How Much Range Are You Actually Getting?

[Bunnylebowski]

You can get to 5.8 mi/kWh too.
View attachment 15699
Secret sauce.

This is interesting as I’ve found the Volvo XC40 recharge achieves better efficiency NOT in one-pedal mode but using basically friction brakes to regen. There’s no way on the Lucid to view instantaneous power usage/power recuperation like in some other EVs so I’m not sure if your secret sauce also maximizes efficiency, but it appears to. I’ll have to do some experiments over the next couple weeks. I don’t like using friction brakes as the added value of EVs is less brake wear and thus less brake service, but the cool thing is you can’t turn off the Lucid regen so maybe that plus brakes is the way of the Mandalore…
Here’s what the Kia EV6 can do in iPedal mode with lots of downhill which partially offsets the uphill, but the car sucks at staying in iPedal mode, you have to constantly re-activate it anytime you park or put the car in reverse and sometimes it just quits on you. I’d charged it to 90% and still had 32% left after heavy mountain driving.

 

[TrekTaken]

How? Just how? I have never even come close to 4.0 for a full charge and I drive in smooth mode all the time!

Probably years of driving a Honda Insight, followed by a Prius, and then a Toyota Mirai (which I’ve pushed the EPA range from 312 to 450 miles) have given me a lot of practice for my Lucid… lol

 

[digiboxer]

I've had my AT for about 6 months (late spring--summer--early fall) and 1800 miles. My lifetime average is 3.7 on 20" wheels. I expect a drop-off in Mid-west winter weather, which I hope is offset a little by no A/C use.

I'll be interested in what the figure turns out to be after a full year.

 

[Snafu]

"Break in" usually applies to the batteries... it's well-known in "battery circles" that all solid-chemistry batteries take a number of low to high cycling before they reach their full capacity. Some flooded battery manufacturers also recommend several deep-cycling events to bring the battery to full performance.

So, I have just over 25K miles on my 19" 2022 AGT, and it is in the shop (loaner has 20" wheels) to have the HV battery pack replaced. I will have another 2K miles break-in period once it is returned? How does this impact the warranty? Does anyone know if my warranty is based on the time/range on the car or the battery?

 

[Bobby]

So, I have just over 25K miles on my 19" 2022 AGT, and it is in the shop (loaner has 20" wheels) to have the HV battery pack replaced. I will have another 2K miles break-in period once it is returned? How does this impact the warranty? Does anyone know if my warranty is based on the time/range on the car or the battery?

As far as I know, there is no break-in period for the battery.

 

[DeaneG]

So, I have just over 25K miles on my 19" 2022 AGT, and it is in the shop (loaner has 20" wheels) to have the HV battery pack replaced. I will have another 2K miles break-in period once it is returned? How does this impact the warranty? Does anyone know if my warranty is based on the time/range on the car or the battery?

How do you like driving on the 20" wheels compared to the 19's? I sometimes think about switching.

 

[Snafu]

How do you like driving on the 20" wheels compared to the 19's? I sometimes think about switching.

The car actually seems a bit peppier and much more connected to the road, which I like, and driving it definitely has a different feel to it - pretty sure it's not the gray color instead of my Zenith Red . I actually checked to make sure I was still in "Smooth" after driving it for a bit. I don't really care for the look of the 20-inch tires (not that looks were a major factor in getting 19s). Anyway, buying the AGT was an extravagance for me and my one nod to practicality was getting the 19" tires for extended range and mitigating the cold/winter weather and crappy roads and potholes throughout New England. I'll have fun with this until my baby comes home.

Considering the fact I've put more than 25K miles on the car in just over a year with an average efficiency of 4.2, the 19s were a good choice (for me).

 

[Bunnylebowski]

So, I have just over 25K miles on my 19" 2022 AGT, and it is in the shop (loaner has 20" wheels) to have the HV battery pack replaced. I will have another 2K miles break-in period once it is returned? How does this impact the warranty? Does anyone know if my warranty is based on the time/range on the car or the battery?

This may be the case for some batteries but Lucid has not made mention of this in regards to their battery. I was told the motors take time to break in a little as there’s some internal resistance that can negatively impact range when new, but I’ve had my HV battery replaced and they told me to just drive the car like I always do and no special measures were necessary. I seem to be getting a little worse efficiency than before I got it replaced, however I’ve admittedly been driving more spiritedly lately so that’s probably why.

 

[Tesla2.0]

I started mine at 469 miles for 100% SOC on Day-1. Today after 18 months and 16k miles, that 100% SOC is 456 miles at reading.

I have 21” sticky tires.

 

[njg-agt]

So, I have just over 25K miles on my 19" 2022 AGT, and it is in the shop (loaner has 20" wheels) to have the HV battery pack replaced. I will have another 2K miles break-in period once it is returned? How does this impact the warranty? Does anyone know if my warranty is based on the time/range on the car or the battery?

