Survey: Your plans for exterior paint protection

What have you done (or plan to do) to protect the exterior paint of your new Lucid Air?

  • Paint Protection Film (PPF) and Ceramic Coating

    Votes: 51 48.6%
  • Paint Protection Film (PPF) with no Ceramic Coating

    Votes: 13 12.4%
  • Ceramic Coating with no PPF

    Votes: 18 17.1%
  • Paint sealer

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Regular waxing

    Votes: 9 8.6%
  • Nothing other than washing the car

    Votes: 13 12.4%
  • Other - Please post an explanation

    Votes: 1 1.0%

  • Total voters
    105
Where I live the front end PPF is better money spent than any ceramic coating. My first fun car was a BMW Z3 and by the time I sold it, it looked like it had freckles all over the front even with all the touch up paint.
 
Where I live the front end PPF is better money spent than any ceramic coating. My first fun car was a BMW Z3 and by the time I sold it, it looked like it had freckles all over the front even with all the touch up paint.
Xpel now has a new Fusion PPF that includes a very hydrophobic coating so you don't need the ceramic coating if you go with that option.
 
Xpel now has a new Fusion PPF that includes a very hydrophobic coating so you don't need the ceramic coating if you go with that option.
I was told that the ceramic coating is still at least 5 times more effective.
 
I was told that the ceramic coating is still at least 5 times more effective.
More effective in what way? As it happens I used the original Xpel Ultimate PPF and FeynLab Heal Plus Ceramic Coating on top of the PPF but now the Fusion might be a better option. Not sure why ceramic coating would be any more effective.
 
More effective in what way? As it happens I used the original Xpel Ultimate PPF and FeynLab Heal Plus Ceramic Coating on top of the PPF but now the Fusion might be a better option. Not sure why ceramic coating would be any more effective.
Because in the case the Opti-coat, you can build up a thicker layer of ceramic and the hardness is higher as well
 
Because in the case the Opti-coat, you can build up a thicker layer of ceramic and the hardness is higher as well
I hear you and like I said I did put the ceramic coating on top of the Xpel Ultimate PPF, but in reality I think the "9h H" hardness factor is just marketing hype. I'm sure it doesn't hurt anything to add it to the very hydrophobic Xpel Fusion, but since they also sell their own brand of ceramic coating and don't recommend it on top of the Fusion PPF, I'm guessing there is little benefit. But, hey, its only money!!
 
I hear you and like I said I did put the ceramic coating on top of the Xpel Ultimate PPF, but in reality I think the "9h H" hardness factor is just marketing hype. I'm sure it doesn't hurt anything to add it to the very hydrophobic Xpel Fusion, but since they also sell their own brand of ceramic coating and don't recommend it on top of the Fusion PPF, I'm guessing there is little benefit. But, hey, its only money!!
work hard play hard, can't take it with us when we die!
 
I had been planning on doing Xpel Stealth with ceramic on top, but looking at some pictures of that combo, it looked quite shiny, which I felt would defeat the purpose of Stealth.

I am now going with STEK Dynomatt with ceramic on top (Gtechniq Halo), which the installer said doesn't add any shine to the satin/matte wrap.

It's going to cost me $6650 for the PPF, $500 for the ceramic, $400 to ceramic coat the wheels and $250 to coat the glass. So $7800 total.
 
The ceramic coating won't do you any good for rock chips or other flying objects on the highway that hit the car.

That's true, and I've said as much several times.

However, a premium ceramic coating such as one based on silicon carbide does considerably more than just facilitate washing and drying. It adds UV protection; increases resistance to chemical damage from bugs, bird droppings, tree sap, etc.; enhances protection from light scratching, such as swirls from improper washing; and provides durable water beading which means you never have to wax the car.

To get the additional rock chip protection that PPF provides you take on the risks of edge lifting, dirt lines at the seams, yellowing with some films, and loss of ability to touch up small chips.

I'm not saying there is not a good case for using a PPF. I'm just saying that, as with almost everything about a car, there are some trade-offs involved.
 
. . . I think the "9h H" hardness factor is just marketing hype.

