How Much Range Are You Actually Getting?

How Much Range Are You Actually Getting?

  • 100% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 8 2.9%
  • 90% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 22 7.9%
  • 80% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 108 38.8%
  • 70% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 96 34.5%
  • 60% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 31 11.2%
  • 50% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 11 4.0%
  • 40% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 2 0.7%
  • 30% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    278
Quick question, when everyone is judging their efficiency, you're looking at last charged and not trip A after resetting right?

Those numbers are vastly different for me
 
Don’t look at “last charged”, unless you drive out immediately after charge. Tripmeter does not include idle time for Battery Management System drain as oppose of “last charged” does.
 
I use either of the trip numbers, not the ‘since the last charge’ one. I only look at the since last charge when on a distance trip to gauge range on a leg. Don’t care about day to day range umbers since I can always charge at home. But on a trip it matters. I reset on of the Trip buttons when I leave so I can get the range for the trip and the since last charge is useful after driving a couple of hundred miles to see when I need to look for a charging station. It usually starts mirroring the trip counter by then. If it has not, then there is some reason (elevation, wind, temp, change in driving speed, etc) and if it is significantly lower than the trip counter, I use that number to judge remaining range.
 
On "since last charge" I am averaging 3.0-3.2 in 25F but on my trip A, I was at 3.6

So maybe when judging vehicles overall "efficiency" I've been looking at the wrong numbers. Drain will obvious make the "since last charge" numbers lower, so I need to disregard that.

Thanks for the clarifications
 
I find it interesting that the Lucids do much better on the highway than on urban roads. On the other hand, my Genesis GV60 is the reverse: I do much better on urban roads than on highways (of course, I am driving 75-80 on the highway). The only thing I can attribute this to is that the Genesis has blended brakes whereas the Lucid does not. So I do a lot of coasting on urban roads with my regen set to very low. In 60s weather, I have been doing around 2.7 on the highway and 3.5 on urban roads.

Other than not getting stranded, IMHO the ultimate goal is to drive somewhere and while doing that have fun! Except for the stranded issue, for me hypermiling and its less rigorous versions is a non starter.

So I think it is good to track efficiency early in the ownership period so one knows what one is likely to get on a trip where range and recharging will be an issue. After that...not so much.
 
I find it interesting that the Lucids do much better on the highway than on urban roads. On the other hand, my Genesis GV60 is the reverse: I do much better on urban roads than on highways (of course, I am driving 75-80 on the highway). The only thing I can attribute this to is that the Genesis has blended brakes whereas the Lucid does not. So I do a lot of coasting on urban roads with my regen set to very low. In 60s weather, I have been doing around 2.7 on the highway and 3.5 on urban roads.

Other than not getting stranded, IMHO the ultimate goal is to drive somewhere and while doing that have fun! Except for the stranded issue, for me hypermiling and its less rigorous versions is a non starter.

So I think it is good to track efficiency early in the ownership period so one knows what one is likely to get on a trip where range and recharging will be an issue. After that...not so much.
I think for your car, aerodynamics may play a big role for efficiency in city vs. hwy driving.
 
I think for your car, aerodynamics may play a big role for efficiency in city vs. hwy driving.
Clearly the larger profile of an SUV (even a little one like mine) negatively impacts efficiency compared to a sedan. But I don't think that accounts for most of the discrepancy. I think it is probably more a design decision in each case. The Lucid is a large cruiser with huge range so it is really a GT and I think Rawlinson maximized its efficiency for the highway GT like driving. With a smaller range, the GV60 is probably designed to work more efficiency in a city setting. The 21 inch tires on my car don't help its efficiency nor the extra sound proofing.
 
So today I had a pleasant surprise. It's 57F in NJ and my efficiency is 3.8 mi/kWh with me driving on county roads with traffic lights and lots of stop and go. I know temp is a huge determinant of range but it was nice to see the real world numbers.
 
I ran a test over the past week, as I was out of town. Details:
  • Car was unplugged, sitting in garage
  • Temps 35 low -55 high range, each day (I live in a desert)
  • Fobs far away throughout the test - never a factor
  • Touring trim
  • Woke the car up via my phone two times total, from remote location, just to check what the mileage showed
  • No updates received / installed
  • Vampire miles totaled 12 miles in 6 days
Additional info ....
Upon my first use back, I checked the miles per kWh since last charge as I wanted to understand whether Vampire miles count in this calculation and the answer is definitely yes they do. My miles per kWh was 1.0, because I had just charged the car prior to leaving for my trip and only had 4 miles "since last charge". Prior to leaving, those 4 miles were 3.7 kWh and upon return were 1.0.

So, the car is calculating all kWh consumed since last charge whether driven miles or Vampire miles. I think that is very important when we are trying to figure out why we aren't getting the miles per kWh that Lucid publishes.
 
