Post Realistic Mileage Here….

I was referring to the part where you implied I didn't have common sense, I feel like we are at a point with this similar to a company who makes you sign a T&C with 10 pages and has size 6 font and now you're coming back to me with "ya, didn't you read it?!" If you think for a second I took Lucids range performance, and I factored in the weight of the car, and size of the tires and then cross referenced that with that of a Kia EV or your favorite, a Chevy Bolt I don't think I'm the one who's lacking common sense...
Ah probably should keep this from spiraling down into a thread closure. Tones can come across differently in text and I can assure you @hydbob was only pointing to some facts with no derogatory tone meaning. I wouldn’t look too into it.

Many of us are just candid by nature.
 
Ah probably should keep this from spiraling down into a thread closure. Tones can come across differently in text and I can assure you @hydbob was only pointing to some facts with no derogatory tone meaning. I wouldn’t look too into it.

Many of us are just candid by nature.
Notes we can move on I won’t mention my range again ;)
 
I was referring to the part where you implied I didn't have common sense, I feel like we are at a point with this similar to a company who makes you sign a T&C with 10 pages and has size 6 font and now you're coming back to me with "ya, didn't you read it?!" If you think for a second I took Lucids range performance, and I factored in the weight of the car, and size of the tires and then cross referenced that with that of a Kia EV or your favorite, a Chevy Bolt I don't think I'm the one who's lacking common sense...
Yes, sorry did not mean to offend you by my comment. You will know when I mean to offend =)
 
For city driving, I think the key is how long is your trip and how much time you are spending not moving at all. I will do the experiment of driving from my home to work with the Touring and the Chevy Volt and see what the usage difference is. Should be very straight forward.
 
I'd say, Chevy bolt is an insult to some and the Holly Grail to others.
Well, every niche..has it's place.
And why not.
 
I'd say, Chevy bolt is an insult to some and the Holly Grail to others.
Well, every niche..has it's place.
And why not.
I talked to a dude at one of these earth day events who's LIFETIME usage on his Bolt for the past 3 years is 4.9mi/kwh.
 
The weather here is getting warmer so I've been able to test out my range outside of cold weather insults.
  • winter - 19" aftermarket, non-aero wheels, Bridgestone LM winter tires, 49 psi, temps of -5C to +2C, average 3.8 km/kwh (2.38 mi/kwh), 50% hwy @ 70-72 mph and 50% city, max regen, smooth
  • current (trying to max efficiency) - Same 19" wheels/tires, same psi, temp 16-20C, average 6.4 km/kwh (4 mi/kwh) 80% hwy @ 56.25 mph (90km/h), 20% city, max regen, smooth
  • current (driving normally) - same 19" wheels/tires, same psi, temp 15-18C, average 5.6 km/kwh (3.5 mi/kwh) 80% hwy @ 70-75 mph, 20% city, max regen, smooth.
What I've learned is 1) car takes a huge hit (~40%) in the winter, probably partly due to lack of heat pump 2) in the warmer weather it is possible to get close to EPA if I really tried driving slowly but I'm not sure I can really get to EPA, which is 4.6 mi/kwh, I think
 
The weather here is getting warmer so I've been able to test out my range outside of cold weather insults.
  • winter - 19" aftermarket, non-aero wheels, Bridgestone LM winter tires, 49 psi, temps of -5C to +2C, average 3.8 km/kwh (2.38 mi/kwh), 50% hwy @ 70-72 mph and 50% city, max regen, smooth
  • current (trying to max efficiency) - Same 19" wheels/tires, same psi, temp 16-20C, average 6.4 km/kwh (4 mi/kwh) 80% hwy @ 56.25 mph (90km/h), 20% city, max regen, smooth
  • current (driving normally) - same 19" wheels/tires, same psi, temp 15-18C, average 5.6 km/kwh (3.5 mi/kwh) 80% hwy @ 70-75 mph, 20% city, max regen, smooth.
What I've learned is 1) car takes a huge hit (~40%) in the winter, probably partly due to lack of heat pump 2) in the warmer weather it is possible to get close to EPA if I really tried driving slowly but I'm not sure I can really get to EPA, which is 4.6 mi/kwh, I think
I'd think that swapping to all seasons would also help no?
 
AGT 21", Los Angeles, mix of city and freeway driving normal for this area. 2600 miles on a car since September.

Only once was I able to put 280 miles on a full charge to 410 miles. Every single time other than that was 240-250 miles. That is 2.3-2.5. Rarely did I see 2.8 before the SW upgrade. Never saw 3.0 or 300 miles.

I was told on this forum and by a guy at Lucid Beverly Hills store the battery needs 5-7K miles to go to full capacity. Meaning it will take me 1.5 years to get there. I don't find it acceptable.

