Software Bugs

[stratus]

Brave software testers one and all. But if you get stuck in Winnemucca or Baker; well....you cant prepare well enough.

I’ll take Baker over Winnumeuca any day!!

 

[Bunnylebowski]

While I feel for @hmp10 problems, I can’t help but wonder if the internal radar/laser detector installation may have just ever so slightly disturbed something to do with some processing capabilities of the car? Or maybe they just slipped up enough at the factory when his was made that dramatically amplified all software glitches? Like maybe something is supposed to sense a certain resistance to work and it’s just under what it needs by like a milivolt or something?

I’ve done many road trips, 6,700 miles on the car, and almost all glitches have been minor and brief and always cured by soft reboot or rarely needing a valet card reboot. Like yesterday Tidal kept dropping the volume like Alexa was trying to tell me a message or something, so I just switched to the radio then back to Tidal, and then Tidal was fine. And I’ve had an issue with the 360 degree camera/front camera not load at all only once, and again it was cured by a soft reboot.
And yes I’ve also had the AC do the reset thing where it cuts out for 10-20 seconds, but it works as expected 98% of the time. So I guess the problem is there’s a wide range of possible glitches, but I think @hmp10 are leaning towards worse case scenario? Reminds me of my 1986 Volvo 240GL wagon that had the most bizarre electrical random glitches that would sometimes be temperature or driving style or road condition triggered, took about 7 mechanic visits and a couple thousand dollars in labor to trouble shoot the wiring harnesses, finally cured by some hidden fuse that looked ok and passed one two tests but failed the 3rd time and I think it’s impedance was off by like 0.1 milivolt or something and was a $5 part.

 

[borski]

Hahaha……. True! That town was my rest stop when heading to the salt flats

I got stranded in Winnemucca when I first moved cross-country from NH to CA, and man, what a weird little casino town.

 

[hmp10]

While I feel for @hmp10 problems, I can’t help but wonder if the internal radar/laser detector installation may have just ever so slightly disturbed something to do with some processing capabilities of the car?

Some of my problems, including screen freezes, started before I had the radar installed, and the car required two service visits before that install. Also, the radar system is completely independent of the car's computer systems. It has its own speaker independent of the audio system, and even the display unit is mounted on the underdash below and to the left of the steering wheel. The only thing the radar installation might have interfered with was sensor wiring, but almost none of my problems (screen freezes and blackouts, white noise bursts, A/C shutdowns) seem to relate to sensors.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

Some of my problems, including screen freezes, started before I had the radar installed, and the car required two service visits before that install. Also, the radar system is completely independent of the car's computer systems. It has its own speaker independent of the audio system, and even the display unit is mounted on the underdash below and to the left of the steering wheel. The only thing the radar installation might have interfered with was sensor wiring, but almost none of my problems (screen freezes and blackouts, white noise bursts, A/C shutdowns) seem to relate to sensors.

Yeah it’s probably not that then if it was happening before also. The software updates have had to be tailored to different hardware builds due to chip sourcing problems so I’m wondering if your car got a non-standard chip/board that’s issue prone? How often do you need to do a reboot? I think the biggest problem is your camera unreliability. Didn’t Jon Rettinger’s car have that issue more than others? When was the last time you had the noise blast? It happened to me once about 3 months ago when I had just opened the doors when it tried to play music.

 

[hmp10]

I totally get it. It’s my impression that most people have been successful on long trips.

We took a week-long trip in our Lucid. Although it experienced a few software glitches that required reboots, there were no major issues. And the car drove and rode superbly. Even in 108-degree heat and bright sunshine, we didn't even find the glass canopy the problem that some others have.

Understood - understanding the software and trusting it is key. I think in the world of ICE we have all gotten used to the dependability of a good steed.

More the fool me, perhaps, but I still trust our Lucid not to leave us stranded. It's been seven years since we got our first Tesla, so we are used to software-laden cars. The Tesla software continually improved over that span (but it's still not fault-free even in our new Tesla), and it got us completely comfortable with a high level of software dependence for user features. My problem is that my confidence is now on a backward trajectory with the Lucid. Early on, I assumed we would see continual software improvement as the months passed. Instead, our old problems of screen freezes and system shutdowns remain while new ones crop up even as OTA software updates arrive.

The interesting thing to me is that I see absolutely no symptoms of software problems in driving the car, although its powertrain and suspension are rife with sensors and software. I've had an Audi with a bad GM OnStar system that repeatedly drained the battery (and that Audi could never correct, to the point that I traded the car), an Audi with a faulty suspension sensor, a Corvette that I dumped because it went into limp mode several times due to engine sensor failures (one time leaving me stranded on the inside line of I-95 at rush hour), and a Mercedes that had two brake-by-wire failures, including one that blew the alternator. I've had none of this with the Lucid.

