Post Realistic Mileage Here….

[Coltonw011]

I’ve been in this range debate for over a year now since having my car. 19” GT, prior to winter (~4000 miles ago) I was a 4.1 mi/kWh average. As I stand at a tick over 12k miles, and a very harsh winter, my lifetime average dipped to 3.9. By the time the end of summer rolls around, I’ll be at 4.1 again without a doubt. The 21” folks definitely have a tougher challenge to achieve greater range, but for those of you on 19” (I have very limited data on 20”) that aren’t getting better range, either take your foot out of it, or don’t complain about the range. As you’ll see most of the comments state they “can’t” drive this car slow, it’s actually quite easy to do so if you want to achieve better range. Nothing is a sham here, some climates are much more forgiving than others and I am fortunate to find myself in California where EVs have a better chance of seeing better results. I will be doing my own range test when temps are warmer (and I finally get my car back) as I’ve done a 450 mile trip with 7k elevation gain without charging. If you want epa results, drive like the epa test. For most of you, you won’t be able to as you love the acceleration of the car (it’s addicting and understandable), for those of you who are “disappointed” by the range, take your foot out of it and see what happens. I have no doubt that I could achieve those epa numbers, I just have the patience to do so when I actually want to see them.

 

[HariK]

Do what the rest of us do and swap it to percentage instead. Then do some math to figure out how much mileage you have remaining. For my personal use case, I can take the % remaining and just multiple by 3 for quick and dirty math.

Exactly. Once you pick the 3 x per % baseline, you can discount it say 20% to 30% if you feel like driving faster or you know that you are going to drive up hill and need to charge etc. iI is really cold when you drive and below freezing, perhaps discount 40%? Easy math in the head to multiply by 3 and discount.

 

[Bobby]

Exactly. Once you pick the 3 x per % baseline, you can discount it say 20% to 30% if you feel like driving faster or you know that you are going to drive up hill and need to charge etc. iI is really cold when you drive and below freezing, perhaps discount 40%? Easy math in the head to multiply by 3 and discount.

Agree. Easy enough math. The car should do it by itself, though.

 

[xponents]

Agree. Easy enough math. The car should do it by itself, though.

Feature suggestions perhaps?

 

[sk8ndad]

Agree. Easy enough math. The car should do it by itself, though.

I can just hear the debate in the software room. No matter what they choose, they will be wrong. If you take the average mi/kWh over the last x miles it can really flex based on the conditions. On my last trip I had times where I was over 6 mi/kWh (back country road) and coming off mountains it was infinity... Going up the mountain was probably 2. So what's a programmer to do? So using the EPA number is not a bad place to be.

 

[msav2000]

AGT 21", Los Angeles, mix of city and freeway driving normal for this area. 2600 miles on a car since September.

Only once was I able to put 280 miles on a full charge to 410 miles. Every single time other than that was 240-250 miles. That is 2.3-2.5. Rarely did I see 2.8 before the SW upgrade. Never saw 3.0 or 300 miles.

I was told on this forum and by a guy at Lucid Beverly Hills store the battery needs 5-7K miles to go to full capacity. Meaning it will take me 1.5 years to get there. I don't find it acceptable.

Brought it to the store officially to have them look at the issue. Was told it is probably the way I drive. Well, I'm driving normally. Empty freeway I go 10-15 over the limit. City - it is LA. I'm always in Smooth, never went to Sprint even - the car has more than enough power for city life.

Right now the car is at the body shop for the third month after an accident. Once done, I plan to take it in. If the problem is not admitted and addressed, instead the blame is assigned to me, I will probably involve a Lemon Law attorney. This is not what I have paid for.

 

[pjdcorp]

Sham? Certainly not.

Averaging 2.7 mi/kWh in the winter with temperatures typically between 30-50 (Huntsville, AL). Spring time has seen a boost to 3.1 mi/kWh with lifetime average of 2.9 mi/kWh.

I won't even try to make the claim that I drive it any other way than a hypercar level, performance vehicle. Speed limit signs are suggestions when you drive this car.

For those who want higher mi/kWh, which I have achieved when necessary, it is possible. I have ticked as high as 3.7 at 70mph over hundreds of miles from Delaware to Alabama. I have also achieved 3.6-3.7 with a heavy intermix of back country roads and highways in Delaware. For those who desire the higher numbers, I encourage you to go drive a Prius or similar vehicle to recalibrate to the requirements necessary to achieve the higher numbers.

The car is a like a siren luring you ever onwards to blistering acceleration and excessive speeding. The latter being an afterthought, a whim, masked away by the ease of the car's passing.

I've had my Touring on 19" wheels for about 4 months & 6,800 miles. Driving in moderate weather - 40 -75 degrees on a 60/40 mix of highway to local roads I've been in the 3.4 -3.8kw range. That's using A/C, radio & having a bit of a heavy foot on the highway.

 

[Sandvinsd]

I’m on 19” wheels and average 3.5 with 12k+ miles. I have had as much as 4.2 on trips with me driving. Not so much when my wife drives.

 

[Canyonero!]

Taylor swift or swift mode?

 

[SaaSManKS]

I have just under 4k miles on my car, but I live in KS, so the temp is a factor in battery range for me, but I'm averaging consistently between 2.8-3.0 mi/Kwh. But the temp is brutal on the battery!

