Average mi/kwh

Except the EPS charging losses are based on level 2 charging, not DC fast charging. Hence, the charging losses will be different.
ahhhh, that's right-- you are absolutely correct!
 
Except the EPS charging losses are based on level 2 charging, not DC fast charging. Hence, the charging losses will be different.
Well...I have a data point we can use..


14% - 81%
88 kwh

So it should be 79.06 kwh
Charging loss here would be 11.4%, someone correct me if I'm wrong!
 
Honest question: has ANYONE on this forum driven an Air GT or DER on 19” wheels non-stop on a pre-conditioned/just charged battery from 100% to 0% SOC? A lot of the range “disappointment” on here just sounds like making guess-work of your 80% - 20% drive. We have enough users getting above 4 mi/kWh to make these whole “Lucid doesn’t come anywhere close to EPA” claims not accurate.
This is usually the approach I take especially when driving highway stretches. I look at the range miles and look at the trip miles (currently set at "since last charge." I drive an actual mile and see how close the loss of one range mile is. Periodically sampling that a consistant rates of speed tells me how close I'm getting to 1:1. I have said this before and will say it again, when I set the ACC to 75 and keep AC at a comfortable but not crazy level (and assuming the ground is flat), I get pretty close actual mileage to range mileage (90-95%). I also sometimes look at total miles traveled since last charge and compare that to range miles lost. Again, generally with those parameters, it's pretty close to accurate. Start adding in variables and it will change a lot. @GEWC has backed this up. External sources have backed this up. Yet, there continues to be this disbelief that it is possible or you have to be traveling at 30 mph to do it.

If you have a car, and you can't verify this, then definitely have Lucid check it out. If you don't have car, and just don't want to believe it, great. But so many of us have said that range at or really close to EPA is achievable (and not really driving like you're 100 years old), I'm not sure why this gets ignored.
 
I encourage anyone (with a car) who is having problems (perceived or real) -- including poor range -- to post about it so we can collectively try and figure things out. For example, I have had ZERO issues with bluetooth audio and walk-up/away door unlocking, but I would not say, "there is absolutely no problem with Lucid's bluetooth."

I firmly believe that a correctly functioning Air performs as it should relative to EPA. You can question the range of your car and still believe this.

(I love my car)
 
I encourage anyone (with a car) who is having problems (perceived or real) -- including poor range -- to post about it so we can collectively try and figure things out. For example, I have had ZERO issues with bluetooth audio and walk-up/away door unlocking, but I would not say, "there is absolutely no problem with Lucid's bluetooth."

I firmly believe that a correctly functioning Air performs as it should relative to EPA. You can question the range of your car and still believe this.

(I love my car)
Might be better to report it in a separate thread like this then:

Drove - X Miles (Over 100 would be ideal)
% SOC change - Y
Approximate traffic conditions -
Approximate average speed -
Hooligan level (1-10, 1 being GEWC, 10 being Saratogalefty sans wife) -
Environmental conditions:

Outside temp -
Wind -
Rain/snow/sun -
 
Might be better to report it in a separate thread like this then:

Drove - X Miles (Over 100 would be ideal)
% SOC change - Y
Approximate traffic conditions -
Approximate average speed -
Hooligan level (1-10, 1 being GEWC, 10 being Saratogalefty sans wife) -
Environmental conditions:

Outside temp -
Wind -
Rain/snow/sun -
I plan to do exactly that on 1300 mile trip in a couple of weeks. Also will play with ACC vs manual. Will have numbers between chargers if not more often..
 
Might be better to report it in a separate thread like this then:

Drove - X Miles (Over 100 would be ideal)
% SOC change - Y
Approximate traffic conditions -
Approximate average speed -
Hooligan level (1-10, 1 being GEWC, 10 being Saratogalefty sans wife) -
Environmental conditions:

Outside temp -
Wind -
Rain/snow/sun -
Also remember that until the mis-calculation bug is fixed (see me early post confirmed by a tech), everyone's numbers are sorta moot.
 
Here’s two weekend drives. I wasn’t trying to be careful with driving style.

139 miles
97% - 63%: 34% battery = 3.6 mi/kWH, or 410 mi total range
Crowded freeway then wide open road
75 to 80 mph on open road. 70 mph in traffic.
Hooligan level: 5ish. Tried to use ACC.
Temp in the 80s. Sunny. Windy.

153 miles
98% - 58%: 40% battery = 3.4 mi/kWH, or 383 mi total range
Open road
80 mph
ACC most of the time. Rolling hills.
Hooligan level: 3ish. ACC on most of the time.
Temp in the 60s. Blowing wind and rain.
 
Here’s two weekend drives. I wasn’t trying to be careful with driving style.

139 miles
97% - 63%: 34% battery = 3.6 mi/kWH, or 410 mi total range
Crowded freeway then wide open road
75 to 80 mph on open road. 70 mph in traffic.
Hooligan level: 5ish. Tried to use ACC.
Temp in the 80s. Sunny. Windy.

