LUCID Included Charger

[HariK]

The inverter is part of the car's Wunderbox functionality.

So I guess all it needs is a disconnect. In evse mode it 100A breaker is built in because of hard wiring and in inverter mode, it has the power company input disconnected and the 100A internal breaker is between the inverter and the sub panel? If so what is the expected price and who will provide the installation and service?

 

[momoskier]

What do you mean by the reloading step? That might have been the issue I had. if you power cycle, it stays flashing white and never goes solid white?

So for me - after you power cycle it does turn solid white after flashing, then you connect to the charger’s network using your computer and login to it- you then enter your home wi-fi network’s name and password and save - it should “reload” and within minutes connect to your home wi-fi. Mine gets stuck at the “reloading” phase and cannot connect to the wi-fi

 

[Negan1000]

Yes. If your home wifi subnet is 192.168.1.xxx, a firmware bug in Lucid's home charger prevents it from communicating. In that case you'll need to change your home wifi subnet to 192.168.2.xxx. Lucid's OEM is working on a firmware update to fix.

If you change home subnet to 192.168.2.xxx, do you have to do something to make your other devices connect to the new subnet? If home subnet is NOT 192.168.1.xxx, the home charger will connect to Wi-Fi?

 

[DeaneG]

If you change home subnet to 192.168.2.xxx, do you have to do something to make your other devices connect to the new subnet? If home subnet is NOT 192.168.1.xxx, the home charger will connect to Wi-Fi?

In general, after changing your home subnet (at your router) and restarting the router, you'll need to power cycle all your connected wifi devices, including wifi doorbell, etc. If you can see that your home subnet isn't currently 192.168.1.xxx, then please ignore my advice to change to 192.168.2.xxx. But if it is 192.168.1.xxx, then that is at least part of the problem if not the whole problem.

One other thing - when trying to connect to Lucid's charging station during setup, make sure your phone/laptop/pc is using the correct wifi network. You should be able to connect to the unit's own "serial number SSID" wifi signal for fifteen minutes after power on. In my case, when Lucid's unit reboots, my phone automatically reverts to my normal home wifi and I have to go back and manually reconnect my phone to the charging station's SSID if I want to check settings through the unit's own wifi. That is, if you get stuck with a "reloading" message, make sure your phone is using the wifi networks and charger IP address that you need at that point in time.

 

[Sandvinsd]

My internet is 192.168.50.xxx. Wondering if that was part of the issue with the first unit. The second unit was a “retail” one which has the short cord and will only charge a Lucid. They are sending me a third unit which should arrive tomorrow. This whole Lucid home charger has really been a clusterf***.

 

[DeaneG]

My internet is 192.168.50.xxx. Wondering if that was part of the issue with the first unit.

I believe that my charger's issue was because my home WiFi subnet of 192.168.1.xxx conflicted with something in the charger which was hard-coded to communicate on 192.168.1.10, and anything other than a subnet of 192.168.1.xxx would have been fine.

 

[noobzilla]

That's a bummer there's no scheduled charging on the Lucid charger.

I'm thinking if I would need the 80mi per hour charging but that's probably overkill.

Thinking long-term too if I would need bidirectional but unlikely that our utility will allow it. I'll just ask to install 100amp circuit and two outlets

 

[DeaneG]

That's a bummer there's no scheduled charging on the Lucid charger.

I'm thinking if I would need the 80mi per hour charging but that's probably overkill.

Thinking long-term too if I would need bidirectional but unlikely that our utility will allow it. I'll just ask to install 100amp circuit and two outlets

If you did this, you'd also need a subpanel near the destination to split the 100 amp circuit into two circuits for the outlets, each circuit with a 50-amp breaker.

 

[noobzilla]

If you did this, you'd also need a subpanel near the destination to split the 100 amp circuit into two circuits for the outlets, each circuit with a 50-amp breaker.

Oh! Then if each circuit is 50amp then I can't max out the 80amp Lucid charger? They would have to reconfigure the circuit?

