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Another simple subwoofer install with pics

dcm said:
How about a dab of solder for those wires? I'd be afraid that the alligator clips would vibrate off.
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I have some basic alligator clips on mine and they haven't moved one bit in 2 months + of having them on. I will think about solder as well though if I get one indication of a loss of signal back there
 
LucidPea said:
I have some basic alligator clips on mine and they haven't moved one bit in 2 months + of having them on. I will think about solder as well though if I get one indication of a loss of signal back there
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Do you drive like Ms. Daisy? Or do you use the car as designed? Albeit with a better sub?
 
I never have had an issue with the clips. I drive "spiritedly" and drift.
 
I am planning on doing a similar install with Kicker 51HS10, how did you all ground the woofer?
 
I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-12T. It fit perfectly in the trunk lower opening. Will connecting it to the 12V accessory location work? Is the 12V wires big enough guage for 300 watts and a proper ground?
 

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RJGII said:
I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-12T. It fit perfectly in the trunk lower opening. Will connecting it to the 12V accessory location work? Is the 12V wires big enough guage for 300 watts and a proper ground?
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Just fyi for those who might not be familiar, the Air’s 12v batteries are about the size of a garden tractor battery. Think small like a tissue box not what you may have been expecting from gas cars.
 
RJGII said:
I have a Rockford Fosgate P300-12T. It fit perfectly in the trunk lower opening. Will connecting it to the 12V accessory location work? Is the 12V wires big enough guage for 300 watts and a proper ground?
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I would run 8 gauge to the battery which is just to the right of that picture
 
How do I remove the black sleeve circled in the attached picture? Also, I have read that if the 12V battery gets disconnected, it could mess up the car. How do you ensure that the connections going to the positive terminal do not get loose while you wire in the power connection for the powered sub?
 

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RJGII said:
How do I remove the black sleeve circled in the attached picture? Also, I have read that if the 12V battery gets disconnected, it could mess up the car. How do you ensure that the connections going to the positive terminal do not get loose while you wire in the power connection for the powered sub?
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Yes if you lose 12v power the car is dead
I’m unsure if simply reconnecting addresses this but based on the 12v “jumper “ point I think resuppling 12v would be fine
Not sure about any reboot time once power is restored
 
RJGII said:
How do I remove the black sleeve circled in the attached picture? Also, I have read that if the 12V battery gets disconnected, it could mess up the car. How do you ensure that the connections going to the positive terminal do not get loose while you wire in the power connection for the powered sub?
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Not sure about the part that you circled, but I popped up the red cover on the terminal, removed the nut, installed my own cable with a ring connector on the post and screwed on the nut again. Don't think I ever had to remove the cable that is on the post. Lastly, put the red cover back on.

For what its worth, I pulled the sub that I installed out after a missing software package was installed that addressed the lacking bass in a SSP equipped vehicle. I may reinstall it at a later date, but need to figure out how to mount this under the seat powered sub to the back of the rear seat in the trunk. I tried 3M double sided tape made for automotive and velcro. The heat in the trunk would soften the adhesive and the sub would fall off the velcro.
 
Aka-none said:
Yes if you lose 12v power the car is dead
I’m unsure if simply reconnecting addresses this but based on the 12v “jumper “ point I think resuppling 12v would be fine
Not sure about any reboot time once power is restored
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Thanks. I read that if the 12v gets disconnected it could be bad for the car. Seems like the red clip below is the place to connect power.
 
Beatstanfurd said:
Not sure about the part that you circled, but I popped up the red cover on the terminal, removed the nut, installed my own cable with a ring connector on the post and screwed on the nut again. Don't think I ever had to remove the cable that is on the post. Lastly, put the red cover back on.

For what its worth, I pulled the sub that I installed out after a missing software package was installed that addressed the lacking bass in a SSP equipped vehicle. I may reinstall it at a later date, but need to figure out how to mount this under the seat powered sub to the back of the rear seat in the trunk. I tried 3M double sided tape made for automotive and velcro. The heat in the trunk would soften the adhesive and the sub would fall off the velcro.
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Thanks. Will try that and respond. I am putting in a Forgate P300-12T powerd sub. It fit almost perfect in the lower deck of the trunk, with the lid closing with no issues. Had it in my last car and it made a huge difference. Once done, I will send pics.
 

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RJGII said:
Thanks. Will try that and respond. I am putting in a Forgate P300-12T powerd sub. It fit almost perfect in the lower deck of the trunk, with the lid closing with no issues. Had it in my last car and it made a huge difference. Once done, I will send pics.
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Please document the whole process :) I forgot to do it myself, but it could be a benefit for future sub installations.
 
Beatstanfurd said:
Please document the whole process :) I forgot to do it myself, but it could be a benefit for future sub installations.
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For sure. Just needed help and want to help other people too.

I did talk to Lucid about adding a powered sub and if it voided the warranty. They said as long as done right and no shorts happen, that there is no problem tapping into the 12V battery and using the point near the trunk latch for a ground. They know of many other owners who have successfully done the same thing without voiding their warranties.

I might replace the stock sub with a 89+db sensitivity mid base for better sound. Will post what I use.
 
McGriddle said:
Hi all,

Based on smistry007's previous thread (https://lucidowners.com/threads/subwoofer-bass-solution.4366/) I thought I'd go ahead and add a small subwoofer that I had lying around from a previous car. My goal here was to supplement the low end without taking up too much of the trunk space. I used a Kicker HS8 Hideaway 8" powered sub which has a built-in 150W amp.

Like smistry007, I also tapped into the power from the accessory outlet in the trunk. For access, you simply lift up on the lining as there are no snap connectors. Here are some pics of the connections. Note that the connector to the outlet is pretty short to work with.

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Onto the rear parcel shelf woofer connection. The center woofer is accessed via removal of the lining's 4 push clips. I'd suggest trim removal tools to prevent snapping anything.

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Once the 4 connectors are removed, you can pull down the lining to reveal the speakers. There is a small connector to the trunk interior light to disconnect.

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The central woofer can be seen below. Note that there isn't much room to tap the wires with a wiretap connector, so I used alligator clips as well.

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With everything connected, putting everything back in place was easy. Overall, (again thanks to smistry007's prior post), this was an easy job. It took me maybe just over an hour being careful. Here is the modest trunk space ten up by the sub. I've laid it flat for now but could mount it sideways as well.

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Overall, I'm quite happy with the extra bass to supplement the overall sound. A small sub like this isn't ever going to be aggressively boomy for those who want to rattle the house, but I've found it's a nice compromise for saving trunk space as well.
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How can you tell which connection is the positive and which one is the negative, where you used the alligator clips connected to the stock sub?
 
RJGII said:
How can you tell which connection is the positive and which one is the negative, where you used the alligator clips connected to the stock sub?
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If I recall correctly, the negative is black whereas the positive is green. That should do it for you!
 
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