153 miles
98% - 58%: 40% battery = 3.4 mi/kWH, or 383 mi total range
Open road
80 mph
ACC most of the time. Rolling hills.
Hooligan level: 3ish. ACC on most of the time.
Temp in the 60s. Blowing wind and rain.
maybe we need to also track the size of smile
 
@hydbob’s observation in another thread is spot on: Having the range of the Lucid Air means being able to make it to the next charging station if the first one you happen upon is full.

My take on the Lucid’s real world range is that it’s enough to allow you to drive without compromises: You can drive however you like in the Lucid: As fast and as irregular as John Fetterman’s atrial fibrillation even with the AC and seat fans blasting until you‘re channeling Mr. Freeze (Batman & Robin, 1997).

Of course, you can always choose to hyper-mile if you want to but most of the time, you won‘t need to.

Here’s another angle on the real world range thing. I know a guy who drives his Taycan regularly from Boston to Vermont. While the Taycan is a great sports car and has better than stated EPA range, he has to hyper-mile it to get to Vermont if he doesn’t have time to access a charger or if it’s cold, which of course defeats the purpose of having a Taycan. One time, he hit 0% as he was going up his driveway and coasted to the garage with the kids freaking out in the backseat.

This need to hyper-mile won’t happen as frequently with a Lucid. Drive it however you like.
 
@hydbob’s observation in another thread is spot on: Having the range of the Lucid Air means being able to make it to the next charging station if the first one you happen upon is full.

My take on the Lucid’s real world range is that it’s enough to allow you to drive without compromises: You can drive however you like in the Lucid: As fast and as irregular as John Fetterman’s atrial fibrillation even with the AC and seat fans blasting until you‘re channeling Mr. Freeze (Batman & Robin, 1997).

Of course, you can always choose to hyper-mile if you want to but most of the time, you won‘t need to.

Here’s another angle on the real world range thing. I know a guy who drives his Taycan regularly from Boston to Vermont. While the Taycan is a great sports car and has better than stated EPA range, he has to hyper-mile it to get to Vermont if he doesn’t have time to access a charger or if it’s cold, which of course defeats the purpose of having a Taycan. One time, he hit 0% as he was going up his driveway and coasted to the garage with the kids freaking out in the backseat.

This need to hyper-mile won’t happen as frequently with a Lucid. Drive it however you like.
Why did you bring that terrible movie into our lives again!?

And yes, the Air is one of the biggest middle fingers to charging issues, just leave and drive to the next one, but if that one is also stuck...well then you are SOL
 
I encourage anyone (with a car) who is having problems (perceived or real) -- including poor range -- to post about it so
Yeah agreed, it’s important to flag these things. I don’t mean to sound like a Tesla Stan about Lucid. If the car is getting way worse range than it’s good to hear about it. There have just been a few who don’t have the car who have been like “what do you mean the car can’t go 520 miles???” and others who own the car who’s expectations can’t be met based on the way they’re getting their data. But then there’s also the real problem of the mi/kWh being calculated wrong so there are some issues for sure.
 
Because the way I drive is maybe a bit more aggressive than how the EPA tests cars, I don’t expect the Lucid to ever make 500 miles of range with me driving. Air resistance increases exponentIally with speed, so increasing speed from 70 to 80 mph will have a greater impact than from 60 to 70. And that’s okay. I hope for 400 mi of range with the way that I drive.

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Here's a list of commonly used anacronyms (alphabet soup time)

ACC = Adaptive Cruise Control
AC = Air conditioning

Regen = regenerative braking. Simply put, a way to reduce speed and sending energy back to the battery RATHER than using friction brakes to reduce the speed of the car. There are settings that increase/decrease the regen deceleration.

One pedal driving = modulating your speed (both accelerating and decelerating) only using the "gas" pedal. The trick here is understanding that the first 10-20% of "gas" pedal pressing is "braking". After that, it is "acceleration". If you have ever driven the cars at Disneyland or any amusement park, it is the same thing. Take your foot fully off the gas pedal and you start decelerating much more quickly than a "normal" car.

ICE = Internal Combustion Engine
EV = Electric Vehicle
DD = Dream Drive
SA = Studio Advisor (the person at Lucid who took your info down)
DEP, DER, GTP, GT = trim lines (Dream Edition Performance/Range, Grand Touring Performance, Grand Touring)
PPF = Paint Protection Film

There are tons more. Don't be afraid to query about them in threads, we've all been "new" to the alphabet soup at one point.

Good list but one caveat. "DD" in this type of forum has traditionally mean "daily driver". So there could be some confusion on using that acronym.
 
