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Should be fixed in the next update.
I literally drove on the highway yesterday I had 430 miles of charge. 80 miles cruise control, a/c level one, stuck in 1 lane. My miles per kw did not pass 2.9. I drove 180 miles total my charge shows 149 miles remains. Not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to. This is my first EV.I will also mention that I lost high reservation. It reverted to standard. Not sure when that happened. Was wondering why it was not stopping as it used to on my trip, although I still got 4.1 miles per kw with standard regen.
19” wheels? Are your tire pressures correct? Exterior temperature? Elevation? All of those effect efficiency a lot.I literally drove on the highway yesterday I had 430 miles of charge. 80 miles cruise control, a/c level one, stuck in 1 lane. My miles per kw did not pass 2.9. I drove 180 miles total my charge shows 149 miles remains. Not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to. This is my first EV.
10-15 minutes is new. Everyone reporting here is no more than a minute. Send CS a report!
I was thinking that maybe this is just a normal recycling of the AC compressor to maintain a thermostatic temperature in the cabin space. For those experiencing condition, is the AC actually shutting off (indicator lights), or is this just a normal compressor cycling?Oh, and to stay on topic I’ve also had the AC shut off and turn back on, it’s like it’s recycling itself or something. Usually comes back on in 10 seconds. A few times it’s shut off completely and I’ve had to manually turn it back on. I find the rear seat AC always defaults to off, and will randomly shut off requiring you to turn it back on manually.
That’s possible, but it makes me wonder then why are things usually cured by a reboot? Of course @hmp10 couldn’t troubleshoot the AC cuz his pilot panel went out. Other solutions could be to park and lock the car then try and remote set the climate system from the phone app. I just think if it was a hardware/wiring problem then it would just fail and that would be that. Doesn’t make sense to me that resetting the software would somehow change the electrical layout, although software can dictate open/closed circuits. I’m more suspicious that the underlying software which controls how power is distributed to various modules in the vehicle is bad. Given they did a recall on every car for a wiring harness issue that affected almost no vehicles, I’d think if this was a wiring problem we’d have seen another recall.All of the various issues sound like symptoms of a major electrical layout problem. Random surges or cuts to the power causing various systems to go wonky. And the 12v issue is obviously the most critical since you completely lose the ability to drive. I have to believe all these things are related and just manifesting in different ways. How else could they manage to have problems in basically every subsystem in the vehicle?
Most of the time for me it’s been just cycling and comes back 10 seconds later. A few times though it just shut off completely and the Pilot panel reflected that it was turned off, so I just pressed the power button for the AC on the screen and it came right back and worked fine.I was thinking that maybe this is just a normal recycling of the AC compressor to maintain a thermostatic temperature in the cabin space. For those experiencing condition, is the AC actually shutting off (indicator lights), or is this just a normal compressor cycling?
Not to trivialize this problem, but the problem may be as simple as a random group of poor solder joints on relevant circuit boards in the Wonderbox and other locations. I have repaired a number of circuit boards in an ICE car this way. Maybe Lucid needs to check their circuit boards to at least rule that out as a cause of the problems.All of the various issues sound like symptoms of a major electrical layout problem. Random surges or cuts to the power causing various systems to go wonky. And the 12v issue is obviously the most critical since you completely lose the ability to drive. I have to believe all these things are related and just manifesting in different ways. How else could they manage to have problems in basically every subsystem in the vehicle?
Sounds like a control problem with the compressor cycling. If there is too much time between cycling of the compressor (such as when outside temp is moderate) that the system senses the AC is not needed and shuts down the AC to preserve energy.Most of the time for me it’s been just cycling and comes back 10 seconds later. A few times though it just shut off completely and the Pilot panel reflected that it was turned off, so I just pressed the power button for the AC on the screen and it came right back and worked fine.
