12V failure and what to do.

[RM-S8]

Maybe we all should do a "dry test run" sort of speak and do everything from A to Z in your garage, not being rushed, not under the stress and not at night (god forbid).
Actually I did this with both of my kids when they got their first cars. I let them change the wheel to the spare one (with all the necessary steps) and then change it back to the original.
And...they thank me a few months after.

 

[segbrk]

Ah but then how will you get it out if the 12V dies? I have a NoCo jumper starter also but realized if I’m locked out of the car it’s not much help.

Oh I don’t mean for the Lucid. I keep it around in case somebody else needs a jump. If my Lucid 12V somehow dies, hopefully I have cell service because I’m letting somebody else deal with that one if at all possible.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Maybe we all should do a "dry test run" sort of speak and do everything from A to Z in your garage, not being rushed, not under the stress and not at night (god forbid).
Actually I did this with both of my kids when they got their first cars. I let them change the wheel to the spare one (with all the necessary steps) and then change it back to the original.
And...they thank me a few months after.

I just now had the same thought. I'm waiting for the nighttime lows to be reliably above 40 F so I can swap-in the summer 21"s. Would be a great time to practice getting to the 12v battery once I have that wheel off.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

I wouldn’t recommend testing the 12v battery jump, having done it. The clips in the right rear wheel well do not come out easily, and may break on removal and to easily access the terminals you need to remove more than the manual says. So a dry run might turn into a service visit.

 

[RM-S8]

I wouldn’t recommend testing the 12v battery jump, having done it. The clips in the right rear wheel well do not come out easily, and may break on removal and to easily access the terminals you need to remove more than the manual says. So a dry run might turn into a service visit.

What, what are you saying???
I do hate virgin experience. No pun indended.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

What, what are you saying???
I do hate virgin experience. No pun indended.

You may have to damage the rear wheel well cover to access the jump terminals, there are some button clips holding it in that secure the cover pretty tightly, and can break easily when pried out, and then after your dry run you’d then have a flappy open rear wheel well cover.

 

[borski]

You may have to damage the rear wheel well cover to access the jump terminals, there are some button clips holding it in that secure the cover pretty tightly, and can break easily when pried out, and then after your dry run you’d then have a flappy open rear wheel well cover.

Those button clips should be standard automotive clips; if you pop out the center, they should just unclip easily.

 

[Bunnylebowski]

Those button clips should be standard automotive clips; if you pop out the center, they should just unclip easily.

Not the ones covering the jumper terminals, the T shaped ones attaching the wheel well cover to the wheel well. As far as I can tell they don’t have anything to push inward to release.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

So in addition to the fasteners holding the aero wedges (I don't know what they look like because all four of the fasteners left the show a long time ago),
I need to keep a set of fasteners for the wheel well liner.
Got it.

or .....

Currently I am using Duck Tape to hold the areo wedges in place.
I guess I can use the Duck Tape to hold the wheel well liner in place as well.
It's the same color as the car!

"If women don't find you handsome, at least they should at least find you handy."