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Like a dead battery or just broke?Our key fob stopped working this morning.Thankfully the key cards are working this time, so it's not urgent.
Like a dead battery or just broke?Our key fob stopped working this morning.Thankfully the key cards are working this time, so it's not urgent.
Our key fob stopped working this morning.Thankfully the key cards are working this time, so it's not urgent.
How would I know? (I've ordered spare batteries; they'll be here tonight.)Like a dead battery or just broke?
It might be a question of sementic,Issues with the key fobs seem to be deteriorating rather than improving. For a while we were among the lucky who weren't having any problems with it. But then it began to get balkier, and now it will only unlock and power up the car but won't allow the car to be put into gear. For that we have to use the key card every time.
I posted the other day that our key fob was rapidly losing range while running about during the course of an afternoon and evening. I thought the battery was going dead, so I ordered a pack of 2450 batteries from Amazon when I got home. By the time the batteries arrived the next day, the range of the key fob had miraculously returned to normal.
I remain mystified that, after the fiasco with the Air key fobs, it's happening all over again.
It might be a question of sementic,
> lock/unlock issues exists on both the Air and the Gravity.
> there are multiple paths to lock/unlock) vis-a-vis, FOB, Key Card, Phone (Blutooth, celluar), etc.
> but all these unlock signals go through the computer to assert the locking/unlocking function
> there are multiple theories RE: antenna, Bluetooth interference, WiFI interference, etc. etc.
To me, this sounds like a computer/SW problem rather than a "device" (FOB/Keycard) or Apps (Bluetooth/Celluar). Hence, replacingthe FAB/Key Cards/reinstalling the Apps won't really fix the problem.
Thoughts?
Yes, the Air Key FOB sucks. I hardly ever use it.Makes sense.
However, before the Gravity came along Lucid was saying that there were limits to what they could do to address the Air problems in part because of the choice they had made in sourcing the key fobs. They said they were going with a different vendor and different fob hardware as part of rectifying the problem for Gravity production. So it's hard for me, at least, to tell whether the Gravity fob hardware is fine and the problems all lie in the software or whether the fob itself is part of the issue.
There's also this curious shortage of fobs and key cards, with most Gravity owners still waiting to receive the second fobs and key cards they have been promised.
Just want to make sure we are not barking uo the wrong tree!
My point is:The Air has PaaK now, right? Does that work well?
As for lock/unlock methods all flowing through the same system, not sure that’s true. I think folks have reported the app is able to unlock the car sometimes when the fob won’t, for example. Or the key cards work when the fob doesn’t - even though the fob is supposed to have the same NFC chip in it if needed (I think).
I expect the phone app is communicating via LTE/data while the fob needs to use antenna in the car. Whatever actually mechanically locks/unlocks car seems to work…but there are various inputs that cause issues.
Got it. I was trying to say the signals may not be sent to the computer at all (eg fob issues), so it doesn’t even have the chance to fail.My point is:
I think there is only ONE (per door) solenoid lock plunger. That is activated by the computer. There might be multiple unlock signals (celluar, WiFi, Bluetooth, FOB, key card) that activate the computer. But all of these commands go to and arbirtaed by the computer. Hence, there is one-point of failure.
That’s very good to know… are there any other settings in the car screens and any other things other owners should know to try and replicate yourI'm closing in on 3,000 miles with my Gravity DE. After a frustrating first week of dealing with the various access issues often talked about here I got this great advice from DrZorro that continues to be a 100% solution for access and driving the vehicle so I can really enjoy all it has to offer. The DrZorro access hack is this:
--I have the proximity/auto lock/unlock thing in the settings switched to OFF
--To open the car: Key in pocket, approach car, push in the door handle...It then presents and the door opens (and car drives without issue)
--To lock the car: Key still in pocket, push door handle in until mirrors begin to fold. Let go, door handles disappear. Walk away.
I both commute and take my work team to lunch every day in the Gravity and this method has yet to fail me since I learned it on this forum.
