Real world range touring 19 inch wheels

Please share some data to support this. Otherwise you are correct, we will disagree.
Unfortunately i think it’s impossible to simulate the exact same city driving conditions, so I don’t have any data, but a model 3 will easily do 4+ miles/kwh around town, but at 70mph, that will drop to 3.5. Lucid will do the inverse.
 
Unfortunately i think it’s impossible to simulate the exact same city driving conditions, so I don’t have any data, but a model 3 will easily do 4+ miles/kwh around town, but at 70mph, that will drop to 3.5. Lucid will do the inverse.
But you specifically called out the model S as being more efficient in city driving than the Air. The model 3 is a much smaller car and that helps it in city driving. Either show us some model S data or quit saying it.
 
2023 AT/19" 25.2K miles with avg of 3.76 mi/kwh - 2/3 highway.
Now with 26 degree temp = 1.76 mi/kwh
Checked battery with annual service when mi/kwh dropped - AOK.
Engine with cold battery warning- will try preheating interior 20' before driving.
My car is outdoors 24/7, when temps are 25F and below I pre-condition the battery for 45-60 minutes in the morning before leaving to warm the battery, I pre-heat the interior about 10 minutes before walking out the door.
 
But you specifically called out the model S as being more efficient in city driving than the Air. The model 3 is a much smaller car and that helps it in city driving. Either show us some model S data or quit saying it.
My lifetime average is 3.3 in a 2016 model S. My lifetime average in my much more modern and supposedly efficient 2023 Lucid is 3.1. I’ll take screenshots for you if you want…

But again, I’m agreeing that the Lucid is way more efficient above 55mph. Take the win man
 
I mean my habits aren’t any different between all the EVs I have driven and all driven the same roads, climate, and traffic yet the Lucid is the only one missing the EPA rating by ~25%. If I’m constantly getting 285 miles of range out of 405 I’m going to be pretty sad.

I was rally curious if anyone has brought this up to the service department and got any fixes.
What are your other EV’s?
 
yup, unfortunately that’s what you’re going to get. The Lucid is not efficient in daily city driving. Teslas…even the big boys Model S or even Model X is far more efficient just putting around town. (People will disagree with me, but it’s true lol). The Lucid motors are tuned for 65-70mph driving. If you take a long road trip and drive slow like that on cruise control you will see 4.0 miles/kw or better!
Not my experience at all. Thus far 700 miles into my ‘25 AGT and the relationship to EPA rating in winter is better than it was in my 2018 Tesla M3P (which was in 18” wheels rather than the OEM 20”’s).

I believe that some of the “issue” folks have with range in the Air has to do with the fact that the Air is soooo fun to push AND soooo smooth that folks drive them a lot harder than they realize.

As I have now said (and sound like a broken record), I am certain I will get EPA or better (4.34 mi/kWh) over the course of a full year. Stay tuned!
 
My lifetime average is 3.3 in a 2016 model S. My lifetime average in my much more modern and supposedly efficient 2023 Lucid is 3.1. I’ll take screenshots for you if you want…

But again, I’m agreeing that the Lucid is way more efficient above 55mph. Take the win man
Lucid is more efficient in city driving and highway driving.
 
My car is outdoors 24/7, when temps are 25F and below I pre-condition the battery for 45-60 minutes in the morning before leaving to warm the battery, I pre-heat the interior about 10 minutes before walking out the door.
How do you precondition that battery? The only way I know is if it's not connected to a charger and you precondition ready for charging. Is that what you're doing ?
 
So, as I have stated in many places in this Forum, when the weather is cold, I routinely preheat my cabin while plugged in for 20-30 minutes before using my 2025 AGT as this has the effect of causing the car to start charging thereby warming the battery. When doing so I routinely experience efficiency in the 3.65 - 3.85 mi/kWH range (averaging 3.75) even when it’s 25 degrees out.

Today, just for kicks, I jumped into the car WITHOUT the preheat (which I almost NEVER do, except for emergencies) and did a 12 mile trip. 6 miles out, parked for an hour then 6 miles back. 25 degrees, windy and some elevation change (roughly 800’ over the initial 6 miles). The trip was an exact retrace on the way back home, so elevation change was a wash)

My “efficiency?” 2.21 mi/kWh. Horrible, AND matches more closely to what others have reported. The moral of the story (which I have known since experimenting with my first 2012 Volt in the 2011-2012 Winter)? Unless you absolutely must, NEVER drive an EV with a cold battery…battery chemistry as it stands today will just make your efficiency awful!

