Lucid Combined Home Charging System Installation tips!

[hydbob]

Thanks for @DeaneG for simplifying this process.

1) Use 3AWG or 2AWG wire and 1/4" compression lugs for a 100-amp circuit breaker (80 amp charging rate)
2) Lucid's LHCS can replace a previous Tesla HPWC - just set the Lucid charger's dip switches for the correct charging rate corresponding to 80% of existing circuit breaker size.
3) Installation requires a T20 Torx security bit
4) Cover removal will be difficult
5) Do not install batteries
6) If your home Wifi LAN is on 192.168.1.xxx, temporarily change it to 192.168.2.xxx until you have successfully installed the charger and configured it with your Wifi SSID and password. The unit's factory firmware has a bug which prevents it from communicating properly on 192.168.1.xxx networks. A future firmware release will fix this.
7) If the LHCS 'Lucid' logo begins blinking orange after installation and wifi configuration, that means it is working on your wifi and is updating firmware. DO NOT turn it off.
8) Once the LHCS has completed its firmware update, you can change your home network back to 192.168.1.xxx if you don't need wifi access to the charger.

 

[borski]

The sizes below are based on the NEC and will work for the majority of installations, but consult a licensed electrician to confirm.

Breaker and wire size table, for copper only:​

Based on 122ºF ambient temps per NEC 310. For single-circuit raceways only.

Runs longer than about 100 ft, wires run through an attic, and multiple circuits sharing the same conduit may require larger wire sizes.

Breaker sizes larger than 50A must be hardwired directly to the EVSE.

A neutral wire is not required unless feeding a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, then it must be included.

The 100A circuit is included for maximum power from the LCHCS.

* One update on the charging speed; I pulled this chart from an F150 Lightning forum where the onboard charger is limited to 48A.

For a 70A breaker, you can charge at up to 50A on some of the hardwired chargers.

With the LCHCS, you’ll be able to use the full “Max load” all the way up to 80A on a 100A breaker, provided you have the right sized wiring, breakers, panel, and everything else.

Please consult an electrician unless you are doing a “like for like” exchange, and even then I’d recommend it.

 

[deepakb]

In my LCHCS, control panel i see these new start and stop buttons in the home screen. Also i see a new tab for Device info for the setup screen. Do you know what these are for? Also is there any separate thread for discussing LCHCS version and functionality details?

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

I requested a 100 amp breaker and copper cable to support an 80 amp load for the LCHCS. I explained how it will be bi-directional and will actually ask for the whole 80 amps. He thinks he's an expert because he's done the little pussy chargers for a Prius. Did not check as the company is well known in the county. Inspector did not even look, just saw the company sticker and signed off. After reading here I decided I needed to check. He put in 4 AWG. Now I have to set the DIP switches to cripple the Lucid Home Charger. Never trust a pro guys. None of them.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

I requested a 100 amp breaker and copper cable to support an 80 amp load for the LCHCS. I explained how it will be bi-directional and will actually ask for the whole 80 amps. The run from the main panel is about 25 meters. Did not check as the company is well known in the county and I used them when I remodeled the kitchen. Inspector did not even look, just saw the company sticker and signed off. After reading here I decided I needed to check. He put in 4 AWG. Now I have to set the DIP switches to cripple the Lucid Home Charger.

Never trust a pro guys. Bug the heck out of them: hover and ask "are you sure?" Specify exactly what cable you want. "100 amps" means nothing to a pro. Make sure you get copper. Make sure it's at least AWG 3 if you are going to pull 80 amps (this is how the DIP switches are set from factory). Read the installation guide for what rating of cable YOU SHOULD NOT USE.

Question for Deane... I've mounted the unit and plan to use the bottom port. Do I need a conduit or is the raw wire going into a clamp grommet on the units port enough ? I was thinking I would use a 1" dia. (correct size for 4 AWG?) plastic elbow into the drywall for a clean look except this stiff wire does not want a tight bend. The Juice Box I took out came with a flexible conduit like the one in the LCHCS instruction booklet. Electrician is coming tomorrow to crimp the wire and torque it in.

