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What would you like to see from the Lucid mobile app?

What's the time frame look like?
I haven't driven in 20 hours and when I opened the app it showed the psi numbers.

But I've never had it not work
hmm .. not sure, but I came back about 2 hours ago and this is what my app looks like rn..
IMG_5325.PNG

Eventually, it'll show "--" for all 4 tires
 
That's hard core. I think you need a bigger plug! Nope - mine just says "--". Maybe there's a setting I'm unaware of.
 
Have a 80A being hardwired next week
I'm not sure of the value of going with an 80A. You have to have a 100A circuit to use it. Yes - you'll get 80 miles or so per hour - but the mobile charger give me about 38 miles per hour on a 60A circuit. The only reason I'd consider the $1200 charger is to possibly go V2H. I'm curious how the process for that would work and what kind of sign-off from the power company you'd need. Also - there would have to be some sort of handshake in the system to know there's a cutoff in place - otherwise people could install it and just push juice out to the world (not a pretty picture).
 
I'm not sure of the value of going with an 80A. You have to have a 100A circuit to use it. Yes - you'll get 80 miles or so per hour - but the mobile charger give me about 38 miles per hour on a 60A circuit. The only reason I'd consider the $1200 charger is to possibly go V2H. I'm curious how the process for that would work and what kind of sign-off from the power company you'd need. Also - there would have to be some sort of handshake in the system to know there's a cutoff in place - otherwise people could install it and just push juice out to the world (not a pretty picture).
I get 80% off rebate with my power company (full Juicebox 80A is costing me a few hundred only), I'm rated at 150 amps, and I have a gas stove, my electrician told me the only thing using my power rn is heating and dryer, and it's rare to use dryer all night so probably just my heating. He said I'll be fine

Lucid charger doesn't qualify for the rebate, and my power never goes out. So not too interested in V2H
 
I'm not sure of the value of going with an 80A. You have to have a 100A circuit to use it. Yes - you'll get 80 miles or so per hour - but the mobile charger give me about 38 miles per hour on a 60A circuit. The only reason I'd consider the $1200 charger is to possibly go V2H. I'm curious how the process for that would work and what kind of sign-off from the power company you'd need. Also - there would have to be some sort of handshake in the system to know there's a cutoff in place - otherwise people could install it and just push juice out to the world (not a pretty picture).
I think the power company needs to know only if it is V2G such as solar charging your car during the day and connected to the grid at night. If it V2H and there is a disconnect (either manual or on power failure) and your home sub-breaker panel is disconnected from the grid and powered by the car, the power company should not care. In such a case, I would imagine that the $1200 "charger" would have 1 input connection from the main breaker to it, an output to your sub circuit breaker. In normal power, the input connects to the charger and also gets bypassed to your sub circuit panel so that the power company is powering it. I hope that circuit of the $1200 charger is published for all to see.
 
I think the power company needs to know only if it is V2G such as solar charging your car during the day and connected to the grid at night. If it V2H and there is a disconnect (either manual or on power failure) and your home sub-breaker panel is disconnected from the grid and powered by the car, the power company should not care. In such a case, I would imagine that the $1200 "charger" would have 1 input connection from the main breaker to it, an output to your sub circuit breaker. In normal power, the input connects to the charger and also gets bypassed to your sub circuit panel so that the power company is powering it. I hope that circuit of the $1200 charger is published for all to see.
In general - I agree with your premise - but I'm a bit concerned that even though power from our solar won't go to the grid, perhaps power from our car might. I suppose I'd need to discuss this with the power company/solar company to determine how that cutoff works and what situations dictate. My gut tells me we should be able to run battery backup so the power cutoff already takes care of everything. And that's great. But if you didn't already have something similar in place - the power company would most definitely want protection.
They won't just let you say "We'll flip the switch" and trust you. It has to be a physical device.
Also - there is likely more to it because when the grid goes down - we go down - we can't use our solar when power is off. I'm guessing that means the cutoff is on the this side of the meter.
If no additional hardware is necessary - that's a pretty good thing. Then it's just a matter of changing a little bit of wiring and a breaker. We'll see.
 
First, and I’m pretty sure I’m not the only person who’s mentioned this, I do not necessarily want the car to start waking up just because I open the app…
Second, there are plenty of times when you’d like to unlock the doors just to get say sunglasses out or a jacket that you left in the car and you don’t want your whole thing loading up, and there are other times when you’d like to unlock the car and load a specific profile. It should be pretty straightforward to add the ability when you click the unlock button to be offered to choose a profile or unlock doors only.

For example, you and your wife both have keys on you and you’re about to leave the house and she was the last person to drive but you want to drive… Open the app click the door lock, and it pops up with four choices: the three profiles, and doors only. it seems super straightforward and it would save a lot of energy and time in many cases.
I definitely agree with the second. Only on day three, but it is puzzling that when I go out to my locked garage to just retrieve an item from the car, the only way to open brings up everything - headlights, climate control, radio, etc. Hopefully this will be addressed in the future.
 
At least on my Android phone, the user manual in the app is pretty much useless. Tap on a topic, and most of the time nothing shows up. The user manual also desperately needs a search function. If like to set up a new user profile and keys, and there's no way to find the topic in the manual. Would be far ahead just downloading a pdf.
Search function is desperately needed. Was amazed that I needed to save pdf to my phone in order to work around this!
 
I have Android 1.27.0, I drove the car two hours ago and when I check I get 4 "-"'s as well.
It'll reset to - after its been sitting a while.
 
Adding to my list...

- more stock images for your Avatar - perhaps including the ones in the car for other profiles would be a good start.
 
Greetings Lucid Owners. If you had a magic wand, what enhancements or additions would you like to see made to the Lucid mobile app? Asking for a friend. ;)
Two things:

1. Ability to roll the windows down from app.

2. I would like to see a mirror retract option after unlocking.

I park close to a post in the garage, crap design in my garage. When I open the doors, I can clear the post enough to get out with the mirrors retracted but can’t get in without it retracted.
 
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