I think Opti-Coat claims a MOHS factor of 8. After having an earlier version of it on a Tesla through six years of driving and car washing with nary a swirl to be found, I tend to believe it. I've had the Pro3 (much more difficult and time-consuming to apply, but four times as thick when done) on our Zenith Red Air for 4,500 miles and even longer on our Model S Plaid. The Zenith Red is almost as prone as a black car to show imperfections such as swirl marks. The finish looks like a telescope mirror after a wash.

Florida is Bug Central, and driving any distance leaves quite a collection of dead bugs on the front bumper of the Lucid. A light swipe with a damp paper towel causes the bug debris to come right off with virtually no pressure or scrubbing.
 
What a bummer . Did this happen on the 60 or 202? I've had several rock chips along the 60.
It was on 60. I'm rarely down that way. Most of my troubles are on the 101 at Raintree since the DOT refuses to do anything until they get around to widening that section.
 
It was on 60. I'm rarely down that way. Most of my troubles are on the 101 at Raintree since the DOT refuses to do anything until they get around to widening that section.
Wife used to work in that area, and we became frequent flier at Safelite glass shop.
I'm wondering if there's any utility for a piece of ppf on the top part of the car. I suppose there may be some protection against small gravels.
Has anyone put ppf on sunroofs?
 
I see the value of PPF but not sure if I should do the ceramic coating vs just get an automatic car wash with wax every month or so. Yeah it won’t look as nice if u look super closely but for the average person, not sure if they can se the difference ? I had a BMW i8 for 5 years and sis exactly that and it still looked gorgeous the day I sold it
 
That's true, and I've said as much several times.

However, a premium ceramic coating such as one based on silicon carbide does considerably more than just facilitate washing and drying. It adds UV protection; increases resistance to chemical damage from bugs, bird droppings, tree sap, etc.; enhances protection from light scratching, such as swirls from improper washing; and provides durable water beading which means you never have to wax the car.

To get the additional rock chip protection that PPF provides you take on the risks of edge lifting, dirt lines at the seams, yellowing with some films, and loss of ability to touch up small chips.

I'm not saying there is not a good case for using a PPF. I'm just saying that, as with almost everything about a car, there are some trade-offs involved.
I don't disagree but I was responding to whether ceramic coating is needed on top of PPF. I do have ceramic coating on top of my Xpel Ultimate PPF but now Xpel has a new PPF with a hydrophobic coating imbedded in the PPF. They also make a ceramic coating but they don't deem it necessary if you get the new Xpel Fusion+ PPF. Certainly you can apply ceramic coating on top of the PPF but the "hardness" rating is "hype" in my opinion. All the other factors you mention (UV protection; resistance to chemical damage from bugs, bird droppings, tree sap, swirls from washing, etc.) are all protected with the hydrophobic PPF. If you choose a quality detailer to do the installation and all the edges are wrapped as opposed to using pre-cut templates, there won't be any edge lifting or dirt lines. As for yellowing, Xpel guarantees their products.
 
For those of you who are congenitally old school, here's my Air GT with a fresh coat of hand-applied wax, just waiting to be buffed out (also by hand, of course!).

IMG_6070.jpgIMG_6071.jpg
 
I was on the fence about PPF/ceramic, I think it depends on the car. But multiple detailers have said Lucid’s paint is “soft”, and based on the paint chips that happened on the hood of my Mercedes from normal driving/New England winters I think it’s mandatory to do hood/fenders/mirrors PPF. I’m gonna do ceramic also just cuz of reported ease of washing. After doing one wash on my car so far before any of that stuff has gone on the black, while it is gorgeous in person, looks dirty FAST and water spots show up everywhere even if you thought you dried it perfect, and the front bumper metal really shows those spots. And rain adds more water spots, so ceramic really should help that dirty water slide off.
Actually the dealers are incorrect the paint is very hard thus chipping and scratching is readily visible.
 
I have had Opti Coat Pro Plus applied to my AGT, but no PPF. My experience with Opticoat over the past ten years on several cars is that it resists etching from bird droppings or caustic substances and the car is much easier to wash. My experience with PPF is that stone chips have cut through the film and made any chips more noticeable. Also, PPF finish was not as shiny as just the Opti Coat finish. Materials probably have improved in the six years since I last had frontal PPF applied, so finishes now may well be better than earlier versions.
 
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