Software version 3.3.2

Old fart and software neophyte that I am, I couldn't even tell if you were joking until I saw the reactions from other posters. :oops:
Haha, I was about to bookmark the post for future reference when I realized it was a joke 🤣
 
I’ve been speaking with the local service techs off and on for the last few weeks, sometimes due to scheduled service appointments (key fob) and sometimes due to something not operating correctly (key fob and minor sunshade blind issue). The following may or may not be helpful, depending on what you’ve already seen in these threads.

Many of you already know some version of this center console issue. The issues with the key cards and fobs seem to stem from the way the center console was installed in the Gravity. Apparently, the cup holders crushed/broke with varying severity one of the cables snaking to the charging/keycard reader pad during assembly, seemingly also impacting things outside of just the charge/reader pad. I would expect that Lucid has fixed this and all the cars produced in the last number of weeks will not have this problem. Everyone who had their Gravity delivered prior to the production fix (assuming it has been fixed) will have their consoles replaced.

The key fob fix that happened in conjunction with 3.3.2 has been hit and miss. My car bricked on me (after the overnight key fob-related firmware visit to the SC) in a supermarket parking lot due to no recognition of the fob or key card. Could get in the car but that’s it. Car would not go into drive. Had to walk home (fortunately less than a mile away) and leave the car in the parking lot overnight. Service techs met me in said parking lot first thing in the morning. They did a bunch of stuff but what seemed to fix everything was the following process: take battery out of fob, hold unlock button down, put battery back in, release button. It’s only been a week since then, but fob and key card have worked flawlessly, other than a momentary ‘key not detected’ warning sometimes when I enter the car.

The blacking out of the screens when first entering the car on occasion and waiting 30-60 seconds for them to come up is intentional and part of the 3.3.2 update, at least as I understand it from what the service techs told me. It is an intentional reboot to clear unnecessary warnings (rear wheel steering, headlights, etc) that had been popping up a lot. This reboot happens to me about once a day and is a little annoying. I assume this is a temporary fix that will be fully resolved at some point.

Hope this helps.
This is the problem we seem to have. Lucid’s response is less than stellar. Thanks for the detailed info.
 
Fob issue crept up again this morning. I have 3.3.2 and fob update. Drive with no issue this morning.

Went out again, and proximity didn’t work. Unlocked car with fob button. Got in car and it said “key not detected” and would not start. So, I used my keycard and it was fine. Got no other warnings on the drive.

Got home, walked away from car and proximity lock worked fine and locked the car. Also worked fine to unlock and lock car with proximity to get something out later. 🤷‍♂️

Really surprised given all the focus on the fob. Only guess is my fob battery is slowly dying again (put a new one in about a week ago). Will see what happens.
 
Fob issue crept up again this morning. I have 3.3.2 and fob update. Drive with no issue this morning.

Went out again, and proximity didn’t work. Unlocked car with fob button. Got in car and it said “key not detected” and would not start. So, I used my keycard and it was fine. Got no other warnings on the drive.

Got home, walked away from car and proximity lock worked fine and locked the car. Also worked fine to unlock and lock car with proximity to get something out later. 🤷‍♂️

Really surprised given all the focus on the fob. Only guess is my fob battery is slowly dying again (put a new one in about a week ago). Will see what happens.
10 days after I got the car, and I encountered this the first time, sadly—on 3.3.2 even. Car wouldn't detect the keyfob or the card this morning; I was able to use the app to connect and unlock the car but since the car didn't detect any hardware it refused to drive.

A silver lining here is that after reading this forum and anticipating that this may happen, I took out and reinserted the battery in the keyfob (without replacing the battery), and that got it working again. Took about 5 min. to get it to drive, which still wasn't great (my kid got hit w/ a late notice at school).

So here's my thinking:
  • It seems like the phone, since 3.3.1, has been more reliable in connecting with the car and waking it up. That bodes well for PaaK to work around all these keyfob issues, or at least make it the exception instead of the norm.
  • That the keyfob works w/ just removing and reinserting the same battery lends credence to the idea that it's more that the keyfob needs a soft reset, and not that it's burning through these batteries in weeks/months (instead of years like every other keyfob, like, ever).
  • That the car doesn't recognize the keycard (which isn't powered at all) makes me think that it comes back to the car waking up to a bad state and not setting itself up for the right authentication handshake. I was able unlock and get into the car w/ my phone, but even powered it wouldn't respond to the keyfob or the keycard until I reset the keyfob.
I'm going to see whether I run into this again, but if so, I might just keep a small flathead screwdriver in the glovebox so I can reset the keyfob on the road.
 
10 days after I got the car, and I encountered this the first time, sadly—on 3.3.2 even. Car wouldn't detect the keyfob or the card this morning; I was able to use the app to connect and unlock the car but since the car didn't detect any hardware it refused to drive.

