Hardwire your home charging station! Or use a Hubbel / Bryant / Cooper 14-50 receptacle, not Leviton

[emoylv]

Good point, and we can be specific. If you choose to have your electrician install a 14-50 outlet instead of hardwiring your charging station, make sure they one of these industrial-spec receptacles. They'll cost in the range of $50-$100 and have a wiring torque spec of 75 in-lb:

Hubbell HBL9450A https://hubbellcdn.com/specsheet/WIRING_HBL9450A_spec.pdf
Cooper Eaton 5754N https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.5754N.pdf
Bryant 9450FR https://hciapps.hubbell.com/hcipunchout/LiteraturePDFS/3B/Original_BSS57.pdf

AVOID $9-$15 residential grade receptacles like these with a 25 in-lb wiring torque spec:
Leviton 279
Legrand / Pass and Seymour 3894
Cooper Electric 30837
Cooper Eaton 1258
Hubbell RR450F
Utilitech 2106S
ELEGRP 2106S

Easy way to tell: The correct receptacles are 2.44" in diameter, almost two and a half inches. The cheapies are 2.1" or barely over 2" in diameter. They will use different sized cover plates.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

I will gladly buy you a beer if you come to my house and tell me what I need to do with my panel and sub panels.

Only if I can stay at the Del. And seafood!

 

[borski]

I get it. (I am a subpanel addict) I just hope that some of the newbies here do not look at your extensive set up and think what you did is "required" for a good home charging.

Running a pair of #2AWG for a 100 amp circuit is not for the faint of heart. My thinking is I do not want to discourage anyone from thinking that doing a hardwired 50 amp circuit for 40 amp charging, OR a 60 amp circuit for 48 amp charging will not work admirably for them - for a long time to come. In other words, I do not want someone to do home charging with a splitter on an old dryer 240v outlet because they think the alternative to that is a multi thousand dollar 100 amp install.

Mine is *definitely* overkill; I just had the space and the additional cost was not that crazy, aside from the nominal additional cost of the Lucid charger.

The prior setup was two very inconveniently placed 14-50 plugs, both outside the garage (previous owners had an RV and an EV).

So rather than dealing with the nonsense, I figured if I was going to be re-running wiring anyway, may as well do it the way I want to do it and maximize possible power output.

Now there’s a 3D printer in the garage, so the Wallbox Power Boost is even more useful.

But again: definitely overkill. Nobody *needs* my setup. I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t super convenient though.

(Especially when I forget to plug in and can still get a quick fast charge in the morning before leaving)

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

Mine is *definitely* overkill; I just had the space and the additional cost was not that crazy, aside from the nominal additional cost of the Lucid charger.

The prior setup was two very inconveniently placed 14-50 plugs, both outside the garage (previous owners had an RV and an EV).

So rather than dealing with the nonsense, I figured if I was going to be re-running wiring anyway, may as well do it the way I want to do it and maximize possible power output.

Now there’s a 3D printer in the garage, so the Wallbox Power Boost is even more useful.

But again: definitely overkill. Nobody *needs* my setup. I’d be lying if I said it wasn’t super convenient though.

(Especially when I forget to plug in and can still get a quick fast charge in the morning before leaving)

It's all because you DON'T GET ENOUGH SLEEP!!!

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

Easy way to tell: The correct receptacles are 2.44" in diameter, almost two and a half inches. The cheapies are 2.1" or barely over 2" in diameter. They will use different sized cover plates.

I thought they were 2.48 but who's counting . Ah, that's the hole size in the plate....

People bitch about getting the larger plate. Amazon sells the correct Hubbell in stainless. As does Zoro. About $14.

Great post by the way. Damn easy way to check if you have a residential or industrial receptacle.

And, you used the word the magic word receptacle! Only people that have to read the damn NEC use that defined word. Even @DeaneG uses Outlet, but he is a real engineer, not a sparky. We still love him.
sparky

 

[borski]

It's all because you DON'T GET ENOUGH SLEEP!!!

ok mom

 

[emoylv]

I thought they were 2.48 but who's counting . Ah, that's the hole size in the plate....

People bitch about getting the larger plate. Amazon sells the correct Hubbell in stainless. As does Zoro. About $14.

Great post by the way. Damn easy way to check if you have a residential or industrial receptacle.

