What's new
By:

Gravity Bugs / Issues

Ron_Burgundy said:
Interesting it wasn’t delivered with 3.3.2…that does take care of some of the errant warnings.

Not surprised to effectively hear they were purposely holding back one of the two GDE fobs until issue was addressed.

The black screen…no idea. If it’s supposed to be a short term “solve” it’s pretty clunky and I can’t imagine that was their intent. Hopefully, we get another patch within two weeks.

Don’t need new features, just need existing features to work.

Enjoy the car!!!
Click to expand...
Mine was delivered yesterday with 3.3.1. Updated it today to .2 when it notified me.
 
johnse said:
The other thing that seemed strange was that invoking TACC or DDPro HA was hit or miss at times.
I've got it set to activate TACC on one press and HA on a double press, and to set the target speed to the current speed. Sometimes that worked flawlessly. Other times I would press multiple times and it would not engage.

I think it might have something to do with the current speed at the time of trying to engage. E.g. in a 75 mph zone, it would engage at 75, but not at 80. But once engaged I could bump it up to 80 with no complaints. On the other hand, in a 65 mph zone, I was able to engage at 76 mph.

I'm also getting used to the timing of clicking on the control pad to increase or decrease the speed:
  • Quick tap: does nothing
  • .5-1 second (approx): increment/decrement by 1mph on release.
  • long press: increment/decrement by 5mph with another 5 very quickly while holding
Any guidance?
Click to expand...

Do you have the speed in settings set to “whatever I set it to” or “speed limit +X or +Y%”? The latter messes me up whenever I try to activate.

As for the pads, I’ve learned where you hit them mass all the difference. If you press the edge, it won’t register. You have to press each actual button, not the raised edge.
 
borski said:
Do you have the speed in settings set to “whatever I set it to” or “speed limit +X or +Y%”? The latter messes me up whenever I try to activate.

As for the pads, I’ve learned where you hit them mass all the difference. If you press the edge, it won’t register. You have to press each actual button, not the raised edge.
Click to expand...
Agreed on where you press the pads making a huge difference. I think they’re capacitive AND require physical pressure/ a push. So just hitting the edge doesn’t work and that’s why.
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Agreed on where you press the pads making a huge difference. I think they’re capacitive AND require physical pressure/ a push. So just hitting the edge doesn’t work and that’s why.
Click to expand...
Different functions; the capacitative functions are for swiping around the right side of the cockpit display. The pressing is a separate set of functions (on the right side, up/down for volume, left/right for prev/next, center for pause/mute/play/etc)
 
borski said:
Different functions; the capacitative functions are for swiping around the right side of the cockpit display. The pressing is a separate set of functions (on the right side, up/down for volume, left/right for prev/next, center for pause/mute/play/etc)
Click to expand...
Understood. But I think if you pressed the “volume up” area with a plastic poker (or something that doesn’t work for a capacitive surface), it wouldn’t register as an “up” push. It just feels like my feel fingerprint has to push the pad for volume, as an example.

Now I am curious. I am going to go try it.
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Understood. But I think if you pressed the “volume up” area with a plastic poker (or something that doesn’t work for a capacitive surface), it wouldn’t register as an “up” push. It just feels like my feel fingerprint has to push the pad for volume, as an example.

Now I am curious. I am going to go try it.
Click to expand...
OH, that's interesting. That, I don't know! I'm in Wisconsin until Tuesday, so please report back :P
 
borski said:
OH, that's interesting. That, I don't know! I'm in Wisconsin until Tuesday, so please report back :P
Click to expand...
Just tried adjusting volume up and down using the eraser of a pencil and it does NOT work even when I push and feel the “click” of the button. Worked immediately with my full fingerprint and pressure.

So, I do think it’s both capacitive and requires the click at the same time - hence the extreme sensitivity as to where and how one presses.

Not the most scientific test, but I believe the results!
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Just tried adjusting volume up and down using the eraser of a pencil and it does NOT work even when I push and feel the “click” of the button. Worked immediately with my full fingerprint and pressure.

So, I do think it’s both capacitive and requires the click at the same time - hence the extreme sensitivity as to where and how one presses.