A silver lining here is that after reading this forum and anticipating that this may happen, I took out and reinserted the battery in the keyfob (without replacing the battery), and that got it working again. Took about 5 min. to get it to drive, which still wasn't great (my kid got hit w/ a late notice at school).

So here's my thinking:
  • It seems like the phone, since 3.3.1, has been more reliable in connecting with the car and waking it up. That bodes well for PaaK to work around all these keyfob issues, or at least make it the exception instead of the norm.
  • That the keyfob works w/ just removing and reinserting the same battery lends credence to the idea that it's more that the keyfob needs a soft reset, and not that it's burning through these batteries in weeks/months (instead of years like every other keyfob, like, ever).
  • That the car doesn't recognize the keycard (which isn't powered at all) makes me think that it comes back to the car waking up to a bad state and not setting itself up for the right authentication handshake. I was able unlock and get into the car w/ my phone, but even powered it wouldn't respond to the keyfob or the keycard until I reset the keyfob.
I'm going to see whether I run into this again, but if so, I might just keep a small flathead screwdriver in the glovebox so I can reset the keyfob on the road.
Once you removed and put battery back in fob, would keycard work? The keycard not working off and on would be really challenging and could point to you having the center console issue.
 
Once you removed and put battery back in fob, would keycard work? The keycard not working off and on would be really challenging and could point to you having the center console issue.
I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it's a center console issue; my DE # is 266 but I know it was delivered to the Millbrae SC early Sept. so it must have been built earlier on. I didn't check the keycard as I needed to get my daughter to school, but afterwards in the garage I did check the keycard (after the keyfob, etc. all work again) and it was able to unlock the car, which tells me we're back in sync.

Given how chaotic the deliveries have been for EOQ, I'm going to wait even if it turns out to be the center console (I also have a small tray issue that needs to be tweaked anyway). I don't want to have to give up the car for weeks while they order a replacement.
 
I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it's a center console issue; my DE # is 266 but I know it was delivered to the Millbrae SC early Sept. so it must have been built earlier on. I didn't check the keycard as I needed to get my daughter to school, but afterwards in the garage I did check the keycard (after the keyfob, etc. all work again) and it was able to unlock the car, which tells me we're back in sync.

Given how chaotic the deliveries have been for EOQ, I'm going to wait even if it turns out to be the center console (I also have a small tray issue that needs to be tweaked anyway). I don't want to have to give up the car for weeks while they order a replacement.
Agree re: timing for SC. Glad it works again. Really curious as that doesn’t seem like the “loose wire” issue but it could be…do you know when your car was built? It’s on the plate in the driver door sill with other car info.

Mine was June. Hoping this morning’s fob issue for me was a hiccup and not indigestion!
 
First, if you see the 100 lb limit you have an old version of the manual - the newer one updates that to 119 lbs. https://lucidmotors.com/knowledge/vehicles/gravity/the-basics/lucid-gravity-essentials
Second, that's talking about a hitch mounted accessory like a bike rack. The towing capacity for a trailer is 6000 lbs.
Ok, I’ll download a newer version. Forgive my ignorance relative to towing but doesn’t a 5000 lb trailer also create a significant down force on the hitch?
 
Agree re: timing for SC. Glad it works again. Really curious as that doesn’t seem like the “loose wire” issue but it could be…do you know when your car was built? It’s on the plate in the driver door sill with other car info.

Mine was June. Hoping this morning’s fob issue for me was a hiccup and not indigestion!
It says 9/25, which I'm guessing is Sept. 2025 (huh, later than I thought, honestly), and not the 9th week of 2025.
 
Ok, I’ll download a newer version. Forgive my ignorance relative to towing but doesn’t a 5000 lb trailer also create a significant down force on the hitch?

That's what's called tongue weight, the amount of weight the trailer exerts on the hitch. The Gravity is rated for 600 lb tongue weight maximum, which is 10% of the total towing capacity.
 
10 days after I got the car, and I encountered this the first time, sadly—on 3.3.2 even. Car wouldn't detect the keyfob or the card this morning; I was able to use the app to connect and unlock the car but since the car didn't detect any hardware it refused to drive.

A silver lining here is that after reading this forum and anticipating that this may happen, I took out and reinserted the battery in the keyfob (without replacing the battery), and that got it working again. Took about 5 min. to get it to drive, which still wasn't great (my kid got hit w/ a late notice at school).

