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Another simple subwoofer install with pics

If it's already 2 Ohms then you're doing the right thing.
I ran both without power and there was a very small amount going to the external sub, but it was negligible and could barely hear it.
I'm not an electrical engineer so my answers are probably extra wrong.
 
Okay! Great Success! I dropped a small Focal Bomba BP20 into my sub-trunk. I used the alligator clips, a plug in to the cigarette lighter for power, and it magical. The only thing I struggled with was removing the upholstery clips - I'm going to have to replace most of them :rolleyes:.

It's small enough that it doesn't touch the deck lid and WOW. I've got the gain cranked all the way to zero and it has fundamentally changed how much I enjoy driving my car. I'm in a lease, so even better - I don't fundamentally modify the car and can easily remove it when it is time to turn it back in. It's incredible and I love it. Thanks for the post, the instructions, and the suggestion!
 
Thanks for the post, just hooked my sub up, used 4ohm old bazooka tube, signal coming from hi/lo level adapter, with power accessory adapter to port in trunk, no fiddling with the power and ground wires needed. I have the basic 9 speaker, but it booms now!! bazooka have high efficiency using little watts.

One thing I noticed, since I tapped into the rear sub, that sub.....is small, 6inch being generous? needs to be enclosed to get a good kick.
 
Does anyone who has done this mod have pictures of how the wires are run from the alligator clips to the amp/sub? I'm trying to figure out of I'm supposed to use Hi or Lo input to the sub, also the Hi input has 6 wires, where do each of them go? Sorry, not an experienced audio installer so could use some basic help :) sorry for the stupid questions!
 
robertlo99 said:
Does anyone who has done this mod have pictures of how the wires are run from the alligator clips to the amp/sub? I'm trying to figure out of I'm supposed to use Hi or Lo input to the sub, also the Hi input has 6 wires, where do each of them go? Sorry, not an experienced audio installer so could use some basic help :) sorry for the stupid questions!
Click to expand...
Each speaker should only have 2 wires.

Your subwoofer may take in 2 for the right channel and another 2 for the left channel or a total of 4.

The other extra 2 maybe for some other purposes like output, signal gain control, remote on/off...

It would be helpful if your subwoofer comes with instructions, diagrams, and markers like +, -, L, R....

You should post here close up pictures of your new subwoofer connections.

Your alligator clips tap on the high signals from the original Lucid amplifier to original subwoofer so it's H, not L input for your new subwoofer.

Low output are too weak to drive a speaker. It needs to be stepped up with preamplifier/amplifier first before it's connected to your original Lucid subwoofer.
 
Tâm said:
Each speaker should only have 2 wires.

Your subwoofer may take in 2 for the right channel and another 2 for the left channel or a total of 4.

The other extra 2 maybe for some other purposes like output, signal gain control, remote on/off...

It would be helpful if your subwoofer comes with instructions, diagrams, and markers like +, -, L, R....

You should post here close up pictures of your new subwoofer connections.

Your alligator clips tap on the high signals from the original Lucid amplifier to original subwoofer so it's H, not L input for your new subwoofer.

Low output are too weak to drive a speaker. It needs to be stepped up with preamplifier/amplifier first before it's connected to your original Lucid subwoofer.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
Tâm said:
Each speaker should only have 2 wires.

Your subwoofer may take in 2 for the right channel and another 2 for the left channel or a total of 4.

The other extra 2 maybe for some other purposes like output, signal gain control, remote on/off...

It would be helpful if your subwoofer comes with instructions, diagrams, and markers like +, -, L, R....

You should post here close up pictures of your new subwoofer connections.

Your alligator clips tap on the high signals from the original Lucid amplifier to original subwoofer so it's H, not L input for your new subwoofer.

