Lucid Connected Home Charging Station

[DeaneG]

Would be useful if the car would display voltage, amperage, and calculated power while charging. Several other EVs already do this.

 

[borski]

Would be useful if the car would display voltage, amperage, and calculated power while charging. Several other EVs already do this.

True, and a good feature request! Paging @Firstto520 and @mcr16 to hopefully note it.

 

[mmassey33]

Finally got a chance to test mine properly. I am running 100a and seeing 1mile per min/17kw charge rates. View attachment 6136

I too am only showing about 13-14kw with a 1mi/min rate and I’m running a 80amp breaker should I run a 100amp? This equates to about 54mi/hr I thought we should be able to get up to 80mi/hr what’s is the limiting factor if anyone knows?

Thank you

 

[DeaneG]

I too am only showing about 13-14kw with a 1mi/min rate and I’m running a 80amp breaker should I run a 100amp? This equates to about 54mi/hr I thought we should be able to get up to 80mi/hr what’s is the limiting factor if anyone knows?

Thank you

The limiting factor is the wire gauge connecting your EVSE to your circuit breaker panel, and the circuit breaker must match the wire gauge, and the EVSE (charging adapter) must be programmed to match that circuit breaker size. You can't increase the rating of the breaker without having the appropriate wire size feeding the charger. Also your circuit breaker panel and house's electrical service have to have enough capacity to handle the load. Every EV also has it's own limit, the Lucid Air's is 19kW or about 80 amps at 240V - hence the suggestion for a 100 amp breaker with Lucid's charger. Homes with less-capable service feeds may need to use a smaller circuit breaker and can then use a less-expensive, slightly more convenient EVSE like Chargepoint's.

 

[mmassey33]

The limiting factor is the wire gauge connecting your EVSE to your circuit breaker panel, and the circuit breaker must match the wire gauge, and the EVSE (charging adapter) must be programmed to match that circuit breaker size. You can't increase the rating of the breaker without having the appropriate wire size feeding the charger. Also your circuit breaker panel and house's electrical service have to have enough capacity to handle the load. Every EV also has it's own limit, the Lucid Air's is 19kW or about 80 amps at 240V - hence the suggestion for a 100 amp breaker with Lucid's charger. Homes with less-capable service feeds may need to use a smaller circuit breaker and can then use a less-expensive, slightly more convenient EVSE like Chargepoint's.

My electrician said the wire is sufficient and it’s a 100amp wire, also the charger is directly in the burger side if the panel. And I still have 4-5 slots left open. The house was built in 2017 I’m hoping it’s up to date. If all things are correct would switching to the 100amp breaker increase the charger to 19kW possibly?

 

[Alex]

My electrician said the wire is sufficient and it’s a 100amp wire, also the charger is directly in the burger side if the panel. And I still have 4-5 slots left open. The house was built in 2017 I’m hoping it’s up to date. If all things are correct would switching to the 100amp breaker increase the charger to 19kW possibly?

You will also need to change the dip switch settings in the charging station to indicate the charging current (see pages 19-20) of Lucid Connected Home charging Station Guide:

 

[dawktah LucidGT]

Does anyone know if you can have a back-up system back up another? In other words use Lucid Air as primary but have something else if car isn't at home?

 

[MHDave]

Yes, just a matter of $$. Talk to a competent electrician, but you might get a better idea if you talk to someone with commercial/industrial experience.

 

[Dr Chill]

I assume this Lucid connected home charging system must be hard-wired. Am I correct?

 

[DBordello]

I assume this Lucid connected home charging system must be hard-wired. Am I correct?

Yes

 

[borski]

Yes

Anything over 50A (40A continuous charging) is required to be hardwired by code.

 

[Negan1000]

Anything over 50A (40A continuous charging) is required to be hardwired by code.

Does the Lucid Home Charger have a built-in GFIC?

 

[DeaneG]

Does the Lucid Home Charger have a built-in GFIC?

