Solar for Charging Purposes

It has to be 88 usable and 92 total. Otherwise how do you explain my 88 remaining capacity with 1k miles on a Touring?

Additionally the Lucid website shows the Pure and Touring get the same range and charge speed. Charge speed should be marginally slower if the capacity was 5% less.
I agree with you. When it show 0% there is probably a 4kWh buffer in Air Pure AWD and it is not degradation.
 
It has to be 88 usable and 92 total. Otherwise how do you explain my 88 remaining capacity with 1k miles on a Touring?

Additionally the Lucid website shows the Pure and Touring get the same range and charge speed. Charge speed should be marginally slower if the capacity was 5% less.
I really can’t say with 100% certainty. I remember when I owned an I-Pace, we were able to pull up ‘battery health’ numbers and they were all over the place. Some began to think these numbers were simply not precise. The same thing happened over at the BMW i4 site, numbers all over the place. That’s why I’m somewhat skeptical at this point.
 
I really can’t say with 100% certainty. I remember when I owned an I-Pace, we were able to pull up ‘battery health’ numbers and they were all over the place. Some began to think these numbers were simply not precise. The same thing happened over at the BMW i4 site, numbers all over the place. That’s why I’m somewhat skeptical at this point.
Yea that’s possible. I’m pretty sure the Pure is 92kwh but One thing that could make the numbers random and all over the place could be calibration too. In some cars with higher mileage you need to run them 100-0-100 a couple times to refresh the calibration.
 
Yea that’s possible. I’m pretty sure the Pure is 92kwh but One thing that could make the numbers random and all over the place could be calibration too. In some cars with higher mileage you need to run them 100-0-100 a couple times to refresh the calibration.
True. Kia recommends this with the EV9, as I found out despite it having li-ion vs LFP! Maybe you could try a 100 percent charge?
 
True. Kia recommends this with the EV9, as I found out despite it having li-ion vs LFP! Maybe you could try a 100 percent charge?
Nah, i'm 99.99% sure that my 1k mile car doesn't need calibration. The remaining battery API probably caps at 88.3 (usable capacity). Someone else above just posted a 500km car with 88.35. I think that's definitive proof. Unless someone shows a car with >89, i think the calibration is not the issue. Peak API reading will be 88 on the Pure/Touring and 74 on the Ioniq 5. LOL
 
Perhaps we can get somebody who just received their Lucid to run the API and then we can get a better idea of the API number vs. max KWh??
Not exactly what you're looking for, but maybe next best thing: I got my HV battery + wunderbox replaced 3 months ago at the beginning of Nov, and since then it's only had 1k miles, no DCFC and no charging above 80 %

I'm getting back 107.88 for the "state -> battery -> capacity_kwhr" field in the response
 
Not exactly what you're looking for, but maybe next best thing: I got my HV battery + wunderbox replaced 3 months ago at the beginning of Nov, and since then it's only had 1k miles, no DCFC and no charging above 80 %

I'm getting back 107.88 for the "state -> battery -> capacity_kwhr" field in the response
Anyone know what the supposed "usable" battery is for the GT? I'm gonna assume it has the same 4kwh buffer as the Pure/Touring. Which would make it 108? If so your number totally checks out for 0 degradation 👍
 
There's going to be a tolerance on battery capacity even when new, as well.
 
My GT is 103 kW after 21 months 18K miles.

This morning I charged to 100% for a road trip today. It is showing at 93% at fully charged.
112kW x 93% = 104.2 kW. The API showed 103kW. I guess this is all just estimate numbers.
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A few different ways:

1) Easiest is to use https://testmycode.cc/. It was set up by @segbrk to help us define some of the fields in the gRPC API [0]. You put in your Lucid Motors credentials, it authenticates with the real Lucid Motors API (that we reversed) and returns a lot of info.

That info is cleaned for anything sensitive [1], and then you can optionally submit the info to us so we can glean anything useful from it to expand the API. The last step is helpful to us, but not required to view your own info. Your credentials are not stored anywhere, and the sensitive info that is cleaned isn’t either.

Of course, you may not trust it (which I get - again, I am a security wonk), so…

2) Under the hood it is running https://github.com/nshp/python-lucidmotors. The second easiest option is to clone / download that GitHub repo, follow the instructions there, and get the data on your terminal locally - assuming you’re comfortable with the terminal and running some Python.

3) The third easiest option [2] is to use the Home Assistant integration: https://github.com/borski/ha-lucidmotors

Follow the instructions there after you have installed Home Assistant and you’ll see all the info show up as entities that update in real time. [3]

[0] Since, unlike the older REST API, gRPC fields are just unlabeled integers - mapping those was a pain, and mostly involved getting tons of data from different cars and comparing the results of the gRPC API call and the REST API call.

[1] I think it includes the avatar, if you’ve selected one, which is a fix we haven’t made yet - sorry about that.

[2] If you are already running Home Assistant somewhere, this is actually the easiest option, by far. It’s only harder if you don’t already have HA set up - but HA gets you a ton of benefit, if you do choose.

[3] Not actually real time, but close enough. It updates regularly.
I just downloaded the data and submitted it. Quick question the odometer says smth totally different than what's on the car. Am I looking at that right? TIA
 
I just downloaded the data and submitted it. Quick question the odometer says smth totally different than what's on the car. Am I looking at that right? TIA
It shows the odometer in km, not miles.
 
It shows the odometer in km, not miles.
I knew there was a catch. Thanks. Should've figured that out when I noticed the temp was in "C" and not "F" plus the tire pressures. My bad.
 
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