Aye, when I say “major” something like poor solder joints would suffice. I mean along the lines of consistent inconsistency in one of their electrical system components. Bunny definitely has a point about a reboot fixing it, which would lend itself back to software, but the randomness of so many different things feels like gremlins to me.Not to trivialize this problem, but the problem may be as simple as a random group of poor solder joints on relevant circuit boards in the Wonderbox and other locations. I have repaired a number of circuit boards in an ICE car this way. Maybe Lucid needs to check their circuit boards to at least rule that out as a cause of the problems.
Mine actually turns off and I just hit the "AC" button again on the screen.Most of the time for me it’s been just cycling and comes back 10 seconds later. A few times though it just shut off completely and the Pilot panel reflected that it was turned off, so I just pressed the power button for the AC on the screen and it came right back and worked fine.
Agreed. If true, then the troubling thing is that these issues seem to have existed for some time; indicating a difficult fix/patch. I fear that a software re-design is needed. If so, I hope that is underway. Of course, that'll bring its own set of potential new issues. Any idea what their pre-release/beta testing is like?I'm gonna step in here with the software engineering view. Reports of the HVAC shutting off periodically for 10 seconds sound to me like a watchdog timer is being missed. Maybe they have some mechanism designed as a failsafe to ensure the HVAC turns off if the car seems to be turned off. Maybe the implement it by periodically telling the HVAC controller "stay alive!". Maybe sometimes they miss it, or the message delivery is delayed. The HVAC turns off, then either stays off or resumes after the next message arrives (depends on the reason a message was missed). For comparison, Tesla seems to do the opposite in my Model S: when I reboot the MCU, the HVAC stays on for about a minute then shuts off. I think the MCU is using a watchdog timer to ensure the HVAC doesn't remain on indefinitely when the car is otherwise offline.
The bit about it sometimes not coming back online is interesting, and might aline with some of the other reported problems. Alexa stops working and won't come back until reboot? Audio stops playing from Tidal and won't come back? Lots of miscellaneous things seeming to halt working and sometimes returning all at once? This sounds to me like a resource deadlock problem. Some of the aspects of it seem like they didn't use a proper threating model to isolate services, or maybe didn't properly protect some resources from multiple concurrent accesses. Incorrect use of threading can explain a ton of the bugs I've seen described with the car.
Software redesign is already in the works and supposedly to be released this year so...stay tuned!Agreed. If true, then the troubling thing is that these issues seem to have existed for some time; indicating a difficult fix/patch. I fear that a software re-design is needed. If so, I hope that is underway. Of course, that'll bring its own set of potential new issues. Any idea what their pre-release/beta testing is like?
I have the 21, tire pressure we’re good. Exterior was surprisingly cool, 70 degrees. Elevation wasn’t going up a mountain but I understand what your saying.19” wheels? Are your tire pressures correct? Exterior temperature? Elevation? All of those effect efficiency a lot.
Yes mine has done that before, where if I don’t mess with the switches it won’t turn back on. And I have timed it, maximum I went was 15 minutes where I did not touch anything and it came back on. Super annoying.Oh, and to stay on topic I’ve also had the AC shut off and turn back on, it’s like it’s recycling itself or something. Usually comes back on in 10 seconds. A few times it’s shut off completely and I’ve had to manually turn it back on. I find the rear seat AC always defaults to off, and will randomly shut off requiring you to turn it back on manually.
That makes absolute sense, that’s what I was thinking as well, although the interior is not at the certain level I have it programed at. I feel like the sensor senses it is so it turns off, but that’s just my thought.Sounds like a control problem with the compressor cycling. If there is too much time between cycling of the compressor (such as when outside temp is moderate) that the system senses the AC is not needed and shuts down the AC to preserve energy.
The back seat air in my 2021 MSLR may or may not default to offOh, and to stay on topic I’ve also had the AC shut off and turn back on, it’s like it’s recycling itself or something. Usually comes back on in 10 seconds. A few times it’s shut off completely and I’ve had to manually turn it back on. I find the rear seat AC always defaults to off, and will randomly shut off requiring you to turn it back on manually.