NEMA vs Lucid Charging Station vs Tesla Wall Connector

[EVCar]

EV charging won't cause transients on your home's power. If you live in an area with frequent lightning, or like I do, have overhead high voltage lines that are sometimes subject to arcing from nearby tall trees, I think it's definitely worth having a whole-house surge suppressor installed when the electrician has your panel open anyway. Material cost is about $100 and labor is minimal.

Just gone one installed. About $300 and change. A weird thing about the one I got is that there’s no reset. If a surge occurs, the protector would just get fried and a new one is needed.
I‘ve not heard of this type of surge protector. Supposed to be ”good.”

 

[segbrk]

Just gone one installed. About $300 and change. A weird thing about the one I got is that there’s no reset. If a surge occurs, the protector would just get fried and a new one is needed.
I‘ve not heard of this type of surge protector. Supposed to be ”good.”

I have the same. I think most if not all surge suppressors are disposable like that. They are different from the surge protectors you use for your TVs and computers which are more like breakers. They are supposed to catch and redirect shocks to ground rather than just tripping and preventing a shock from hitting your appliances. That's my understanding anyway.

 

[DeaneG]

Just gone one installed. About $300 and change. A weird thing about the one I got is that there’s no reset. If a surge occurs, the protector would just get fried and a new one is needed.
I‘ve not heard of this type of surge protector. Supposed to be ”good.”

Right, that's how they work. A smaller surge won't permanently damage the suppressor. A really big surge could, but that's cheaper than having to replace your desktop computer or TV.
240V surge suppressors have two lights on them to tell you that they're still functional. A 120V surge suppressor outlet strip works the same way on a much smaller scale, with only one light.

 

[EVCar]

I have the same. I think most if not all surge suppressors are disposable like that. They are different from the surge protectors you use for your TVs and computers which are more like breakers. They are supposed to catch and redirect shocks to ground rather than just tripping and preventing a shock from hitting your appliances. That's my understanding anyway.

Right, that's how they work. A smaller surge won't permanently damage the suppressor. A really big surge could, but that's cheaper than having to replace your desktop computer or TV.
240V surge suppressors have two lights on them to tell you that they're still functional. A 120V surge suppressor outlet strip works the same way on a much smaller scale, with only one light.

Thanks for the clarification.
Follow-up question is what to do after a surge.
Do you have a spare one at home to put in? I assume no electricity until a new one is installed unless there's a bypass mechanism.
And getting an electrician to do a service call in my area sometimes requires an act of Congress.

 

[DeaneG]

Thanks for the clarification.
Follow-up question is what to do after a surge.
Do you have a spare one at home to put in? I assume no electricity until a new one is installed unless there's a bypass mechanism.
And getting an electrician to do a service call in my area sometimes requires an act of Congress.

If a surge suppressor is damaged by a surge, it no longer protects your home, but everything in your home continues to operate as normal. The suppressor does not interrupt power to your home in the event of a surge. It just clamps the voltage spike across the power lines, or from a line to ground, to a safe level of a few hundred volts.

 

[EVCar]

If a surge suppressor is damaged by a surge, it no longer protects your home, but everything in your home continues to operate as normal. The suppressor does not interrupt power to your home in the event of a surge. It just clamps the voltage spike across the power lines, or from a line to ground, to a safe level of a few hundred volts.

I'm glad that there's no interruption.
I suppose I may see a flicker or two, right?
I gather that once in a while I'd need to check the surge protector and see if the 2 lights are on.

 

[DeaneG]

I'm glad that there's no interruption.
I suppose I may see a flicker or two, right?
I gather that once in a while I'd need to check the surge protector and see if the 2 lights are on.

If it's a lightning surge, you won't see a thing. If from arcing, the lights will definitely be flickering.
I've installed mine and more or less forgotten about it unless I open the breaker panel, then I see the 2 lights.

 

[momo3605]

I have the universal tesla wall connector and it comes with it's own little adapter. Since it's made by Tesla, maybe you could just buy one from them? I don't know if they sell it separately though, but wouldn't hurt to ask

Also, I wouldn't worry about using the Lectron adapter since it's UL certified now. It's used by a lot of people these days without issue

 

[amperage]

Thought I'd provide an update regarding the Lucid home charging station install: I am consistently getting 75-78 mi/hr when charging my Air GT even when the car is near the 80% SOC mark. Truly amazing charge speeds, particularly compared to my Tesla wall connector (previous car was a Model 3). For reference, I have the Lucid station set up with 2 AWG copper conductors, 100A breaker, and the unit set to allow 80A. If you're considering having it installed, I'd say go for it!

 

[DeaneG]

Thought I'd provide an update regarding the Lucid home charging station install: I am consistently getting 75-78 mi/hr when charging my Air GT even when the car is near the 80% SOC mark. Truly amazing charge speeds, particularly compared to my Tesla wall connector (previous car was a Model 3)....

