can just conclude that the range estimator is misleading and @chipcaldwell is not happy as he purchased a vehicle with different expectation. I definitely dont blame him for being disgruntled, but it’s impossible to tell if these are expected numbers or not based on the provided data.

It's worded a bit ambiguously the original post, but if the car was towed after 150 miles, and the reported efficiency was 3.2 mi/kwh, doesn't that point to a degraded battery? If for example some of the cells were offline, this should be obvious in maximum charge rate at a DCFC, and presumably easily diagnosable by Lucid. Like you, I think more objective data is necessary here.

 

[Coltonw011]

For further clarity on the math I presented in the other thread this was posted, is this on a Touring or GT (which have different battery capacities)?

He has a GT delivered in September