Charging Speed

Choose carefully. Get the CORRECT Hubbell. Too many house fires already. If you search the EV forums, only two NEMA 14-50s are recommended. The Hubbell hbl 9450A and the Bryant 9450FR. Hubbell makes Bryant. They are not cheap. $50-90. There is a $25 Hubbell that is slightly better than the HD Leviton $12 pure crap. This Hubbell Rr45fw, but is not recommended for long term EV charging.

The huge issue the NEC is addressing is that 95% of the 14-50s are NOT rated for continuous duty. Dryers and stoves are not continuous duty. Who has an oven on full blast 40 amps, for 7 hours? Simply put, a cheap, HD dryer grade receptacle used long term for EV will melt. I have seen reports where the distergrating receptacle took out the breaker and panel. Continuous duty is the reason our breakers and conductors have an additional 25% safety factor.

The Hubbell and Bryant recommended above are old school. Twice as deep as Leviton, twice as heavy, made for continuous duty, and proper big lugs for proper conductor torquing. Thick copper and BAKELITE. Remember BAKELITE? Guess why? It does not burn.

And @DeaneG , sorry to report the Cooper and Pass & Seymour are are only slightly less bad than Leviton.
Thanks for this. I just ordered the Bryant from Amazon, will replace my UL-approved receptacle.
 
Keep in mind the PlugShare is owned by EVGo. I am not saying that they cheat the numbers versus other companies but broken chargers when there are still working chargers do not have much impact on the score. It seems PlugShare is trying to make it all look better than it is.
I only look at EA ratings via PlugShare, so that’s pretty ironic.
 
Have you used an EVgo 350kW charger? If so, was it faster than EA? I’m considering a 2 hour drive to Phoenix just to try one.
In my experience, not really. I drained my car to 2% specifically to test EVGo 350 and got 174 with 15 minutes of preconditioning. EVgo still has the same limits as EAz either they work well or they dont.
 
In my experience, not really. I drained my car to 2% specifically to test EVGo 350 and got 174 with 15 minutes of preconditioning. EVgo still has the same limits as EAz either they work well or they dont.
I assume the second side of the 350kW charger wasn’t in use since they power share. Thanks you just saved me a day traveling to Phoenix in 117° heat.
 
Thanks for this. I just ordered the Bryant from Amazon, will replace my UL-approved receptacle.
Perfect. Top tip: tighten the lugs twice. The copper wire is supposed to compress a bit. That is what keeps the lug tight after years of heat and cool cycles for normal use. I was taught to fully tighten, and a few minutes later, tighten again. You usually get another 1/16- 1/8 turn. A good thing. And these plugs can take lots of torque. Lots.

You can tell these are true industrial. No flat blade screw lugs like Leviton. The Hubbell Bryant industrial receptacles use a Hex bit for the lugs for using a torque screwdriver. no screws that cam out. And best practices on commercial industrial installs is to use an electricians torque wrench. You can always tell a great electrician by his torque screwdrivers.

The Leviton are not bad, just not designed for EV charging. They will last forever for stoves and dryers. And the UL approval is appropriate for such typical residential use. The new NEC will address this - too many house fires. Tesla even has a nifty temp probe on its charging plug that cuts amperage in half if the plug gets too hot, due to long term use of home grade receptacle.
 
Have you used an EVgo 350kW charger? If so, was it faster than EA? I’m considering a 2 hour drive to Phoenix just to try one.
I did once and it performed as expected.
 
Perfect. Top tip: tighten the lugs twice. The copper wire is supposed to compress a bit. That is what keeps the lug tight after years of heat and cool cycles for normal use. I was taught to fully tighten, and a few minutes later, tighten again. You usually get another 1/16- 1/8 turn. A good thing. And these plugs can take lots of torque. Lots.

You can tell these are true industrial. No flat blade screw lugs like Leviton. The Hubbell Bryant industrial receptacles use a Hex bit for the lugs for using a torque screwdriver. no screws that cam out. And best practices on commercial industrial installs is to use an electricians torque wrench. You can always tell a great electrician by his torque screwdrivers.

The Leviton are not bad, just not designed for EV charging. They will last forever for stoves and dryers. And the UL approval is appropriate for such typical residential use. The new NEC will address this - too many house fires. Tesla even has a nifty temp probe on its charging plug that cuts amperage in half if the plug gets too hot, due to long term use of home grade receptacle.
Thank you for the tips. I found out that torque value is 75 inch-lbs for the lugs. Also, it will need a different faceplate (larger hole diameter).
 