All EV chargers have built-in GFCI. That's why it's important to install them on a circuit which doesn't have GFCI. GFCIs installed in series trend to nuisance trip.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

I'm trying to find the thread where we are posting about installing our Lucid home charging station or LSDMDSTP (Betty).
Things are a bit scattered and I'm not sure what search terms to use, so I'm just going ahead here. Please help me if it's the wrong place.

First a question: how does one get the vanity cover off the Lucid Home Charging Station? I removed the two Torx 20h screws and slid the cover up about 1 cm but now it's stuck. I've pounded on it and tried to pry it off with a screwdriver but I'm at so much force now I'm certain the plastic will snap. What am I missing here ??? I can't slide (with huge force) the cover up any further, and it won't pull off as illustrated in the manual. Does this require a strong man and a steel prybar, or is there some catch I need to release? Where is a safe place to hammer a screw driver into the gap? Is a 5 lb hand sledge enough force or do I need the 15 lb long handle sledge?

 

[hydbob]

I'm trying to find the thread where we are posting about installing our Lucid home charging station or LSDMDSTP (Betty).
Things are a bit scattered and I'm not sure what search terms to use, so I'm just going ahead here. Please help me if it's the wrong place.

First a question: how does one get the vanity cover off the Lucid Home Charging Station? I removed the two Torx 20h screws and slid the cover up about 1 cm but now it's stuck. I've pounded on it and tried to pry it off with a screwdriver but I'm at so much force now I'm certain the plastic will snap. What am I missing here ??? I can't slide (with huge force) the cover up any further, and it won't pull off as illustrated in the manual. Does this require a strong man and a steel prybar, or is there some catch I need to release? Where is a safe place to hammer a screw driver into the gap? Is a 5 lb hand sledge enough force or do I need the 15 lb long handle sledge?
View attachment 6464

Seriously, pull harder. Mine was the same and it just requires you to yank on it.

 

[DBordello]

I'll confirm, pull harder. The cover is just cosmetic, you won't damage anything.

I had to pry mine off with a screwdriver.

 

[DeaneG]

Spread the cover's sides out sightly by pressing down along the cover's centerline while pulling up along it's edges. Like you are trying to flatten it.

 

[DeaneG]

There are little plastic catches arranged along the long edges. You want to move these outward by flattering the cover slightly as I described.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

House is 1987 construction with 200 amp service panel. Has sub panel next to main.

Electrician reviewed state of existing circuits and recommended this:

Install upgraded surge protection in main panel
Remove and replace 5 outlets with GFIC
Upgrade grounding system = 2 grounding rods, and straps on H + C + NG pipe

for the charger:
Move two circuits from main panel to sub (for 100 amp breaker to garage)
Run 100 amp copper to garage ~ 30 meters
Install NEMA 14 - 50 outlet for charger
Permits and inspections.
$ 6500

Following Lucid's advice I planned for a plug until the Lucid wall charge point was ready. Then I ordered a Juice Box 40amp hardwire charger ? While electrician was here I said just install a panel in the garage and forget the plug. Wanted to be "future ready".


The day after he left the Juice Box arrived. I called about connecting and was told " 6- weeks". That's 6-weeks to install 50 amp breaker in the box and connect the three wires to the terminal block and get the inspections. So I thought I'd mount the Juice Box, and feed the Juice Box (supplied) conduit behind the wall and into the box. Juice box included the conduit and the grommet. I got a 50amp breaker...did a little googling, and


Last week Betty arrived. Of course I'm going to have the electrician wire this and get the inspections, but he doesn't do "carpentry" so I'm going to remove the Juice Box and mount Betty...didn't get a conduit (Betty will take lower amp feed / has internal switches to adjust for lower amps) and recommends 4 hole mount so I need to put something behind the drywall ... 2x4 not enough...nothing is easy. Trying to decided if I should just remove the box now and feed 100 amp line directly into Betty...top? back ? bottom ?

But now I can't get the vanity cover off the Lucid wall wart (Betty)... how are you guys getting the cover off ?

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Spread the cover's sides out sightly by pressing down along the cover's centerline while pulling up along it's edges. Like you are trying to flatten it.

This works, but takes some force. Thanks!