 

[Bobby]

I have just under 4k miles on my car, but I live in KS, so the temp is a factor in battery range for me, but I'm averaging consistently between 2.8-3.0 mi/Kwh. But the temp is brutal on the battery!

What’s your driving style and average/max speeds?

 

[SaaSManKS]

What’s your driving style and average/max speeds?

It’s all city driving never get on the highway, (think I’ve been able to engage HA two or three times) and some hills, idk how to articulate my driving style, but the little meter stick is usually at the 2 o’clock when I’m accelerating occasionally 3 but far and few, does that help to add context?

 

[hydbob]

It’s all city driving never get on the highway, (think I’ve been able to engage HA two or three times) and some hills, idk how to articulate my driving style, but the little meter stick is usually at the 2 o’clock when I’m accelerating occasionally 3 but far and few, does that help to add context?

Mostly city driving for this car is brutal on efficiency. This car is made to be a GT not a city car if you care about efficiency.

 

[SaaSManKS]

Mostly city driving for this car is brutal on efficiency. This car is made to be a GT not a city car if you care about efficiency.

Ok, so if I'm hearing you correctly, don't buy the car if you live in a city and care about efficiency...

 

[hydbob]

Ok, so if I'm hearing you correctly, don't buy the car if you live in a city and care about efficiency...

Yes, but that would be common sense because it's a 5200lb car. Unless physics doesn't exist, the majority of energy used is getting that chunk of mass moving. If your top priority is efficiency, you need something light like a bolt.

 

[SaaSManKS]

Yes, but that would be common sense because it's a 5200lb car. Unless physics doesn't exist, the majority of energy used is getting that chunk of mass moving. If your top priority is efficiency, you need something light like a bolt.

That’s a pretty aggressive statement especially coming from an admin…I’m sorry that you view me as inept for buying an EV while I live in a city and have a reasonably open mind for range expectations that I’m trying to asking polite questions about. And while I truly appreciate your counter offer of a Chevy bolt, I’ll politely decline. I’m not sure how many owners are weighing purchase between a lucid and a bolt…price tags are a little different

 

[thecodingart]

That’s a pretty aggressive statement especially coming from an admin…I’m sorry that you view me as inept for buying an EV while I live in a city and have a reasonably open mind for range expectations that I’m trying to asking polite questions about. And while I truly appreciate your counter offer of a Chevy bolt, I’ll politely decline. I’m not sure how many owners are weighing purchase between a lucid and a bolt…price tags are a little different

I do understand @hydbob ‘s point. But on the counter end, when driving the Kia Niro (an SUV), I was experiencing an insane boost in efficiency. With the same driving habits and environment of my Lucid.

I love my Lucid, but the range expectations are grossly mis-advertised/represented across the board. My biggest annoyance is with the pure sh*t range estimator implementation.

The weight and battery size play a big roll here, no getting around physics. The end result range is also great, but the efficiency is sort of a**.

Given the Niro had 18” wheels, one day I’ll experiment with 19” wheels over my 21”s just to see what the difference is.

 

[hydbob]

That’s a pretty aggressive statement especially coming from an admin…I’m sorry that you view me as inept for buying an EV while I live in a city and have a reasonably open mind for range expectations that I’m trying to asking polite questions about. And while I truly appreciate your counter offer of a Chevy bolt, I’ll politely decline. I’m not sure how many owners are weighing purchase between a lucid and a bolt…price tags are a little different

I'm confused how my previous statement was aggressive or implying that you were inept. Just stating simple facts, the Lucid, being a heavy car will not be as efficient in city driving as a lighter car like the bolt. If your driving is mostly city and you want an efficient vehicle for that, it just needs to be a lighter car. Referencing @thecodingart post above mine, the Kia Niro EV is 3,071 lbs vs Lucid GT 5236 lbs. Physically moving an extra TON of weight is not going to be energy efficient. Just to add to it, the Kia Niro EV tires are 215/55R17 compared to the GT 21s of 265 rear, 245 front. That is also a BIG difference in tire width which is more rolling resistance.

 

[RM-S8]

@SaaSManKS,
I'm not trying to be difficult, or disrespectful, but maybe, in your city environment, the Uber is the answer?

 

[SaaSManKS]

I'm confused how my previous statement was aggressive or implying that you were inept. Just stating simple facts, the Lucid, being a heavy car will not be as efficient in city driving as a lighter car like the bolt. If your driving is mostly city and you want an efficient vehicle for that, it just needs to be a lighter car. Referencing @thecodingart post above mine, the Kia Niro EV is 3,071 lbs vs Lucid GT 5236 lbs. Physically moving an extra TON of weight is not going to be energy efficient. Just to add to it, the Kia Niro EV tires are 215/55R17 compared to the GT 21s of 265 rear, 245 front. That is also a BIG difference in tire width which is more rolling resistance.

I was referring to the part where you implied I didn't have common sense, I feel like we are at a point with this similar to a company who makes you sign a T&C with 10 pages and has size 6 font and now you're coming back to me with "ya, didn't you read it?!" If you think for a second I took Lucids range performance, and I factored in the weight of the car, and size of the tires and then cross referenced that with that of a Kia EV or your favorite, a Chevy Bolt I don't think I'm the one who's lacking common sense...