2.8.0 Software Update

I have a basic question. Can someone enlighten me as to how custom power limits are useful? I always charge at home with the Lucid charger so I don’t know how this may matter in public chargers.
 
Update failed and bricked my car for now basically. SOC shows 0 miles, but 54%. Will shift into drive but wont move. Waiting for tech support to push a new update to my car, when I called they said it would be "hopefully today" 👀
 
I have a basic question. Can someone enlighten me as to how custom power limits are useful? I always charge at home with the Lucid charger so I don’t know how this may matter in public chargers.
It's useful at home. Some people are using Lucid's mobile charging cable on a 14-50 receptacle, normally using a 50-amp breaker. But our national electrical code also allows a 40-amp breaker on this receptacle, so you'd need to reduce the car's charging current to 32 amps to avoid exceeding the circuit's 80% of breaker-size-rating and likely tripping the breaker.

Also, some want to use only generated solar power from their PV systems to charge their car. Being able to set a max current on the car while at home allows this.
 
I have a basic question. Can someone enlighten me as to how custom power limits are useful? I always charge at home with the Lucid charger so I don’t know how this may matter in public chargers.
Do you mean Ampere?

User customizable Ampere is offered in some cars like Gravity and not my current Air (I am still waiting for the update for that feature).

1) It is useful if I don't want the faster 80A charge and I prefer slower one.

2) Also if there's an improperly set up at home such as the outlet is NEMA 6-12 (120V 12A) but the only adapters sold for the connector are 14-50 (240V 50A) , 14-30 (240V 50A), and 5-15 (120V 15A). I could buy a NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 then plug in another adapter for NEMA 6-12 outlet. The Connector thinks it's NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 but it's not. It's only getting 12A from the outlet. Changing your car with this set up would fry the circuit breaker because it can't handle the demand of 50 or 30A from your car.

That's where the User customizable Ampere cones in. You would reduce the car's Ampere down to 12A.
 
Do you mean Ampere?

User customizable Ampere is offered in some cars like Gravity and not my current Air (I am still waiting for the update for that feature).

1) It is useful if I don't want the faster 80A charge and I prefer slower one.

2) Also if there's an improperly set up at home such as the outlet is NEMA 6-12 (120V 12A) but the only adapters sold for the connector are 14-50 (240V 50A) , 14-30 (240V 50A), and 5-15 (120V 15A). I could buy a NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 then plug in another adapter for NEMA 6-12 outlet. The Connector thinks it's NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 but it's not. It's only getting 12A from the outlet. Changing your car with this set up would fry the circuit breaker because it can't handle the demand of 50 or 30A from your car.

That's where the User customizable Ampere cones in. You would reduce the car's Ampere down to 12A.
I do have a 100A breaker at home so that’s not an issue with my Lucid charger. How would the customization help with public chargers ?
 
Do you mean Ampere?

User customizable Ampere is offered in some cars like Gravity and not my current Air (I am still waiting for the update for that feature).

1) It is useful if I don't want the faster 80A charge and I prefer slower one.

2) Also if there's an improperly set up at home such as the outlet is NEMA 6-12 (120V 12A) but the only adapters sold for the connector are 14-50 (240V 50A) , 14-30 (240V 50A), and 5-15 (120V 15A). I could buy a NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 then plug in another adapter for NEMA 6-12 outlet. The Connector thinks it's NEMA 14-50 or 14-30 but it's not. It's only getting 12A from the outlet. Changing your car with this set up would fry the circuit breaker because it can't handle the demand of 50 or 30A from your car.

That's where the User customizable Ampere cones in. You would reduce the car's Ampere down to 12A.How do I use the app to reduce the charging amps? Or is it done on the
How do I change the charging amps using the app? Or is it done on the dash screen?
 
I do have a 100A breaker at home so that’s not an issue with my Lucid charger. How would the customization help with public chargers ?
While it's been a while, at several hotels a few years ago (when I had my Model S with this feature), I had to reduce that max amps or it would blow their circuit breaker. Probably a fringe case nowadays, but nice to have the option as when it happenned to me, that was the difference in being able to charge or not at all.
 
I do have a 100A breaker at home so that’s not an issue with my Lucid charger. How would the customization help with public chargers ?
It doesn't to my knowledge. Can be useful at home, but you don't want it active at a public charging station. Hence the geofencing.
 
How do I change the charging amps using the app? Or is it done on the dash screen?
I tried looking in the app and couldn't find it. The only option I saw was on the pilot screen. Hopefully the ability to set it in the phone app comes in the future update.
 
Version 2.8.0, initialized last night. At 1:20 PM today, software update still updating hung at 92%. That can't be normal, right? Just saying!
Have uninstalled the Lucid app and still same issue. Vehicle shows offline in the app, however, the AT will unlock, start and run. Any ideas or recommendations? Thanks
 
I personally want to do some more testing with hands free, but my initial reaction is that it’s really smooth and controlled. More so than regular drive assist, at least for me. Great first impression for sure. Will want to do a longer trip to see how capable it really is.

Super cruise works extremely well, in my experience. Even does auto lane changes based on traffic in front of you. (Hands free does not do yet). Makes long drives much more relaxing. One of the many reasons why hands free has been one of my biggest wish list items.
I'm curious about your GM Super cruise experience specifically the auto lane change capability. My mind may be too thick to comprehend so please explain how the car knows a lane change should be made without your input?
 
I found the hands free lacking. It kept going from hands free to not hands free every few miles. So essentially it was not hands free….
Lower your steering wheel. The camera cannot see your face consistently.
 
Thanks for the feedback, and it would be helpful to know what triggered it to go to "not hands free" when it happened.
I would bet some dollars that the steering wheel is blocking the camera from seeing the driver’s face.
 
Lower your steering wheel. The camera cannot see your face consistently.
I have the feeling that with this release, a lot of people will find they need to adjust their steering wheel downward. One of the Air's few ergonomic design glitches.
 
Version 2.8.0, initialized last night. At 1:20 PM today, software update still updating hung at 92%. That can't be normal, right? Just saying!
Have uninstalled the Lucid app and still same issue. Vehicle shows offline in the app, however, the AT will unlock, start and run. Any ideas or recommendations? Thanks
Yeah seems unusual. Call customer care.
 
I have the feeling that with this release, a lot of people will find they need to adjust their steering wheel downward. One of the Air's few ergonomic design glitches.
Completely agreed.
 
Lower your steering wheel. The camera cannot see your face consistently.
So here is what made HF work with and without glasses.

1. Lower the steering wheel till I can see 1/2 inch below the driver facing camera.

2. Delete and add facial recognition while looking straight at the road instead of looking
at the screen to confirm that it was done correctly.

With the above 2 changes. HF worked perfectly on 680 between MIssion Blvd north of Washington Blvd and King Rd.
 
I had to lower my steering wheel a little to get it to work but then it lit up ( lets you know hands free engaged) and works well extending the amount of time I can drive in a single session for long trip
 
I found the hands free lacking. It kept going from hands free to not hands free every few miles. So essentially it was not hands free….
I am thinking that you have your steering wheel adjusted right on the edge of blocking your face. As you drive along and adjust your sitting position slightly, you are going in and out of camera view. The common guidance for most users having issues is LOWER STEERING WHEEL. It would help if it gave drivers a “Face not in view” message when it cuts out.
 
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