Mileage help

Bannyl

New Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2023
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8
Cars
Lucid Touring
How do you Maximus your efficiency in this vehicle. I often take a trip that requires 110 miles and 110 back so a total of 220. If I charge to 426 out the drive way I get home with 30 miles left of that. Is this normal. How can I be losing 100 miles plus on this trip. That seems like a lot. I’m not using my AC or heater besides the seat heater.
 
How do you Maximus your efficiency in this vehicle. I often take a trip that requires 110 miles and 110 back so a total of 220. If I charge to 426 out the drive way I get home with 30 miles left of that. Is this normal. How can I be losing 100 miles plus on this trip. That seems like a lot. I’m not using my AC or heater besides the seat heater.
There are dozens of threads on this topic already. But the short of it:

1) Speed - The number one factor on your efficiency is how fast you are going. Drag increases exponentially with speed, not linearly. So the difference between 70 mph and 80 mph is huge. Keep it under 70 or 75 if you can.
2) Outside temperature - You will not get as good mileage in the cold as you do in the warmer months. Even if you aren't running heat or AC, the battery has to be kept at an optimal temperature, which costs energy.
3) Inclement weather - Rain or snow will definitely cut your range, because it adds friction
4) Wind speed - Driving into a headwind, of course, will effect your range
5) Elevation - Climbing up can cost quite a bit. But assuming you are coming back down on the way back, it should almost even out. You can usually gain energy on the way down a mountain, thanks to regen.

Having said all this, my Touring can still get between 250-280 miles in the dead of winter. If I keep my speed down. If I drive without regard for my speed, my numbers would be in line with what you are reporting.

Also, pro tip: Pay no attention to the "miles" on your car. Switch to percentage. Percentage is based on your actual battery percentage. Miles is an estimate based on ideal EPA conditions, which you are clearly not driving in.

Lean to calculate your remaining miles based on your current percentage and your recent efficiency. It'll be far more accurate.
 
There are dozens of threads on this topic already. But the short of it:

1) Speed - The number one factor on your efficiency is how fast you are going. Drag increases exponentially with speed, not linearly. So the difference between 70 mph and 80 mph is huge. Keep it under 70 or 75 if you can.
2) Outside temperature - You will not get as good mileage in the cold as you do in the warmer months. Even if you aren't running heat or AC, the battery has to be kept at an optimal temperature, which costs energy.
3) Inclement weather - Rain or snow will definitely cut your range, because it adds friction
4) Wind speed - Driving into a headwind, of course, will effect your range
5) Elevation - Climbing up can cost quite a bit. But assuming you are coming back down on the way back, it should almost even out. You can usually gain energy on the way down a mountain, thanks to regen.

Having said all this, my Touring can still get between 250-280 miles in the dead of winter. If I keep my speed down. If I drive without regard for my speed, my numbers would be in line with what you are reporting.

Also, pro tip: Pay no attention to the "miles" on your car. Switch to percentage. Percentage is based on your actual battery percentage. Miles is an estimate based on ideal EPA conditions, which you are clearly not driving in.

Lean to calculate your remaining miles based on your current percentage and your recent efficiency. It'll be far more accurate.
You should save this answer and copy/paste it whenever we get the same question.
 
Yeah make this sticky. Perhaps, add an example on how to calculate the remaining miles based on actual miles/KWh.
 
Thats some harsh stuff only getting 250 miles out of 426. How fast do you guys drive? I can't do less than 80 on the highway. I get a physical reaction if I do anything but 😂
 
There are dozens of threads on this topic already. But the short of it:

1) Speed - The number one factor on your efficiency is how fast you are going. Drag increases exponentially with speed, not linearly. So the difference between 70 mph and 80 mph is huge. Keep it under 70 or 75 if you can.
2) Outside temperature - You will not get as good mileage in the cold as you do in the warmer months. Even if you aren't running heat or AC, the battery has to be kept at an optimal temperature, which costs energy.
3) Inclement weather - Rain or snow will definitely cut your range, because it adds friction
4) Wind speed - Driving into a headwind, of course, will effect your range
5) Elevation - Climbing up can cost quite a bit. But assuming you are coming back down on the way back, it should almost even out. You can usually gain energy on the way down a mountain, thanks to regen.

Having said all this, my Touring can still get between 250-280 miles in the dead of winter. If I keep my speed down. If I drive without regard for my speed, my numbers would be in line with what you are reporting.

Also, pro tip: Pay no attention to the "miles" on your car. Switch to percentage. Percentage is based on your actual battery percentage. Miles is an estimate based on ideal EPA conditions, which you are clearly not driving in.

Lean to calculate your remaining miles based on your current percentage and your recent efficiency. It'll be far more accurate.
Great post. Right on. I drive at 75+ on the highway and most of my urban streets are 40/45/50 mph and police generally allow up to 10 mph above before citing you. I like to pass slower drivers and enjoy the feeling when I step on the accelerator. Bottom line, My miles per kilowatt hour for my entire ownership experience is sitting at 2.9. If I just did the speed adjustment it would probably go to 3.2 or so and if I really cared and drove to maximize range I would probably get more than 4.0.

