Gravity Bugs / Issues

[Ron_Burgundy]

Found a feature I thought was a bug and turned it off. I knew you could turn off the tone to let you know you were speeding.

I didn’t realize there’s another sound that goes off every time the speed limit changes. I found it and immediately shut it off. That was the key source of the random “bings” I was hearing. I can’t imagine a use car for this feature, but glad I found it.

 

[GoDestruction]

Tech Support texted me to re-attempt the 3.2.2 update from inside the car instead of using the mobile app. I had to remind them to re-push it out to me and once they did it updated quickly when launched from inside the car. It appears to have suppressed many of the random warnings I was seeing on the left-hand panel of the main display. Not sure if it addressed anything else yet. I continue to operate my Gravity with the fob (in my pocket) only by suppressing the Auto Lock/Unlock feature and pressing on the door handles to lock/unlock. This continues to be my 100% solution since the fob and key cards don't appear to function with enough consistency to be relied upon. I have not attempted to setup my iPhone with digital key.

Glad to hear this @prodolf! I am in same boat as @Bunnylebowski as I need to have a reliable starting vehicle as I am the kids' Uber most of the time. But I am checking with others on the forum to make sure there is a 100% sure way/workaround to unlock/start/drive for me to feel confident about buying the Gravity. I do hope the 3.2.2 is a "good enough" update for this bug.

 

[hmp10]

Our mobile tech just finished working on the second-row seat rattle in our Gravity. Here's what's going on:

There are four sliding metal covers (each with two telescoping layers) that slide back and forth over the four screw mechanisms when the seats are moved. The covers have a metal tab to which a zip tie is attached to hook the covers to the seats so that the seats will pull the covers back and forth as the seats move.

Here are the sliding metal plates in place:

And here are the plates pushed back, showing the tab through which the zip tie passes to hook the plates to the seat:

There are four such tracks in the second row, all of which are attached with zip ties. However, the mobile tech said the rattles they've been seeing thus far emanate only from the two inboard tracks.

None of our zip ties were broken. The issue seemed to be that they were not tensioned correctly to keep the plates from rattling. He has resolved the issue for now but had to use off-the-shelf zip ties and some plastic packing instead of the felt tape that should be used to keep the metal plates from rubbing against each other. He says the Service Center will install the proper parts when the car goes there on the 25th for the navigation system repair.

The edges of that hole in the tab for the zip ties is not filed smooth. My guess is that over time these zip ties will fail -- and the sooner the more the seats are moved.

 

[hmp10]

By the way, an adult friend was riding in the third row a few days ago -- a place he found surprisingly roomy and comfortable and fairly east to access. But as he was climbing out we heard a loud crack. He said he had put all his weight on one foot in climbing out, and he thought he felt something give way in the floorboard. We peeled the carpet back but could find no sign of any damage. However, I found that the floor air vent panel in the third row was made of a fairly flimsy plastic that I could easily deform by pushing down with my hand. I'm hoping the noise we heard was just a panel that had not been seated properly (something we've seen in a few places on our Gravity) snapping into place and not something under the floorboard that cracked.

 

[Ron_Burgundy]

By the way, an adult friend was riding in the third row a few days ago -- a place he found surprisingly roomy and comfortable and fairly east to access. But as he was climbing out we heard a loud crack. He said he had put all his weight on one foot in climbing out, and he thought he felt something give way in the floorboard. We peeled the carpet back but could find no sign of any damage. However, I found that the floor air vent panel in the third row was made of a fairly flimsy plastic that I could easily deform by pushing down with my hand. I'm hoping the noise we heard was just a panel that had not been seated properly (something we've seen in a few places on our Gravity) snapping into place and not something under the floorboard that cracked.

I noticed those rear vents are exposed and very close to wear folks will step when second row is forward. I had to explicitly ask my kids to watch out for them.

Wondering if I should 3D print a cover for them and fasten to mat so the 3D cover provides some extra protection…

 

[EVCar]

Our mobile tech just finished working on the second-row seat rattle in our Gravity. Here's what's going on:

And here are the plates pushed back, showing the tab through which the zip tie passes to hook the plates to the seat:

Our mobile tech just finished working on the second-row seat rattle in our Gravity. Here's what's going on:

There are four sliding metal covers (each with two telescoping layers) that slide back and forth over the four screw mechanisms when the seats are moved. The covers have a metal tab to which a zip tie is attached to hook the covers to the seats so that the seats will pull the covers back and forth as the seats move.


I

Our mobile tech just finished working on the second-row seat rattle in our Gravity. Here's what's going on:

There are four sliding metal covers (each with two telescoping layers) that slide back and forth over the four screw mechanisms when the seats are moved. The covers have a metal tab to which a zip tie is attached to hook the covers to the seats so that the seats will pull the covers back and forth as the seats move.