Not the most scientific test, but I believe the results!
Click to expand...
Interesting! Can you do one more test for me, just to appease my curiosity? In the settings, you can turn off the 'capacitative' wheel. I imagine that only affects the wheel, and not the buttons, but now you've piqued my curiosity!
 
borski said:
Interesting! Can you do one more test for me, just to appease my curiosity? In the settings, you can turn off the 'capacitative' wheel. I imagine that only affects the wheel, and not the buttons, but now you've piqued my curiosity!
Click to expand...
Great idea for a test! Same result though. As you guessed, that just impacts the “wheel” so you can’t swipe on the right to move apps on right cockpit screen. But you still need your actual finger on the pad to push to adjust volume (as an example).

Learn something new everyday! I’ve been meaning to test this for a while.
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Great idea for a test! Same result though. As you guessed, that just impacts the “wheel” so you can’t swipe on the right to move apps on right cockpit screen. But you still need your actual finger on the pad to push to adjust volume (as an example).

Learn something new everyday! I’ve been meaning to test this for a while.
Click to expand...
Thank you for teaching me something!
 
borski said:
Do you have the speed in settings set to “whatever I set it to” or “speed limit +X or +Y%”? The latter messes me up whenever I try to activate.

As for the pads, I’ve learned where you hit them mass all the difference. If you press the edge, it won’t register. You have to press each actual button, not the raised edge.
Click to expand...
Yes. I have the "whatever I set it to".

Clearly I need to drive...get more practice pressing buttons 😁
 
Ron_Burgundy said:
Great idea for a test! Same result though. As you guessed, that just impacts the “wheel” so you can’t swipe on the right to move apps on right cockpit screen. But you still need your actual finger on the pad to push to adjust volume (as an example).

Learn something new everyday! I’ve been meaning to test this for a while.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I noticed this behavior too. The buttons won’t register a press unless your finger is pretty solidly covering most of it. It’s counterintuitive because it clicks but doesn’t work until you “lay” your finger on the button a bit more. Not sure why it needs to sense a change in capacitance to register a button push.
 
Dank said:
still on 3.3.1 (what was delivered with) here and fob is eating batteries like there's no tomorrow.
Click to expand...
At what voltage does the fob start having issues? Some have noticed that just removing and reinstalling the battery resolved issues, so not a battery issue.
 
bicycleguy said:
At what voltage does the fob start having issues? Some have noticed that just removing and reinstalling the battery resolved issues, so not a battery issue.
Click to expand...
It is definitely not a battery issue. Removing and reinserting the battery resets the fob.

It is not 'eating through batteries'
 
This is Apple Maps level coding sloppiness.

IMG_1174.webp
 
The label, whether it is the road, or the label of the difference in the route (20 more minutes, 2% less battery etc) should never cover the route detail. Either move the margin up so the route is displayed above the road info, or move the road label. Same with the reroute detail, do not place it over the route detail of where i am or the destination or teh waypoint.

Apple Maps does this constantly, putting the call out windows above the information you need to see about the route.
 
Jeffgtx said:
The label, whether it is the road, or the label of the difference in the route (20 more minutes, 2% less battery etc) should never cover the route detail. Either move the margin up so the route is displayed above the road info, or move the road label. Same with the reroute detail, do not place it over the route detail of where i am or the destination or teh waypoint.

Apple Maps does this constantly, putting the call out windows above the information you need to see about the route.
Click to expand...
Fair points. I agree that would be better, but it so minor I have literally never noticed it, lol.
 
It’s my nav app pet peeve. Not exclusive to gravity.

For teh fob i am 99% convinced it is the crap battery brand they are using. Hard to read. Starts with an M

Took delivery, fob lasted a day.
Replace M brand battery with energizer.
Fob was perfect for 7 days.
Stopped in a service center looking for accessories and asked if my fob was on the correct firmware.
He came back, “we updated your firmware and put a fresh battery in there for you” and i kid you not my initial reaction was “oh crap, they replaced my perfectly good energizer”, but i convinced myself maybe it was almost dead.
2 days later, fob no longer works.
Open it up.
M brand battery inside.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top