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Can't charge at Home

There’s one in the ChargePoint itself.
I know- I just mean to confirm that the breaker inside the electrical panel is a regular breaker, not a GFCI one. I doubt it’s the latter but if it is that could cause a problem.
 
I know- I just mean to confirm that the breaker inside the electrical panel is a regular breaker, not a GFCI one. I doubt it’s the latter but if it is that could cause a problem.
My ChargePoint is hardwired to a 60amp standard breaker.
 
Hmmm- maybe there is something about the Chargepoint that the Lucid doesn’t like, or vice versa in that case.
I hope not as I’m planning to use my ChargePoint to charge the Lucid since I can schedule with the EVSE.. I’ll use the Nissan mobile to charge the Leaf since I can schedule on the car.
 
Hmmm- maybe there is something about the Chargepoint that the Lucid doesn’t like, or vice versa in that case.
My chargepoint doesn't trip, but mine is plugged in. Also, the breaker themselves have GFCI breakers so check that also
 
You have to tell the ChargePoint what size breaker it's attached to so that it will not draw too much current.
Mine never trips the breaker but does lockup sometimes and I have to reset it.
 
You have to tell the ChargePoint what size breaker it's attached to so that it will not draw too much current.
Mine never trips the breaker but does lockup sometimes and I have to reset it.
Mine does the exact same thing, it doesn’t trip, but locks up until I reset.
 
Mine does the exact same thing, it doesn’t trip, but locks up until I reset.
I have had it lock up and require a reset three times in three years.
 
I am having phase 1 of the Lucid V2H installed this weekend. Hopefully, it will be less than a year, when I can actually get the Lucid bi-directional charger. Not knowing what or how the transfer switch is going to work is holding up the final production. What is going to signal the car to start reversing the power or is this an automatic thing with a battery?
 
An ATS (automatic transfer switch) typically works by having a hydraulic piston that is connected to a relay. When the piston is in one position, your main panel is connected to the grid. In the other position it is connected to a generator feed (or some other supply feed). The relay is activated by some minimum AC voltage, and when external voltage drops low enough to deactivate the relay then the piston will swap positions to physically disconnect the house from outside power. On top of that, the ATS usually has some circuit logic to spin up a generator when "signs of trouble" are seen (voltage fluctuations usually). There is also logic to keep using the generator for a minimum time even after power returns to prevent generator short cycling (which is bad for their motor).

In the absence of a generator to activate, I would expect all you need is an auto-disconnecting sort of ATS. It just needs to cut the house off from the grid if voltage drop is detected, and keep it there for at least a minimum amount of time. What I'm not sure about here is how the car should decide it's time to start reverse-charging. In a traditional generator system there is a communication line from the ATS to the generator to tell it to turn on. With this setup though..? We need to know how this integration is going to work, or we might fail to run a required communication wire between the charger and the ATS.
 
What is phase 1 exactly?

I am having 4/3 wire, size for 100a, installed from circuit panel to a location in the garage. Due to large wire size, which doesn't fit in 50a breaker or outlet easily, having and RV hook up panel temporarily installed.
 
I have had the red light problem for months now. It is definitely a bug somewhere. Rebooting the ChargePoint from the app does NOT reset the light, only shutting the power at the breaker. I am talking with my electrical regularly and it is not the install. 60 amp breaker to a 50 amp box, directly wired. Electrician said the light means the box thinks the power has been disrupted, he tested and all is well. Still working with Lucid and ChargePoint
 
I have had the red light problem for months now. It is definitely a bug somewhere. Rebooting the ChargePoint from the app does NOT reset the light, only shutting the power at the breaker. I am talking with my electrical regularly and it is not the install. 60 amp breaker to a 50 amp box, directly wired. Electrician said the light means the box thinks the power has been disrupted, he tested and all is well. Still working with Lucid and ChargePoint
I have the exact same problem getting my Grand Touring charged with my hard-wired ChargePoint with 60 amp breaker...it seemed to work fine the first time--but now I have to shut down the breaker, then turn it on again EVERY time before it will start charging
 
I have the exact same problem getting my Grand Touring charged with my hard-wired ChargePoint with 60 amp breaker...it seemed to work fine the first time--but now I have to shut down the breaker, then turn it on again EVERY time before it will start charging
I have the same setup and had the same issue for a while. I found that if the DE's doors are unlocked and it's waking up, that I can remove the charging cable without the red-light issue.
 
I have the same setup and had the same issue for a while. I found that if the DE's doors are unlocked and it's waking up, that I can remove the charging cable without the red-light issue.
Is this a chargepoint issue or a Lucid issue? I also have a Chargepoint Flex but never seen this happen.
 
Is this a chargepoint issue or a Lucid issue? I also have a Chargepoint Flex but never seen this happen.
We have an AMG EQS that never has issues, so I think that it's the Lucid. I can usually make the red light come on by trying to remove the charge cable when the DE is locked.
 
We have an AMG EQS that never has issues, so I think that it's the Lucid. I can usually make the red light come on by trying to remove the charge cable when the DE is locked.
Can you replicate that with the EQS?
 
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