Gravity Bugs / Issues

[borski]

For teh fob i am 99% convinced it is the crap battery brand they are using. Hard to read. Starts with an M

It is not the battery. If you took out the same battery, waited 30 seconds, and put it back in while holding the unlock button, it would work.

Try it. You might be right, and if you are, you'll teach me something!

 

[RandomDesign]

Also check to make sure the battery isn't one with the bitterant coating, I know that was a problem with the CR2032s in the Air (and in every AirTag until they changed where the coating is on the 2032s).

Don't know if that is part of the problem with the Gravity fobs too but better to be safe that it's not interfering.

 

[Nunya]

Could someone taking out the fob battery check the voltage before putting it back in? TY

 

[hmp10]

It is not the battery. If you took out the same battery, waited 30 seconds, and put it back in while holding the unlock button, it would work.

Huh? And which finger are you supposed to use for holding the unlock button? And how does one find out about these things?

 

[WeighingGravity]

Huh? And which finger are you supposed to use for holding the unlock button? And how does one find out about these things?

I had the same question and even posted a joke about it, but my understanding is that this is how you manually reset the fob. People find out because service did it.

 

[borski]

Huh? And which finger are you supposed to use for holding the unlock button? And how does one find out about these things?

Service and customer care have told individual cases about it, and a few folks have posted it here. I imagine that just like the “nuke reset” in the early days, this may get added to the manual at some point soon.

Holding the unlock button may or may not be strictly necessary. Before I told @TribbleTrouble about this, she just removed and put it back in (by instinct, apparently), and it worked fine.

 

[Bdr100]

Service and customer care have told individual cases about it, and a few folks have posted it here. I imagine that just like the “nuke reset” in the early days, this may get added to the manual at some point soon.

Holding the unlock button may or may not be strictly necessary. Before I told @TribbleTrouble about this, she just removed and put it back in (by instinct, apparently), and it worked fine.

Holding down the unlock button is probably just to insure that the fob will drain any residual charge still left after removing the battery. Could probably accomplish same thing by waiting 30-60 seconds before putting battery back in. Kind of like rebooting your modem or other home electronic device when instructions are to unplug, wait 30 seconds and then replug. Have a feeling that a lot of the battery drain reports where people replaced the battery and things worked again were not dead batteries but rather the process of removing and then adding a new battery just rebooted the fob.

 

[borski]

Holding down the unlock button is probably just to insure that the fob will drain any residual charge still left after removing the battery. Could probably accomplish same thing by waiting 30-60 seconds before putting battery back in. Kind of like rebooting your modem or other home electronic device when instructions are to unplug, wait 30 seconds and then replug. Have a feeling that a lot of the battery drain reports where people replaced the battery and things worked again were not dead batteries but rather the process of removing and then adding a new battery just rebooted the fob.

Yup, that’s my assessment too.

 

[hmp10]

Service and customer care have told individual cases about it, and a few folks have posted it here. I imagine that just like the “nuke reset” in the early days, this may get added to the manual at some point soon.

Holding the unlock button may or may not be strictly necessary. Before I told @TribbleTrouble about this, she just removed and put it back in (by instinct, apparently), and it worked fine.

Adding it to the manual would suggest that it will be a permanently recurring necessity in dealing with a Lucid key fob.

I have had electronic key fobs for many years from several brands and never encountered such a need. I truly hope this is something Lucid will strive to correct rather than making it part of the operating ritual of the car.

As I don't have our Gravity fobs to hand right now, I can't be sure. But if they are like most key fobs you will need a small tool (screwdriver or such) to get the fob open. This is not something easily done if not at home -- which brings us back around to always keeping the key card on you, too.

 

[Clyde2575]

I think there may be a bit of a workaround for the black screen issue...I've noticed that if you open the app on your phone a minute or two before you plan to go anywhere, it seems to wake up the car enough to turn on the screens pretty fast once you open the door. Not sure if this just works with my vehicle and is anecdotal. Feel free to try it out and let me know.