BTW, during the Winter months (anytime temp in the garage is under 50 degrees) I have always preheated my EV’s. Perhaps this is why my 2018 Tesla M3P still had 95% of its original range left after 68,000 miles and 6 years…take care of your battery and it will take care of you!!
 
So, as I have stated in many places in this Forum, when the weather is cold, I routinely preheat my cabin while plugged in for 20-30 minutes before using my 2025 AGT as this has the effect of causing the car to start charging thereby warming the battery. When doing so I routinely experience efficiency in the 3.65 - 3.85 mi/kWH range (averaging 3.75) even when it’s 25 degrees out.

Today, just for kicks, I jumped into the car WITHOUT the preheat (which I almost NEVER do, except for emergencies) and did a 12 mile trip. 6 miles out, parked for an hour then 6 miles back. 25 degrees, windy and some elevation change (roughly 800’ over the initial 6 miles). The trip was an exact retrace on the way back home, so elevation change was a wash)

My “efficiency?” 2.21 mi/kWh. Horrible, AND matches more closely to what others have reported. The moral of the story (which I have known since experimenting with my first 2012 Volt in the 2011-2012 Winter)? Unless you absolutely must, NEVER drive an EV with a cold battery…battery chemistry as it stands today will just make your efficiency awful!

BTW, during the Winter months (anytime temp in the garage is under 50 degrees) I have always preheated my EV’s. Perhaps this is why my 2018 Tesla M3P still had 95% of its original range left after 68,000 miles and 6 years…take care of your battery and it will take care of you!!
I can’t say I’ve noticed my battery being any warmer after heating the inside of my car for 20min. It’s still registered as “blue” with a low energy warning. I doubt the brief amount of power going in to the battery to top it up while it’s heating warms the battery much. It’s probably more to do with the cabin already being warm when you take it off charge that helps the efficiency.
 
I can’t say I’ve noticed my battery being any warmer after heating the inside of my car for 20min. It’s still registered as “blue” with a low energy warning. I doubt the brief amount of power going in to the battery to top it up while it’s heating warms the battery much. It’s probably more to do with the cabin already being warm when you take it off charge that helps the efficiency.
I doubt that. On the 12 mile trip I alluded to yesterday I had the climate off. I have watched on the App as I preheat the interior of my car where it sometimes says "conditioning battery for optimal charging," or something like that, and unquestionably my efficiency is MUCH better irrespective of the climate settings after unplugging the car.
 
I doubt that. On the 12 mile trip I alluded to yesterday I had the climate off. I have watched on the App as I preheat the interior of my car where it sometimes says "conditioning battery for optimal charging," or something like that, and unquestionably my efficiency is MUCH better irrespective of the climate settings after unplugging the car.
so many people are getting overly concerned about the range that they are seeing. this post regarding a short local trip is a perfect example of overthinking things.
when I am driving around locally I give absolutely zero thought about the efficiency of the car, there is no reason to. I live in a very spread out community and drives of 20+ miles to accomplish minor tasks is the norm, a normal day could be over 100 miles of driving and at the end of the day I come home and plug the car in and viola I again have hundreds of miles of range. the only time the car's efficiency becomes something to be concerned about is the few trips that take me beyond the range of the car and when on those trips I do watch my speed and take other steps to maximize the car's range. proper planning on the longer trips eases any sort of range anxieties someone might have. drive your car, enjoy it's abilities and know that 99% of the time most people drive, range and efficiency shouldn't be such a large concern.
 
so many people are getting overly concerned about the range that they are seeing. this post regarding a short local trip is a perfect example of overthinking things.
when I am driving around locally I give absolutely zero thought about the efficiency of the car, there is no reason to. I live in a very spread out community and drives of 20+ miles to accomplish minor tasks is the norm, a normal day could be over 100 miles of driving and at the end of the day I come home and plug the car in and viola I again have hundreds of miles of range. the only time the car's efficiency becomes something to be concerned about is the few trips that take me beyond the range of the car and when on those trips I do watch my speed and take other steps to maximize the car's range. proper planning on the longer trips eases any sort of range anxieties someone might have. drive your car, enjoy it's abilities and know that 99% of the time most people drive, range and efficiency shouldn't be such a large concern.
I only made the post about the 12 mile trip to validate that short trips in cold weather WITHOUT warming the batteries can very well show absurdly low efficiency numbers (as others have been worried about) and, as you correctly point out -- efficiency simply does NOT matter on THE VAST MAJORITY OF trips because your back in the garage and plugged in before you get anywhere near the car's useful range -- even in cold weather.

