Received my Tesla Tap

Is the TeslaTap certified at all? I have a Tesla wall charger installed in my home garage. About to take delivery of my Air and the Lucid delivery rep is telling me horror stories about adapters melting and ruining my Lucid. I’m nervous to now connect an adapter to my Tesla wall charger … but don’t really want to call an electrician out to install a 240 v plug. Would love to use the Tesla charger to charge my Lucid. Any comments or thoughts from this group?
The lucid people are trying to sell you a charger you don’t need. Lol. Just get an adaptor and you’re all set.

Unles you want the full 80A charging for your air. Then you need to upgrade.

I would think if there were a lot of stories of melting and ruining a Lucid you would see it somewhere on this forum, or another Lucid forum. I haven’t come across a story like this. I imagine it would be a popular thread.
 
Is the TeslaTap certified at all? I have a Tesla wall charger installed in my home garage. About to take delivery of my Air and the Lucid delivery rep is telling me horror stories about adapters melting and ruining my Lucid. I’m nervous to now connect an adapter to my Tesla wall charger … but don’t really want to call an electrician out to install a 240 v plug. Would love to use the Tesla charger to charge my Lucid. Any comments or thoughts from this group?

Fake News.
 
I've been using the Tesla Tap Mini (80A) with my Tesla Wall Connector (Gen 2) for the last 5 months. It has worked quite well. The only problem I have had was that you need to occasionally detach and reattach the Mini from the Tesla connector or else the car will not recognize it. The instructions for the mini tap say to do this every time you charge and you should disconnect for 30 seconds. I've ignored this and only do it if charging stops or does not start.

I have also tried the mini tap on my Tesla Gen-1 (80A) Wall connector at our vacation home. The maximum power I got from it was 17kW, which is the same as the Gen-2 at my house. I suspect that it only reports the power going to the battery and not the power it is drawing from the wall connector. Or it could be something to do with the Tesla Tap Mini. My house is on Solar and when the sun is shining the voltage is 240V+, so it's not due to lower voltage.
 
Did the DA specifically cite an issue with adapters melting on Lucids, or a more general safety issue for non UL-rated adapters? The latter would make sense; the TeslaTap isn’t rated or certified, and as we know, lots of things that aren’t certified have bad QA and can melt or become faulty at high current. That said, I haven’t seen any reports of that happening with a TeslaTap specifically. But yeah, it isn’t UL-rated or certified in any way, to my knowledge.
 
So I received a call from my DA today about some questions that needed some answering (both from him, and myself). I mentioned that I had a Tesla Tap, and he mentioned that it could cause warranty issues if used. I did not dwell on the subject as I had other things to discuss...
 
I purchased an 80A a few months ago. Now that I’m planning on driving the car from Florida to Connecticut, I visited a Tesla destination charging location to make sure the TeslaTap would fit and work. Here’s the end result! The Tesla plug broke off! Took a bit of work to separate the Tesla plug from the TeslaTap. Bought a couple of steel files to work on the TeslaTap to loosen the connection. Still working on it after an hour.
 

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I think @Alex also mentioned having to modified. @Pete44, can you specify what part of the tap we need to file down and by how much? Is this the circumference on top?
Thanks.
 
I think @Alex also mentioned having to modified. @Pete44, can you specify what part of the tap we need to file down and by how much? Is this the circumference on top?
Thanks.
I’d say pretty much the entire circumference. Tough to say how much but spent over an hour filing and smoothing before it fit correctly. My advice is to test before you might have to use it and don’t force it. I’m lucky no one saw what I did to the Tesla destination charger.
 
I’d say pretty much the entire circumference. Tough to say how much but spent over an hour filing and smoothing before it fit correctly. My advice is to test before you might have to use it and don’t force it. I’m lucky no one saw what I did to the Tesla destination charger.
Thanks for the info. I may just use one of those bench grinders to file the whole thing down.
 
I would assume that the Tesla male part went to tap that female adapter and broke.

Must’ve been quite traumatic.
 