And, you used the word the magic word receptacle! Only people that have to read the damn NEC use that defined word. Even @DeaneG uses Outlet, but he is a real engineer, not a sparky. We still love him.
sparky

40 years as an enginerd! Not electrical but had to learn the NEC handbook extremely well. I guess some of it stuck

 

[PompousAss]

Perhaps another stupid question:

I plan to install a permanent charger in the garage, but we also have a shed/shop/whatever you want to call it with separately metered electricity. In that panel there is a 50 amp breaker pair that once powered a hot tub but is now unused.

My wild idea is to use that breaker (and the wiring, if it's sufficient) to run 50 amp service to an A/B switch. Downstream from that switch I would install one 14-50 outlet inside the shop and a second one on the wall outside. Only one at a time would be hot.

Part of the motivation for this is that we frequently have this problem at our house called "crap in the way". It would also give me an outside 240V source so folks with EVs or RVs would have a power source when they visit.

So, stupid idea? I've always said I know just enough about electrical wiring to get myself killed someday.

 

[emoylv]

Perhaps another stupid question:

I plan to install a permanent charger in the garage, but we also have a shed/shop/whatever you want to call it with separately metered electricity. In that panel there is a 50 amp breaker pair that once powered a hot tub but is now unused.

My wild idea is to use that breaker (and the wiring, if it's sufficient) to run 50 amp service to an A/B switch. Downstream from that switch I would install one 14-50 outlet inside the shop and a second one on the wall outside. Only one at a time would be hot.

Part of the motivation for this is that we frequently have this problem at our house called "crap in the way". It would also give me an outside 240V source so folks with EVs or RVs would have a power source when they visit.

So, stupid idea? I've always said I know just enough about electrical wiring to get myself killed someday.

Great idea. I did something similar in my other garage for an air compressor and a welder with full understanding that I would only use one of them at a time.

 

[DeaneG]

... In that panel there is a 50 amp breaker pair that once powered a hot tub but is now unused.

My wild idea is to use that breaker (and the wiring, if it's sufficient) to run 50 amp service to an A/B switch. Downstream from that switch I would install one 14-50 outlet inside the shop and a second one on the wall outside. Only one at a time would be hot.

Neocharge, Splitvolt, Lectron all make plug-and-play devices to "smart split" a single 30A or 50A circuit to two loads without requiring a manual A/B switch or creating danger of overloading the circuit. Neocharge is UL listed, haven't checked the others lately.

 

[blueice89]

If you could distill this down to a few of the most important thoughts, I would love to include it in the FAQ on www.lucidupdates.com. The question would be: “I am planning on installing a charger in my garage. What are some important facts that I or my electrician should know? “

Say it with me Industrial grade never Leviton

 

[emoylv]

Say it with me Industrial grade never LevitonView attachment 15708

Almost 100% correct. You can run #6 Romex (not in conduit) for 50A breaker drawing 40A at the charger - or you can run #8 THHN/THWN-2 in conduit. You'll not only save a wire size but #8 is more pliable than #6.

 

[Canyonero!]

All the warnings on electrical lug torque settings talk about the danger of not getting HIGH enough. I have never seen an over tightening caution.

Well, if you pull out a six-foot cheater bar and go to town, you'll probably break the connectors.

 

[emoylv]

Well, if you pull out a six-foot cheater bar and go to town, you'll probably break the connectors.

Instructions say 75in-lbs, doesn't say it's the minimum. I'd say torque it to 75, wait 15 minutes, re-torque to 75 and call it good. No need to overthink it.

 

[scal_air]

I recently had a solar system installed and they told me that they would also install a 220 outlet for my EV. I told them, please make it industrial grade. It looked good when they installed it - a step up from the Home Depot varieties but when I measured it, the round portion was around 2" in diameter. I remember reading a post that it should be larger - 2 1/4". I bought a Bryant (it measures 2 3/8") and important - the faceplate for that receptacle! Looking at the Bryant, it is beefier compared to the one they installed and had them return. At first the electrician told me they had used the other receptacle for many EV installations without problems. Afterwards, he understood why I wanted to change because he saw the Bryant was better.
Long story short, the round portion of the receptacle of an industrial outlet is larger than 2". Don't settle for less!

 

[emoylv]

If you could distill this down to a few of the most important thoughts, I would love to include it in the FAQ on www.lucidupdates.com. The question would be: “I am planning on installing a charger in my garage. What are some important facts that I or my electrician should know? “

Bobby,

Here's my short stab at it for starters. Others please chime in to add, subtract or correct. I am using 40A as the de facto norm. Others can add for 48A charging, etc.