I'm going to make him reset the DIP switches and glare at him ... "I asked for a 100 amp cable...what are you doing?"

 

[Negan1000]

Did your electrician install 100A circuit breaker with 4 AWG wiring? What size conduit? The cable table in this posts indicates 80A circuit breaker and 64A load for 4 AWG. Your CB rating should match the DIP switch setting. 80A circuit breaker is equivalent to more than 5 rooms of convenience outlets for power backup. My electrician's quote was 40% higher for 100A CB vs 70 A - 40' (3/4") conduit run electric panel to Lucid home charger, no subpanel required..

 

[DeaneG]

@Cosmo Cruz typically you'd bring in the wire through the backside of the LHCS in a case like this, though you'd have to use a hole saw to drill a 1-3/8" hole in its plastic housing, easy to damage the unit. Or you could do bottom entry with a conduit body helping to manage the 90 degree bend like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-in-Rigid-Threaded-Aluminum-Conduit-Body-58610/100116891

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Did your electrician install 100A circuit breaker with 4 AWG wiring?

Yes.

What size conduit? The cable table in this posts indicates 80A circuit breaker and 64A load for 4 AWG. Your CB rating should match the DIP switch setting. 80A circuit breaker is equivalent to more than 5 rooms of convenience outlets for power backup. My electrician's quote was 40% higher for 100A CB vs 70 A - 40' (3/4") conduit run electric panel to Lucid home charger, no subpanel required..

I asked him again (he's here wiring the LCHCS to the sub-panel he previously installed) and he insists he used 100 amp cable (AWG 4).
I told him the unit will pull 80 amps. He's fine with that. He's out now looking for a torque "wrench", heavy duty lugs, some conduit, and a hunk of 90 degree wire. Looks like at least the one meter of cable from the sub-panel to the charger will be in code. /s

Looking at the back of the white cover under :

what's that Batman ?

and that... ?

 

[Sam6062]

I requested a 100 amp breaker and copper cable to support an 80 amp load for the LCHCS. I explained how it will be bi-directional and will actually ask for the whole 80 amps. The run from the main panel is about 25 meters. Did not check as the company is well known in the county and I used them when I remodeled the kitchen. Inspector did not even look, just saw the company sticker and signed off. After reading here I decided I needed to check. He put in 4 AWG. Now I have to set the DIP switches to cripple the Lucid Home Charger.

Never trust a pro guys. Bug the heck out of them: hover and ask "are you sure?" Specify exactly what cable you want. "100 amps" means nothing to a pro. Make sure you get copper. Make sure it's at least AWG 3 if you are going to pull 80 amps (this is how the DIP switches are set from factory). Read the installation guide for what rating of cable YOU SHOULD NOT USE.

Question for Deane... I've mounted the unit and plan to use the bottom port. Do I need a conduit or is the raw wire going into a clamp grommet on the units port enough ? I was thinking I would use a 1" dia. (correct size for 4 AWG?) plastic elbow into the drywall for a clean look except this stiff wire does not want a tight bend. The Juice Box I took out came with a flexible conduit like the one in the LCHCS instruction booklet. Electrician is coming tomorrow to crimp the wire and torque it in.

I'm going to make him reset the DIP switches and glare at him ... "I asked for a 100 amp cable...what are you doing?"
View attachment 7737View attachment 7738View attachment 7739

The Pros are more prone to cut corners. They will make up the numbers between the Amos and the Wire saying with X Amp Switch using a lower gauge wire will still give you like 80% etc or scare you by saying if the Amperage is higher you could fry your equipment.

I would also negotiate that If the install a lower gushed wire they need to reduce the price because the price jumps significantly between gauges. They also do not like pulling a heavier gauge wire long distances.

I paid them 1500$ to run a wire for a 50 AMP Cooking range and they still played games with me and used a lower gauge wire. Some manufacturers also do you a disservice by not providing very clear directions regarding the Breaker Amperage and the Gauge of the wire.