I'd have never guessed that zip ties and velcro are used in the Air and Gravity.
I usually keep my cars longer than average and would prefer something less susceptible to heat, humidity and friction dislodgement.
The UV-resistant, industry grade zip ties I use for some of my plants self destruct after 1 or 2 summers.

 

[prodolf]

Glad to hear this @prodolf! I am in same boat as @Bunnylebowski as I need to have a reliable starting vehicle as I am the kids' Uber most of the time. But I am checking with others on the forum to make sure there is a 100% sure way/workaround to unlock/start/drive for me to feel confident about buying the Gravity. I do hope the 3.2.2 is a "good enough" update for this bug.

I have read that 3.2.2 was not specifically released to fix the access issues. However, my experience is that the process forum member Zorro outlined for using the fob-in-pocket protocol has been a 100% solution. The car sometimes take a few seconds after you sit down and put your foot on the brake to light up and recognize your profile, so if you plan on robbing banks I would definitely consider another option for your get-away car.

 

[Ron_Burgundy]

I have read that 3.2.2 was not specifically released to fix the access issues. However, my experience is that the process forum member Zorro outlined for using the fob-in-pocket protocol has been a 100% solution. The car sometimes take a few seconds after you sit down and put your foot on the brake to light up and recognize your profile, so if you plan on robbing banks I would definitely consider another option for your get-away car.

I feel like whole 3.2.2 wasn’t a total fix, just the act of updating likely shook some of the bugs out…

I have a 2022 Model X that suddenly stopped refusing to connect to our home WiFi. Soft reset didn’t work. Installed update and WiFi works even though it wasn’t acknowledged in the release notes.

These cars are basically just big computers, so we can expect random stuff , unfortunately. Which is also why they’re required to somehow keep the drivetrain software/hardware separate from the other stuff. I can still reset my Model X at 50mph on the highway.

 

[hmp10]

Monday will be seven weeks since we received our Gravity, and I'm afraid there's not much progress to report in getting issues addressed.

A mobile tech was here today for the second time, this time to try to fix the second-row noise issue. We took the car for two short test drives while he was here, and the noise was gone. Then on the way to dinner tonight the noise returned after about 10 miles of driving and has remained present. Just as with the first mobile tech visit there are no lasting results.

At least we had been among the owners who were not having problems with the key fob . . . until tonight. Every time we got in the car, even after a long dinner in which the car should have reset, we got the "key fob not detected message", and shaking the fob did nothing. We had to use the key card all three times we got in the car.

The next repair attempts will be made when the car goes back to a Service Center on August 25 to address the frozen navigation system, the defective HUD screen (if the part is available by then), and the second-row noise. I'm not expecting any of the array of software issues to be resolved on that visit, as they lie outside the purview of a Service Center.

This is not what I hoped for but, after getting an early Air Dream Edition, it is what I feared if we got one of the earlier deliveries. If anything, the Gravity rollout has been plagued by more problems than the Air rollout on the heels of the COVID pandemic almost four years ago.

I've still got hope that the Gravity will turn out to be as good a car as the Air did once all the gremlins were vanquished. But patience is getting in shorter supply, and I'm detecting signs that Lucid service is getting more overwhelmed than it was during the Air rollout.

 

[Ron_Burgundy]

I’d been bug free with fob until tonight. When I was leaving a sporting event with four other people at 11:00pm…

We get back to the Gravity, doors open, screens come on for a second, then I sit down and get blank screens and no reaction from the gear stalk. A/C and backlights for soft keys were on.

Thanks to this forum, I knew what to do and tried the key card, but that didn’t wake it.

I walked away, came back, and realized it hadn’t locked or slept because folks were in it (I guess). So, embarrassingly, I asked everyone to get out. Then we closed the doors, I walked away, locked it with the fob, waited a minute and then I came back and it worked. The screens came on but were clearly resetting in some way as they didn’t all come up as usual, but they did after a bit.

I was calling Lucid for help when it actually came back, so didn’t need any assistance. To their credit, they picked up instantly and still created a ticket/note just to be sure it was logged.

I had a nagging feeling this would happen only when I had people with me and was somewhat far from home. But, it ended up waking and all is good.

Frustrated? Yes. Embarrassed? A bit. But then I drove it home and it’s SO GOOD to drive. So amazing. I will take all the bugs, but stranding me somewhere is what freaks me out. That said, because of the forum, I knew it wouldn’t strand me, but it’s still crappy.

 

[hmp10]

I had quite a few similar incidents with our early Air. The most embarrassing one was when I dropped some friends off at a busy airport curb. I got out of the car to get their luggage out of the trunk, and the car locked itself and would not respond to the fob. I spent several minutes trying to get back in the car in front of a crowd of onlookers while an officer told me to hurry up because I was blocking the unloading zone.

