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What am I missing....

There is an extensive article on V2G in the back section (Future Everything) of the Wall Street Journal. A couple of things:
1. They indicated that a unit capable of two way electrical flow from an EV will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $5000. I guess I thought the Lucid Home Charger was going to be around $800 (I think my SA told me that back in April last year). Anyway, maybe the $5000 amount includes the wiring and hookup charges??
Yes, I would imagine that is the reason.
2. The article also indicated if you are using the EV to send power back to the Grid on a regular basis (perhaps during peak times to get the higher credit??) you will degrade your battery. I thought that was one of the advantages of the Tesla Power Wall units??
Really looking at the bidirectional capabilities for emergency usage. Right now, energy arbitrage is not allowed in CA, so one cannot do it. You can use the battery to run the peak power, but that is not going to provide a lot of benefit. Yes, the more the energy cycles, the more the battery will degrade. If I could do real energy arbitrage, then I could pay for a new battery with the money I would make, but you are right, it would make more sense to have a battery pack outside of a car to do that.
 
Plugged in the supplied cable into a 50 amp outlet with a adapter I bought on Amazon. Here is the charge rate.
 

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9 kw normal ?
Yes. If you are plugged into a NEMA 14-50 plug in a 50 amp circuit, you will draw 40 amps which will be 9.6 kW.
 
Did a full charge last night. Shows range at 431 miles. Normal ?
 

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Did a full charge last night. Shows range at 431 miles. Normal ?
Dream performance I assume?

You could call the service department and see. I would guess that it is normal, but always better to ask. I don’t have my Lucid yet, so I can’t give you feedback from that However, our Leaf will vary in the miles of range on a full charge And the amounts we see are in line with yours. The Performance is a 451 miles on a full charge. You are seeing 95-96% of that. I’m sure that number will bounce around from morning to morning after a charge. We see that on the Leaf. Could be using the recent driving history to calculate range.
 
Dream performance I assume?

You could call the service department and see. I would guess that it is normal, but always better to ask. I don’t have my Lucid yet, so I can’t give you feedback from that However, our Leaf will vary in the miles of range on a full charge And the amounts we see are in line with yours. The Performance is a 451 miles on a full charge. You are seeing 95-96% of that. I’m sure that number will bounce around from morning to morning after a charge. We see that on the Leaf. Could be using the recent driving history to calculate range.

My current BMW PHEV does incorporate recent driving style as well as weather in calculating an estimated range. I would expect that Lucid would do the same.
 
There is an extensive article on V2G in the back section (Future Everything) of the Wall Street Journal. A couple of things:
1. They indicated that a unit capable of two way electrical flow from an EV will cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $5000. I guess I thought the Lucid Home Charger was going to be around $800 (I think my SA told me that back in April last year). Anyway, maybe the $5000 amount includes the wiring and hookup charges??
2. The article also indicated if you are using the EV to send power back to the Grid on a regular basis (perhaps during peak times to get the higher credit??) you will degrade your battery. I thought that was one of the advantages of the Tesla Power Wall units??
I suspect the cost of making a physical connection to sell power to the Grid is high. The car will be acting as a Power generator and as such it must match the Frequency and Power Factor of the system before it is allowed to connect.
 
I suspect the cost of making a physical connection to sell power to the Grid is high. The car will be acting as a Power generator and as such it must match the Frequency and Power Factor of the system before it is allowed to connect.
It really is not that difficult for a DC to AC converter to match the grid. All grid tie solar installs do it. It is likely already built into Lucid's Wunderbox. Now backup power requires transfer switches that can become fairly expensive. Either one could require a lot of electrical panel work.
 
It really is not that difficult for a DC to AC converter to match the grid. All grid tie solar installs do it. It is likely already built into Lucid's Wunderbox. Now backup power requires transfer switches that can become fairly expensive. Either one could require a lot of electrical panel work.
For Sure... I was responding to V2G WSJ article. Hard to believe a 20kW DC/AC inverter can be had for 800 dollars.
 
Yes, I would imagine that is the reason.

Really looking at the bidirectional capabilities for emergency usage. Right now, energy arbitrage is not allowed in CA, so one cannot do it. You can use the battery to run the peak power, but that is not going to provide a lot of benefit. Yes, the more the energy cycles, the more the battery will degrade. If I could do real energy arbitrage, then I could pay for a new battery with the money I would make, but you are right, it would make more sense to have a battery pack outside of a car to do that.
Ordered a GT this week. Told delivery is 2-4 months, I expect 4-6 months. Was told bi-directional charger available 2Q2022, I expect 3Q2022 or 4Q2022.

