Lucid Home Charger

[Bubbie]

Took delivery of GT November 2, 2022 & need advice on home charging alternatives. I was excited the Lucid Home Charger arrived only to find out it used 100 amp service that no one mentioned when I bought it. Unfortunately, the electrical box is approximately 40’ from driveway, wires being in an almost impossible narrow crawl space under the house & only 3 wires to where my Tesla home charger was located outside.

(1) Since the existing setup will only utilize 40-50% of the Lucid home charger should I buy a Charge Point Flex instead? Seems like such a waste…Lucid charger is unopened in original box.

(2) Should I have Lucid charger installed? Electrician scheduled for this Friday.

At my second location I have another Tesla Home Charger installed inside my garage.

(3)Not sure if using often will compromise the Wunderbox? Any thoughts?

(4) Is installing a NEMA 14-50 with J1772 a safe alternative for charging? Is it safe to leave it plugged in for long periods of time?

I so want to enjoy this car but the problems with Alexa, frozen screens, navigation, audio system continue to be a source of frustration and disappointment.

Thank goodness for this forum & the members as the manual is useless!

 

[Tesla2.0]

My bad, user error :-( I did not connect adapter correctly. It is only 2 miles per hour. I am assuming charging 110V will not cause any battery issue, if anyone knows, I can stop charging and wait for 14 50 plug installed.

Charging 110V is ok, but with BMS fan thermal management, you may even get -1 mile per hours sometimes. Even if BMS fan not running, it may take you up a week to fill up SOC.

 

[BobFM]

Charging 110V is ok, but with BMS fan thermal management, you may even get -1 mile per hours sometimes. Even if BMS fan not running, it may take you up a week to fill up SOC.

Agreed. It can take a while to get to full charge. I get ~4 mi/hr of added range on the 110V while I wait for my electrical upgrade to be completed (hopefully tomorrow!).

 

[First_EV]

Agreed. It can take a while to get to full charge. I get ~4 mi/hr of added range on the 110V while I wait for my electrical upgrade to be completed (hopefully tomorrow!).

My daily driving is < 20 miles, I am good for now but still going to go and install charge point which seems to give better control of charging times and speed of charge.

 

[First_EV]

2 miles per hour! I was hoping it will be the snail pace 4 miles per hour advertised by lucid on a 110V but holy moly 2 miles per hour!!

It is now showing 3 miles/hour. Probably will get to 4 but not sure.

 

[Sandvinsd]

My daily driving is < 20 miles, I am good for now but still going to go and install charge point which seems to give better control of charging times and speed of charge.

Even though you can schedule charging times on the ChargePoint, the schedule doesn’t currently work on the Lucid.

 

[First_EV]

Even though you can schedule charging times on the ChargePoint, the schedule doesn’t currently work on the Lucid.

Thanks, at least charging speed will be quicker, but I am in no hurry. For now, 3 miles/hour will work for me.

 

[Shuasha]

Dumb question... I booked an install through Qmerit and they speced #4 wire for the install. They claim code allows for #4 for residential and #3 for commercial on 100 amp applications. Are they nuts?

 

[Bel]

Dumb question... I booked an install through Qmerit and they speced #4 wire for the install. They claim code allows for #4 for residential and #3 for commercial on 100 amp applications. Are they nuts?

Yes, the awg depends amps rather than name of location. Dont do less than #3. Since the charger will sit and "cook" for hours at end and perhaps weekly and perhaps ambient a ceiling in garage is 80 or 90s, it not overkill to go with #2 for trouble free long life time of cable connections/lugs in either cable end. Labor is about the same just a little more for cable.

 

[Cosmo Cruz]

Dumb question... I booked an install through Qmerit and they speced #4 wire for the install. They claim code allows for #4 for residential and #3 for commercial on 100 amp applications. Are they nuts?

Local company installed 25m of #4 copper to 90amp breaker in garage panel. Didn't check this because passed inspection and pretty well-known business...wish I had watched him work... you have to do your own research for everything. I set DIP switches back to 72 amps. Electrician says he's expert on EV chargers yet never heard of Lucid or an EV charger that draws 80 amps, and almost cried when I started on bi-directional. I specifically asked for 100 amp line / breaker to draw 80 amps.
Never thought I would have to check the work. Thanks to all the electricians here for their posts.

So yea it looks like the electricians are going with the AWG #4 cable as it's easier to work with and they can charge the #3 price. The township inspector signed-off without even looking at the work.

 

[Shuasha]

I told them to use #3, they're "revising the quote". I'm pretty sure it's like 10 cents more per foot of cable. I'm sure the price will go up like it's $2 per foot more.

