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Another simple subwoofer install with pics

I don’t think I understand the question. For what it’s worth I don’t have any acoustic testing gear.
 
BassWinger said:
I don’t think I understand the question. For what it’s worth I don’t have any acoustic testing gear.
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Lolll ohhhh no. Im sorry I mean does the power being used for the subwoofer lower the cars driving range?
 
Kaycee1980 said:
Lolll ohhhh no. Im sorry I mean does the power being used for the subwoofer lower the cars driving range?
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Oh, I was thinking you were talking acoustically.
Not by any measurable means no way. Probably uses less than a seat massage session? Certainly isn’t the slightest concern for me.
 
Kaycee1980 said:
Lolll ohhhh no. Im sorry I mean does the power being used for the subwoofer lower the cars driving range?
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Here’s another perspective on that….
I’m not worried about the impact on the driving range from a subwoofer install on a car that motorizes its handles open, turns on the headlights, cranks on the HVAC, and turns on the radio every damn time I go into the garage, or walk by it in the driveway.
The cars natural behavior is already chewing away at some petty amount of range.
 
BassWinger said:
Thank you @McGriddle. Based on this post I bought the 10” version of the Kicker and installed it in kind this afternoon into my ‘25 Touring (with the base sound system.) What a dramatic improvement. I installed it deck level, just behind the folding seat, passenger side as it seemed like a better location than in the rear well. I’ve tuned it with about an hour of listening… may have to play with it more, but very pleased thus far. Many thanks for sharing the path.
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This sounds good. Is 150w the max the 12v outlet will do?
 
Hey! I'm about to attempt your method of adding a subwoofer. Picked up a focal bomba and it fits perfectly in my under-trunk!

Looking at your wiring - I see both a grey and a white cable (which matches my wiring harness) from both sides of the speaker (green and black). Is that the only thing specific about wiring the high level inputs back to the powered subwoofer? Does it matter which side it comes out of? I've got this small wiring harness for high level inputs that came with the sub, but no specific instructions from there.

Thanks!
 
nuri said:
Hey! I'm about to attempt your method of adding a subwoofer. Picked up a focal bomba and it fits perfectly in my under-trunk!

Looking at your wiring - I see both a grey and a white cable (which matches my wiring harness) from both sides of the speaker (green and black). Is that the only thing specific about wiring the high level inputs back to the powered subwoofer? Does it matter which side it comes out of? I've got this small wiring harness for high level inputs that came with the sub, but no specific instructions from there.

Thanks!
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One would be + and the other -, but a 'phase' switch (in / out) on the subwoofer would toggle between the two. That's my understanding, I'm not a pro!
 
nuri said:
Hey! I'm about to attempt your method of adding a subwoofer. Picked up a focal bomba and it fits perfectly in my under-trunk!

Looking at your wiring - I see both a grey and a white cable (which matches my wiring harness) from both sides of the speaker (green and black). Is that the only thing specific about wiring the high level inputs back to the powered subwoofer? Does it matter which side it comes out of? I've got this small wiring harness for high level inputs that came with the sub, but no specific instructions from there.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Sorry I can’t be of much help regarding the wiring specific to your sub. Generally, it should need pretty straightforward. You can switch the phase as was mentioned earlier.

Good luck! I hope it works well for you. The Focal Bomba seems nice!
 
I installed in-parallel as per instructions. I think I'm at 2 Ohms now instead of 4 so the stock one "pops" sometimes. I took me about a month to dial-in balance and EQ to get it rounded-out. Sirius XM native App transmits different EQ settings for each song and each channel so dialing-in the EQ for one channel might be pretty good and then you switch to Tidal or some other XM channel and it's all wacked.

Not sure if people have had luck just removing the center sub and running the powered sub by itself if that improved things?
 
I finally went ahead and did this, too. I went with the 10” kicker. So much better. It’s been easy to dish the base into a good level. At low volumes it’s not very noticeable, but once it’s turned up even a little, I can finally feel the bass.
 
The smaller 8" JBL was sounding fairly clippy and lousy when I put it behind the rear seats. I angled it at 90 degrees and it was better but not great. I played with the phase and "boost" of 35db and it was still boom-y and distorted somehow. I spent a month adjusting very slightly back and forth to get it to sound acceptable but I never could because the different media sources varied so widely, from Tidal to Tidal Atmos to Sirius XM to FM, to Android Auto Waze and Pandora was so unpredictable, even in-between channels and songs. Some would boom and clip so I'd dial it down and then that song or channel would be pretty good and then I'd change sources or channel and there would be nearly no bass. Rinse and repeat for a month with no luck and I was giving up.

It fell over from the velcro attached to the side of the carpeted trunk wall to a 45 degree angle hanging by the cords and it sounded a lot better and it gave me an idea:

I moved it underneath, deep inside the rear "well" area and covered it with the accordion door and after a slight adjust once or twice, it was perfect. The bass reflections are partially absorbed by the carpeting, removing the hot-punch-clip-effect in the same way a microphone has a "pop filter" to eliminate "p" and "b" breath-sounds that burst and clip the microphone membrane:

1749869552265.webp


A lot of singers do not start words with "b" or "p" because in live settings it's not common to use the filter in a concert. The Lucid's rear carpet (and my added Lloyd's rear ceramic-parchment colored carpet over it) serves the purpose of the "pop" filter in a positive way I wasn't expecting.
 
so most of yall are running the sub in parallel ?
think I will try disconnecting factory sub, and just using my sub
 
Yes, parallel. I believe it changes the ohms to 2 from 4, so less resistance which may drive the rear sub a little too much.
I found it would be too explosive unless you turn-up the powered add-on sub by itself which seems to be able to handle the 2 ohms and I set the resistance to high.

It sounds best in the sub-well of the trunk. Inside or on the upper portion of the trunk interior is too boomy and I could never get it dialed-in right. Somehow, in the well, it's perfect.
 
mikecronis said:
Yes, parallel. I believe it changes the ohms to 2 from 4, so less resistance which may drive the rear sub a little too much.
I found it would be too explosive unless you turn-up the powered add-on sub by itself which seems to be able to handle the 2 ohms and I set the resistance to high.

It sounds best in the sub-well of the trunk. Inside or on the upper portion of the trunk interior is too boomy and I could never get it dialed-in right. Somehow, in the well, it's perfect.
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normally its more power with 2ohms,but I'm a lil confused how the ohms gets changed. Like by default, the subwoofer I want to use is 4ohms, so this would make the system 2ohms? what if my subwoofer was already 2 ohms?
also, although its in "parallel", the subwoofer I'm adding will be powered by the amp I'm adding,just getting the signal from the lucid subwoofer(even though in theory, if you had a subwoofer added to the stock subwoofer, it should power both subwoofers without an amp, which is true parallel, correct?
 
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