Suspension Clunk

[Blue Lectroid]

The KOP service center said that they found no issue. I sent a copy of the above work order and asked them to verify the torque specs just to be safe before returning the car to me. Well see! Dana has been amazing to work with. That said, I was surprised that they found “no issue” as when a suspension noise that was not there previously starts (and progresses), IME there IS something going on…

 

[scal_air]

I was in and out of the service center today in 20 min. Sound is gone (for now). I hope this isn’t an early indicator of some longer term issues. Attached the work that was done.

That's exactly what happened with mine. They had to come back after twice for the same thing. The last time, they replaced the nut and said if it happens again, they may have to loctite the nut or replace the sway bar. Luckily it hasn't happened again and it's been 8 months.

 

[scal_air]

The KOP service center said that they found no issue. I sent a copy of the above work order and asked them to verify the torque specs just to be safe before returning the car to me. Well see! Dana has been amazing to work with. That said, I was surprised that they found “no issue” as when a suspension noise that was not there previously starts (and progresses), IME there IS something going on…

It's hard when you're not there to point out the noise. Luckily, I had mobile visits and knew exactly where to drive to produce the noise. The technician said he knew what the problem was the first time he heard it. I gathered by that comment, he's seen it before.

 

[Jmh1023]

What kind of noise were you hearing? Thinking I may need my left front strut replaced as well

It was just a dull thud when I went over manhole covers, speed bumps, small pot holes. I drove around with the mobile tech when he was at my house in December to update the stereo and it took a couple tried but he finally heard it and told me it was the strut. It has been replaced and so far I haven’t heard the thud while driving. Don’t accept anything other than a complete remedy from Lucid. Good Luck!

 

[NolaLucid]

I called the service team in Houston and was told they know the exact problem. A “quick fix”. I’ll post an update Tuesday when I take it in.

That's great news, because my 2025 with ~1000 miles is at the Houston Service Center for the same thing!

This is just a theory, but I think part of reason the service centers are unable to reproduce the sounds is that they are probably located in newer suburban areas, not the urban or rural areas with rougher roads where many owners live.

 

[mustafam1]

Houston replaced my driver side strut during the first fix attempt - which didn’t resolve it.

Additionally I had mobile techs come out this week to take a look at a speaker that sounds blown after Houston supposedly replaced it over a week ago - and they were quite disappointed it was sent back to me the way it sounded. Mobile techs told me they’d inform the service center that the repairs were not in fact completed - and for me to hang tight for next steps. My faith in the Houston service center is dwindling to say the least.

Considering these two experiences - I’m now starting to believe whoever’s working on my car at the service center is getting the new parts mixed with the old and reinstalling the old faulty parts. That’s the impression I was left with

 

[FlashWin]

Houston replaced my driver side strut during the first fix attempt - which didn’t resolve it.

Additionally I had mobile techs come out this week to take a look at a speaker that sounds blown after Houston supposedly replaced it over a week ago - and they were quite disappointed it was sent back to me the way it sounded. Mobile techs told me they’d inform the service center that the repairs were not in fact completed - and for me to hang tight for next steps. My faith in the Houston service center is dwindling to say the least.

Considering these two experiences - I’m now starting to believe whoever’s working on my car at the service center is getting the new parts mixed with the old and reinstalling the old faulty parts. That’s the impression I was left with

This sucks.

Seems like there is an extra level of attention for when you are in person at the service center. It's unfortunate there is a delta in level of service when you can't be in person.

 

[heisenberg_007]

After chasing Service team for almost 3 months, they were able to finally "isolate the noise to be coming from brake hardware on both front and right side calipers". The noise appears to have disappeared post brake assembly replacement. No clunk since then.

 

[mustafam1]

After chasing Service team for almost 3 months, they were able to finally "isolate the noise to be coming from brake hardware on both front and right side calipers". The noise appears to have disappeared post brake assembly replacement. No clunk since then.

My car’s going back to the Houston service center again today so they can redo their botched fix on one of my woofers - going to see if they can checkout my calipers too to see if that fixes my suspension clunk. Hopefully it doesn’t take long because I wasn’t offered a loaner or rental car this time around.