I ran a test over the past week, as I was out of town. Details:
  • Car was unplugged, sitting in garage
  • Temps 35 low -55 high range, each day (I live in a desert)
  • Fobs far away throughout the test - never a factor
  • Touring trim
  • Woke the car up via my phone two times total, from remote location, just to check what the mileage showed
  • No updates received / installed
  • Vampire miles totaled 12 miles in 6 days
Additional info ....
Upon my first use back, I checked the miles per kWh since last charge as I wanted to understand whether Vampire miles count in this calculation and the answer is definitely yes they do. My miles per kWh was 1.0, because I had just charged the car prior to leaving for my trip and only had 4 miles "since last charge". Prior to leaving, those 4 miles were 3.7 kWh and upon return were 1.0.

So, the car is calculating all kWh consumed since last charge whether driven miles or Vampire miles. I think that is very important when we are trying to figure out why we aren't getting the miles per kWh that Lucid publishes.
Yup, that’s why minimizing phantom drain is so important. Excessive phantom drain can really negatively impact the hard work that went into achieving good efficiency.
 
Yes. The since last charge calculation includes all the “phantom drain” energy used so is not useful in calculating true efficiency unless you are driving immediately after charging. It will however, give you a good idea of how many miles of range you have if you just do a lot of little short trips which causes the BMS fans to kick on frequently. The “trip“ calculations do not appear to add the phantom drain, but only the kWh actually used while the car is on, so that number is more of the indicative of how far you can actually go if you were on a long distance teip.
 
Just to add to the thread, 446 miles (estimated EPA), in reality I'm getting around 300 miles, when charged @ 88% limit.
I drive highways-fast and getting 2.8 since delivery. Me happy 😊
 
Cg

This is really promising. What size wheels do you have? I put the aero covers back on my 19s and my efficiency increased to 3.4-3.5 mi/kwh. I drive about 20 miles each way on suburban roads with traffic lights. These numbers are in the recent temps that are around 50F here in NJ within the last week. Hoping it'll be closer to 4 mi/kWh if I decide to take a trip somewhere and do mostly highway driving.
I think you are doing great. To get 4 you probably have to use acc at 65 even on a flat road with normal temperature setting as you would in ice cars.
 
I am leaving trip B as is since I picked up the car as a lifetime number. Trip A is what I reset for a specific trip. In mid 50s weather 50 50 highway and surface at my average in 700 miles on the odometer on pure awd is 3.5 miles per kWH. Not crazy acceleration and not at all hyper miling.
 
This inflator is really the Lucid Dream’s equivalent in terms of its performance. No software update needed, though.
I expected the tire pressure to go down but surprised that since Dec 30th it is exactly 49 when cold on all the tires mid 50s day and mid to high 30s at night.
 
So on my first drive after charging, I'm happy to say I'm getting 4.5 kWh driving in the same conditions as mentioned previously. This trip was local driving, smooth mode, and high regenerative setting.
PXL_20230211_200622198.jpg
 
I got an interesting AAA Electric Vehicle Range testing report recently https://www.aaa.com/AAA/common/AAR/files/AAA-Electric-Vehicle-Range-Testing-Report.pdf . All kinds of data in there for 5 test cars (BMW i3, Bolt, Leaf, Tesla 75D and VW e Golf), but the interesting part for me was analysis of the effect of temperature on range. Here is a snippet of the report: With the HVAC engaged, the driving range and equivalent fuel economy were significantly reduced for all drive types (city, highway, aggressive) at 20°F. Compared to 75°F with HVAC off, the combined driving range and combined MPGe were reduced by 50 percent and 46 percent, respectively. At 95°F with the HVAC engaged, the driving range and equivalent fuel economy were reduced for all drive types. However, reductions were less severe than corresponding reductions exhibited at 20°F. Compared to 75°F, the combined driving range and equivalent fuel economy were reduced by 21 percent and 22 percent, respectively.
 
Beautiful 60 degree day today and my efficiency is better than ever. Small sample size but woohoo 400 mi extrapolated range! (Excuse the fingerprints)

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I read a reddit article the other day from a New England driver who had just taken delivery for the Rivian R1S. Their range dropped to barely 50% during peak cold days of Polar Vortex a few weeks back. I drive a Model S right now and usually am driving at 80+ and I get 40%+ range drop in winter. My daily commute is 60 miles round trip and I usually have to charge every third day. By now, we all should assume that with an EV, in winter, range would easily drop 30%-50% depending upon driving and conditions. A 200+ mile range in winter for Lucid is still pretty good. Once we accept it, life is easy and we can get on with enjoying the car.
 
I read a reddit article the other day from a New England driver who had just taken delivery for the Rivian R1S. Their range dropped to barely 50% during peak cold days of Polar Vortex a few weeks back. I drive a Model S right now and usually am driving at 80+ and I get 40%+ range drop in winter. My daily commute is 60 miles round trip and I usually have to charge every third day. By now, we all should assume that with an EV, in winter, range would easily drop 30%-50% depending upon driving and conditions. A 200+ mile range in winter for Lucid is still pretty good. Once we accept it, life is easy and we can get on with enjoying the car.
Agree. This is part of due diligence. Before purchasing a newer technology like an electric vehicle, and especially from a brand new company, you must do your due diligence related to your own life. If high range is important to you and you live in a cold climate, an EV is not your best option. People do not do the research, depend on marketing materials that are obviously biased in favor of selling the product, and then buy the car and complain. I don’t understand that.
 
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