I had assumed those days were behind me, but I didn't reckon on Lucid's persistence.

 

[DrZorro]

So, I had my 2nd mobile service visit today to fix some of the initial problems with the car (noted at delivery). The parts finally arrived last week so the repairs could now be done. The service guys were great. The overall situation was enlightening for myself and the service guys.

1st repair: 2 of the 4 original wheel well trim pieces weren't flush or were slightly warped. Those popped right off, new ones popped right one and both problems were solved. Easy fix.

2nd repair: I had 2 scratches in the plastic bin area of the inside portion of the driver's side door that happened sometime at the factory/during delivery. Whole entire inner door panel swapped out and looks great. Easy fix.

3rd repair: The sliding glass mechanism on my center console was faulty at delivery. To fix this, the entire center console had to be replaced. While I wouldn't call it an easy fix, it was done fairly quickly and smoothly with a brand new center console that looks great---more on this below.

4th repair: The car was delivered with a small defect/scratch in the 2 of the "LUCID" letters in the front light blade. The light blade was also noted to be bowing upward at the center and wasn't sitting flush with the hood. So, the old light blade was removed. The piece is attached with a few clips and LOTS of double sided tape. All was going smoothly until it was noted the the new light blade is now made with plastic tabs at the end that the original light blade does NOT have--and the receiving piece it mates up with has no inserts for these tabs. Turns out my car is made with "Revision 3" parts and the new one sent for the replacement was "Revision 4". So, the awesome mobile techs got creative and snapped off the tabs and used a Dremel tool to smooth things out and basically jerry-rig it to *mostly* fit. Not totally ideal and despite the finished product resulting in the piece not sitting completely flush at the very tips (though only noticeable if one was to point it out) it wasn't deemed satisfactory by the techs but rather a temporary solution.... So my car will end up needing a whole new front light assembly (unless they can get an old Revision 3 part). That will unfortunately involve a trip to a service center since the sensors will have to be recalibrated after that part is swapped out.

And now for the fun part! I went to drive my car back into the garage and now the key fob will no longer start the car (doors open fine, but no key detected for putting the car into gear). This problem did not exist prior to the repairs (except on 2 separate 1-off instances over past 7 weeks which I've written about before---and that problem seemed to self correct fairly quickly). I told the service guys to do the "customer service reset" that I've seen talked about by other members--This was tried and failed to fix the problem. It was only then that I inquired if there's any way that the center console swap could have caused this gremlin to appear. It turns out (after a brief call by my service guy to someone at Lucid) that the new console actually does have a key antenna in it--and unlike the antenna in the Air console, this one isn't a "dummy antenna" and actually requires the car's software to be updated/synced to the new antenna inside--apparently this new console revision is made by a different manufacturer than the first one as well. So, after about 20min of phone calls/software updates, my key is working normally again. The techs were unfortunately caught off guard by this as nowhere in their manual or training were they told about this additional step.

So, at the end of the day, it was a mostly successful mobile service visit though my car will still need to have the light blade issue solved with a final fix. Luckily it's not a functional issue and an imperceptible cosmetic issue that one would have to point out to even notice...but kudos to Lucid for promising to get it fixed correctly. And kudos to my service techs for navigating all the curveballs that are thrown at them.

****On a side note about the key issues that some are having. It now seems clear that there are multiple antennas involved in the car with one being in the B pillar (for unlocking) and a second in the console (for starting the car). I have to wonder if anyone having the issue with just they key not starting the car may need the specific software resync that they did on my car which seemed to fix the issue. I also talked with the techs and reflected on the two times where my key failed to start the car previously and recalled they had one thing in common: It happened after charging the car AND using the a physical button on the remote to unlock the car (to be able to unplug the charger)...which is not in my normal pattern of walking up to the driver's side door and pushing in the handle without using the key fob button. I'm not sure if using the button on the fob rather than just having it in my pocket somehow got things out of sync? Anyone else noticed this pattern?****

 

[9point81]

****On a side note about the key issues that some are having. It now seems clear that there are multiple antennas involved in the car with one being in the B pillar (for unlocking) and a second in the console (for starting the car). I have to wonder if anyone having the issue with just they key not starting the car may need the specific software resync that they did on my car which seemed to fix the issue. I also talked with the techs and reflected on the two times where my key failed to start the car previously and recalled they had one thing in common: It happened after charging the car AND using the a physical button on the remote to unlock the car (to be able to unplug the charger)...which is not in my normal pattern of walking up to the driver's side door and pushing in the handle without using the key fob button. I'm not sure if using the button on the fob rather than just having it in my pocket somehow got things out of sync? Anyone else noticed this pattern?****

What I've noticed is that if I don't get far enough away from the car with the fob in a couple of minutes time, it seems to confuse the system and the key fob will not start the car. The card key in these instances has worked every time and when I get out and walk away for a few minutes or more, everything is working fine again. I've noticed this if I'm going in a store and I'm still very close to the car where it is parked or if I'm home and stop for a few minutes and never leave the immediate vicinity of the car, it'll do this sometimes.

