Charger FAQ/Explanation

Probably not. The main issue is repeated plugging and unplugging can wear out the outlet, and people do this when they store the cable in their trunk regularly. I wouldn't stress too much about it.

The industrial grade Hubbel 14-50R receptacle is less than $90. A cheaper one is not worth a second thought.
 
You actually have multiple choices. Check the amperage on the breaker to the range. The standard is 50A but it may be 60A if you had a high-end range.

1) If it is 50A, you can either hardwire into an EVSE or 14-50 or 6-50 receptacle. In each of the 3 scenarios, you will set the EVSE at 40A charge rate (80% of 50A is 40A).
2) If it is a 60A, you would want to take advantage of that and hardwire the EVSE, then set the charge rate to 48A (80% of 60A is 48A). Make sure your EVSE supports 48A charge rate.
3) If your main panel is 200A and can support a bigger breaker, then you can consider an EVSE with a more robust charge rate like Lucid's 80A EVSE.

In all cases, you would abandon the wiring to the range, but you will want to either mark the wires for future use or cut them off.
How do I check the amperage on the breaker in the panel? I'm heading home for lunch and to let the dogs out to potty. I want check so I can give the electricians as much info as I can before scheduling quotes later this afternoon.
 
How do I check the amperage on the breaker in the panel? I'm heading home for lunch and to let the dogs out to potty. I want check so I can give the electricians as much info as I can before scheduling quotes later this afternoon.
You could just text them a single clear photo of the breakers. They'll know.
 
How do I check the amperage on the breaker in the panel? I'm heading home for lunch and to let the dogs out to potty. I want check so I can give the electricians as much info as I can before scheduling quotes later this afternoon.
It's usually the number on the big breaker at the top of your panel.
 
It's usually the number on the big breaker at the top of your panel.
No! The BIG breaker at the top of the panel is the capacity of the entire panel! You want the number on the two-pole breaker that will connect to your EVSE. It should hopefully have a number of 50 or higher.
 
No! The BIG breaker at the top of the panel is the capacity of the entire panel! You want the number on the two-pole breaker that will connect to your EVSE. It should hopefully have a number of 50 or higher.
My mistake, I thought they were trying to see if they had 100/200/300 amp service to the house.
 
Fellas, okay here's what I have. It appears emoylv was spot on. My old electric range was on a 50amp breaker so presumably I can just follow either of the suggestions from earlier. Qmerit has quoted me $1,399 for this job. Is that fair price for what I need done?
 

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Fellas, okay here's what I have. It appears emoylv was spot on. My old electric range was on a 50amp breaker so presumably I can just follow either of the suggestions from earlier. Qmerit has quoted me $1,399 for this job. Is that fair price for what I need done?
You have 200 amp service and plenty of open spots in your panel - no need to reuse the range breaker. That's not a bad price depending on how far away from the panel you want to install the charging station.
 
You have 200 amp service and plenty of open spots in your panel - no need to reuse the range breaker. That's not a bad price depending on how far away from the panel you want to install the charging station.
Yeah; in fact, I'd remove the 50A breaker and wiring and put in 100A line and get one of the 80A chargers, because why not futureproof it.
 
Yeah; in fact, I'd remove the 50A breaker and wiring and put in 100A line and get one of the 80A chargers, because why not futureproof it.
The only reason I didn't suggest removing the 50A breaker was my recent regret from putting in a great dual-fuel range in my last kitchen remodel instead of a great induction range. The poster's photo shows plenty of open breaker slots, might as well make it easy to go back to an all-electric range in the future if desired. Seems to be the path forward for new construction and a pro chef told me that (their) induction cooktop gives up nothing to (their) high-output gas cooktop.

But I totally agree on adding the 100A line and breaker, and absent financial constraints, Lucid's 80A charger.
 
The only reason I didn't suggest removing the 50A breaker was my recent regret from putting in a great dual-fuel range in my last kitchen remodel instead of a great induction range. The poster's photo shows plenty of open breaker slots, might as well make it easy to go back to an all-electric range in the future if desired. Seems to be the path forward for new construction and a pro chef told me that (their) induction cooktop gives up nothing to (their) high-output gas cooktop.