As I recall the battery talk on YouTube talked about how the break in was a process of the electronics learning about how each stack of cells behaved slightly differently from the other stacks and learning how to compensate to bring all the stacks into synch (hand wave)... thus, I would expect that a new battery pack (or even just one sub-pack) means a new learning process (and indeed I'd speculate that that is a ongoing non-ending process, which would thus compensate for cells aging at different rates and the like).

 

[Plg]

Lucid Pure with 20" wheels AWD - using my history average range per kWh. On road trips, I plug in my last range (miles per kWh) to doublecheck the navigator's estimate after charging.

 

[Coho]

Just finished a 1200 mile trip from Olympia WA to Scottsdale. I was shocked at the reduced efficacy I encountered. My average over 8000miles is 3.9 but pulling out of the Columbia gorge in rainy, 48deg weather with wind I got 2.6 miles/KW. Going through the mountains of ID and UT is was similarly eye opening. Generally drove the speed limit which is mostly about 80 mph.Actually had some range anxiety. But back in AZ with an efficiency of 3.7 so all is good. Rain, wind and speed kill the efficiency.

 

[Lucken]

Just finished a 1200 mile trip from Olympia WA to Scottsdale. I was shocked at the reduced efficacy I encountered. My average over 8000miles is 3.9 but pulling out of the Columbia gorge in rainy, 48deg weather with wind I got 2.6 miles/KW. Going through the mountains of ID and UT is was similarly eye opening. Generally drove the speed limit which is mostly about 80 mph.Actually had some range anxiety. But back in AZ with an efficiency of 3.7 so all is good. Rain, wind and speed kill the efficiency.

To be fair, those factors don’t help mpg efficiency in ICE vehicles either.

 

[Volund]

This is interesting as I’ve found the Volvo XC40 recharge achieves better efficiency NOT in one-pedal mode but using basically friction brakes to regen. There’s no way on the Lucid to view instantaneous power usage/power recuperation like in some other EVs so I’m not sure if your secret sauce also maximizes efficiency, but it appears to. I’ll have to do some experiments over the next couple weeks. I don’t like using friction brakes as the added value of EVs is less brake wear and thus less brake service, but the cool thing is you can’t turn off the Lucid regen so maybe that plus brakes is the way of the Mandalore…
Here’s what the Kia EV6 can do in iPedal mode with lots of downhill which partially offsets the uphill, but the car sucks at staying in iPedal mode, you have to constantly re-activate it anytime you park or put the car in reverse and sometimes it just quits on you. I’d charged it to 90% and still had 32% left after heavy mountain driving.

He has regenerative breaking on high though. The big difference I see is creep mode and rolling enabled.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

He has regenerative breaking on high though. The big difference I see is creep mode and rolling enabled.

I did an efficiency test driving an identical route with identical temperatures at identical times of day with and without Creep and Roll enabled. Without creep and roll enabled at mostly 70mph including a steep efficiency killing on-ramp, on 19" tires that were at 48psi cold, my efficiency was 3.6 mi/kwh. With creep and roll enabled the identical 24 mile round trip route was 3.4 mi/kwh. The only difference that might have effected the results was a brief traffic slowdown which I got some extra regen out of when not in Creep/Roll mode. At least in normal driving Creep/Roll have no effect on efficiency on my car because I don't think the Lucid gains any regen from friction brakes. I think those settings are a red herring for what was actually just some good downhill driving maximizing efficiency in his case.

 

[Wait4Perfection]

What tire pressure do people use for optimal efficiency on 20" OEM tires? All else being equal.

 

[Volund]

I did an efficiency test driving an identical route with identical temperatures at identical times of day with and without Creep and Roll enabled. Without creep and roll enabled at mostly 70mph including a steep efficiency killing on-ramp, on 19" tires that were at 48psi cold, my efficiency was 3.6 mi/kwh. With creep and roll enabled the identical 24 mile round trip route was 3.4 mi/kwh. The only difference that might have effected the results was a brief traffic slowdown which I got some extra regen out of when not in Creep/Roll mode. At least in normal driving Creep/Roll have no effect on efficiency on my car because I don't think the Lucid gains any regen from friction brakes. I think those settings are a red herring for what was actually just some good downhill driving maximizing efficiency in his case.

I think I'd be inclined to agree with you.
My lifetime average is 3.2 and I drive like I stole it and have no aero covers. But I did lower my average speed to around 45-60 mph for 100 miles and I was at 4.5.. So I think honestly speed is the defacto biggest difference maker in efficiency from my testing.

 

[DeaneG]

I'm at 3.5 mi/kWh lifetime average, mostly freeway miles, 19" wheels without aero covers.

 

[Daniel2022AT]

I think I'd be inclined to agree with you.
My lifetime average is 3.2 and I drive like I stole it and have no aero covers. But I did lower my average speed to around 45-60 mph for 100 miles and I was at 4.5.. So I think honestly speed is the defacto biggest difference maker in efficiency from my testing.

I agree as well. Speed is the greatest factor to efficiency. Driving style/acceleration comes next. Topography, wind, ambient temp also are important but secondary.

 

[Worldwide Beagle]

and I drive like I stole it

Funny, that's what a trooper said to me after I got my first 911.