Dash cam

Thanks for posting this. I have two dual-channel Viofo A329 that I ordered a month ago and have not got around to installing in two of our vehicles. I will likely tackle the Lucid first. Just to clarify-the camera is connected to the extended battery pack by the USB-C and the battery pack to the trunk 12V, correct? I was going to try to hardwire myself but may just go this route for simplicity (and safety!). Which coupler for USB-C did you get and how long was it (I am not familiar with those)? I purchased my Viofo cameras with the hardwire kit so I imagine I would need no additional kits/wiring with the extended battery packs? Thanks in advance.
The wiring goes from the front cam to the battery pack in the trunk which then connects to the cigarette lighter using the supplied VIOFO cable.
I did not use the hardwire kit; this way it was easy to avoid messing with an EV fusebox.

The battery pack was back-ordered from Blackboxmycar so I installed the original VIOFO usb-c cable which was too short but long enough to plug into the rear usb-c plug at the back of the center console.

FYI, this is not a good place given that Lucid installed the plug in the actual cover instead of inside the compartment and sticks out at a 90 degree angle.
The battery pack had to be ordered with the appropriate hardwire splice that works with VIOFO and that cable seemed rather long although I think it would have been too short to reach the cam as well.
So I just got a coupler from Amazon to connect the 2 cables underneath the passenger seat.
Don’t have the Amazon link handy but it was a pricier coupler (female/female) that was certain to provide power no matter how it’s plugged in.
Apparently that can be an issue with some cheap Chinese junk couplers.

That said, if you have a glass roof, the thickness of the VIOFO cable is still borderline. You will have to remove the center light strip from roof to route the cable. If you have the aluminum roof, it is super easy to route like in any other car via the A-pillar.

I wish I would have taken some picks during disassembly but it’s easy and quick. The only concern was not to break any clips.
The rear camera required the removal of the C-pillar cover on the passenger side; also easy to do but I realized afterwards that Lucid actually forgot to install one clip :( Now it’s not perfect tight until I can stop by the service location to get one.

Good luck!
 
To clarify my earlier post. There is a hardwire kit for the dash cam and a hardwire splice kit for the battery extender.
I wouldn’t use a dash cam hardwire cable as that needs to be connected to the Fusebox for ignition (switched) and permanent power. Easy on an ICE but I wouldn’t touch that for an EV…

The battery extender hardwire splice cable handles the connection to the camera and prevents it from falling asleep due to low voltage.
 
To clarify my earlier post. There is a hardwire kit for the dash cam and a hardwire splice kit for the battery extender.
I wouldn’t use a dash cam hardwire cable as that needs to be connected to the Fusebox for ignition (switched) and permanent power. Easy on an ICE but I wouldn’t touch that for an EV…

The battery extender hardwire splice cable handles the connection to the camera and prevents it from falling asleep due to low voltage.
Can you link the battery pack and hardwire splice?
 
Can you link the battery pack and hardwire splice?
That is how you use it. The battery pack has a default input and output, normally both are cigarette lighter connections.
What you do is to replace the output (female cigarette lighter) with a custom hardwire splice kit that connects directly to the dash cam.
In the case of the VIOFO it is a 5V USB-C connection. With other cams it is a 12V brand-specific plug.

But when you have a battery extender, you will never use a dash cam hardwire kit. Those are only used when there is no battery extender.

Not everyone wants to spend another $400 to get a dash cam that runs for a week without stressing the cars batteries but to me it makes the most sense as EV’s still rely on a good old 12V battery to get the car started.

Sorry for the long answer to a short question ;)
 
That is how you use it. The battery pack has a default input and output, normally both are cigarette lighter connections.
What you do is to replace the output (female cigarette lighter) with a custom hardwire splice kit that connects directly to the dash cam.
In the case of the VIOFO it is a 5V USB-C connection. With other cams it is a 12V brand-specific plug.

But when you have a battery extender, you will never use a dash cam hardwire kit. Those are only used when there is no battery extender.

Not everyone wants to spend another $400 to get a dash cam that runs for a week without stressing the cars batteries but to me it makes the most sense as EV’s still rely on a good old 12V battery to get the car started.

Sorry for the long answer to a short question ;)
Thank you for your posts that clarifies things. I mistakenly ordered battery packs without splicing kit so will need to change/update that. Was thinking I could use the hardwire kits I purchased with the Viofo cameras.
 
Thank you for your posts that clarifies things. I mistakenly ordered battery packs without splicing kit so will need to change/update that. Was thinking I could use the hardwire kits I purchased with the Viofo cameras.
That's common as the battery extender completely changes the wiring setup. I also realized that calling everything a hardwire kit was confusing, hence the clarification.

Here is a pic of how the battery pack wiring. Input is the only cigarette lighter socket in the Lucid; unique location but quite useful for this setup :)
The output is 12V which gets reduced to 5V in the splice cable for the VIOFO.
 

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