I've had proximity lock/unlock disabled from day 1.I'm closing in on 3,000 miles with my Gravity DE. After a frustrating first week of dealing with the various access issues often talked about here I got this great advice from DrZorro that continues to be a 100% solution for access and driving the vehicle so I can really enjoy all it has to offer. The DrZorro access hack is this:
--I have the proximity/auto lock/unlock thing in the settings switched to OFF
--To open the car: Key in pocket, approach car, push in the door handle...It then presents and the door opens (and car drives without issue)
--To lock the car: Key still in pocket, push door handle in until mirrors begin to fold. Let go, door handles disappear. Walk away.
I both commute and take my work team to lunch every day in the Gravity and this method has yet to fail me since I learned it on this forum.
Ahh I just thought maybe you had already tried to replace the battery.How would I know? (I've ordered spare batteries; they'll be here tonight.)
We didn't have any low battery warnings or anything, so I assume this is the random keyfob issue. I have to work now, but if it's still happening this evening I will see if I can access the ECU to power-cycle it.
Are you able to to roll up the window with the door open?I have a new bug OR an actual service issue. I think the latter, but please let me know if you’ve had this issue.
Driver side rear window won’t close all the way. Starts going up, then gets caught in a continuous up/down loop moving only a quarter inch or so up and down repeatedly until I push the control to move it down a bit and it moves down and stopes - but it won’t close fully.
I looked for something, like trim, in the way, don’t see it. Tried soft reset just in case, no dice.
My 2013 S and 2016 X had this exact issue and there was an odd way to manually “reset” the window that sometimes worked. Doesn’t work here.
Thoughts? Normally, I wouldn’t care, but since it leaves a small opening at the top and I park in our driveway, I feel like I need a service call on this one…also getting ready for a road trip tomorrow, so timing isn’t ideal.
Just went to schedule service in Lucid app. All dates are grayed out through October and it won’t let me go beyond there…guess I will try to call.
I don't want to get down a rat-hole. But there is indeed a mechnical override (simply by pulling the lever back hard to release the lock) you can pull to release the door; but you have to do it from the inside of the car. For example, when I go DCFC charging, if I leave my car for a while unattended, I often leave a gap on the driver-side window. I want to make sure I can mechnically access the release mechanism when all the other electronic unlock gadgets fail.My point is:
I think there is only ONE (per door) solenoid lock plunger. That is activated by the computer. There might be multiple unlock signals (celluar, WiFi, Bluetooth, FOB, key card) that activate the computer. But all of these commands go to and arbirtaed by the computer. Hence, there is one-point of failure.
It goes up “all the way” when open but that means, since they’re frameless, it’s 99% up, and then when I close the door, it won’t go up the other 1% to close and seal.Are you able to to roll up the window with the door open?
That's a good idea, I'll reach out to an attorney to get it evaluated. I'm pretty sure it would meet the requirements since it's a brand new vehicle that's been in service for well over 30 days across multiple visits. I'll also reach out to Lucid once more to give them another opportunity to discuss potential solutions.I feel like your tales of Lucid ignoring you are beyond what you should tolerate. I'd probably try calling them one last time, early during business hours, and explain that you won't accept a callback (and why), and that you either want an escalation right now, or the name and direct number of someone higher up in the chain. If that doesn't work, than I don't see much alternative to invoking the lemon law. I hear what Borksi is saying about how doing that will close out options, but what choice do you have? Before you tell Lucid you're doing that, it probably does make sense to have an attorney make sure that you've met all the appropriate requirements.
Thanks! Any idea how I would go about contacting him?The person you might want to contact is Zak Edson, VP for Ownership Experience. The service organization reports to him.
Ha! I love the DZA hack it's much easier to write. I do keep my key card in my wallet for just in case but haven't had to use it since I started using the hack. I did say 100%. 3.2.2 fixed most of the media challenges but I still lose my contacts synching at times still pretty randomly as far as I can tell. I prefer to drive my cars without a lot of warnings going off so I suppressed a lot of the DreamDrive stuff. I do keep the blind spot camera enabled when make lane changes because the pillars are big and my seat position is not optimal for blind spot lines of sight.That’s very good to know… are there any other settings in the car screens and any other things other owners should know to try and replicate your% DrZorro Access (DZA) hack ?
For instance what do you do with your key cards? Is your Lucid app running on your phone? Etc. Any config settings?
Btw am curious - do your lucky lunch buddies have any feedback about your gravity? Sound system and ride perhaps?