Lucid Air's Number One Software Issue?

I am considering putting down a deposit on one shortly. And I thought the Tesla forums were filled with software problems!
The Air's software will likely be markedly improved later this year by OTA, borrowing from the advances made for Gravity. Just my opinion after 2.5 years of ownership and paying close attention. It's usable now but could clearly be better.
 
2- As the comments on the AA adapters, I want to use the full large screen. I note that the add on adapters are buggy and only use a part of the small screen. (I am now looking at adapters that have their own 10" screen. Does anyone have experience with them?)
That screen is what AA will use too. It will be the same as CarPlay, if I had to guess.
 
I dont think so. Please show me a picture of music selection or Google or Waze maps on the large screen via carplay.
What? Both Android auto and CarPlay will use the same screen, in the right of the upper binnacle display.

Neither will use the pilot panel, as I understand it.
 
That is what I thought. Parsing your words, when AA finally comes it will use the small screen and not the pilot panel.

I would like my AA, Waze maps and music selection on a larger screen like the pilot panel.
 
Very, very inconsistent pickup of Drive Assist or Adaptive Cruise Control. Once it starts to work, it seems to work fine, But it often takes a number of tries to get it going. (Possibly hardware)
 
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Very, very inconsistent pickup of Drive Assist or Adaptive Cruise Control. Once it starts to work, it seems to work fine, But it often takes a number of tries to get it going. (Possibly hardware)

Hmm, might be hardware. I took mine in for something similar and turned out to be a calibration thing. Covered by warranty:

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I’d call service and at least get it diagnosed, take pictures or videos with time stamps within 30 days of the service date. They can pull the log and see what was happening with the computer.
 
Very, very inconsistent pickup of Drive Assist or Adaptive Cruise Control. Once it starts to work, it seems to work fine, But it often takes a number of tries to get it going. (Possibly hardware)
Sounds like it needs calibration. Haven’t seen any other reports of this due to the latest software; worth having service check the ADAS calibration if it keeps happening.
 
I have surprisingly few issues with the mobile key and unlocking but the audio system is embarrassingly bad every time I drive the car. No audio controls visible, replays the same song, plays one song then stops, won't play any music if the navigation is running (until logo reboot) and on and on.
 
I think most people's frustration is not that the mobile app fails to auto open the door, but that it takes too long to do so. My guess is that the lag comes from the combination of the car first having to wake before it can unlock the doors, so I figure the culprit is either that it now takes longer for the car to wake, or that the car is not recognizing the Bluetooth signal until the phone is much closer to the car.

I had a bit of a revelation this morning, but you'll have to stay with me on this... I left my phone by my rowboat this morning as I went to put away my oars. I was playing music from my phone through my Bluetooth hearing aids at the time, and was surprised to see how far away from the phone I got before the music stopped. Now, contrast that to the far shorter distance that I and my phone typically are from the car before the car loses my Bluetooth signal and locks the doors. It appears that my headphones can maintain contact with my phone from close to twice as far away as the car can. That suggests to me that the culprit, when approaching the car, is how very close you have to get before the car recognizes my phone's Bluetooth signal. Couple that with a somewhat laggy wake time, and I can see why auto open behaves the way it does. This begs the question... Can Lucid improve the car's Bluetooth range to perform at least as well as a couple Costco hearing aids? I guess the bad news is that if increasing the Bluetooth range is a hardware (antenna) issue, current model owners may be SOL, but at least there's a possible fix for new models. Or, perhaps there's a software fix to boost the range, and/or quicken the wake process, or some hardware/software combination. Make sense?
 
I have the same hearing aid experience with Jabras. I think that the locking system in the car uses a different form of Blutooth called BLE, where the LE stands for low energy. It probably has much lower range.
 
I have the same hearing aid experience with Jabras. I think that the locking system in the car uses a different form of Blutooth called BLE, where the LE stands for low energy. It probably has much lower range.
BLE. Interesting! Are you sure the LE stands for 'Low Energy', and not 'Less Elegant'? Or 'Less Efficient'? Or 'Less Expensive'? Maybe 'Lost Enthusiasm'? Don't even get me started on what the 'B' might stand for. :-)
 
I have the same hearing aid experience with Jabras. I think that the locking system in the car uses a different form of Blutooth called BLE, where the LE stands for low energy. It probably has much lower range.
The range of BLE is basically identical to standard Bluetooth. Air’s BLE key range is actually pretty good, but what they (and other BLE key makers) have done is try to use signal strength to determine distance between the car and fob/phone so it doesn’t auto-unlock when you’re too far away. If you think about how many things effect the signal of a radio or TV receiver you can put together why that doesn’t work out so well. If you stick your tongue out the signal might get stronger and it’ll think you’re closer. That sort of thing. This is what UWB is supposed to solve in new key fobs (like the Gravity’s, rumor says). It’s designed to use transmission timing, rather than signal strength, to determine distance. The speed of light doesn’t change that much if you stick your tongue out.
 
The range of BLE is basically identical to standard Bluetooth. Air’s BLE key range is actually pretty good, but what they (and other BLE key makers) have done is try to use signal strength to determine distance between the car and fob/phone so it doesn’t auto-unlock when you’re too far away. If you think about how many things effect the signal of a radio or TV receiver you can put together why that doesn’t work out so well. If you stick your tongue out the signal might get stronger and it’ll think you’re closer. That sort of thing. This is what UWB is supposed to solve in new key fobs (like the Gravity’s, rumor says). It’s designed to use transmission timing, rather than signal strength, to determine distance. The speed of light doesn’t change that much if you stick your tongue out.
    • Below is the defintion of short range BLE.
    • I think they are very sensitive about the power consumption (low Fob life) and the advertising rate (how often the Fob and car try to communicate. There are also various co's making chips for keyfobs. That may acount for the fact that some of us have problems and some don't.
    • Short-Range BLE: 2-5 meters (e.g., for access control).
 
BLE. Interesting! Are you sure the LE stands for 'Low Energy', and not 'Less Elegant'? Or 'Less Efficient'? Or 'Less Expensive'? Maybe 'Lost Enthusiasm'? Don't even get me started on what the 'B' might stand for. :-)
I love your satire! Here is my contribution: Bad Lucid Experience
 
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I just want to restate: the key fob is flawless (well, mine is, but I am curious, (blue).

So I'm curious, what is the range with your key fob if/when you use the button to lock/unlock or open the trunk/frunk?

I ask because If I have auto-unlock turned off (because house/garage issues), and I carry the key fob, it does work reliably when I push in the door handles.

However, when trying to use the button while approaching the car (eg. it's raining or hot and I want the door opened before I get to the car, or I want to unlock the door for my wife or kids, or I want to open the trunk without walking halfway around the car and back) , I literally have to be within 2 feet of the vehicle for the button to work. Any farther and it does nothing.
 
If Lucid wanted to use full octane high energy bluetooth on my car, I'd be happy with the fact that the 100+ KWh pack would only last 200 years. It's a tradeoff I'd consider for doors that worked.
 
If Lucid wanted to use full octane high energy bluetooth on my car, I'd be happy with the fact that the 100+ KWh pack would only last 200 years. It's a tradeoff I'd consider for doors that worked.

I didn't think the worry is the better in the car, it's the battery in the fob that would be impacted when worse than it already is.
 
Here is the inside of my fake leather $7.99 key case showing a larger battery wired into the fob. I expect it to last 1 year. The battery is a CR 2477.
 

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