So here's my thinking:
  • It seems like the phone, since 3.3.1, has been more reliable in connecting with the car and waking it up. That bodes well for PaaK to work around all these keyfob issues, or at least make it the exception instead of the norm.
  • That the keyfob works w/ just removing and reinserting the same battery lends credence to the idea that it's more that the keyfob needs a soft reset, and not that it's burning through these batteries in weeks/months (instead of years like every other keyfob, like, ever).
  • That the car doesn't recognize the keycard (which isn't powered at all) makes me think that it comes back to the car waking up to a bad state and not setting itself up for the right authentication handshake. I was able unlock and get into the car w/ my phone, but even powered it wouldn't respond to the keyfob or the keycard until I reset the keyfob.
I'm going to see whether I run into this again, but if so, I might just keep a small flathead screwdriver in the glovebox so I can reset the keyfob on the road.
I, unfortunately, hit this issue yesterday too. Re-inserting the key fob battery worked for me too ( note my keyfob hasn't been updated yet )
 
That's what's called tongue weight, the amount of weight the trailer exerts on the hitch. The Gravity is rated for 600 lb tongue weight maximum, which is 10% of the total towing capacity.
Practically speaking, the 6000 lb towing capacity is a limit that your can't really hit because of the 600 lb tongue weight. Tongue weight really ought to be 10-15% of the trailer weight. Hitting 10% tongue weight at 6000 lbs is likely to require precise loading of the trailer. Without a tongue weight scale, a 6000 lb trailer is very likely to get over the 600 lb tongue weight limit.

@borski recently lent his Gravity to a friend with a 4000 lb trailer, and to me that's the safe max weight for anyone without a tongue scale (15% of 4000 lbs is right at the 600 lb tongue weight limit). Of course, all these weight limits do have a certain amount of safety limit built into them. But you don't have to see too many trailer accidents before you decide that eating into the safety margin isn't a good idea.
 
Practically speaking, the 6000 lb towing capacity is a limit that your can't really hit because of the 600 lb tongue weight. Tongue weight really ought to be 10-15% of the trailer weight. Hitting 10% tongue weight at 6000 lbs is likely to require precise loading of the trailer. Without a tongue weight scale, a 6000 lb trailer is very likely to get over the 600 lb tongue weight limit.

@borski recently lent his Gravity to a friend with a 4000 lb trailer, and to me that's the safe max weight for anyone without a tongue scale (15% of 4000 lbs is right at the 600 lb tongue weight limit). Of course, all these weight limits do have a certain amount of safety limit built into them. But you don't have to see too many trailer accidents before you decide that eating into the safety margin isn't a good idea.
yes to all of this...

For the original question... 600lb is the maximum tongue weight, 119lb the new max accessory weight.
The difference between the two is the turning moment.
The maximum accessory weight tends to have even more safety limit built into them as it is highly dependent on how far back from the vehicle the weight is.
 
I don't want to have to give up the car for weeks while they order a replacement.
You don’t have to. Millbrae can proactively schedule you and order the part ahead of time.
 
I, unfortunately, hit this issue yesterday too. Re-inserting the key fob battery worked for me too ( note my keyfob hasn't been updated yet )
Given this situation, if I had my Gravity and a keyfob, I might be tempted (or become desperate enough) to try this…

Pop open the keyfob and figure out how to solder a couple of wires, bring it out of the fob and rig up a button cell casing with a push button switch to turn the entire keyfob off (disconnect battery) and just switch it on using the push button (connect battery), a few minutes before getting ready to leave…
 
10 days after I got the car, and I encountered this the first time, sadly—on 3.3.2 even. Car wouldn't detect the keyfob or the card this morning; I was able to use the app to connect and unlock the car but since the car didn't detect any hardware it refused to drive.

A silver lining here is that after reading this forum and anticipating that this may happen, I took out and reinserted the battery in the keyfob (without replacing the battery), and that got it working again. Took about 5 min. to get it to drive, which still wasn't great (my kid got hit w/ a late notice at school).

So here's my thinking:
  • It seems like the phone, since 3.3.1, has been more reliable in connecting with the car and waking it up. That bodes well for PaaK to work around all these keyfob issues, or at least make it the exception instead of the norm.
  • That the keyfob works w/ just removing and reinserting the same battery lends credence to the idea that it's more that the keyfob needs a soft reset, and not that it's burning through these batteries in weeks/months (instead of years like every other keyfob, like, ever).
  • That the car doesn't recognize the keycard (which isn't powered at all) makes me think that it comes back to the car waking up to a bad state and not setting itself up for the right authentication handshake. I was able unlock and get into the car w/ my phone, but even powered it wouldn't respond to the keyfob or the keycard until I reset the keyfob.
I'm going to see whether I run into this again, but if so, I might just keep a small flathead screwdriver in the glovebox so I can reset the keyfob on the road.
This exact thing happened to me this morning, 7 days after taking Gravity delivery
 
Two interesting updates:

1) Audio - my center channel has now “dropped” twice while listening to Tidal. Super weird. Seems to reset itself after a good nap. Didn’t happen with 3.2.2 or 3.3.1.

2) Fob - wouldn’t lock the car as I walked away this afternoon. Similar to this morning’s issue. I am carrying a battery and will wait to see what happens. Will first try the take out and put back in technique that’s been suggested. Will also blow on space where battery goes in home of my old NES cartridges!
 
That's what's called tongue weight, the amount of weight the trailer exerts on the hitch. The Gravity is rated for 600 lb tongue weight maximum, which is 10% of the total towing capacity.
I just figured that out after reading the newly downloaded version of the users manual. Thanks for the info!
 
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