 

[Bel]

Local company installed 25m of #4 copper to 90amp breaker in garage panel. Didn't check this because passed inspection and pretty well-known business...wish I had watched him work... you have to do your own research for everything. I set DIP switches back to 72 amps. Electrician says he's expert on EV chargers yet never heard of Lucid or an EV charger that draws 80 amps, and almost cried when I started on bi-directional. I specifically asked for 100 amp line / breaker to draw 80 amps.
Never thought I would have to check the work. Thanks to all the electricians here for their posts.

So yea it looks like the electricians are going with the AWG #4 cable as it's easier to work with and they can charge the #3 price. The township inspector signed-off without even looking at the work.

My city inspector actually opened all panels/boxes and checked on all wire guages and breaker sizes. The electrians also had to open up a wall for the conduit and it had to be kept open for the inspector. He even crawled up in the attic. All passed the inspection.

 

[SaaSManKS]

There’s been a lot of discussion around the wifi connection to the unit, but the manual says there is an Ethernet port, has anyone been able to bypass the IP issue by hard lining an Ethernet cable to it?

 

[Shuasha]

There’s been a lot of discussion around the wifi connection to the unit, but the manual says there is an Ethernet port, has anyone been able to bypass the IP issue by hard lining an Ethernet cable to it?

I’ll be doing that in a few weeks (waiting on permits). I’ll update this thread when that happens.

 

[DeaneG]

There’s been a lot of discussion around the wifi connection to the unit, but the manual says there is an Ethernet port, has anyone been able to bypass the IP issue by hard lining an Ethernet cable to it?

Yes, that seemed to work fine for me, at least well enough to see the unit on it's webpage on my lan. Not sure if it worked well enough to update the firmware- it might have but am doubting it. The unit seemed to have some functionality hard-coded at 192.168.1.10, which was already in use by another device on my network.

 

[SaaSManKS]

Yes, that seemed to work fine for me, at least well enough to see the unit on it's webpage on my lan. Not sure if it worked well enough to update the firmware- it might have but am doubting it. The unit seemed to have some functionality hard-coded at 192.168.1.10, which was already in use by another device on my network.

I’m confused, so you’re saying you did a hard line Ethernet cable, but you’re unsure if it did a firmware update?

 

[DeaneG]

I’m confused, so you’re saying you did a hard line Ethernet cable, but you’re unsure if it did a firmware update?

My (possibly flawed) recollection is that my LHCS did not update its firmware while I had the Ethernet cable connected overnight, on either of the two times I tried. After I disconnected the cable and on Customer Service's recommendation, I changed my home lan subnet to 192.168.2.xxx. A short time later I noticed that the LHCS had updated its firmware. Not sure exactly when that happened, before or after my subnet change. It definitely did not happen during several weeks of the LHCS present on my wifi at 192.168.1.xxx.

 

[SaaSManKS]

My (possibly flawed) recollection is that my LHCS did not update its firmware while I had the Ethernet cable connected overnight, on either of the two times I tried. After I disconnected the cable and on Customer Service's recommendation, I changed my home lan subnet to 192.168.2.xxx. A short time later I noticed that the LHCS had updated its firmware. Not sure exactly when that happened, before or after my subnet change. It definitely did not happen during several weeks of the LHCS present on my wifi at 192.168.1.xxx.

Got ya, thanks for clarifying, if I connected to an Ethernet it would be a permanent hardline connection. We have gigabite bandwidth so I have a ton of stuff hardwired for optimum speeds! I have a switch about 25 feet from Where I’m putting the LHCS, so it’ll be easy!

 

[DeaneG]

Got ya, thanks for clarifying, if I connected to an Ethernet it would be a permanent hardline connection. We have gigabite bandwidth so I have a ton of stuff hardwired for optimum speeds! I have a switch about 25 feet from Where I’m putting the LHCS, so it’ll be easy!

Your installer will need to drill a hole in the LHCS' enclosure bottom or rear to pass the ethernet cable through. It's set up to have the RJ45 connector crimped onto the cable after passing the cable through the drilled enclosure and supplied gasket.

The LHCS has a very modest CPU, so no need to have a fast connection. I was going to give up and hardwire mine as well, but after getting it to work on wifi, one less wire to run.

 

[borski]

Your installer will need to drill a hole in the LHCS' enclosure bottom or rear to pass the ethernet cable through. It's set up to have the RJ45 connector crimped onto the cable after passing the cable through the drilled enclosure and supplied gasket.

The LHCS has a very modest CPU, so no need to have a fast connection. I was going to give up and hardwire mine as well, but after getting it to work on wifi, one less wire to run.

It should update firmware fine on Ethernet, though the chip is a 10/100mbit chip, so gigabit won’t negotiate anyway - but you’ll get 100mbit.

The Ethernet is only intended for those that have wifi issues, and I believe recent firmware updates have fixed the IP name spacing issues, but don’t quote me on that.

 

[SaaSManKS]

Does anyone know what else is required for the reverse power house charging feature to work? Are there more parts coming from lucid or just things the electrician will need to put in? I think lucid needs to push an update to enable this feature but not 100% on that…