 

[mustafam1]

Just kidding - it’s being towed to a shop in Fort Worth where the remote techs will replace the woofer.

No getting the suspension clunk fixed for me I guess lol

 

[Pavlova]

I had a similar issue as you have described and mine ended up being a loose anti-roll bar link hardware.

 

[Cabonzhp]

Throwing in my 2 cents that I have the same driver front issue and my service center made me think I was crazy. 24 Pure RWD. I even jacked up the car and inspected everything prior to bringing it in, since a previous job as a BMW tech had me hunting for noises like this quite often. A method that has almost always worked for finding these is lifting the wheel a couple inches off the ground, sticking a long pry bar under the wheel, and levering up. I checked all the bolts and found nothing. Brought the car to Torrance center and got the exact same response as all above posts. Part of me wonders if this noise is actually in the dash or front area of the car near the suspension, but not the suspension itself

 

[NewAirPure]

I have the same issue and my car was towed back to service center in Orange County on Friday for the 2nd time with the same issue. The first time they told me it was some sort of brake cable which sounds bizarre. In any case, they "fixed" it which lasted a couple of months and now it's worse than over, mainly passenger side. My sales rep told me one of the demo vehicles just had the same thing happen for the first time. We will see...

I am going back into service on my 2025 Air pure for a sound that replicates a loose nut on a ball joint or bad bushing, only left front driver side, and had my car in @ 130 miles now taking it back again at 1k miles. The first time they told me nothing was wrong during my test drive with the technician, but keep my car for “We owe” from purchase inspection. Then called me two days later and said a different technician isolated the noise the the left front fender and hood gap spacing. I said “He’ll Nah” they said we adjusted the spacing. Now truth be told, I didn’t do anything and I just assumed as they stated this is normal. Now my passenger actually heard the noise with no music on just recently and I final said to myself I can’t accept this, especially on a brand new car and made the second appointment. I have driven and owned 20 vehicles and I am a long time mechanical technician and Machinist at Anheuser Busch and have worked and all my cars, Mercedes, BMW, and such. This noise isn’t normal, and is truly unacceptable.

 

[NewAirPure]

I called the service team in Houston and was told they know the exact problem. A “quick fix”. I’ll post an update Tuesday when I take it in.

Let me know because I am also in Houston and was told it was a hood panel spacing from the hood strut, whelp that didn’t fix it. Going back in April again….

 

[NewAirPure]

That's exactly what happened with mine. They had to come back after twice for the same thing. The last time, they replaced the nut and said if it happens again, they may have to loctite the nut or replace the sway bar. Luckily it hasn't happened again and it's been 8 months.

At this point I’ll replace the nut, and loctite it my self….oh yeah and torque it. Lol

 

[NewAirPure]

It was just a dull thud when I went over manhole covers, speed bumps, small pot holes. I drove around with the mobile tech when he was at my house in December to update the stereo and it took a couple tried but he finally heard it and told me it was the strut. It has been replaced and so far I haven’t heard the thud while driving. Don’t accept anything other than a complete remedy from Lucid. Good Luck!

I wonder if replacing the strut worked because most macphenson style suspensions require you to remove the strut bar end links as they are mechanically attached by a bracket welded to the strut housing. So in hindsight they fixed the “actually” problem when addressing the suspected failing part. Reason I say that, when your strut is failing you have extremely high tire wear and your driving characteristics are changed by the lack of rebound control through the valving on the strut. So you would keep doing an alignment every couple of weeks or months as your tire isn’t actually applying resistance to the body frame holding the tire to the driving surface.

 

[scal_air]

At this point I’ll replace the nut, and loctite it my self….oh yeah and torque it. Lol

Yeah, it was maddening that the same issue kept recurring. But everytine they torqued it up, the noise went away, so I knew that was the problem. It was strange that the loose nut was the front passenger sway bar attachment but the thunk sounded like it was coming from the back - at least to my ears in the driver's seat. But being able to reproduce the noise, because it was a mobile technician and I drove it around my house, made it easier for the technician to diagnose the issue.

 

[NewAirPure]

I emailed my advisor Victoria stating please replace all nuts for the sway bay end links and loctite them. There are three versions of locktite and if there using the low grade (strength) they need to bump it to the middle.