Brought it to the store officially to have them look at the issue. Was told it is probably the way I drive. Well, I'm driving normally. Empty freeway I go 10-15 over the limit. City - it is LA. I'm always in Smooth, never went to Sprint even - the car has more than enough power for city life.

Right now the car is at the body shop for the third month after an accident. Once done, I plan to take it in. If the problem is not admitted and addressed, instead the blame is assigned to me, I will probably involve a Lemon Law attorney. This is not what I have paid for.
How in the world would this qualify for a lemon law? As stated above by @hydbob, if you're mostly doing stop and go LA traffic on 21s, or driving 75-80 on the highway, your efficiency is going to be bad. It's just the physics of it all. Try taking a highway trip going 65-70 mph for a couple of hours and you'll see your efficiency numbers skyrocket (within reason given the 21s). I recently drove to LA from 3 hours away having set HA to 72 and got 3.7 mi/kWh, a personal best. My lifetime is 2.9 mi/kWh with a mix of highway and city and no cares about how fast I go or how quickly I accelerate.
 
AGT 21", Los Angeles, mix of city and freeway driving normal for this area. 2600 miles on a car since September.

Only once was I able to put 280 miles on a full charge to 410 miles. Every single time other than that was 240-250 miles. That is 2.3-2.5. Rarely did I see 2.8 before the SW upgrade. Never saw 3.0 or 300 miles.

I was told on this forum and by a guy at Lucid Beverly Hills store the battery needs 5-7K miles to go to full capacity. Meaning it will take me 1.5 years to get there. I don't find it acceptable.

Brought it to the store officially to have them look at the issue. Was told it is probably the way I drive. Well, I'm driving normally. Empty freeway I go 10-15 over the limit. City - it is LA. I'm always in Smooth, never went to Sprint even - the car has more than enough power for city life.

Right now the car is at the body shop for the third month after an accident. Once done, I plan to take it in. If the problem is not admitted and addressed, instead the blame is assigned to me, I will probably involve a Lemon Law attorney. This is not what I have paid for.
Drive 60mph MAX and accelerate very conservatively. You will achieve the EPA efficiency. I have done so in my GT. It’s no fun though!

Source: https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2015-10/hwfetdds.gif
 
What I find helpful is remembering that EPA numbers are about what’s possible, not what’s typical.

I never had an ICE car that regularly got EPA rated mileage either. Because I don’t drive around like I’m testing for efficiency.

I’d say I do more regular city driving than highway, so I’m never surprised at 3.2 mi/kWh. In winter it’s a bit less. If I take some highway trips, as people have said here, it quickly shoots up.

It never matters in the city, because I’m not likely to do over 240 miles of city driving in a day, anyway.

Sure, I’m paying a bit more in electricity when I do a lot of city driving, but that’s measured in pennies. I guess I don’t see much value in obsessing over it is all.
 
I have put about 4,000 miles on my AGT with 21” wheels. I have averaged 3.4 mi/kWh since the day I picked the car up. 99% Smooth and 1 % Swift. Only rarely have I accelerated aggressively. About 20% has been highway driving. Scottsdale weather.

Should I be doing better than 3.4?
That seems about right for 21"
 
I'm confused how my previous statement was aggressive or implying that you were inept. Just stating simple facts, the Lucid, being a heavy car will not be as efficient in city driving as a lighter car like the bolt. If your driving is mostly city and you want an efficient vehicle for that, it just needs to be a lighter car. Referencing @thecodingart post above mine, the Kia Niro EV is 3,071 lbs vs Lucid GT 5236 lbs. Physically moving an extra TON of weight is not going to be energy efficient. Just to add to it, the Kia Niro EV tires are 215/55R17 compared to the GT 21s of 265 rear, 245 front. That is also a BIG difference in tire width which is more rolling resistance.
Wait how is it 3000 pounds? Thats light even in terms of gasoline cars! And its still a 65 kwh battery, being a suv.
 
Notes we can move on I won’t mention my range again ;)
Sure you can mention your range. If you met @hydbob you will know that he was just talking logically and nothing more. Anyway, if you would like to see better efficiency in the city, the only thing you can do is control the acceleration and keep the Power Meter to 1 o clock max and try to ease of the pedal to slow to come to a stop and let the Power Meter show 10 or 11 o clock and drive at least 5 over the posted limited because the car does best between 40 and 60 I think.
 
because the car does best between 40 and 60 I think.
There was a You Tube video last year showing 700 miles of range. Lucid told that group that 28 mph would maximize range so that is what they used. No need to speed to maximize range.
 
There was a You Tube video last year showing 700 miles of range. Lucid told that group that 28 mph would maximize range so that is what they used. No need to speed to maximize range.
I see. I thought that there is a critical speed when I see the power meter. It seemed to show less power consumed at 40 vs 30. I will check again.
 
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