I am personally NOT worried at all about the range OR efficiency of my AGT and am merely trying to help others understand what is going on and why...
 
My car is outdoors 24/7, when temps are 25F and below I pre-condition the battery for 45-60 minutes in the morning before leaving to warm the battery, I pre-heat the interior about 10 minutes before walking out the door.
Do you pre-condition by unplugging from power and initiating pre-conditioning from the Pilot Panel, as if you were headed for a charging station? ie, sacrificing some SOC to get the battery up to temp? IF so, seems well worth it when just driving locally.

I had been looking for how to pre-condition while plugged into my home charger.... it conditions while charging, but when just occasionally topping off for 5 minutes, that doesn't do much.....seems to take around an hour or so of charging for the message about limited charging due to cold battery to disappear, ie for battery to be fully conditioned.
 
I just did my first long winter cruise into the edge of Maine's western hills from here along the southern coast. It wasn't a bitterly cold winter day; temps hovered right around freezing, sunny, little wind.

It was the first time I'd topped the battery up to 100%, just to see how it did. I went to 95% the night before, then to 100% in the time before leaving (per the above post, it didn't ever get to the point of shutting off the "limited due to cold battery" notice, but it was probably getting close)

And, ta-dah! I was thrilled to get 4.02 mi/kWh on my Touring 19". Only about 25 miles were on the Turnpike, the rest on pretty ideal range/efficiency conditions of open rural roads, going 45-60mph. Still, that felt like a real success! Went 222 miles and arrived home with 37% SOC.

(I had heat on in the car, but modestly: feet heat for me at 65-68, the rest of the cabin set at 62. Steering wheel and seat heat on. Extra warm clothes, but no coat/gloves of course)

Psyched!
 
I just did my first long winter cruise into the edge of Maine's western hills from here along the southern coast. It wasn't a bitterly cold winter day; temps hovered right around freezing, sunny, little wind.

It was the first time I'd topped the battery up to 100%, just to see how it did. I went to 95% the night before, then to 100% in the time before leaving (per the above post, it didn't ever get to the point of shutting off the "limited due to cold battery" notice, but it was probably getting close)

And, ta-dah! I was thrilled to get 4.02 mi/kWh on my Touring 19". Only about 25 miles were on the Turnpike, the rest on pretty ideal range/efficiency conditions of open rural roads, going 45-60mph. Still, that felt like a real success! Went 222 miles and arrived home with 37% SOC.

(I had heat on in the car, but modestly: feet heat for me at 65-68, the rest of the cabin set at 62. Steering wheel and seat heat on. Extra warm clothes, but no coat/gloves of course)

Psyched!

Very impressive, especially since starting at the coast, it can't have been a downhill trip! You must have a Touring with a heat pump, right? Was the 4.02 miles/kWh based on kWh used 'since charging' or per a reset trip computer? I only ask because the math seems a bit off. Assuming a Touring's 92 kWh battery, an ending 37% SOC suggests returning with 34 kWh, or conversely using 58 kWh. Traveling 222 miles using 58 kWh suggests that a reset trip computer would show 3.83 miles/kWh without including any phantom drain during the trip, which (if you had stopped en route) would have taken the kWh used 'since charging' up a bit. Just curious, but either set of figures in cold weather with the steering wheel and seat heater on is quite impressive indeed. Maybe you got a free bonus-sized battery pack!
 
It showed 222 mi, using 55kWh, since last charge (not reset Trip)….

Though I do think I recall at times (other days) seeing slight discrepancies between the pilot panel readings and the dash, by a kWh or two. What’s that about? (Perhaps related to your reset question—actually the discrepancy may have been between a reset Trip figure and the since-charge figure, at a time I expected them to be the same…hmm?)

Anyway, for my “mental calculations” purposes, I use the nice round 90kWh figure for the battery, and any way I cut the numbers it comes to just under 360 miles actual range (driven plus left at same rate), so close enough for rock’n’roll!
 
My “efficiency?” 2.21 mi/kWh. Horrible, AND matches more closely to what others have reported. The moral of the story (which I have known since experimenting with my first 2012 Volt in the 2011-2012 Winter)? Unless you absolutely must, NEVER drive an EV with a cold battery…battery chemistry as it stands today will just make your efficiency awful!

