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Another simple subwoofer install with pics

dcm said:
How about a dab of solder for those wires? I'd be afraid that the alligator clips would vibrate off.
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I have some basic alligator clips on mine and they haven't moved one bit in 2 months + of having them on. I will think about solder as well though if I get one indication of a loss of signal back there
 
LucidPea said:
I have some basic alligator clips on mine and they haven't moved one bit in 2 months + of having them on. I will think about solder as well though if I get one indication of a loss of signal back there
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Do you drive like Ms. Daisy? Or do you use the car as designed? Albeit with a better sub?
 
I never have had an issue with the clips. I drive "spiritedly" and drift.
 
I am planning on doing a similar install with Kicker 51HS10, how did you all ground the woofer?
 
I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-12T. It fit perfectly in the trunk lower opening. Will connecting it to the 12V accessory location work? Is the 12V wires big enough guage for 300 watts and a proper ground?
 

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RJGII said:
I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-12T. It fit perfectly in the trunk lower opening. Will connecting it to the 12V accessory location work? Is the 12V wires big enough guage for 300 watts and a proper ground?
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Just fyi for those who might not be familiar, the Air’s 12v batteries are about the size of a garden tractor battery. Think small like a tissue box not what you may have been expecting from gas cars.
 
RJGII said:
I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-12T. It fit perfectly in the trunk lower opening. Will connecting it to the 12V accessory location work? Is the 12V wires big enough guage for 300 watts and a proper ground?
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I would run 8 gauge to the battery which is just to the right of that picture
 
How do I remove the black sleeve circled in the attached picture? Also, I have read that if the 12V battery gets disconnected, it could mess up the car. How do you ensure that the connections going to the positive terminal do not get loose while you wire in the power connection for the powered sub?
 

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RJGII said:
How do I remove the black sleeve circled in the attached picture? Also, I have read that if the 12V battery gets disconnected, it could mess up the car. How do you ensure that the connections going to the positive terminal do not get loose while you wire in the power connection for the powered sub?
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Yes if you lose 12v power the car is dead
I’m unsure if simply reconnecting addresses this but based on the 12v “jumper “ point I think resuppling 12v would be fine
Not sure about any reboot time once power is restored
 
RJGII said:
How do I remove the black sleeve circled in the attached picture? Also, I have read that if the 12V battery gets disconnected, it could mess up the car. How do you ensure that the connections going to the positive terminal do not get loose while you wire in the power connection for the powered sub?
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Not sure about the part that you circled, but I popped up the red cover on the terminal, removed the nut, installed my own cable with a ring connector on the post and screwed on the nut again. Don't think I ever had to remove the cable that is on the post. Lastly, put the red cover back on.

For what its worth, I pulled the sub that I installed out after a missing software package was installed that addressed the lacking bass in a SSP equipped vehicle. I may reinstall it at a later date, but need to figure out how to mount this under the seat powered sub to the back of the rear seat in the trunk. I tried 3M double sided tape made for automotive and velcro. The heat in the trunk would soften the adhesive and the sub would fall off the velcro.
 
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