Charge to 100% for road trip?

You don’t need to. You can find that info in Settings>>>Vehicle>>>Tripmeter Info

Miles traveled / %SOC used x 88 kWh
(His Air is Touring, not DE.)

@MorganB This formula gives you estimated total range based on your driving style/parameters for your current drive as opposed of 425 miles EPA.
Oh oops my bad!
 
Oh oops my bad!
Totally understandable. The Touring model is a new flavor ha ha. Thanks again for all the tips! I was next to a Kia EV6 at Electrify America and he was stopping every 100 miles due to poor range in the cold. He had a grumpy family in the car. Fortunately I got to do my first long distance drive solo away from judging eyes and I was still getting a decent amount of range all things considered.
 
You don’t need to. You can find that info in Settings>>>Vehicle>>>Tripmeter Info

Miles traveled / %SOC used x 88 kWh
(His Air is Touring, not DE.)

@MorganB This formula gives you estimated total range based on your driving style/parameters for your current drive as opposed of 425 miles EPA.
I asked this in another thread, but didn't get a response..
So wouldn't you want to look at your lifetime efficiency and multiply against that to get range remaining based on driving habit?

Can you give an example and do the full steps here to clarify?
If I have 60% SOC, and my lifetime is 3.2 mi/kw
Wouldn't I take 60% of 118 to calculate 70 kw left in the battery, and then do 70 * 3.2 mi/kw to estimate total range remaining?

Thanks!
 
I asked this in another thread, but didn't get a response..
I used to keep up with all threads, forum is too big now, not anymore for me to keep up reading.
So wouldn't you want to look at your lifetime efficiency and multiply against that to get range remaining based on driving habit?
Yes, you can do that as generalization. But using the ongoing current drive data is more accurate bc of latest climate, cabin electronic usage, altitude, driving mood and traffic condition.
Can you give an example and do the full steps here to clarify?
If I have 60% SOC, and my lifetime is 3.2 mi/kw
Wouldn't I take 60% of 118 to calculate 70 kw left in the battery, and then do 70 * 3.2 mi/kw to estimate total range remaining?

Thanks!
If you have AGT, it’s 112kW. AGTP is 118kW.

You can use that way to calculate too.
Lifetime Efficiency (mile/kWh) x battery left (%ofSOC x 112kW) = miles remained

In your case, 3.2 miles/kWh x (60% x 112 kWh) = 215 miles
 
I asked this in another thread, but didn't get a response..
So wouldn't you want to look at your lifetime efficiency and multiply against that to get range remaining based on driving habit?

Can you give an example and do the full steps here to clarify?
If I have 60% SOC, and my lifetime is 3.2 mi/kw
Wouldn't I take 60% of 118 to calculate 70 kw left in the battery, and then do 70 * 3.2 mi/kw to estimate total range remaining?

Thanks!
Since you have a GT, you should use 112 kWhr battery instead of the DE battery at 118 kWhr. Your milage remaining would be 215 miles. Your calculation is correct, but it is easier to just multiply your lifetime average by the SOC. (3.2 * 60 = 192). The simpler math give you some buffer since the battery is 112 kWhr instead of 100.
 
Since you have a GT, you should use 112 kWhr battery instead of the DE battery at 118 kWhr. Your milage remaining would be 215 miles. Your calculation is correct, but it is easier to just multiply your lifetime average by the SOC. (3.2 * 60 = 192). The simpler math give you some buffer since the battery is 112 kWhr instead of 100.
Ahh buffer, I understand

Thank you both!

And I actually didn't know the AGT had a smaller battery
 
Ahh buffer, I understand

Thank you both!

And I actually didn't know the AGT had a smaller battery
Same number of cells, but slightly different battery chemistry gives the DE a slight edge.
 
Same number of cells, but slightly different battery chemistry gives the DE a slight edge.
Was it a cost reason to avoid different battery chemistry for all other vehicles than the dream?

I wonder if battery degradation will be different for AGT versus dream for that reason?
 
Was it a cost reason to avoid different battery chemistry for all other vehicles than the dream?

I wonder if battery degradation will be different for AGT versus dream for that reason?
It is the reason the DE gets 1111hp and the GT-P gets 1080hp.

Just different trims, not cost. Also, I don’t believe battery degradation is affected in any significant way.
 
Was it a cost reason to avoid different battery chemistry for all other vehicles than the dream?

I wonder if battery degradation will be different for AGT versus dream for that reason?

Lucid has said very little about the difference in the Samsung batteries in the 118-kWh pack and the LG Chem batteries in the 112-kWh pack. The only clues lie in the press releases at the times the two battery sourcing deals were announced.

In the December 2016 announcement about the sourcing deal with Samsung, Lucid said:

"Samsung SDI combined their in-house chemistry expertise with massive real-world datasets and state-of-the-art battery models provided by Lucid to develop a cell that is both energy dense and resistant to damage associated with fast-charging . . . The breakthrough battery life demonstrated by the new cell from Samsung SDI will be of tangible benefit to our customers, particularly companies with ride-sharing services operating around the clock."

The February 2020 announcement about the deal to source batteries from LG Chem indicated that the priority was on securing a reliable source for the required production volumes. Lucid added:

"Lucid selects the best battery cell for each version of the Lucid Air based on data collected during comprehensive and proprietary performance tests, with the cells from LG Chem selected because they provide the ideal level of efficiency for standard versions of the Lucid Air. In conjunction with its proprietary battery architecture and flexible manufacturing technique, Lucid will optimize the LG Chem cells to meet or exceed all target goals for range, energy density, recharge/discharge rates, and more. In this way, Lucid will leverage the specific cell chemistry of LG Chem's batteries to develop the most compact, yet energy dense, battery pack form possible."