We live in Texas and lived through 7-8 days of VERY limited power. I shut off the water for 9 days to avoid the frozen pipes everyone else had. House temps were in the 50s. With rolling power getting gas for car was difficult because the gas pump needs electricity. What a mess. So we developed a plan for the future. We completed the water plan this past fall, even if we have no incoming water we have enough water to get through 7-10 days without a problem.

Our electric plan, where the Air plays a key role, is as follows:
- Currently installing a solar system with a 30kW battery backup; there will be a 100 amp dedicated breaker for the Air. That backup gets us through every night and could last 2 days even with cloudy days.
- The Air battery becomes the long term solution to no power. We do not plan to use the Air anytime we are short of solar (panels plus the 30kW battery power). If we are short on generated power we will buy from the grid, we do not want to use the AIR except in emergent situations. Hopefully the Air will never get used but if needed, it's there. Got to keep the wife happy, and we need power to run medical equipment for short periods each day.

Once solar is installed we will be able to sell excess power to the electric company on sunny days. However, we cannot sell them more than we buy from them. If we do, we get suspended from their program for 1 year. So I will need to monitor that and there may be days where we shut down selling to the grid.

I did over-design the system by about 8-10% so I will need to closely monitor the amount we sell to the grid. But grandchildren are about 200 miles away and a day trip or overnight trip can be done on a full Air charge, so we can burn some extra electrons by seeing them a little more often.

I believe bi-directional charging will relatively common with 5 years.
 
I believe bi-directional charging will relatively common with 5 years.
I agree. The grid will look a lot different. I installed our solar in 2004. Peak times for power were from 10am to 4 pm. Those were the times when CA was telling you to conserve energy (Because we are a third-world ‘nation state’ which cannot reliably guarantee power during certain times of the day or year). At that time I mused what would happen when everyone got solar. Well fast forward a dozen or so years and now CA has peak power between 4-9 pm, because of the ‘duck-curve’ when the solar power generation dramatically drops off. We have to “flex our power” in the evening to avoid rolling blackouts. They tell us to move power consumption to between 12-6am. I have been musing for the last few years what happens when everyone has electric cars and they are all charging overnight?

Eventually, the power companies will use batteries and EVs as energy storage and they will allow energy to flow into the grid as they do with home solar today. The cheap power will be between 10a-4p which is the complete opposite from 2004 when I started solar. CA will tell you to “flex your power” at night and entice you to move all power consumption into the day. You will fill up your car and home batteries during the day with your solar and flow it into the grid in the evening or at night.
 
I just got my car yesterday (yay!) and I plugged into my new 64A charger (on an 80A circuit) and the Air reports pulling 14kW (charge level was around 75% at this point). 64A * 240V is 15.3kW, so I would have expected to see 15kW on the display.

Do we know if Lucid is reporting power consumed from the grid or the rate of energy added to the battery (which excludes charging losses, and thus would explain the difference)? Sorry, I'm pretty sure there was a discussion about this somewhere on the forum, but I can't find it now.
 
I just got my car yesterday (yay!) and I plugged into my new 64A charger (on an 80A circuit) and the Air reports pulling 14kW (charge level was around 75% at this point). 64A * 240V is 15.3kW, so I would have expected to see 15kW on the display.

Do we know if Lucid is reporting power consumed from the grid or the rate of energy added to the battery (which excludes charging losses, and thus would explain the difference)? Sorry, I'm pretty sure there was a discussion about this somewhere on the forum, but I can't find it now.
On my 19.2kW EVSE I have never seen more that 18kW. So I assume that it's the power being put into the battery pack,
 
I just got my car yesterday (yay!) and I plugged into my new 64A charger (on an 80A circuit) and the Air reports pulling 14kW (charge level was around 75% at this point). 64A * 240V is 15.3kW, so I would have expected to see 15kW on the display.

Do we know if Lucid is reporting power consumed from the grid or the rate of energy added to the battery (which excludes charging losses, and thus would explain the difference)? Sorry, I'm pretty sure there was a discussion about this somewhere on the forum, but I can't find it now.
I doubt your voltage remains at 240 volts with a 64A Load and any other loads connected to the breaker panel. Don't be surprised if the voltage delivered to the car is closer to 235V than 240V.
 
Don't be surprised if the voltage delivered to the car is closer to 235V than 240V.
Thanks. Even at 235V it would still be > 15kW, and with my 400A service I don't generally see much of a drop with load. But I'll check next time I'm charging.
 
Also, cars usually draw slightly less current during charging than the EVSE advertises. If you're curious, you could use a clamp-on ammeter at your circuit breaker to measure actual current draw.
 
I think the difference is Power Factor. For AC circuits, P=V*A*PF. PF accounts for the fact that the voltage and current aren’t in the same phase. Many household items have PFs as low as 0.9. For a DC circuit, PF=1, because the is no alternating current.
 
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