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Maybe the 21 inch were a bad idea

Actually, to follow up on my own post... I've had the opposite experience with road hazard warranty through Tire Rack. I've bought a lot of tires from TR over the past 10 years for my Model S. I've blown tires maybe 3 times, and every time their warranty has mostly covered the replacement cost. The downside is that it's a bit of a hassle to get it all sorted out. You might be w/o a car for a while waiting for the tire to ship, so it's good to have a spare. I have a 21" and 19" set for summer and winter, so whenever I had a problem I'd throw on a wheel from the other set for a while.
 
I hit a pot hole last week on the palisades parkway and immediately noticed a slight vibration. On inspection the rims looked ok but I don’t have access to a lift. The car went in the other day for the recall and a factory trim issue and I discover I have 2(!) bent rims on the inboard flange and a tire bubble. Lucid recommends two new rims and a tire. I’ll keep the old rims as I have a guy that works for all the high end dealerships and is a magician with this stuff. I’ll keep them as backup spares and put a tire on one
NJ FTW. Twice got flats in my Model Y with the sport tires. This winter has been pothole city.

Both my WRX and F-Sport had low-profile tires, and Jersey roads never touched them. Maybe the added weight of the EV is too much for traditional “sport” rubber.
 
It’s brutal around here north of NYC. I’ve destroyed 4 17” rims on a BMW I had for years (all dinged and/or cracker on the inside lip). During the day you can avoid the winter/spring potholes by slaloming around them- at night when the roads are wet they can be invisible.
 
after seeing the many complaints in the forum, i wish i got the 19" and removed the covers (i really like the look of 19" someone posted here the other day). since my car is already ready, it's too late now. i'm going to switch out to a 19" as soon as the first tire/wheel failure occurs.
 
My experience with dealer-sold tire warranties is that they are not worth it. As an example, the last and final time I tried this was on a Mini Cooper S. It comes with noisy, poor handling, expensive run-flat tires. The warranty cost $1400 I think, which was roughly the cost of an entire set of tires through the dealer. I bumped a curb (which are made of granite in MA), which cut a huge gouge of rubber out of the sidewall. The sidewall didn't totally fail though, so they refused to replace the tire. A tire with a giant chunk of rubber missing from its sidewall.

So I told them to cancel the remainder of the policy and refund the prorated balance. I got $400 back, which was more than enough to replace that one tire with a not-from-the-dealer one. In fact it was enough cash to cover almost two of them.

Even if Lucid offered an optional road hazard warranty, I'd advise against using it. I see them as a scam by dealers.
Sorry to learn of your experience, but my Audi and Porsche dealer replaced or repaired the two slightly damaged wheels/tires I had.
 
Sorry to learn of your experience, but my Audi and Porsche dealer replaced or repaired the two slightly damaged wheels/tires I had.
The wheels can be refinished for $250 flat per wheel at Lucid, so it’s not awful, just sucks.
 
I hit a pot hole last week on the palisades parkway and immediately noticed a slight vibration. On inspection the rims looked ok but I don’t have access to a lift. The car went in the other day for the recall and a factory trim issue and I discover I have 2(!) bent rims on the inboard flange and a tire bubble. Lucid recommends two new rims and a tire. I’ll keep the old rims as I have a guy that works for all the high end dealerships and is a magician with this stuff. I’ll keep them as backup spares and put a tire on one
Could you give us a little more detail on your tire/rim failure? Such as how fast were you going, how big/deep was the pothole, was this a front/ rear failure on the same pothole, road surface conditions, etc. I would like to know so as to avoid a situation like you encountered. Also any insights you may have that caused such a failure.
 
You will not be able to avoid pot holes if there is another vehicle in front of you. By the time you swerve it’s all over.
 
Could you give us a little more detail on your tire/rim failure? Such as how fast were you going, how big/deep was the pothole, was this a front/ rear failure on the same pothole, road surface conditions, etc. I would like to know so as to avoid a situation like you encountered. Also any insights you may have that caused such a failure.
Going about 65 in the southbound lane of the palisades near bear mountain. Leaned over to adjust something on the pilot panel and when I looked back there was a nice pothole next to a drain culvert. I had traffic to my right so no chance to swerve. The other one I have no clue but hit some smaller holes and frost heaves that should have not done anything. These rims remind me of my old Merc e class with sport package. I had to straighten all 4 ( two twice) over 2 years. Low profile and soft. I ran 19 inch on both the Teslas with no problems for 7 years and I guess I got complacent.
 
Going about 65 in the southbound lane of the palisades near bear mountain. Leaned over to adjust something on the pilot panel and when I looked back there was a nice pothole next to a drain culvert. I had traffic to my right so no chance to swerve. The other one I have no clue but hit some smaller holes and frost heaves that should have not done anything. These rims remind me of my old Merc e class with sport package. I had to straighten all 4 ( two twice) over 2 years. Low profile and soft. I ran 19 inch on both the Teslas with no problems for 7 years and I guess I got complacent.
Perhaps the DE rims are hardier because they’re forged? That might be why I haven’t had the issue…
 
fwiw the wheel description does say the 20" and 21" are for smooth roads only, I imagine that implies "does not handle well on pot holes":
Please note that while 20” and larger wheels can provide superior steering and handling in certain driving situations, they are equipped with low aspect-ratio summer tires and should only be operated on smooth road surfaces. Wheel, tire and suspension damage can occur if operated on rough or damaged road surfaces. Summer tires are designed to best perform in warm weather and are not suitable for cold temperatures nor driving in snow and ice.
 
... are there options to replace the tires themselves to a more all-season 20 inch or 21 inch tire (for those of you that have 21s) rather than having to purchase the 19s for winter time?
PS4 All-seasons would fit the 21's:
 
Interesting that their actual EV tire still hasn’t made the list.
Michelin doesn't currently list any sizes of Pilot Sport EV tire suitable for the Air in any wheel diameter.
 
Michelin doesn't currently list any sizes of Pilot Sport EV tire suitable for the Air in any wheel diameter.
That’s odd, I thought they had a version that was compatible with the 19s or 20s. Guess I was mistaken. For what it’s worth, a tire guy who did some rough measurements of the lucid wheel fitment mentioned to me that he thought the 275’s in the pilot sport EV would technically fit over the oem wheels and drive fine but not sure the details because that’s not something I would consider due to the probably range hit by widening all 4 tires.
 
Are the 21” Aero Blade wheels forged or cast?
 
Will not spec 21”. Just the 19” then get 20” when they are available.
 
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