That's a bummer then I was thinking I just one 100amp with 2 plugs then I can do either 1) two 40 amp chargers or 2) one 80 amp charger or 3) one 40amp and one 80amp then I can just change settings on the charger if I need to use both at the same time, but can max out 80amp if using just one at a given time.

 

[DeaneG]

Oh! Then if each circuit is 50amp then I can't max out the 80amp Lucid charger? They would have to reconfigure the circuit?

That's a bummer then I was thinking I just one 100amp with 2 plugs then I can do either 1) two 40 amp chargers or 2) one 80 amp charger or 3) one 40amp and one 80amp then I can just change settings on the charger if I need to use both at the same time, but can max out 80amp if using just one at a given time.

The maximum current for any residential outlet type is 50 amps. Code only allows charging at 80% of that, or 40 amps. There are two-headed charging stations available but I'd just run two separate circuits and place two charging stations where they will be the most convenient for each car.

 

[noobzilla]

The maximum current for any residential outlet type is 50 amps. Code only allows charging at 80% of that, or 40 amps. There are two-headed charging stations available but I'd just run two separate circuits and place two charging stations where they will be the most convenient for each car.

Thanks for info!

 

[borski]

Oh! Then if each circuit is 50amp then I can't max out the 80amp Lucid charger? They would have to reconfigure the circuit?

That's a bummer then I was thinking I just one 100amp with 2 plugs then I can do either 1) two 40 amp chargers or 2) one 80 amp charger or 3) one 40amp and one 80amp then I can just change settings on the charger if I need to use both at the same time, but can max out 80amp if using just one at a given time.

You actually can do this; you take your existing two 50A lines out, and instead set up one 100A line. Then get a Grizzle or similar that is dual headed, and you can utilize the full 80A on a single car or split it across two.

It’s not the cheapest, and setting up two stations on two 50A lines is easier, but it is possible.

Wallbox even has a “power boost” option which is a set of CTs and a meter that measures output at the panel and automatically adjusts the current going through the Wallbox to not overload the panel. I have this set up; I have the Lucid LCHCS for 80A charging, but I also have a Wallbox on a 60A line with the power boost. When the Lucid charger is not in use, the Wallbox can pull the full 48A, but when the Lucid is charging, the Wallbox automatically downgrades to pulling 20-24A until the Lucid is done.

Overkill? Absolutely lol. But I already had a Wallbox and the spare line (was a 14-50 previously) so I figured why not just add the power boost for like $100.

 

[noobzilla]

New dilemma for me!

It turns out that the utility rebates here only work for 40amp circuit ($500) and 32amp charger ($500). Can the the included Lucid charger work on a 40amp circuit? Pre rebate $900 for new wiring and $700 for a 32amp Juicebox with wifi. After rebates it will cost me about $600.

On the other hand, Lucid Connected Home Charger is overkill! Also the idea of bi-directional is nice but after I spoke to a few electricians it will cost me $2-3k+ for upgrades for switch and whatnot for bidirectional. I dont think my utility currently allows for that either. After the 30% federal credit, it would cost me about $2000 to have a LCHC.

Leaning towards the Juicebox. I think it's 7.7kw/h so would take 12 hrs to fully charge a car? What charge rate are people getting with their 32amp charger?

 

[hydbob]

New dilemma for me!

It turns out that the utility rebates here only work for 40amp circuit ($500) and 32amp charger ($500). Can the the included Lucid charger work on a 40amp circuit? Pre rebate $900 for new wiring and $700 for a 32amp Juicebox with wifi. After rebates it will cost me about $600.

On the other hand, Lucid Connected Home Charger is overkill! Also the idea of bi-directional is nice but after I spoke to a few electricians it will cost me $2-3k+ for upgrades for switch and whatnot for bidirectional. I dont think my utility currently allows for that either. After the 30% federal credit, it would cost me about $2000 to have a LCHC.

Leaning towards the Juicebox. I think it's 7.7kw/h so would take 12 hrs to fully charge a car? What charge rate are people getting with their 32amp charger?

The included charger will work fine. I recharge roughly 35% of my battery in 9 hours on my 30amp circuit.