Looks like Lucid does.

 

[Negan1000]

Yes.

I asked him again (he's here wiring the LCHCS to the sub-panel he previously installed) and he insists he used 100 amp cable (AWG 4).
I told him the unit will pull 80 amps. He's fine with that. He's out now looking for a torque "wrench", heavy duty lugs, some conduit, and a hunk of 90 degree wire. Looks like at least the one meter of cable from the sub-panel to the charger will be in code. /s

Looking at the back of the white cover under :
View attachment 7821
what's that Batman ?
View attachment 7822
and that... ?

Those connectors need to be mated before you close the white cover. Cut the zip tie to extend the black cable to make the connection.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Those connectors need to be mated before you close the white cover. Cut the zip tie to extend the black cable to make the connection.

Glad I asked.

As shipped there is no connection between the white under cover circuit board and the power circuits. I was wondering how it lights up with no connection??? Thought it might have something to do with the reverse flow not available yet.

OK I see it now on p 17 in the manual. Thanks for that heads up.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Ok job is finished. He went through the back. Plugged right in when LUCID light went solid. Green on car and charging at 16 Kw. (car is at 77%). I am officially 100% LUCID.

Now I have to take it all apart = remove the sub panel and charger to replace the insulation he removed, again. Curious he put a 90 amp breaker in the sub-panel... I don't know if he messed with the DIP to lower the amp draw ? perhaps I'll look at it when I take it apart later. I believe I read here somewhere that folk were charging at 19 Kw. He did say he went out to get "90 degree wire" for the meter (distance) between the panel and the LCHCS.

Now to connect it to the router.... hate this part.

 

[borski]

Ok job is finished. He went through the back. Plugged right in when LUCID light went solid. Green on car and charging at 16 Kw. (car is at 77%). I am officially 100% LUCID.

Now I have to take it all apart = remove the sub panel and charger to replace the insulation he removed, again. Curious he put a 90 amp breaker in the sub-panel... I don't know if he messed with the DIP to lower the amp draw ? perhaps I'll look at it when I take it apart later. I believe I read here somewhere that folk were charging at 19 Kw. He did say he went out to get "90 degree wire" for the meter (distance) between the panel and the LCHCS.
View attachment 7829
Now to connect it to the router.... hate this part.

You need to get him to swap it out for a proper cable and breaker, so that it is to code. I wouldn’t let that one slide. If I pay you to do something right, you do it right.

I’d also consider reporting him to the contracting board in your state; they tend to fix things extremely quickly once they threaten a professional’s license.

 

[deepakb]

A quick question, today is the first time i charged from LCHCS for more than an hour. Car was at 35% and charged up till 80%. Once the charge is completed, when i unplugged the cable from the car, i felt that the cable is hot. Is that normal? I didn't have this with my NEMA 50 cable even though i charge it over the night.

 

[DeaneG]

A quick question, today is the first time i charged from LCHCS for more than an hour. Car was at 35% and charged up till 80%. Once the charge is completed, when i unplugged the cable from the car, i felt that the cable is hot. Is that normal? I didn't have this with my NEMA 50 cable even though i charge it over the night.

The LHCS's cable does get noticeably warm on mine even though it's only charging at 48 amps (60 amp breaker). In my experience some warmth is normal. What current is yours charging at?

 

[deepakb]

The LHCS's cable does get noticeably warm on mine even though it's only charging at 48 amps (60 amp breaker). In my experience some warmth is normal. What current is yours charging at?

80 Amps (100 amps CB).

 

[DeaneG]

80 Amps (100 amps CB).

Yes, things will get warm, it's normal.

 

[borski]

Warm is fine. If it’s *hot*, you may want to get your wiring and/or breaker checked out.

But a bit of warmth is to be expected.

 

[deepakb]

Warm is fine. If it’s *hot*, you may want to get your wiring and/or breaker checked out.

But a bit of warmth is to be expected.

I should say it is warm. Not hot.

 

[Volund]

Having this 80A beast installed right now

The charger cable is quite long! Looks about 25 feet