For 40-amp charging, you need a 50A breaker, #6 Romex or #8 THHN/THWN-2 (in conduit). This is for wire runs of less than 100 feet and applies to both hard-wiring and installing a receptacle. This should cover probably 90% of the people on this forum. Check your local codes to see if running conduit is a must or if you need a permit.

Option 1: If you are buying a separate Level 2 charger (ChargePoint, Emporia, Autel, Grizzl-E, JuiceBox), you should consider hard-wiring as the preferred option. It eliminates a connection point (receptacle). If you’re looking to charge at 48-amps or higher (for those chargers that are capable), hard-wiring is your ONLY option.
Option 2: If you are installing a 14-50 receptacle (for using the Lucid-supplied mobile charger), use only Bryant Electric 9450R, Hubbell HBL9450A, or Eaton 5754N. Do NOT allow your electrician to substitute a cheaper receptacle. They are easily identifiable by the diameter of the black receptacle, approx. 2.44”. The cheap plastic ones are 2” in diameter. Be sure to purchase the correct cover plate. Leviton SL701 is stainless steel, works nicely and looks sharp. There are others. Torque connections to 75 in-lbs, wait 15 minutes, then re-torque to 75 in-lbs. Recommendation: Leave the charger plugged in unless/until you need it for a trip. Saves wear and tear on the receptacle's contacts.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

Bobby,

Here's my short stab at it for starters. Others please chime in to add, subtract or correct. I am using 40A as the de facto norm. Others can add for 48A charging, etc.


For 40-amp charging, you need a 50A breaker, #6 Romex or #8 THHN/THWN-2 (in conduit). This is for wire runs of less than 100 feet and applies to both hard-wiring and installing a receptacle. This should cover probably 90% of the people on this forum. Check your local codes to see if running conduit is a must or if you need a permit.

Option 1: If you are buying a separate Level 2 charger (ChargePoint, Emporia, Autel, Grizzl-E, JuiceBox), you should consider hard-wiring as the preferred option. It eliminates a connection point (receptacle). If you’re looking to charge at 48-amps or higher (for those chargers that are capable), hard-wiring is your ONLY option.
Option 2: If you are installing a 14-50 receptacle (for using the Lucid-supplied mobile charger), use only Bryant Electric 9450R, Hubbell HBL9450A, or Eaton 5754N. Do NOT allow your electrician to substitute a cheaper receptacle. They are easily identifiable by the diameter of the black receptacle, approx. 2.44”. The cheap plastic ones are 2” in diameter. Be sure to purchase the correct cover plate. Leviton SL701 is stainless steel, works nicely and looks sharp. There are others. Torque connections to 75 in-lbs, wait 15 minutes, then re-torque to 75 in-lbs. Recommendation: Leave the charger plugged in unless/until you need it for a trip. Saves wear and tear on the receptacle's contacts.

Incredibly well written. Bravo!! Kudos for pointing out retorquing. Many sparkies fail that test.

48A hardwired charging is easy. Use 6awg THHN-THWN in 3/4" PVC or metal conduit for the two current conductors, with a 8 or 10 awg for ground. No neutral. Use a 60A breaker. With a ChargePoint service equipment (charger) your charge rate is 11.5 kw, vs 9.6 with 40A.

And, of course, do everything @emoylv said above.

 

[emoylv]

Incredibly well written. Bravo!! Kudos for pointing out retorquing. Many sparkies fail that test.

48A hardwired charging is easy. Use 6awg THHN-THWN in 3/4" PVC or metal conduit for the two current conductors, with a 8 or 10 awg for ground. No neutral. Use a 60A breaker. With a ChargePoint service equipment (charger) your charge rate is 11.5 kw, vs 9.6 with 40A.

And, of course, do everything @emoylv said above.

Excellent! I would add: Do NOT let your electrician substitute aluminum wire. Although it is allowable by NEC, the lugs on your EVSE will probably be too small and you may void your EVSE warranty.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

Excellent! I would add: Do NOT let your electrician substitute aluminum wire. Although it is allowable by NEC, the lugs on your EVSE will probably be too small and you may void your EVSE warranty.

Bite your tongue using the A word truly false economy. And it introduces a new set of variables for the installer to F-up, like oxidation. It would not surprise me if the Hubbell receptacle and CP service equipment said CU Only.

 

[emoylv]

Bite your tongue using the A word truly false economy. And it introduces a new set of variables for the installer to F-up, like oxidation. It would not surprise me if the Hubbell receptacle and CP service equipment said CU Only.

Tongue bit! Hubbell does say CU only but in very small letters lol!