Gravity Bugs / Issues

[hank-iv]

Well the verdict is in for my "key card not enabling drive" issue.

The connector to the security node that enables the car to go into gear is bent and the metal casing around that connector is broken.
The supplier of the center console, during assembly, has been pushing the cup holders into place on the console.
Doing so causes the bottom of the cupholders to press into and bend/break the connector to the sentry node.

This sounds very familiar to what another member mentioned, but w/o details.

The wire from the sentry mode to the nfc reader for the key card should be routed around the cupholders instead of under the cupholders.
That routing keeps the security node connector from being so close to the cupholders bottom that risk of bending/breaking doesn't exist.

The mobile tech mentioned this as a possible cause even before he started working.
He's seen it on another Gravity in their shop and has seen pictures from other techs.

Lucid has issued a technical service campaign for the issue.
Currently the campaign is for range of VINs unless a customer notifies Lucid of an issue.
The connector cannot simply be replaced because the supplier is not providing individual parts; only complete consoles.

I asked how long.
The tech knows of another tech who found the issue and parts were ordered on Aug. 5.
The part has been installed, so possibly around two weeks, but the tech was sure.

I mentioned my concern with not having a key card as a backup if the key fob isn't working.
He said I could call the service manager anytime and a tech would be notified to remotely start the car.

This possibly explains the recent production stoppage.
Also, to me, this isn't on Lucid specifically; it's the parts supplier.
However, I do wonder why this wasn't caught during post production and pre-delivery inspection.
There's probably a good reason; I just don't have it.

"Also, to me, this isn't on Lucid specifically; it's the parts supplier."

In the Marines it was hammered into us that you can delegate authority, but not responsibility. In this case, they picked the supplier, so they own them.

 

[hydbob]

Well the verdict is in for my "key card not enabling drive" issue.

The connector to the security node that enables the car to go into gear is bent and the metal casing around that connector is broken.
The supplier of the center console, during assembly, has been pushing the cup holders into place on the console.
Doing so causes the bottom of the cupholders to press into and bend/break the connector to the sentry node.

This sounds very familiar to what another member mentioned, but w/o details.

The wire from the sentry mode to the nfc reader for the key card should be routed around the cupholders instead of under the cupholders.
That routing keeps the security node connector from being so close to the cupholders bottom that risk of bending/breaking doesn't exist.

The mobile tech mentioned this as a possible cause even before he started working.
He's seen it on another Gravity in their shop and has seen pictures from other techs.

Lucid has issued a technical service campaign for the issue.
Currently the campaign is for range of VINs unless a customer notifies Lucid of an issue.
The connector cannot simply be replaced because the supplier is not providing individual parts; only complete consoles.

I asked how long.
The tech knows of another tech who found the issue and parts were ordered on Aug. 5.
The part has been installed, so possibly around two weeks, but the tech was sure.

I mentioned my concern with not having a key card as a backup if the key fob isn't working.
He said I could call the service manager anytime and a tech would be notified to remotely start the car.

This possibly explains the recent production stoppage.
Also, to me, this isn't on Lucid specifically; it's the parts supplier.
However, I do wonder why this wasn't caught during post production and pre-delivery inspection.
There's probably a good reason; I just don't have it.

It probably wasn't caught because moving it around most likely aggravates the issue with tugging the cabling. My fob and key card have always worked from day 1 so it's not an issue for all. Maybe I can get a new console soon =)

 

[msaunders9430]

"Also, to me, this isn't on Lucid specifically; it's the parts supplier."

In the Marines it was hammered into us that you can delegate authority, but not responsibility. In this case, they picked the supplier, so they own them.

Absolutely.
Not a marine, but having been in leadership positions during my career, ultimate responsibility is on leadership.
However, leadership doesn't perform every individual task.
There are employees, teammates, soldiers.

So if an operation, mission, project, etc. doesn't go completely as planned, those in leadership bare the responsibility.
However, that doesn't mean those working with the leaders don't play a role.

Ultimately, Lucid is responsible for their decisions on parts suppliers.
However, they didn't assemble the parts.

So, I'll clarify my statement: This isn't completely on Lucid; the parts suppliers were a contributing factor to the key card issue.
A failed Marine mission due to helicopter pilot error; ultimate responsibility on the top brass, contributing factor, pilot error.

 

[msaunders9430]

It probably wasn't caught because moving it around most likely aggravates the issue with tugging the cabling. My fob and key card have always worked from day 1 so it's not an issue for all. Maybe I can get a new console soon =)

I have read the "tugging the cable" theory.
The mobile tech said cupholder impingment moreso than wiring/cabling movement.

As more details come out, that could change.
The theory does make sense unless the security node,nfc reader, and connecting wire/cable are on the same part of the tray and there is no movement between them.

 

[jered]

Ahh I just thought maybe you had already tried to replace the battery.

Keep us posted. A battery that only last 2 months is troublesome.

Replacing the battery solved it! Yes, a fob battery that lasts 2 months is worrying.... the tiny homunculus fobs for our X last about 3 years with similar functionality to the Gravity fob..

 

[Gravitaas]

First post.
My GGT has spent more time in the service center than in my garage!
Many issues:
1. None of the passenger doors unlock and open from the outside unless the driver door is unlocked and opened.
2. Squeaky passenger seat
3. Cabin wind noise and window glass not aligning properly causing a whistling noise.

Does the charge port door feel flimsy/plasticy?