I can only conclude that there is something fundamentally different about the software in the drive systems of the car and in the user interface features of the car:

- entirely different software teams, and/or
- purchased software from established vendors for the drive and powertrain systems, and/or
- purchased UI software that has not been well integrated into in-house UI software, and/or
- . . . .

 

[hmp10]

Yeah it’s probably not that then if it was happening before also. The software updates have had to be tailored to different hardware builds due to chip sourcing problems so I’m wondering if your car got a non-standard chip/board that’s issue prone? How often do you need to do a reboot? I think the biggest problem is your camera unreliability. Didn’t Jon Rettinger’s car have that issue more than others? When was the last time you had the noise blast? It happened to me once about 3 months ago when I had just opened the doors when it tried to play music.

I need a reboot every few times I take the car out, which means several times a week. Usually I just live with the glitch until the drive ends and the car reboots itself while parked. Occasionally I have to pull the car off the road to try a reboot, such as when the A/C failed.

I've had the noise blasts three times. The last time was August 25, the day before the car was trucked to the Service Center. (The screen freeze and blackout followed by the A/C shutdown had occurred the prior day.) The incidents were a bit different. They always occur upon boot up of the car, and they do not respond to volume controls. But the first two times, the blasts were intermittent with a 15-20 second interval between each blast. The third time the blast was continuous.

Of all the problems I've had with the car, this is the one that worries me the most. You know from personal experience how ear-splitting that blast is. If it were to occur while we were on a roadway where we could not pull off the road and get away from the car, it would be downright dangerous. The last time it happened passengers were already seated in the rear seats, with the C-pillar speakers right behind their ears. We were still in the garage, and they jumped out of the car so fast that they didn't even close the doors. I had to get back to the car to close them, while the noise continued to blast until the car went to sleep. (I also wonder if any of the speakers have been damaged.)

 

[Bunnylebowski]

I need a reboot every few times I take the car out, which means several times a week. Usually I just live with the glitch until the drive ends and the car reboots itself while parked. Occasionally I have to pull the car off the road to try a reboot, such as when the A/C failed.

I've had the noise blasts three times. The last time was August 25, the day before the car was trucked to the Service Center. (The screen freeze and blackout followed by the A/C shutdown had occurred the prior day.) The incidents were a bit different. They always occur upon boot up of the car, and they do not respond to volume controls. But the first two times, the blasts were intermittent with a 15-20 second interval between each blast. The third time the blast was continuous.

Of all the problems I've had with the car, this is the one that worries me the most. You know from personal experience how ear-splitting that blast is. If it were to occur while we were on a roadway where we could not pull off the road and get away from the car, it would be downright dangerous. The last time it happened passengers were already seated in the rear seats, with the C-pillar speakers right behind their ears. We were still in the garage, and they jumped out of the car so fast that they didn't even close the doors. I had to get back to the car to close them, while the noise continued to blast until the car went to sleep. (I also wonder if any of the speakers have been damaged.)

Having seen this behavior in digital audio systems where the D to A converter sends signal before the auto mute works, I genuinely don’t think it’s possible for this to happen while driving but only while booting up. There were a couple pieces of equipment in the studio I had in my old job where if we needed to turn things off then back on, you had to do it in a certain order otherwise you’d get the noise blast of death at max dB identical to what I experienced in the Lucid and what you described, I think it was always due to the digital to analog converters being turned on after the amplifier. We had Apogee ones that sounded amazing but were glitchy.

 

[hmp10]

Having seen this behavior in digital audio systems where the D to A converter sends signal before the auto mute works, I genuinely don’t think it’s possible for this to happen while driving but only while booting up.

That's something of a relief, because I worry about this more than about the car bricking on the road.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

If I’m remembering correctly (I haven’t set foot in a mixing studio since 2009), the problem can be triggered by a multi-channel DAC not locking onto the digital signal it gets in boot up from its own internal clock, as it interprets the packets it’s seeing as digital ones across the board instead of zeros, and because the amplifier is already on before the DAC finished booting, it now sends an analog signal to the speakers to play all frequencies at max volume, and then the only solution is to turn the DAC off and back on again so that it properly locks onto it’s own clock as to what is a one and zero before it sends the analog signal. Unfortunately in a car there is no separate on/off switch for the DAC and amplifier so your volume knob won’t do anything and you have to just shut the door and reboot the car. This is when it’s a GOOD thing the Lucid doesn’t make you reboot the car from the inside!!!

 

[stratus]

I need a reboot every few times I take the car out, which means several times a week. Usually I just live with the glitch until the drive ends and the car reboots itself while parked. Occasionally I have to pull the car off the road to try a reboot, such as when the A/C failed.