The Air can charge using level 2 (AC) at up to 80 amps, while the Model 3 is limited to 32 to 48 amps depending on the model. With the right home charging station, Lucid cars are considerably more capable.

 

[rdevillers]

Does the Lucid home charger have a button on it that tells the Lucid to open the chargeport door? I have gotten so used to that with the Teslas. Very convenient.

 

[hydbob]

Does the Lucid home charger have a button on it that tells the Lucid to open the chargeport door? I have gotten so used to that with the Teslas. Very convenient.

No, but you can just push the door from the outside

 

[Volund]

1) 14-50 receptacles are limited to a 50A breaker
2) I was in the same situation and just swapped Lucid's Home Charging System in to replace my hardwired Tesla Wall Connector (both at 60A breaker). Works great and I didn't need to have new wires run. I may upgrade the LHCS to a 100-amp connection if/when V2H is released - hence the purchase of the LHCS rather than a ChargePoint Home Flex for this spot.

I had a friend tell me they had a dual connector, that's a receptacle. They have a hardwired 80A line but also have the ability to plug in, is this even possible? I didn't think so
Because if he has a 80A charger plugged in, it would lower the amps delivered because it's not hardwired right?
I'm not an electrician, I don't even know if it's possible what he was trying to explain

 

[DeaneG]

I had a friend tell me they had a dual connector, that's a receptacle. They have a hardwired 80A line but also have the ability to plug in, is this even possible? I didn't think so
Because if he has a 80A charger plugged in, it would lower the amps delivered because it's not hardwired right?

A charging station circuit should be "dedicated", meaning nothing else connects to it - just a single receptacle or hardwired charging station. Is it possible your friend had two circuits installed?

 

[borski]

Does the Lucid home charger have a button on it that tells the Lucid to open the chargeport door? I have gotten so used to that with the Teslas. Very convenient.

No, but that also means that anyone walking by your car can’t open your charge port either.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

I'm glad that there's no interruption.
I suppose I may see a flicker or two, right?
I gather that once in a while I'd need to check the surge protector and see if the 2 lights are on.

Yep, simply look for the lights. The Siemens ones I use have a buzzer and light, and are wired to a dedicated breaker.

Think of the surge device giving it's life versus your fancy appliance or fridge.

I have "lost" two $180 Siemens devices. Both from idiot street racers hitting poles or a substation.

Denver and Colorado is number one in lightening strikes. Denver code now requires whole surge devices on new construction. Now, every device has a microprocessor.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

If it's a lightning surge, you won't see a thing. If from arcing, the lights will definitely be flickering.
I've installed mine and more or less forgotten about it unless I open the breaker panel, then I see the 2 lights.

I think the Denver code requires the lights are visible from the outside of the panel. See photo. Go big or go home.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

Right, that's how they work. A smaller surge won't permanently damage the suppressor. A really big surge could, but that's cheaper than having to replace your desktop computer or TV.
240V surge suppressors have two lights on them to tell you that they're still functional. A 120V surge suppressor outlet strip works the same way on a much smaller scale, with only one light.

Following up @DeaneG advice, you should have both types: whole house for when a kid plows his Miata into a substation, and a quality surge strip for computers, TVs. An LG engineer recommended a $15 one device surge for any new fancy fridge.

One thing to note, whole house devices are deflecting surges all the time. You never know about it. It's only when a surge is so extreme that the devices gives it's life to clamp the voltage.

A friend argued with me that his expensive equipment surge protectors were enough. A snowstorm felled a tree in his alley, and he lost his induction to cooktop and microwave. And one of his surge strips "liquidified."

The more microprocessors we have and the dirtier the grid and the more bizarre the weather, the more crucial good surge protectors will be.

 

[EVCar]

I think the Denver code requires the lights are visible from the outside of the panel. See photo. Go big or go home.

In Az, with the summer heat, an external surge protector won't last long. Mine is installed inside the main panel.
It's kind of a nuisance having to open it to check on the lights. In the 3 months that I've had it, I've checked only once.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

In Az, with the summer heat, an external surge protector won't last long. Mine is installed inside the main panel.
It's kind of a nuisance having to open it to check on the lights. In the 3 months that I've had it, I've checked only once.

Most of the country does not use non-utility installed, external surge protectors, guessing due to inside locations of service equipment. They are usually connected. Some utility installed surge protectors come off the meter lugs. Rare otherwise.

Not making a joke, but I wonder how anything survives outside in the summer heat I see in AZ.

I have only seen external main service panels and surge devices in AZ TX and Fla. Coming from snowy states, I was shocked the first time I saw a 200 Amp main breaker service panel on the outside of a friend's garage in Fla. That said, the Siemens First Surge devices are IP 67 rated and are often installed on exterior walls in Fla.

The attached pdf from Siemens has tons of info.