Lucid Connected Home Charging Station speed

[Unh00ked]

can you program the charger to pull less than 80 amp?

 

[segbrk]

can you program the charger to pull less than 80 amp?

Yes, using physical dip switches.

 

[Unh00ked]

Sorry what options does it have?

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Sorry what options does it have?

 

[Unh00ked]

Thank for this. I have an old school dumb charger which I believe to be 32AMPs, which is plenty for me. So the plan was to run this at the same speed or tad bit higher since I believe the person did mention he install 80AMP fuse.

My current dumb charger for some reason keeps blink "trouble" after the Lucid has been charged to the set level. It does not do this with my PHEV which I have been using this with for the past 6 years.

Figured I'd take advantage of the promo and see if this works better for $200.

 

[segbrk]

Thank for this. I have an old school dumb charger which I believe to be 32AMPs, which is plenty for me. So the plan was to run this at the same speed or tad bit higher since I believe the person did mention he install 80AMP fuse.

My current dumb charger for some reason keeps blink "trouble" after the Lucid has been charged to the set level. It does not do this with my PHEV which I have been using this with for the past 6 years.

Do note that your charger (any charger) needs to be set to 80% of the breaker's rating. E.g. you'd need a 100A breaker to run the Lucid charger at its full load, or a 40A breaker for your 32A charger.

 

[Unh00ked]

Do note that your charger (any charger) needs to be set to 80% of the breaker's rating. E.g. you'd need a 100A breaker to run the Lucid charger at its full load, or a 40A breaker for your 32A charger.

Yeah, aware of that hence will more than likely use the existing settings. Maybe down the road, I will get a tech to take a look at the wiring again. Pretty positive the previous tech said he installed a 80AMP breaker but I am not smart enough to verify that.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Yeah, aware of that hence will more than likely use the existing settings. Maybe down the road, I will get a tech to take a look at the wiring again. Pretty positive the previous tech said he installed a 80AMP breaker but I am not smart enough to verify that.

If you are on an 80 amp breaker you definitely need to open the Lucid wall charger and reset the DIP switches to 64 amps. Also, check that the wiring to the charger is good for that load. If your electrician doesn't know this fire him before he burns your house down. I recommend the LCHCS because it's future-proof.

 

[Pragmatic]

100a breaker and proper wiring (2ga copper) to the charger.

 

[Unh00ked]

Yeah definitely don't need a 100AMP setup. It's a bit overkill imho. If I was doing it from scratch I would have considered it but given I already have a setup for the past 6 years (installed by a tech) I am planning to just swap this out and set it to 32AMP load and call it a day.

 

[Bobby]

Yeah definitely don't need a 100AMP setup. It's a bit overkill imho. If I was doing it from scratch I would have considered it but given I already have a setup for the past 6 years (installed by a tech) I am planning to just swap this out and set it to 32AMP load and call it a day.

How is it overkill if there is sufficient room in your panel? It makes charging such a breeze!

 

[Unh00ked]

Charging an EV has always been a breeze, you just stick the plug in the socket

But yeah 80mile/hr..... but to each his own.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

But yeah 80mile/hr..... but to each his own.

Perhaps, but I tell you I've had a couple of times when I needed to put a few electrons in the tank to make an unexpected trip. Being able to do this an hour or two before leaving the house is really nice and stress-free. I still have free charging at EA 6 miles from home so I can put 200 miles in the tank in 12 minutes, but is it working, and available, or will it be when I get there?

the other thing: using your Lucid for battery back-up ... it could happen. maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but soon,
and for the rest of your life.

 

[scal_air]

Using the DIP switches is pretty foolproof, right? I'm trying to think of a situation it got accidentally reset back to 80 amps but I can't imagine one...

 

[Sandvinsd]

But yeah 80mile/hr..... but to each his own.

It’s faster than some EA stations I have been at
And to put a bunch of juice in the car while I shower and eat breakfast at home when the car wasn’t charged overnight is very valuable.

 

[Bobby]

It’s faster than some EA stations I have been at
And to put a bunch of juice in the car while I shower and eat breakfast at home when the car wasn’t charged overnight is very valuable.

Agree.

 

[borski]

Using the DIP switches is pretty foolproof, right? I'm trying to think of a situation it got accidentally reset back to 80 amps but I can't imagine one...

Yes, setting the the dip switches as described in the manual (and confirming what it is pulling either via a set of CTs or the car or EVSE web interface) is the right thing to do (and the only way it’ll pass code, if you can’t do the full 80amps)

 

[QuantumFire]

To follow up, the electric company upgraded the line to house. The charger is now getting 124.8 v and 123.3 v when not under load and 118.3 v and 117.3 v under load. The charger is reporting 18720.00 kW (I think they mean W, or 18.7 kW) and the car reports 18 kW. So, yay! This is about as good as I could expect.

It's unfortunate that the car is rounding the power down, at 18.7 kW it could easily report 19 kW on the dash.

Also, the breaker in the garage is buzzing when the charger is active. I mentioned this to the electrician and he didn't think it was a problem and I didn't insist they do anything about it. If I'm feeling motivated I may replace the breaker and see if that helps with the voltage drop.

 

[Adnillien]

To follow up, the electric company upgraded the line to house. The charger is now getting 124.8 v and 123.3 v when not under load and 118.3 v and 117.3 v under load. The charger is reporting 18720.00 kW (I think they mean W, or 18.7 kW) and the car reports 18 kW. So, yay! This is about as good as I could expect.

It's unfortunate that the car is rounding the power down, at 18.7 kW it could easily report 19 kW on the dash.

Also, the breaker in the garage is buzzing when the charger is active. I mentioned this to the electrician and he didn't think it was a problem and I didn't insist they do anything about it. If I'm feeling motivated I may replace the breaker and see if that helps with the voltage drop.

After the car has been charging for 30 minutes, feel the breaker to see if it is getting hot. It should be warm but not hot.

 

[borski]

To follow up, the electric company upgraded the line to house. The charger is now getting 124.8 v and 123.3 v when not under load and 118.3 v and 117.3 v under load. The charger is reporting 18720.00 kW (I think they mean W, or 18.7 kW) and the car reports 18 kW. So, yay! This is about as good as I could expect.

It's unfortunate that the car is rounding the power down, at 18.7 kW it could easily report 19 kW on the dash.

Also, the breaker in the garage is buzzing when the charger is active. I mentioned this to the electrician and he didn't think it was a problem and I didn't insist they do anything about it. If I'm feeling motivated I may replace the breaker and see if that helps with the voltage drop.

How did you get the electric company to come out and upgrade the line?