Thank you for the tips. I found out that torque value is 75 inch-lbs for the lugs. Also, it will need a different faceplate (larger hole diameter).
I bought an inexpensive torque screwdriver on Amazon for this sort of thing. Works great up to 75 in-lb.
 
Also, it will need a different faceplate (larger hole diameter).
Of course, Hubbell makes the correct plate (Amz sells it) - the opening is 2 15/32. People on Amz bitch and moan about the "unique size" without thinking that is BECAUSE this receptable is build like a brick shit house, that cannot overheat, is the reason is beefier and has a bigger receptable face plate.
 
I bought an inexpensive torque screwdriver on Amazon for this sort of thing. Works great up to 75 in-lb.
Wow, there are probably more torque screwdrivers mentioned here than many sparky's have. An electronics company I ran years ago had racks of single purpose, defined torque, torque screwdrivers for ever screw and bolt in the products. All color coded.

Moderately over torqued connections are never an issue especially on industrial products. Its the UNDER tightened ones that create excessive resistance, heat up, melt breakers and panels and start fires. I have seen it first hand. I have seen 6 AWG literally fall out of a breaker - from copper compression and heat/cooling cycles.

I was working on my garage sub panel today. Based on this thread, thought, what the hell, I would check the lugs for the breakers, bus bars. Sure enough, half of them needed a tweak.
 
I bought an inexpensive torque screwdriver on Amazon for this sort of thing. Works great up to 75 in-lb.
Just replaced the receptacle with a Bryant 9450FR. I'm glad I have the 1/4" torque wrench. I don't think these 70+ year-old hands could have "wrenched" 75 in-lbs from a torque screwdriver. The torque wrench made it much easier. "Muscle-ing the receptacle into the J-box wasn't much fun either :cool: I'm fire-proofed, I think.
 
Just replaced the receptacle with a Bryant 9450FR. I'm glad I have the 1/4" torque wrench. I don't think these 70+ year-old hands could have "wrenched" 75 in-lbs from a torque screwdriver. The torque wrench made it much easier. "Muscle-ing the receptacle into the J-box wasn't much fun either :cool: I'm fire-proofed, I think.
Congratulations. One top feature of the Hubbell and Bryant industrial receptacles is the way the conductors enter -- from the bottom. If they entered from the rear, like on the HD grade Levitons, you could NEVER muscle them or fit them into a J box. And you now have one less thing to worry about.
 
... I don't think these 70+ year-old hands could have "wrenched" 75 in-lbs from a torque screwdriver....
Turns out that 75 in-lbs is about my hands' limit too. I was wondering if the torque screwdriver was going to "click" first, or my hand.
 
Turns out that 75 in-lbs is about my hands' limit too. I was wondering if the torque screwdriver was going to "click" first, or my hand.
Here is a bit of trivia. Most of you have heard of the NEC, the National Electric Code, adopted by most states and cities. and MOST think the NEC is to protect people from electric shocks. Not primarily. Its published by the National Fire Protection Association, of fire commissioners. Its primary aim is to prevent fires (and reduce fire insurance). All the regs on wire sizes, max amps and these heavy duty receptacles is there solely to prevent fires, as Smokey would say.
 
On a related and little-known note, UL mark and CE marks are all about safety (fire, shock, radiation, thermal hazard). They have nothing to do with proper product function.
 
The charging curve has improved drastically. This was at the VW Academy/Research Institute in Chattanooga, TN. During the same trip, a station limited me to 150kw.

I've also seen 70+kw over 85%. Lucid is doing some dynamic adjustments vs strict adherence to the 0-100 curve.

Stations will eventually improve across the board. The software challenges are not easy to tackle. Think about it. A station has to function with a Porsche Taycan with no OTAs from 2+ years ago using old standards for protocol the same way as a new Lucid with latest OTA using the newest standards.

Companies hardly want to accept blame for faulty implementation. They will spend weeks arguing over a possible minor fix (1-2 working days) that could be checked by both sides. Throw in the ever growing and diverse offerings of EVs with their own teams plus a growing selection of EV stations... Madness will be the norm for a while yet.
 

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On a related and little-known note, UL mark and CE marks are all about safety (fire, shock, radiation, thermal hazard). They have nothing to do with proper product function.
Very correct, some look at the marks as the Good Housekeeping seal. Still, having a UL, CE CSA or ETL generally means you most likely will not be electrocuted if you do not use the product in the bathtub.

I wonder how much of the electronics on Amazon, with a claimed UL/CE approval, is just a scam. While we are on trivia, UL is purely voluntary. And it is also insurance related.
 
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