Low output are too weak to drive a speaker. It needs to be stepped up with preamplifier/amplifier first before it's connected to your original Lucid subwoofer.
Click to expand...
Here's a picture of the inputs. It comes with a harness, so I just wanted to know what wires to strip to connect to the Lucid speaker outputs.
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That looks like a proprietary connection. What brand and model number? If you have the manual for it, it probably has the pinout. If you post a picture of that, we can probably figure it out.
 
johnse said:
That looks like a proprietary connection. What brand and model number? If you have the manual for it, it probably has the pinout. If you post a picture of that, we can probably figure it out.
Click to expand...

Rockville RW10CA... I haven't purchased it yet, I might pull the trigger and see it's feasible to install myself, if not, will return it. It's a cheap sub to augment the sound, it's a cheap alternative to the Kicker since I don't want to spend a lot of money on this mod, just want to get a little better sound. I'll post pics when i get it.
 
I have the amp and parts in hand now. Here's the picture of thr wire and diagram, I think it makes sense to me. But I have a question about power, it says to use 8ga wire, can I just run it without a fuse inline to the 12v aux plug?
1000071797.webp
1000071794.webp
 
That's fine if you like the smell of fried insulation.
 
After reading through this thread I was inspired to revisit my 'old car audio' crate in my attic where I found a Class D fosgate amp and a down firing, shallow mount sub. I'll have to find some time to test these as they might be my next mod.
 
So I have read over this thread 5 times at least..
And I have 0 experience with this stuff so here I am asking questions from the bottom up. Sorry for the rudimentary questions but here goes:

I bought the kicker 10" as the OP has, how do I tap the 12v? The adapter plugs into sub, then there are 10 wires. My assumption is the two red +/- 12v RED wires are the ones used to tap? What are those yellow/blue connectors that are tapping the 12v called and how do they connect to the 12v wires? Do they need to be stripped prior to connecting?

The alligator clamps look like the 2 "+" l/r and 2 "-" l/r get taped together with electrical tape and then connected to the existing sub with the clamps.

So if I can get clarification on the power side, maybe the rest will get sorted!

Thank you for the help.
 
Well I just went for it.. And got it!
Not the cleanest setup by a mile, but it'll work.

Anyone have a setup locked in to get clean bass? Right now, it sounds a bit muddy. I'm gonna play with the settings over time but of course if anyone has tips that would be great.

Thank you!
 
McGriddle said:
Hi all,

Based on smistry007's previous thread (https://lucidowners.com/threads/subwoofer-bass-solution.4366/) I thought I'd go ahead and add a small subwoofer that I had lying around from a previous car. My goal here was to supplement the low end without taking up too much of the trunk space. I used a Kicker HS8 Hideaway 8" powered sub which has a built-in 150W amp.

Like smistry007, I also tapped into the power from the accessory outlet in the trunk. For access, you simply lift up on the lining as there are no snap connectors. Here are some pics of the connections. Note that the connector to the outlet is pretty short to work with.

View attachment 21814

View attachment 21815

View attachment 21816

Onto the rear parcel shelf woofer connection. The center woofer is accessed via removal of the lining's 4 push clips. I'd suggest trim removal tools to prevent snapping anything.

View attachment 21817

View attachment 21818

Once the 4 connectors are removed, you can pull down the lining to reveal the speakers. There is a small connector to the trunk interior light to disconnect.

View attachment 21819

The central woofer can be seen below. Note that there isn't much room to tap the wires with a wiretap connector, so I used alligator clips as well.

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View attachment 21821

With everything connected, putting everything back in place was easy. Overall, (again thanks to smistry007's prior post), this was an easy job. It took me maybe just over an hour being careful. Here is the modest trunk space ten up by the sub. I've laid it flat for now but could mount it sideways as well.

View attachment 21822

Overall, I'm quite happy with the extra bass to supplement the overall sound. A small sub like this isn't ever going to be aggressively boomy for those who want to rattle the house, but I've found it's a nice compromise for saving trunk space as well.
Click to expand...
How about a dab of solder for those wires? I'd be afraid that the alligator clips would vibrate off.
 
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