60 amp circuit on NEMA 14-50

We have a vacation rental in Payson, and our laundry room is off of the garage, so the idea was that I would use that outlet to charge the car when up there. When I took it up the first time, I discovered that my dryer was on a 3-prong outlet (10-30P I think). So I looked for an adapter and found this:


When I took the car back up, it seemed to work like a charm, but when checking it 10 minutes later, it appeared to flip the 30 amp breaker. Does anyone know if that would have been a fluke thing or the adapter is simply not down converting the amps to no more than 30 (if that's even the right question to ask). I was checking it pretty constantly initially to make sure I wasn't burning the house down, so I'm a bit nervous to try again. If it's not workable, I'll probably just add a 14-50 outlet, but I thought I'd ask this esteemed group.
 
We have a vacation rental in Payson, and our laundry room is off of the garage, so the idea was that I would use that outlet to charge the car when up there. When I took it up the first time, I discovered that my dryer was on a 3-prong outlet (10-30P I think). So I looked for an adapter and found this:


When I took the car back up, it seemed to work like a charm, but when checking it 10 minutes later, it appeared to flip the 30 amp breaker. Does anyone know if that would have been a fluke thing or the adapter is simply not down converting the amps to no more than 30 (if that's even the right question to ask). I was checking it pretty constantly initially to make sure I wasn't burning the house down, so I'm a bit nervous to try again. If it's not workable, I'll probably just add a 14-50 outlet, but I thought I'd ask this esteemed group.
That adapter won't be able to tell your mobile charger that it should draw 24 amps max (80% of 30). My Air isn't here yet- can you adjust maximum charging current draw in a menu setting in the car?
 
Constantly plugging and unplugging can cause problems. If you don't need to unplug it regularly, then it should work. Personally, I would get a unit, plug it in, leave it plugged in, and put the one that came with the car in the car as an emergency unit.

Yes. When Teslas USED to be delivered with mobile charging cords (gee, thanks for cheaping out, Billionaire Elon), I sensed that they were not really designed for everyday, in-home garage use. Construction and durability-wise they were really designed for road trips, or charging away from home.
 
Yes. When Teslas USED to be delivered with mobile charging cords (gee, thanks for cheaping out, Billionaire Elon), I sensed that they were not really designed for everyday, in-home garage use. Construction and durability-wise they were really designed for road trips, or charging away from home.
Unless your home has an industrial-grade 14-50 outlet (about $100 for the receptacle alone, not the $10 thing at Home Depot), it isn't designed for the job either.
 
That adapter won't be able to tell your mobile charger that it should draw 24 amps max (80% of 30). My Air isn't here yet- can you adjust maximum charging current draw in a menu setting in the car?
I don't believe there is that setting. Do Tesla's have it?
 
I don't believe there is that setting. Do Tesla's have it?
Not Tesla to my recollection, but many other EVs do. Tesla uses various specific adapter plugs for their mobile charging cable, available through their online store, that do signal the max available current to the charger and thus the car.
 
I don't believe there is that setting. Do Tesla's have it?
It's not in the Lucid and Lucid is supposed to be releasing a 10-30 mobile plug also. They might have, ask the Scottsdale guys or customer service. Maybe put in an EVSE since that's a rental home? You could Hardwire it to the existing line and just let it charge slower.
 
We have a vacation rental in Payson, and our laundry room is off of the garage, so the idea was that I would use that outlet to charge the car when up there. When I took it up the first time, I discovered that my dryer was on a 3-prong outlet (10-30P I think). So I looked for an adapter and found this:


When I took the car back up, it seemed to work like a charm, but when checking it 10 minutes later, it appeared to flip the 30 amp breaker. Does anyone know if that would have been a fluke thing or the adapter is simply not down converting the amps to no more than 30 (if that's even the right question to ask). I was checking it pretty constantly initially to make sure I wasn't burning the house down, so I'm a bit nervous to try again. If it's not workable, I'll probably just add a 14-50 outlet, but I thought I'd ask this esteemed group.
The adapter is just adapting from one pin config to another and doesnt do anything to adapt currents. You can do what you did but must see so your load doesnt draw more than 30 a non continously (three hours) or 80 % of 30 a continously since your breaker is still 30 a. However, its good to always limit to 80 % for more than a few minutes because the heat build up in the receptacle and upstream breaker make them fatigue over time. Also good to have a heavy duty receptacle like industrial because will last. Cheap recepticals could heat fatigue over time loaded with 80 % and often and long hours which is the case for car as compared to washer causing it to melt down and for worst causing a fire. So very cheap insurance not to exceed ratings or using cheap receptacle. Note you cant adapt down from 50 a breaker and 50 a receptacle to 30 a female even with load limitation because itll still be possible to expose the 30 a female to more than 30 a. Itll overheat. This violates national electric code and insurance may not be valid.
 