 

[hmp10]

What I've noticed is that if I don't get far enough away from the car with the fob in a couple of minutes time, it seems to confuse the system and the key fob will not start the car. The card key in these instances has worked every time and when I get out and walk away for a few minutes or more, everything is working fine again. I've noticed this if I'm going in a store and I'm still very close to the car where it is parked or if I'm home and stop for a few minutes and never leave the immediate vicinity of the car, it'll do this sometimes.

It's very simple. You have to stand on your right foot while kicking back with your left as you pat the top of your head and spin twice before moving the fob from your left pocket to your right. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to start the car with the fob almost every time.

 

[9point81]

It's very simple. You have to stand on your right foot while kicking back with your left as you pat the top of your head and spin twice before moving the fob from your left pocket to your right. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to start the car with the fob almost every time.

We are going to make our own viral hit called the Lucid Dance! Millions of views! Free advertising for Lucid! Win win sir!

 

[NoseyReporter]

For the first time this week, I activated the frunk from outside of the car. Can't believe it took 3 weeks for me to do this.

Jesus that sticky latch is scary. It doesn't let go of the hood, and the entire hood flexes as the struts try to open the frunk. Three weeks ago when I realized I had to open the frunk twice every time, I thought it was just a minor inconvenience. After what I saw from the outside, I think I want it fixed asap.

 

[hmp10]

For the first time this week, I activated the frunk from outside of the car. Can't believe it took 3 weeks for me to do this.

Jesus that sticky latch is scary. It doesn't let go of the hood, and the entire hood flexes as the struts try to open the frunk. Three weeks ago when I realized I had to open the frunk twice every time, I thought it was just a minor inconvenience. After what I saw from the outside, I think I want it fixed asap.

This is exactly how our Air frunk lid behaved before we had to have it repaired (more than once). In one incident, it finally refused both to open all the way or to relock, putting the car into limp mode which left me stranded at a carwash and required having it trucked to a service center.

I would strongly recommend not using your Gravity frunk until service gets involved.

 

[Ron_Burgundy]

For the first time this week, I activated the frunk from outside of the car. Can't believe it took 3 weeks for me to do this.

Jesus that sticky latch is scary. It doesn't let go of the hood, and the entire hood flexes as the struts try to open the frunk. Three weeks ago when I realized I had to open the frunk twice every time, I thought it was just a minor inconvenience. After what I saw from the outside, I think I want it fixed asap.

It’s actually a very quick fix with Lucid’s favorite service tool - the Dremel. The whole in the trim around the latch is too small (sometimes). That’s what it was for when I had the issue of frunk popping but not opening, then opening the second time.

 

[msaunders9430]

I had my first and prayerfully only encounter with the "Key Not Detected" experience yesterday.
After being distracted for most of my workout by looking out the window of the gym at my GGT, I finished my workout.
Car unlocked fine, foot on brake, and there's the message. Not the first trip to the gym.

Locked the door.
Walked back in gym, waited about 10 minutes for her to take a nap.
Returned to open, foot on brake, no message.
Drove away.

No issues for rest of yesterday or today.

Mobile tech is coming Thursday after she gets her three-day (M-W) ppf/ceramic work.
According to the service center manager, my GGT will be the first they have worked on, so I've been sending him the possible solutions I've read online for the specific "key card not enabling car to go into gear" issue; sentry node needs replacing, entire console replacement, reset Access Control Module and repush 3.2.2. Wishful thinking, he will request parts from Lucid parts dept. and have mobile tech arrive with them; kinda doubting that.

The experience did not overshadow the joy of the view from my gym window.
I've got to get over this.
I'm having trouble remembering which machine to go to next or how many reps I've done.

 

[hmp10]

The experience did not overshadow the joy of the view from my gym window.
I've got to get over this.
I'm having trouble remembering which machine to go to next or how many reps I've done.

View attachment 31832

Unfortunately, the Gravity does not photograph all that well. Our first encounter with one in the flesh was almost jarring.

The car is both sleek and muscular at the same time. The gentle sheet metal undulations down the sides play with light in ways that still photographs do not capture and create visual interest far more effectively than the creases and bulges you see on many cars. Everything about the car somehow manages to convey mass without conveying bulk or raw size.

As with so much of Derek Jenkins' work, it's a master class of automotive design.

The Air has aged very well these four years and still telegraphs the futurism that was its opening move on the design chessboard back in 2016. But I do get why reviewers often say the Gravity is the better looking of the two.