The announcement about the LG Chem batteries lacks the specific references of the Samsung announcement to resistance to fast-charging damage or breakthrough battery life. Also, Lucid mentioned that the Samsung batteries used a propriety chemistry specifically developed using battery models provided by Lucid. By contrast, the LG Chem announcement spoke of LG Chem's proprietary battery architecture instead of chemistry and of selecting the battery from existing product lines that best matched Lucid's requirements.

However, note that these announcements came over three years apart, and a lot changed about battery chemistries across the industry in that timespan. It could be that the proprietary, cutting edge chemistry of the 2016 Samsung batteries had found equivalents across the industry three years later.
 
I just noticed I made a mistake in the above post due to misreading the announcement about LG Chem. The proprietary battery architecture referred to was Lucid's pack architecture, not LG Chem's cell architecture.
 
I asked this in another thread, but didn't get a response..
So wouldn't you want to look at your lifetime efficiency and multiply against that to get range remaining based on driving habit?

Can you give an example and do the full steps here to clarify?
If I have 60% SOC, and my lifetime is 3.2 mi/kw
Wouldn't I take 60% of 118 to calculate 70 kw left in the battery, and then do 70 * 3.2 mi/kw to estimate total range remaining?

Thanks!
That is the mental math that I will use, except with the Touring's smaller battery capacity I'll use 88 vs 112. Also will probably use recent trip miles/kWhr vs my lifetime as it would more accurately reflect recent environmental and performance conditions effecting my specific range.
 
Yeah I agree using recent trip statistics is more accurate, but I received my Lucid this winter and have been doing all my driving in winter, and I've been consistently at around 3.0 so that's why I was using that

The Dream owners have had their Lucid's for so long that the lifetime is averaging a full year's worth of driving against their current winter statistics, so it makes sense that if you have so many miles in different seasons, that the average will probably be higher

But lately driving this month, I've still been around 3.0
Its a good estimate for me
 
The Dream owners have had their Lucid's for so long that the lifetime is averaging a full year's worth of driving against their current winter statistics, so it makes sense that if you have so many miles in different seasons, that the average will probably be higher

But lately driving this month, I've still been around 3.0
Its a good estimate for me

We've had our Dream Edition P almost exactly a year (just over 14,000 miles on the odometer). The interesting thing is that our efficiency stays in the 2.8-3.1 m'kWh range no matter where we are driving, whether on local roads in mixed traffic conditions or at sustained 80+ mph on interstates. I should note that, due to where we live, the first 10 or so miles of virtually any local run is on a 6-lane divided road where we often drive 60-65 mph between the occasional traffic lights.

The bad news is that we never get close to the EPA-rated 3.9 m/kWh, no matter where or how we are driving. The good news is that the efficiency doesn't plummet as much with speed as did/do our Teslas.

That's okay with me, as we never have to worry about range in local driving -- and I'd much rather have less range loss on a long highway trip where range matters. The bottom line is that our Lucid almost always gives us about 75-78% of EPA range, while our Tesla gives us closer to 70% of its rated range in highway travel. Given that the Model S Plaid's EPA range is 103 miles less than the Lucid's, it means our Lucid has a very meaningful range advantage over the Tesla when both cars are driven similarly on long trips.
 
When I charge my car I reset Trip A to zero so the info on mi/kWh since the last charge should match trip A info, but it never does. Mi/kWh since the last charge is always much lower than mi/kWh on Trip A even though the miles driven are identical and obviously under identical conditions. Does anybody have this issue or an explanation?
 
When I charge my car I reset Trip A to zero so the info on mi/kWh since the last charge should match trip A info, but it never does. Mi/kWh since the last charge is always much lower than mi/kWh on Trip A even though the miles driven are identical and obviously under identical conditions. Does anybody have this issue or an explanation?
The efficiency since last charge includes losses that are not included in the trip efficiency. The phantom drain from parking overnight or the losses from waking the car up seem to be included in the efficiency since last charge but not in the trip efficiency. I am not sure why Lucid chose to calculate it this way.
 
The efficiency since last charge includes losses that are not included in the trip efficiency. The phantom drain from parking overnight or the losses from waking the car up seem to be included in the efficiency since last charge but not in the trip efficiency. I am not sure why Lucid chose to calculate it this way.
If you are correct, then the Mi/kWh since the last charge is really what we should look at to figure out our distance availability since most long trips include stopping and possibly staying overnight along the way. If so, that makes a significant difference. I am seeing as much as .8 Mi/kWh difference.
 
If you are correct, then the Mi/kWh since the last charge is really what we should look at to figure out our distance availability since most long trips include stopping and possibly staying overnight along the way. If so, that makes a significant difference. I am seeing as much as .8 Mi/kWh difference.
For long trips the phantom losses are a much smaller portion of the overall energy used by the car. I would use the trip numbers for long trip planning.
 
If you are correct, then the Mi/kWh since the last charge is really what we should look at to figure out our distance availability since most long trips include stopping and possibly staying overnight along the way. If so, that makes a significant difference. I am seeing as much as .8 Mi/kWh difference.
That meter includes battery thermal management when car is idle, whether putting more heat into battery or fan cooling battery or onboard computer download and install new OTA update are all part of “Since Last Charged”
 
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