Newbie buying Lucid Air Touring - Question regarding charger

hawkeyedesi

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Hi Everyone,

I have attached photos of my circuit. The previous homeowners had a hard-wired charger, and they took it with them. I am trying to determine whether I should purchase the Lucid charger vs. a 3rd party one vs. just having a 220V outlet installed.

Can someone guide me based on my electric panel on what's recommended to maximize the power output? The "220 Garage" is what's hard-wired, and it each breaker is 40 volts, so I believe that translates to 80 Volts. Your input will allow me to get better quotes from electricians.

Thank you!

Varun
 

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You mean 40 amps. Max you‘ll be able to pull is 32 amps per breaker as you must derate to 80%.
 
You mean 40 amps. Max you‘ll be able to pull is 32 amps per breaker as you must derate to 80%.
Have an electrician evaluate the entire system.
 
With that low of an amperage available, just buy a 3rd party unit that pulls 32 amps or is flexible where you can set it to pull as low as 32 amps (flexible EVSE future proofs so if you upgrade the circuit, you can change the amperage the unit pulls, usually to a max of 50 amps) and hardwire the unit to the 40 amp circuit.

The Lucid unit is very expensive ($1200) vs. third party EvSEs which might max out at 32 or 50 amps (1/3 to 1/2 the price). Unless you have a 100 amp circuit, or plan to upgrade to that, it just doesn’t make sense to buy it and set it to pull 32 amps.

You can have an electrician look at your service to see if you can have a 100 amp circuit on it. In reality, changing it to a 60 amp breaker, updating the wiring and buying something like a ChargePoint Flex to run at 48 amps may be your best option if you want more power.

amps*240 volts = kW it will pull in one hour. You can calculate how long it will take to charge your Lucid at different amperages
 
I purchased a Tesla charger, when I moved in I had a choice of two types - one would only charge Tesla's and one that charged Teslas (but required a converter) but also could charge most EV's using the standard plug.

Works great and not sure if it still applies, but you could get a tax credit for the unit and installation.
 
With that low of an amperage available, just buy a 3rd party unit that pulls 32 amps or is flexible where you can set it to pull as low as 32 amps (flexible EVSE future proofs so if you upgrade the circuit, you can change the amperage the unit pulls, usually to a max of 50 amps) and hardwire the unit to the 40 amp circuit.

The Lucid unit is very expensive ($1200) vs. third party EvSEs which might max out at 32 or 50 amps (1/3 to 1/2 the price). Unless you have a 100 amp circuit, or plan to upgrade to that, it just doesn’t make sense to buy it and set it to pull 32 amps.

You can have an electrician look at your service to see if you can have a 100 amp circuit on it. In reality, changing it to a 60 amp breaker, updating the wiring and buying something like a ChargePoint Flex to run at 48 amps may be your best option if you want more power.

amps*240 volts = kW it will pull in one hour. You can calculate how long it will take to charge your Lucid at different amperages
I agree. A Wallbox or similar is more than sufficient for 32A or even 48A
 
So what is the downside to just having a 220V plug.... AKA a dryer plug? My son has had a number of teslas and says thats all they ever used?
 
So what is the downside to just having a 220V plug.... AKA a dryer plug? My son has had a number of teslas and says thats all they ever used?
No downside. Take a long at the amperage of the breaker.
 
Second Bobby’s comment. I’ve just used the wall plug (old dryer plug) for my Teslas and now for the Lucid with the 14-30 adapter. Charges fine at about 20 miles/hr. The biggest issue was no scheduled charging in the Lucid but that has been fixed in the latest OTAs.
 
Second Bobby’s comment. I’ve just used the wall plug (old dryer plug) for my Teslas and now for the Lucid with the 14-30 adapter. Charges fine at about 20 miles/hr. The biggest issue was no scheduled charging in the Lucid but that has been fixed in the latest OTAs.
So just placed a three prong to 14-30 adapter between dryer plug and the Lucid 14-30 adapter?
 
@hawkeyedesi given your existing situation, I'd just have an electrician hardwire a Chargepoint Home Flex, or Enelex Juicebox 40, or Wallbox Pulsar Plus home charging station to the existing circuit. Costco sells the Juicebox 40 at a reasonable price.
 
@hawkeyedesi given your existing situation, I'd just have an electrician hardwire a Chargepoint Home Flex, or Enelex Juicebox 40, or Wallbox Pulsar Plus home charging station to the existing circuit. Costco sells the Juicebox 40 at a reasonable price.
Just couldn’t use dryer and charge at the same time, correct?

Mostly looking for temp/backup solution while I get estimates for a hardwire install. Main panel is 60-75 ft from garage site. :-(
 
Just couldn’t use dryer and charge at the same time, correct?
Mostly looking for temp/backup solution while I get estimates for a hardwire install. Main panel is 60-75 ft from garage site. :-(
This will let you use both without plugging/unplugging, which is not a good long-term idea:
 
This will let you use both without plugging/unplugging, which is not a good long-term idea:

Wow, NEO has adapters for many odd and old NEMA configurations.

Cool idea, but @DeaneG , they rely on plugging into your existing 30 or 50 amp 240v receptacle. If your existing receptacle is a 30 year old cheap and worn Leviton, you are asking for charging failures or worse plugging a splitter into it. And a splitter now with two EVs or two appliances!! On the other hand, if an owner replaces their existing old 240v NEMA receptacle with an industrial Hubbell Bryant or Eaton/Cooper NEMA 14-30 then the splitter could be a great long term good solution for EV and a dryer.
 
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