BTW, during the Winter months (anytime temp in the garage is under 50 degrees) I have always preheated my EV’s. Perhaps this is why my 2018 Tesla M3P still had 95% of its original range left after 68,000 miles and 6 years…take care of your battery and it will take care of you!!
Hold on now. Your efficiency without preheating was 2.21 and matches more closely what others have reported? So why didn’t the heat pump still bring your efficiency significantly higher than those without it? My efficiency with no heat pump and no preheating in the kinds of trips you mentioned, even in 25 degree temps, is generally higher than 2.21 with no heat pump. I can tell you my new i5 with heat pump takes a greater % hit in cold weather than my ‘heat pump-less’ Lucid. Obviously other factors could be at play, but this is my direct experience.

As I’ve said, this is why I’d like to see a controlled A/B (same roads, same ambient temperatures, same driving techniques) with 2 similar Lucids with & without a heat pump. It’s the only way we take this out of the subjective realm and into the objective arena. I just seem to recall that other cars where a heat pump was later introduced, did not result in much of an efficiency gain.

Not trying to be contrarian, I’d just like to see the science. :)
 
Hold on now. Your efficiency without preheating was 2.21 and matches more closely what others have reported? So why didn’t the heat pump still bring your efficiency significantly higher than those without it? My efficiency with no heat pump and no preheating in the kinds of trips you mentioned, even in 25 degree temps, is generally higher than 2.21 with no heat pump. I can tell you my new i5 with heat pump takes a greater % hit in cold weather than my ‘heat pump-less’ Lucid. Obviously other factors could be at play, but this is my direct experience.

As I’ve said, this is why I’d like to see a controlled A/B (same roads, same ambient temperatures, same driving techniques) with 2 similar Lucids with & without a heat pump. It’s the only way we take this out of the subjective realm and into the objective arena. I just seem to recall that other cars where a heat pump was later introduced, did not result in much of an efficiency gain.

Not trying to be contrarian, I’d just like to see the science. :)
My point was (and is) that cold batteries do not efficiently deliver power. That is simple chemistry. While the heat pump will draw far less power from the batteries than resistive heat, nothing is going to make a cold battery efficient. THAT was the point. If it is cold out, preheat your car for 30 minutes before driving it and your range / efficiency will be significantly better compared to what your car would deliver if the battery was cold. The '24 and earlier versions of the Air will never be able to be as efficient as the '25's in cold weather because of the heat pump AND numerous other changes Lucid made to battery chemistry, thermal management, etc., BUT a warm battery '24 (or earlier) will still deliver significantly better efficiency than a cold battery '24 (or earlier). We don't need a controlled A/B study to know that. I have done this literally hundreds of times going back to 2011 with five different EV's -- same thing every time -- warm batteries deliver power more efficiently.
 
My point was (and is) that cold batteries do not efficiently deliver power. That is simple chemistry. While the heat pump will draw far less power from the batteries than resistive heat, nothing is going to make a cold battery efficient. THAT was the point. If it is cold out, preheat your car for 30 minutes before driving it and your range / efficiency will be significantly better compared to what your car would deliver if the battery was cold. The '24 and earlier versions of the Air will never be able to be as efficient as the '25's in cold weather because of the heat pump AND numerous other changes Lucid made to battery chemistry, thermal management, etc., BUT a warm battery '24 (or earlier) will still deliver significantly better efficiency than a cold battery '24 (or earlier). We don't need a controlled A/B study to know that. I have done this literally hundreds of times going back to 2011 with five different EV's -- same thing every time -- warm batteries deliver power more efficiently.
Absolutely, no argument there, that’s obvious from any equipment that’s battery driven. All I’m saying is I’d like to isolate the efficiency gain from the heat pump alone. Alone, I don’t think it gives the efficiency increase that some think it does. As I said, this is based on what I recall from previous EVs where a heat pump was later introduced and no other changes were made. OTOH I don’t doubt there is a worthwhile efficiency increase in the 25 Lucids when all the improvements are summed up. Again, I’m just curious about the heat pump’s contribution.

As for pre-heating the cabin while plugged in to gain efficiency, again no argument. I’ve done that with a variety of my previous and current EVs and saw a significant gain in initial efficiency at the beginning of the drive where efficiency is typically at its worst.
 
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