I've had the noise blasts three times. The last time was August 25, the day before the car was trucked to the Service Center. (The screen freeze and blackout followed by the A/C shutdown had occurred the prior day.) The incidents were a bit different. They always occur upon boot up of the car, and they do not respond to volume controls. But the first two times, the blasts were intermittent with a 15-20 second interval between each blast. The third time the blast was continuous.

Of all the problems I've had with the car, this is the one that worries me the most. You know from personal experience how ear-splitting that blast is. If it were to occur while we were on a roadway where we could not pull off the road and get away from the car, it would be downright dangerous. The last time it happened passengers were already seated in the rear seats, with the C-pillar speakers right behind their ears. We were still in the garage, and they jumped out of the car so fast that they didn't even close the doors. I had to get back to the car to close them, while the noise continued to blast until the car went to sleep. (I also wonder if any of the speakers have been damaged.)

I cannot imagine how frustrating this has been for you and I hope there is some resolution in the near future.

Could it be a hardware or firmware issue?
I often wonder how is it possible distinguish between a software issue and a hardware issue that needs component replacement?

I have had the noise blast in other vehicles and it is downright frightening!! I am hoping that never happens to me again.

 

[dawktah LucidGT]

If I’m remembering correctly (I haven’t set foot in a mixing studio since 2009), the problem can be triggered by a multi-channel DAC not locking onto the digital signal it gets in boot up from its own internal clock, as it interprets the packets it’s seeing as digital ones across the board instead of zeros, and because the amplifier is already on before the DAC finished booting, it now sends an analog signal to the speakers to play all frequencies at max volume, and then the only solution is to turn the DAC off and back on again so that it properly locks onto it’s own clock as to what is a one and zero before it sends the analog signal. Unfortunately in a car there is no separate on/off switch for the DAC and amplifier so your volume knob won’t do anything and you have to just shut the door and reboot the car. This is when it’s a GOOD thing the Lucid doesn’t make you reboot the car from the inside!!!

Thanks for explaining this that I've been trying to explain for some time now.

I cannot imagine how frustrating this has been for you and I hope there is some resolution in the near future.

Could it be a hardware or firmware issue?
I often wonder how is it possible distinguish between a software issue and a hardware issue that needs component replacement?

I have had the noise blast in other vehicles and it is downright frightening!! I am hoping that never happens to me again.

I've in the past found if you replace a component and problem persists it's internal to that single components software. Goes away it was hardware. Unfortunately, I've never had to deal with anything more complex than a stereo/ home theater system or when I have built PCs and servers.

 

[HC_79]

I got stranded in Winnemucca when I first moved cross-country from NH to CA, and man, what a weird little casino town.

At least it has some EA chargers

 

[daydreamer223]

At least it has some EA chargers

I’ve never heard of this winnemucca before but I have a mental note to keep a wide berth now…

 

[stratus]

I’ve never heard of this winnemucca before but I have a mental note to keep a wide berth now…

Poor Winnemucca. It really is fun to say it though. There must be a song about it.

 

[Coho]

Poor Winnemucca. It really is fun to say it though. There must be a song about it.

It will now be famous but it always was - home of the phrase Buckeroos. And the buckeroos. Not far from the area of nuclear tests and yet not too far from the loneliest road in America. They do speak English but the place is different. Its midway to everywhere so I80travelers stop off for a good time.

 

[MeltingJax]

I am sure this has been discussed, but I get frustrated with the driver profiles. We have 3 drivers that use the Air, so we tend to be switching the profile every time we get in the car. While the profile name changes 90% of the time the seats, wheels, mirrors dont adjust to the proper profile. Sometimes, about half the time, it asks if you want to load preferences, and about 1/2 of those times it actually does load the profile preferences. Even if I go into 'Seats' expecting to see the 'Restore" option, it isn't highlighted. The second time I get in the car with the same profile, it seems to work.

Love the car, but this, the radio just randomly stopping playing, and not being able to easily use homelink after backing out of the garage(have to shut the cameras down, navigate to the profile, press the Homelink icon, press the garage button) are annoying.

 

[mcr16]

My biggest issue that has come for me with 1.2.17 is that if you drive over 85 mph and wearing sun glasses, you keep getting dinged with the errors that you are not watching the road, or pay attention. It doesnt happen if I remove my sunglasses. Not sure , why they would add this in. I turned on off those warnings in the DreamDrive settings and all seems to be good for now.

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your experience. I DM'd you for additional information for further follow-up on our side.

Regards,

Marqie

 

[stratus]

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your experience. I DM'd you for additional information for further follow-up on our side.

Regards,

Marqie

I have never seen a response like this on the forums and it is my understanding that Lucid officials or employees are instructed not to respond , in an official capacity?

Has there been a change in policy?

 

[Bobby]

I have never seen a response like this on the forums and it is my understanding that Lucid officials or employees are instructed not to respond , in an official capacity?

Has there been a change in policy?

It’s a good thing, why question it?