But I totally agree on adding the 100A line and breaker, and absent financial constraints, Lucid's 80A charger.
Yeah, fair point. There's also no reason to remove the range breaker anyway, especially if disconnected.
 
Yeah; in fact, I'd remove the 50A breaker and wiring and put in 100A line and get one of the 80A chargers, because why not futureproof it.
Other than Lucid's $1,200 charger, what 80A chargers would you recommend?
 
Juicebox Pro 80 Amp or Clipper Creek CS-100. Both are considerably more expensive than Lucid's offering.
 
If you're going the 40A route, it's fairly straightforward and the cheapest. #6 Romex should be sufficient subject to local codes. Hardwiring (recommended) eliminates a receptacle. I have some #6 NM-B but I was thinking about stripping the sheaf and using ultratite flexible conduit. Conductors are THW. Then I can use a 60A breaker and set my EVSE to 48A effectively adding 20% to charging capacity. Any electricians or double E's out there who can tell me if I'm 1) legal, 2) illegal or 3) about to set my house on fire using this approach?
 
Now that I've finalized my Touring order, I'm trying to come up to speed on the charging considerations. I'm leaning towards a 14-50 plug, thinking that will be sufficient for my needs. I have a 200AMP main panel (on outside wall in backyard) and a sub panel in the garage, right next to my car. Looking at the main panel, the sub panel is fed by a 60AMP breaker. I'm assuming that the 60AMP sub panel is insufficient.
Hopefully the fact I already have a sub panel in the garage helps. Would it be best to upgrade that to a 100AMP sub panel? If so, wondering how big a deal that may be?
 

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Now that I've finalized my Touring order, I'm trying to come up to speed on the charging considerations. I'm leaning towards a 14-50 plug, thinking that will be sufficient for my needs. I have a 200AMP main panel (on outside wall in backyard) and a sub panel in the garage, right next to my car. Looking at the main panel, the sub panel is fed by a 60AMP breaker. I'm assuming that the 60AMP sub panel is insufficient.
Hopefully the fact I already have a sub panel in the garage helps. Would it be best to upgrade that to a 100AMP sub panel? If so, wondering how big a deal that may be?
Yes the 60A sub in the garage is not sufficient. Without knowing the distance to the sub and the size of the wire used, it is not possible to tell what might be easier. You should talk to a couple of electricians and follow their advice on the best approach.
 
Yes the 60A sub in the garage is not sufficient. Without knowing the distance to the sub and the size of the wire used, it is not possible to tell what might be easier. You should talk to a couple of electricians and follow their advice on the best approach.
60A service required #4 Aluminum or #6 Copper; 100A service requires #1 Aluminum or #3 Copper. These numbers are for runs under 100 feet. Your biggest issue is how to run the wires. If it's behind finished drywall, you have to factor in making holes in the drywall sufficient to run the wires, whether conduit is required, patching the drywall, refinishing and painting. If you're going to run wires externally in conduit, you avoid some costs at the expense of aesthetics. All the EVSE's that I've researched say to run copper.
 
I ended up purchasing the Electricfy America Homestation last night via Amazon and took advantage of the $35.00 off deal. I went with EA over the other level 2's for a few reasons.

1) The seemless integration of the Homestation in the EA app so I can track both my home and DCFC stats.

2) Pretty decent reviews.

3) Ability to hardwire the unit. I saw a video and pictures of an EV user's HEMA 14-50 plug melting from the heat and I'm not taking any chances. I've already experienced one garage fire in my lifetime and that was more than enough for me.

4) Aesthetics!! The EA Homestation looks great with a nice design.

I'll report back with photos once I get it installed.
 

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60A service required #4 Aluminum or #6 Copper; 100A service requires #1 Aluminum or #3 Copper. These numbers are for runs under 100 feet. Your biggest issue is how to run the wires. If it's behind finished drywall, you have to factor in making holes in the drywall sufficient to run the wires, whether conduit is required, patching the drywall, refinishing and painting. If you're going to run wires externally in conduit, you avoid some costs at the expense of aesthetics. All the EVSE's that I've researched say to run copper.
Thanks for the info. Fortunately the run would be through an unfinished attic space, perhaps 50ft. I’ll reach out to a couple of electricians as recommended to review.
 
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