I think @Alex also mentioned having to modified. @Pete44, can you specify what part of the tap we need to file down and by how much? Is this the circumference on top?
Thanks.
@Alex care to chime in here? I have not tried mine out yet, but think I should before I try it on my Lucid, or end up stuck some where. Would really like to know if you made any adjustments to the actual device at all. I would have thought it would have worked straight out of the box!
 
On my TeslaTap mini, the force-fit was the female part of the TeslaTap with the male Tesla plug. I opened up the Tap's tesla side with a rat-tail file and got it to more or less work, but not well enough for everyday plugging and unplugging. Improving the fit was difficult because the problem is on the inside of a hole rather than the outside of a plug. I should have just returned it and bought something else - the TeslaTap isn't fit for purpose.
 
@Alex care to chime in here? I have not tried mine out yet, but think I should before I try it on my Lucid, or end up stuck some where. Would really like to know if you made any adjustments to the actual device at all. I would have thought it would have worked straight out of the box!
I didn’t make any adjustment to the Tesla tap itself. I have 3 Tesla Wall connectors at home (Gen 2). Only one had this problem, so I filed it down a bit. This one was purchased after the other two. I have a gen 1 wall connector at my vacation home and it didn’t need any adjustment. I also have the cable version of the connector and it has always worked with no adjustments on all Tesla connectors. Ideally, I should have filed down the Tesla tap, but I was too lazy to get out the Dremel tool.
 
Did the DA specifically cite an issue with adapters melting on Lucids, or a more general safety issue for non UL-rated adapters? The latter would make sense; the TeslaTap isn’t rated or certified, and as we know, lots of things that aren’t certified have bad QA and can melt or become faulty at high current. That said, I haven’t seen any reports of that happening with a TeslaTap specifically. But yeah, it isn’t UL-rated or certified in any way, to my knowledge.
Per Tesla Tap, their 40A and 50A adapters have a UL rating for the “handle and cable”, but not the 80A version. Not sure why the are so specific about the handle and cable being rated… I.e. does that mean the actual connection isn’t rated.

Tales of this breaking off pieces of destination chargers make me a little nervous though (and if that’s really a problem it’s not going to be helpful for EV charging infrastructure in general)
 
Per Tesla Tap, their 40A and 50A adapters have a UL rating for the “handle and cable”, but not the 80A version. Not sure why the are so specific about the handle and cable being rated… I.e. does that mean the actual connection isn’t rated.

Tales of this breaking off pieces of destination chargers make me a little nervous though (and if that’s really a problem it’s not going to be helpful for EV charging infrastructure in general)
For what it’s worth I’ve been using my TeslaTap Mini 80 daily for 7 months with a Gen3 Tesla Wall Charger and a Taycan with zero issues at all.

Some of the older Tesla Destination Chargers supported surprisingly high amperage. Given the Lucid does as well I can see a scenario where someone buys a lower certified adapter and it’s the week link in the chain between a high amperage supply and a hungry car.

Maybe people who have had issues we’re using 3rd party adapters that supported less than 80AMPs?
 
Per Tesla Tap, their 40A and 50A adapters have a UL rating for the “handle and cable”, but not the 80A version. Not sure why the are so specific about the handle and cable being rated… I.e. does that mean the actual connection isn’t rated.
Usually the cable and handle can be sourced as a single UL rated item, so they only need to add the tesla adapter part, which they would then have to UL rate the entire assembly.
 
I didn’t make any adjustment to the Tesla tap itself. I have 3 Tesla Wall connectors at home (Gen 2). Only one had this problem, so I filed it down a bit. This one was purchased after the other two. I have a gen 1 wall connector at my vacation home and it didn’t need any adjustment. I also have the cable version of the connector and it has always worked with no adjustments on all Tesla connectors. Ideally, I should have filed down the Tesla tap, but I was too lazy to get out the Dremel tool.
I think @Alex has given everyone the answer if you read his post closely. The problem with the tight fit of the TeslaTap only occurs with the mini version. You can obtain an 80 amp TeslaTap in the original cable version and there are no problems due to a tight fit with the male portion of the destination charger. As an added bonus, the cable version is cheaper.
 
Dammit... I bought the mini
 
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