But, fortunately for me, I don't care. So I just enjoy driving. I charge overnight to 80% and that has been more than adequate for me (about 12K miles per year).
 
Great post. Right on. I drive at 75+ on the highway and most of my urban streets are 40/45/50 mph and police generally allow up to 10 mph above before citing you. I like to pass slower drivers and enjoy the feeling when I step on the accelerator. Bottom line, My miles per kilowatt hour for my entire ownership experience is sitting at 2.9. If I just did the speed adjustment it would probably go to 3.2 or so and if I really cared and drove to maximize range I would probably get more than 4.0.

But, fortunately for me, I don't care. So I just enjoy driving. I charge overnight to 80% and that has been more than adequate for me (about 12K miles per year).
So Steve, now that your hip surgery is in the ‘distant’ past and your mobility has improved, any thoughts about trading the Genesis for the Lucid?
 
So Steve, now that your hip surgery is in the ‘distant’ past and your mobility has improved, any thoughts about trading the Genesis for the Lucid?
I have thought about it but the depreciation would take a hit on my kids' and grandkids' inheritance as well as the lack of a trade-in option by Lucid (no sales tax in Arizona on the trade-in amount). Plus, the Lucid is a bit larger than I like (as was my BMW 5 series). And I do like my GV60P. It doesn't have the range of the Lucid but I haven't needed it. It also doesn't handle like the Lucid which I dearly miss; a crossover just doesn't do the twisties like a sedan. But, on the other hand, it is easier to get in and out of, the garage door opener works well and everytime (on the mirror like most cars) and it has native SXM. Trade offs. Ideally, Lucid would come out with its Tesla Y killer but include the options to lux it up. A smaller but equally luxurious performance Lucid EV would cause me to do so immediately. But...like many...I do sometimes get bored by cars so in a couple of years...............
 
Understood. Interestingly, I’ve found I actually prefer streaming XM to the native XM because of the many extra channels that come with streaming and the better audio quality as the result of less compression. I got accustomed to that in the i4.
 
Understood. Interestingly, I’ve found I actually prefer streaming XM to the native XM because of the many extra channels that come with streaming and the better audio quality as the result of less compression. I got accustomed to that in the i4.
Actually, same here. And I like the way it starts a song when you change to a station, so you don't miss half of it. Plus it works in covered parking garages and under bridges, since it's not looking for a satellite. At first it was flaky about working at all, but now it very rarely doesn't play.
 
Getting about 3.3 mi / kWh (GT / 11 k miles / 15 months / 19" and 21" alternate tires )

In the GT I can go 300+ miles without a worry . (except for pee)

get into the 4.0 mi/kWh when city driving / local driving.

I'm more than pleased with this car.

As sporty as it is, I find myself driving more efficiently and leisurely.
(Not so sure that's a good thing as my attention wanders...)

I have no need to prove the EPA 500+ mile range claimed from 100% charge to 0% charge.
I figured 80% of that is 400 miles. I figured I was buying a best case 400 mile car, with a practical range of 80% of that, which is 320 miles, which is what I'm seeing.

Could not be happier with my car.
 
If you are getting 80% Then it's good I am getting 220 230 which way too low frm the actual
 
There are dozens of threads on this topic already. But the short of it:

1) Speed - The number one factor on your efficiency is how fast you are going. Drag increases exponentially with speed, not linearly. So the difference between 70 mph and 80 mph is huge. Keep it under 70 or 75 if you can.
2) Outside temperature - You will not get as good mileage in the cold as you do in the warmer months. Even if you aren't running heat or AC, the battery has to be kept at an optimal temperature, which costs energy.
3) Inclement weather - Rain or snow will definitely cut your range, because it adds friction
4) Wind speed - Driving into a headwind, of course, will effect your range
5) Elevation - Climbing up can cost quite a bit. But assuming you are coming back down on the way back, it should almost even out. You can usually gain energy on the way down a mountain, thanks to regen.

Having said all this, my Touring can still get between 250-280 miles in the dead of winter. If I keep my speed down. If I drive without regard for my speed, my numbers would be in line with what you are reporting.

Also, pro tip: Pay no attention to the "miles" on your car. Switch to percentage. Percentage is based on your actual battery percentage. Miles is an estimate based on ideal EPA conditions, which you are clearly not driving in.

Lean to calculate your remaining miles based on your current percentage and your recent efficiency. It'll be far more accurate.
This is one of the best answers to any forum question I've seen asked in the forums. This should be the first or second page in first time EV owners' manual, not just Air owners. Kudos!

PS - Only thing I might add is how hard owners accelerate at stops. The torque in our cars is incredible but it consumes a lot of energy when going 0-60 in 3s.
 
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