It's not in the Lucid and Lucid is supposed to be releasing a 10-30 mobile plug also. They might have, ask the Scottsdale guys or customer service. Maybe put in an EVSE since that's a rental home? You could Hardwire it to the existing line and just let it charge slower.
I'd use a neocharge dryer circuit "splitter" and install a 30-amp plug on a Chargepoint home flex to plug into the neocharge. Set the Chargepoint for a 30 amp circuit. It'll charge at 24 amps. A friend just did this.
 
Has anyone had any experience using the Tesla hpwc to charge their lucid?
 
Has anyone had any experience using the Tesla hpwc to charge their lucid?
Several do here, using a TeslaTap or similar adapter.
 
How are the charge speeds? I believe the hpwc has to be on at least a 60amp circuit
The Gen 2 HPWC can be on any circuit up to 100 amps, supplying 80 amps. Gen 3 is good for a 60 amp circuit max, supplying 48 amps. Both HPWCs have a settable current limit for reduced-amperage installations. You'd want to buy an adapter rated for at least the same current as the HPWC is configured for, to avoid reducing charge current - higher is fine.
 
The Gen 2 HPWC can be on any circuit up to 100 amps, supplying 80 amps. Gen 3 is good for a 60 amp circuit max, supplying 48 amps. Both HPWCs have a settable current limit for reduced-amperage installations. You'd want to buy an adapter rated for at least the same current as the HPWC is configured for, to avoid reducing charge current - higher is fine.
Assuming it’s a gen 3 on a 60 amp circuit, do we know how well the lucid will perform in terms of charge speeds? I know Tesla quotes everything in miles per hour of charge. Currently, my model s gets about 27 miles per hour of charge on the hpwc setup mentioned above. Hoping I can just keep my hpwc and buy an adapter without a degraded charging experience for the lucid
 
Assuming it’s a gen 3 on a 60 amp circuit, do we know how well the lucid will perform in terms of charge speeds? I know Tesla quotes everything in miles per hour of charge. Currently, my model s gets about 27 miles per hour of charge on the hpwc setup mentioned above. Hoping I can just keep my hpwc and buy an adapter without a degraded charging experience for the lucid
kW charging rate is the only certainty - how many miles you get per hour of charging is determined by how you drive. A 60-amp circuit can charge at 48 amps x 240V or 11.5kW, a constant depending on your line voltage. If your driving style nets you 2.5 miles per kWh, that's 29 mph charging speed. At 3.5 miles per kWh, that's 40mph.
 
My ChargePoint is on a 50amp circuit in a NEMA 14-50 outlet, drawing 40 amps. I get 9.1 kW being delivered per hour. The car is adding about 7.3 kW per hour to the battery. The rest is wasted as heat and other transmission losses.
 
What if you charge at 48 amps on 50 amps circuit breakers? Is that going to hurt battery or just simply circuit jump?
 
What if you charge at 48 amps on 50 amps circuit breakers? Is that going to hurt battery or just simply circuit jump?
The wiring and receptacle can reach unsafe temperatures, creating a safety hazard (risk of fire). For continuous use, the National Electric Code allows only 80% of the rated current. This derating was taken into account when the wire's insulation and receptacle were designed.
 
A tyical redidental breaker also called 80 % breaker can only do 50 a non continuously ... it can do 80 % continously. If you ecxeeed this itll heat fatigue .... melt ...disform. However, therere 100 % breakers and they can do 100 a continuously. However, ot often used for residental. And the youd need to find a 100 % receptacle.
 
The wiring and receptacle can reach unsafe temperatures, creating a safety hazard (risk of fire). For continuous use, the National Electric Code allows only 80% of the rated current. This derating was taken into account when the wire's insulation and receptacle were designed.
@DeaneG
Thank you for your advice of fire hazard. I had QMeric come back to replace 50 amp to 60amp for my hardwired Wallbox 😎
6D3A7CB2-A59A-4078-AED6-D8F30F750988.jpeg
 
Back
Top