This is usually the approach I take especially when driving highway stretches. I look at the range miles and look at the trip miles (currently set at "since last charge." I drive an actual mile and see how close the loss of one range mile is. Periodically sampling that a consistant rates of speed tells me how close I'm getting to 1:1. I have said this before and will say it again, when I set the ACC to 75 and keep AC at a comfortable but not crazy level (and assuming the ground is flat), I get pretty close actual mileage to range mileage (90-95%). I also sometimes look at total miles traveled since last charge and compare that to range miles lost. Again, generally with those parameters, it's pretty close to accurate. Start adding in variables and it will change a lot. @GEWC has backed this up. External sources have backed this up. Yet, there continues to be this disbelief that it is possible or you have to be traveling at 30 mph to do it.

If you have a car, and you can't verify this, then definitely have Lucid check it out. If you don't have car, and just don't want to believe it, great. But so many of us have said that range at or really close to EPA is achievable (and not really driving like you're 100 years old), I'm not sure why this gets ignored.

I think elevation changes make a huge difference.

Scottsdale is a north/south city with the elevation climbing as one goes northward. I don't have my Lucid yet but in my BMW PHEV I find a huge difference in mileage between going south (where I can meet or exceed my expected mileage despite my spirited driving) and going north (where my electrons seem to disappear rapidly).
 
I think elevation changes make a huge difference.

Scottsdale is a north/south city with the elevation climbing as one goes northward. I don't have my Lucid yet but in my BMW PHEV I find a huge difference in mileage between going south (where I can meet or exceed my expected mileage despite my spirited driving) and going north (where my electrons seem to disappear rapidly).
Yea, a lot of the posts talking about efficiency here talk about "mostly flat" but I think a lot of people would be surprised how much elevation change there actually is during their drives.
 
Yea, a lot of the posts talking about efficiency here talk about "mostly flat" but I think a lot of people would be surprised how much elevation change there actually is during their drives.
Agreed, Even in Flat Land Texas. Most Bridges are elevated and they have plenty to account for land conditions. 400 miles of actual range will disappoint no one but being a EV NOOB, it was a surprise at first.
 
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Say you go to the grocery and buy a 5 lb bag of potatoes. You get home and weigh it: 3.8 lbs.

You log onto the Potato Owners' Forum--the gist of the discussion is that it doesn't matter which potatoes you buy, no one sells 5 lb bags of potatoes that actually weigh 5 lbs.

Conclusion of the posters: "the potatoes taste great, so consider yourself lucky. If you don't like overpaying, don't buy potatoes".

OK.....
Sorry, I'm pretty good at analogies, and this one isn't very good to represent your point.

Try this instead.....
Customer #1 - I'm worried about range with my EV, will I have enough?
Lucid - Up to 520 miles range according to EPA testing results.
Customer #2 - What is the Horsepower of the car?
Lucid - Up to 1,111 HP. (when driving the Dream Edition Performance in Sprint Mode).
Customer #3 - What is the overall "efficiency" of the car (akin to the MPG rating on a ICE car)
Lucid - The cars vary, but the GT with 19" wheels has an efficiency of up to 131 MPGe (26 kwh/100 miles)
Customer #4 - What is the 0-60 time?
Lucid - 0-60 time is as fast as 2.4 seconds.
Customer #5 - OK, so I can accelerate from 0-60 in 2.4 seconds, drive 90 mph on the road and expect to get 520 miles range?
Lucid - No, that's not how that works.

Ok, if you drive "conservatively", you are easy on acceleration, don't tailgate, look ahead on the road and use regen to slow yourself down whenever possible, keep your max speed on the freeway close to the speed limit (65 mph), anticipate stops/slowdowns, etc......you can get 500+ miles on a single charge (100% to 0%).


Things that will lower your range:
Driving into a headwind or crosswind
Driving with a net elevation gain
Driving in rain/snow
Lower ambient temperatures
Any usage of the brake pedal
"Spirited" acceleration
Running anything that involves a heating or cooling element (heater, A/C, etc)
Towing
Any type of additional drag (bike rack, ski rack, etc)
Additional passengers/weight

The EPA estimate for range is just a "snapshot" value and is for comparison only. Your Mileage May Vary. Don't expect to pack the family into the car, drive up to Lake Tahoe for a family ski trip during Xmas break and expect to get 500+ miles range.

I can't wait to get my Touring and try my hand at it. I averaged > 60 mpg with my Prius for the first 140,000 miles I had the car, so I know I can beat the EPA. All the things I listed above about range killers are things I found out in my time "hypermiling" my Prius. Wind and ambient temperature are two variables that you can't control. You can try to select roads that are flatter than others (driving 101 vs 280 or 880 vs 580/680 for those in the Bay Area). You can control your top speed, your following distance, your ability to look ahead and anticipate slow downs and using regen vs brakes to slow your speed. Getting max range is a game and requires practice and skill.

In the end, the Lucid can do ALL things well. You get to choose which things you want to do well, but there is a cost......If you want to accelerate hard, enjoy spirited driving on twisties and get an awesome massage.......you can! Just don't expect to go 500+ miles on the charge.
 
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