How Much Range Are You Actually Getting?

How Much Range Are You Actually Getting?

  • 100% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 8 2.9%
  • 90% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 22 7.9%
  • 80% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 108 38.8%
  • 70% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 96 34.5%
  • 60% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 31 11.2%
  • 50% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 11 4.0%
  • 40% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 2 0.7%
  • 30% Of Estimated Range

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    278
... I am going from 80% full to 80% full to get the efficiency. It’s the same way I calculate on an ICE. Full tank to full tank. Miles driven between fill ups / gallons delivered (Delivered = received since I am not pouring gas on the ground). In an EV, though, I have to calculate kWh received since there are heat losses (Delivered does not equal received). so can’t use kWh delivered (but that is how one would calculate real fuel cost per mile). ...
There are several interesting measures, one is range, but another is that energy used to miles driven, and that would include the waste energy expended during fueling (sorta like in an ICE when you lose some to vapor escape, something that was worse decades ago, but is now reduced by law with vapor capture systems during fueling).
 
In between drives in hot garage and hearing BMS fan regulating temperature to cranking AC hard due to July heat all are huge factors. I have 21’ and getting 3.1~3.2 kWh, so that’s 360 miles, I can assume seeing vast improvement in autumn and after I pass 2-3k miles mark. At this point, these EPA miles numbers to me are just optimization of continuous road trip in ideal weather condition without interruptions as in the city.
 
I’m starting to get concerned as I’m still averaging about 2.4-2.5 KWh pretty consistently. That equates to barely 60% or about 285 miles of range. I really expected the car to realistically be in the 350-375 Mile area of range. I do live on a steep hill ( about 500 feet elevation) that I travel twice a day going to and from work but I’m not goosing the car nearly what I used to in the first heady month of ownership. I also don’t always put it back in the garage but it hasn’t been that hot in the north east. I now have 3100 miles on the car so it should be fairly broken in.I’m running the 21 inch rims and tires. Any suggestions?
 
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I’m starting to get concerned as I’m still averaging about 2.4-2.5 KWh pretty consistently. That equates to barely 60% or about 285 miles of range. I really expected the car to realistically be in the 350-375 Mile area of range. I do live on a steep hill ( about 500 feet elevation) that I travel twice a day going to and from work but I’m not goosing the car nearly what I used to in the first heady month of ownership. I also don’t always put it back in the garage but it hasn’t been that hot in the north east. I now have 3100 miles on the car so it should be fairly broken in.I’m running the 21 inch rims and tires. Any suggestions?
How often you drive? I suspect these BMS fan motors are cause of phantom drain and low kWh numbers.
 
How often you drive? I suspect these BMS fan motors are cause of phantom drain and low kWh numbers.
I drive 2-3 times a day. two 11 mile round trips to work then dinner/ gym / movie at night for 30 miles
 
I drive 2-3 times a day. two 11 mile round trips to work then dinner/ gym / movie at night for 30 miles
Like EPA City/Hwy publish different number, you are in very low end of city….
 
I assume your tire pressure is ok? I think steep hill climbing destroys the range much more than regen can recover though so maybe it’s that simple?
 
I assume your tire pressure is ok? I think steep hill climbing destroys the range much more than regen can recover though so maybe it’s that simple?
I know I’m only getting about 2/3 recovery on the regen but still. Oh the tires are at 41lbs
 
I know I’m only getting about 2/3 recovery on the regen but still. Oh the tires are at 41lbs
Lucid recommends 42 lbs all around on the 21" wheels on my Dream. However, I try to keep them at 44 cold as my experience with Pirelli tires is they wear better at slightly higher pressures, otherwise the sidewall tread tends to wear more than the center tread. When I used to track my 911 we used chalk on the tires to ensure we were getting the best wear pattern which also gave us the best handling.
 
Lucid recommends 42 lbs all around on the 21" wheels on my Dream. However, I try to keep them at 44 cold as my experience with Pirelli tires is they wear better at slightly higher pressures, otherwise the sidewall tread tends to wear more than the center tread. When I used to track my 911 we used chalk on the tires to ensure we were getting the best wear pattern which also gave us the best handling.
Thanks for this info. I was playing around with tire pressures but I think will now settle with your recommendation of 44. I went up to around 46-48 thinking that I could increase range but so far I’m not really seeing that 🤷‍♂️
 
The US doesn't have to mandate it. Every other automaker has adopted CSS at this point. Tesla has to use CSS in Europe, anyway. They want to open up the charging network to make more money on non-Tesla customers. So superchargers are going to have CSS plugs eventually.

It's pretty much a no-brainer for Elon to ditch the proprietary connector at some point in the US. Who knows when? But they will do it. Just for the simplicity of it.
Elon’s not exactly known to pull out of stuff but once in a blue moon he does ;)
 
I know I’m only getting about 2/3 recovery on the regen but still. Oh the tires are at 41lbs
The range definitely goes into the toilet on climbs, and it will also really jump around A LOT if you're looking at 20-30 miles total per day. For example, it's a good 10 mile downhill to take my son to work. The other day I went to go pick him up in the evening and intentionally trying to maximize regen, I had it as high as 6.1 at 13 miles. But a quick acceleration to pass someone dropped it into the 4s followed by a climb back into the 5s with a hard regen slowdown for a light. Then, of course, heading back, it went down dramatically to finish at about 3.1 because I had to do the same 10 miles up the hill.

My suggestion is to take a road trip of about 100 miles somewhere that's relatively flat. Set the speed on ACC somewhere around 75 and use that as somewhat of a baseline. Also, it will be helpful if it's not super hot outside. But covering shorter differences acceleration and regen really wreaks havoc on what your range is showing. Now if you've already done something similar and it's still that low that doesn't sound right at all.

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I’ll up my tire pressure to 44 lbs and see if the decrease in rolling resistance helps. I could also keep the AC off 66degrees with the fans on 10 but it does take a long time to cool the car down in the sun even with the latest update. I sometimes run in sprint but it’s my understanding that if you are not “using “ it it shouldn’t affect your range. Maybe lower the volume on the radio?
 
I do believe that being in sprint mode is a greater battery drain since the mode itself (and increased horsepower) is ‘in use’ constantly while driving regardless of how you’re driving but I could be wrong.
 
I do believe that being in sprint mode is a greater battery drain since the mode itself (and increased horsepower) is ‘in use’ constantly while driving regardless of how you’re driving but I could be wrong.
Correct and the bms fans are running to keep the battery in optimal temp
 
Correct and the bms fans are running to keep the battery in optimal temp
Wouldn't the BMS be running in all of the modes? Or is it trying to do a better job optimizing the battery in sprint mode (if so, is the same true in swift mode too)?
I suspect there are also other settings (e.g. regen, etc) that affect the battery usage in non-Smooth mode.
It would be nice to have a 3 column chart of all the settings that are modified by each mode (and effects such as the battery usage).
 
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