 

[jered]

1. None of the passenger doors unlock and open from the outside unless the driver door is unlocked and opened.

Weeeeeeeird.

Does the charge port door feel flimsy/plasticy?

It feels about the same as a gas vehicle fuel door to me, but it's a bit of a surprise coming from a Model X. Why is it so big?

 

[hydbob]

Weeeeeeeird.

It feels about the same as a gas vehicle fuel door to me, but it's a bit of a surprise coming from a Model X. Why is it so big?

Probably the original design was for the CCS port which is much larger.

 

[Ron_Burgundy]

Does the charge port door feel flimsy/plasticy?

Yes. And since the open position is perpendicular to the car, I am concerned I will bump it and break it accidentally. But, I expect it would still work even if broken off and likely easier to fix than electric…

Never had any issues with the electric charge doors on Tesla or Rivian, but heard Air did have issues.

 

[Ron_Burgundy]

I tried Google here and it suggested a slightly modified version of my Tesla window reset (pic attached).

It did not solve the issue, but appears to have done something. Now, my rear passenger window won’t go down at all (unresponsive to driver or passenger button). It is stuck in the almost all the way up position - like 99% up but not that last bit it typically goes when door closed. Oh well. Doesn’t seem like a bug. I do put my rear windows up and down a lot for my dog - but I did that for two years in our R1S with no issues.

I will be one of those people with small tarp over my window for a while…View attachment 31935

Update…had to open this door tonight to let dog out. Closed the door and window went all the way up to correct position! I feel better but not confident it is “fixed”. No idea why it started working.

 

[Clyde2575]

Yes, it was the Scottsdale SC.
They can speak with John, the manager. He was intimately involved with the troubleshooting process which included a few HQ engineers.

John is great. He helped me about a week ago when I got stuck at Costco in Tempe.

 

[Elfin]

Probably the original design was for the CCS port which is much larger.

Probably not. I think they moved the port to the back at the same time they switched to NACS.
CCS port Gravity have the port in the front.

 

[borski]

Update…had to open this door tonight to let dog out. Closed the door and window went all the way up to correct position! I feel better but not confident it is “fixed”. No idea why it started working.

You need your seals adjusted. Workaround for the future: open the door, then close the window, then close the door. Alternatively, after it fails to close 3 times, you’ll be able to manually hold the button to make the window go up and it should close, but the automatic function won’t work until the next time when it fails again.

It’s a quick fix for the service team. We had this on the GT.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

Yes. And since the open position is perpendicular to the car, I am concerned I will bump it and break it accidentally. But, I expect it would still work even if broken off and likely easier to fix than electric…
Never had any issues with the electric charge doors on Tesla or Rivian, but heard Air did have issues.

My charge port door on my Air has been flawless 100% of the time for 42k miles. It wasn’t perfectly aligned at the bottom edge but it’s always worked. I’ve never had any other car have a wireless charging pad work very well either so not surprised Gravity one is similarly disappointing, I think Motor Trend wrote an article about how crappy this tech is in most cars. Even the Twraps one I have in my Air plugged directly into the USB port occasionally requires me to try one side or the other to actuallly get it to work sometimes.

 

[EVCar]

John is great. He helped me about a week ago when I got stuck at Costco in Tempe.

Is your being stuck a new bug we need to know, or just circumstances?
John is a real asset for us here. Always comes true.

 

[Clyde2575]

My charge port door on my Air has been flawless 100% of the time for 42k miles. It wasn’t perfectly aligned at the bottom edge but it’s always worked. I’ve never had any other car have a wireless charging pad work very well either so not surprised Gravity one is similarly disappointing, I think Motor Trend wrote an article about how crappy this tech is in most cars. Even the Twraps one I have in my Air plugged directly into the USB port occasionally requires me to try one side or the other to actuallly get it to work sometimes.

My Air charging door failed to open over 50% of the time. I was told it was dirty…I called BS but traded it in to lucid so no longer my problem.

 

[Clyde2575]

Is your being stuck a new bug we need to know, or just circumstances?
John is a real asset for us here. Always comes true.

I’ve seen a few other reports of this after it happened to me. GGT said it had no battery but it was at about 80%. All screens on, a/c on but it would not go into drive, none of the screens responded to touch and couldn’t change a/c temp from app but doors opened via app and fob.

John got me on my way in under 30 minutes. They pushed something software to the GGT and it’s been fine since.

 

[NoseyReporter]

Replacing the battery solved it! Yes, a fob battery that lasts 2 months is worrying.... the tiny homunculus fobs for our X last about 3 years with similar functionality to the Gravity fob..

Speaking of which I ran into a key problem today.... I hope the battery didn't die already

 

[EVCar]

I’ve seen a few other reports of this after it happened to me. GGT said it had no battery but it was at about 80%. All screens on, a/c on but it would not go into drive, none of the screens responded to touch and couldn’t change a/c temp from app but doors opened via app and fob.

John got me on my way in under 30 minutes. They pushed something software to the GGT and it’s been fine since.

Glad John came to the rescue.
This could’ve turned into a major ordeal.

 

[DrZorro]

I've seen a lot of talk on here about potential console replacements. If they end up replacing yours, just make sure the tech knows how to resync the new console to the computer prior to doing the work so they don't get blind-sighted when the key fob doesn't work after the replacement! As I stated before (in a very long post), the instructions the techs have for the console swap basically says "here's how you remove it...to install the new one, do the reverse"...with no mention of the needed software tweak.