I tried this and it isn’t working for me.

 

[allenmhc]

Adding it to the manual would suggest that it will be a permanently recurring necessity in dealing with a Lucid key fob.

I have had electronic key fobs for many years from several brands and never encountered such a need. I truly hope this is something Lucid will strive to correct rather than making it part of the operating ritual of the car.

As I don't have our Gravity fobs to hand right now, I can't be sure. But if they are like most key fobs you will need a small tool (screwdriver or such) to get the fob open. This is not something easily done if not at home -- which brings us back around to always keeping the key card on you, too.

Can confirm that you can't pry it open with your fingernails (cause I tried), so I'm thinking of keeping a screwdriver in the glovebox specifically so I don't get caught locked out when out and about.

 

[WeighingGravity]

If the screwdriver is in the glovebox and you’re locked out, will it really help?

 

[allenmhc]

If the screwdriver is in the glovebox and you’re locked out, will it really help?

Oh, so I've been pretty consistently been able to unlock the car w/ the phone app; it connects and recognizes the car (and vice versa), but once I get in without the keyfob/keycard and no PaaK I can't actually drive it.

 

[HC_79]

Can confirm that you can't pry it open with your fingernails (cause I tried), so I'm thinking of keeping a screwdriver in the glovebox specifically so I don't get caught locked out when out and about.

Penny or quarter works just as well

 

[Bunnylebowski]

I tried this and it isn’t working for me.

Is yours on 3.2.2 or 3.2.1 software?

 

[hmp10]

I received the completed work invoice for our Gravity today. It appears the rear drive unit failure was in the electronics rather than in the mechanicals of the unit. In an odd way, this makes me more comfortable with the car. Given the incredible power-to-weight and power-to-volume ratios of Lucid drive units, I was worried that they might be pushing the envelope a bit too far in the core motor mechanicals itself.

 

[ClearlyLucid]

I received the completed work invoice for our Gravity today. It appears the rear drive unit failure was in the electronics rather than in the mechanicals of the unit. In an odd way, this makes me more comfortable with the car. Given the incredible power-to-weight and power-to-volume ratios of Lucid drive units, I was worried that they might be pushing the envelope a bit too far in the core motor mechanicals itself.

View attachment 33042

What is the warranty on the drive units? And what would the cost be to repair if this happens again several years from now outside of warranty (removal of drive unit from drivetrain/axels, replacement of inverter, etc.)? If you’re tight with the service guys that’s a question worth asking. I find this failure troubling. Even electronics can wear out over time, particularly high voltage power electronics.

 

[hmp10]

What is the warranty on the drive units? And what would the cost be to repair if this happens again several years from now outside of warranty (removal of drive unit from drivetrain/axels, replacement of inverter, etc.)? If you’re tight with the service guys that’s a question worth asking. I find this failure troubling. Even electronics can wear out over time, particularly high voltage power electronics.

The drivetrain and battery pack have an 8-year/100,000-mile warranty. That's sufficient for our purposes, as we've never kept a vehicle to either of those limits.

 

[ClearlyLucid]

The drivetrain and battery pack have an 8-year/100,000-mile warranty. That's sufficient for our purposes, as we've never kept a vehicle to either of those limits.

Yeah, I have to admit that, even though I keep my cars a long time, I don’t see myself keeping this as long as I kept my M5. The battery chemistry and other tech is likely to improve a lot in that time.

 

[Adnillien]

What is the warranty on the drive units? And what would the cost be to repair if this happens again several years from now outside of warranty (removal of drive unit from drivetrain/axels, replacement of inverter, etc.)? If you’re tight with the service guys that’s a question worth asking. I find this failure troubling. Even electronics can wear out over time, particularly high voltage power electronics.

The Silicon Carbide MOSFETS and gate drivers used in the inverter have a bathtub failure curve. In other words, they are likely to fail early or not fail at all. I would not be too worried about this. Lucid does burn-in testing of these parts to eliminate early failures but a very few will slip through and fail early in the field. Most owners will never see this.