Xpel now has a new Fusion PPF that includes a very hydrophobic coating so you don't need the ceramic coating if you go with that option.Where I live the front end PPF is better money spent than any ceramic coating. My first fun car was a BMW Z3 and by the time I sold it, it looked like it had freckles all over the front even with all the touch up paint.
I was told that the ceramic coating is still at least 5 times more effective.Xpel now has a new Fusion PPF that includes a very hydrophobic coating so you don't need the ceramic coating if you go with that option.
More effective in what way? As it happens I used the original Xpel Ultimate PPF and FeynLab Heal Plus Ceramic Coating on top of the PPF but now the Fusion might be a better option. Not sure why ceramic coating would be any more effective.I was told that the ceramic coating is still at least 5 times more effective.
Because in the case the Opti-coat, you can build up a thicker layer of ceramic and the hardness is higher as wellMore effective in what way? As it happens I used the original Xpel Ultimate PPF and FeynLab Heal Plus Ceramic Coating on top of the PPF but now the Fusion might be a better option. Not sure why ceramic coating would be any more effective.
I hear you and like I said I did put the ceramic coating on top of the Xpel Ultimate PPF, but in reality I think the "9h H" hardness factor is just marketing hype. I'm sure it doesn't hurt anything to add it to the very hydrophobic Xpel Fusion, but since they also sell their own brand of ceramic coating and don't recommend it on top of the Fusion PPF, I'm guessing there is little benefit. But, hey, its only money!!Because in the case the Opti-coat, you can build up a thicker layer of ceramic and the hardness is higher as well
work hard play hard, can't take it with us when we die!I hear you and like I said I did put the ceramic coating on top of the Xpel Ultimate PPF, but in reality I think the "9h H" hardness factor is just marketing hype. I'm sure it doesn't hurt anything to add it to the very hydrophobic Xpel Fusion, but since they also sell their own brand of ceramic coating and don't recommend it on top of the Fusion PPF, I'm guessing there is little benefit. But, hey, its only money!!
The ceramic coating won't do you any good for rock chips or other flying objects on the highway that hit the car.
. . . I think the "9h H" hardness factor is just marketing hype.
It was on 60. I'm rarely down that way. Most of my troubles are on the 101 at Raintree since the DOT refuses to do anything until they get around to widening that section.What a bummer . Did this happen on the 60 or 202? I've had several rock chips along the 60.
Wife used to work in that area, and we became frequent flier at Safelite glass shop.It was on 60. I'm rarely down that way. Most of my troubles are on the 101 at Raintree since the DOT refuses to do anything until they get around to widening that section.
I don't disagree but I was responding to whether ceramic coating is needed on top of PPF. I do have ceramic coating on top of my Xpel Ultimate PPF but now Xpel has a new PPF with a hydrophobic coating imbedded in the PPF. They also make a ceramic coating but they don't deem it necessary if you get the new Xpel Fusion+ PPF. Certainly you can apply ceramic coating on top of the PPF but the "hardness" rating is "hype" in my opinion. All the other factors you mention (UV protection; resistance to chemical damage from bugs, bird droppings, tree sap, swirls from washing, etc.) are all protected with the hydrophobic PPF. If you choose a quality detailer to do the installation and all the edges are wrapped as opposed to using pre-cut templates, there won't be any edge lifting or dirt lines. As for yellowing, Xpel guarantees their products.That's true, and I've said as much several times.
However, a premium ceramic coating such as one based on silicon carbide does considerably more than just facilitate washing and drying. It adds UV protection; increases resistance to chemical damage from bugs, bird droppings, tree sap, etc.; enhances protection from light scratching, such as swirls from improper washing; and provides durable water beading which means you never have to wax the car.
To get the additional rock chip protection that PPF provides you take on the risks of edge lifting, dirt lines at the seams, yellowing with some films, and loss of ability to touch up small chips.
I'm not saying there is not a good case for using a PPF. I'm just saying that, as with almost everything about a car, there are some trade-offs involved.
It’s actually a hydrophobic coating.@Minnesota Mike: Many of the new films (SunTek Reaction and Xpel Ultimate) have an outer 'ceramic like' layer such that you never need PPF and Ceramic
I think that’s very expensive@zkhan2 I was just under $7K for full car PPF, window tint, windshield protective film and interior ceramic + carpet protection
Actually the dealers are incorrect the paint is very hard thus chipping and scratching is readily visible.I was on the fence about PPF/ceramic, I think it depends on the car. But multiple detailers have said Lucid’s paint is “soft”, and based on the paint chips that happened on the hood of my Mercedes from normal driving/New England winters I think it’s mandatory to do hood/fenders/mirrors PPF. I’m gonna do ceramic also just cuz of reported ease of washing. After doing one wash on my car so far before any of that stuff has gone on the black, while it is gorgeous in person, looks dirty FAST and water spots show up everywhere even if you thought you dried it perfect, and the front bumper metal really shows those spots. And rain adds more water spots, so ceramic really should help that dirty water slide off.